Whos a fan of Airsoft?

Ive never been in one and im thinking of getting into the game. but i dont know where to find the right gear. does anyone know where to find the rite stuff at the right price? and of course are there any out there who are a fan of the sport and if you are, are you like me and want to get into it, or are a vet?

Evike if you feel like waiting for a month for your package, or airsoftGI which is better.

Still have my m16/m4 hybrid.

I keep thinking about getting a new toy, but I’m spending all of my moneys on actual rifles.

Awesome on ther real rifles. curiously, whats your favoriet Aesthetic pistol design?

Airsoftgi, best website to order from.
G&G Combat Machines are the best budget guns on the market, but you need to purchase a battery separate, plus a smart charger (generally a good idea with any gun)
If you’re looking to do upgrades, the CYMA AK-47 is the best out there. (Any model will do) Parts are easily found and readily available. I had a friend who ran an upgraded CYMA AK and it was accurate nigh on 50-60 yards, which is huge in airsoft.
Pistols are not really necessary unless you’re playing primarily CQC, otherwise save your money for more midcaps.
Speaking of, mid capacity magazines are the best. Yeah, it means you’ve gotta carry more, but it’s better than sitting there winding up every five seconds. You’ll get a continuous feed up to the last like 3 bb’s. Also, ALWAYS GO SEMI-AUTO! Whenever you run full auto you waste precious rounds and time. Take a moment for a well placed shot and 7 times out of ten you’ll hit it better than you would full auto.
Stay away from .12 and .20 gram bb’s. Especially those made by Crosman. They’ll consistently break in the gun, be highly inaccurate, and overall just suck. Don’t let their cheap price fool you. .25 gram bb’s are always the best choice, especially for guns shooting 325-500fps.
Oh, and just so you know, it’s not always about the heaviest hitting or the fastest shooting gun. People who run high velocity/ROF guns have to spend a lot more time and money to get them to work, not only that, but you’ve got no reason to have a gun that shoots any faster than 450fps.

As far as gear goes, don’t try to be tacti-cool. Be practical. OD green uniforms and a lightweight tac vest for your midcaps should be just fine. You should also only carry what you need. Midcaps, Flashlight, and an extra battery are all you need to be practical on the battlefield.
Speaking of Tacti-cool, don’t deck out your gun with 12 different scopes and attachments. They’re not necessary. Get a nice red-dot, a simple fore-grip, and maybe a flashlight. You don’t need all kinds of bells and whistles. Not to mention that takes off the weight.
Weight is also a big factor, you don’t need to get an “all metal gun”, because most of the time, you’ll wind up dead tired from carrying that S.A.W you just had to have. If you can, go for a plastic gun, a fiber woven, or some other light weight material. It’ll increase your play time by double.

Well, that’s about all the help I can give you for now, feel free to ask any more questions.

Well another thing to factor in is to know your limits. If you’re going to run and all metal 240Bravo or SAW, be fit and be strong. Now, GNZ is a weakling so he couldn’t handle anything more than an ABS pp-2000 :D.

Also look the part. Either be like GNZ and hate Milsim, and just wear whatever, but if you are going to wear camouflage do NOT half ass it. You will look as much as an idiot as wearing a hawaiian shirt >_>.

Best pistol design is the H&K Mk23. Every day.

for pistol: M1911 pattern style pistol (real or airsoft), the only pistol design that holds #1 on my list of pistols. second place belongs to the S&W 1870 schofeild Breaktop revolver.

as for the suggestions. thanks for the tips ill look into them. was gonna go for a G36 pattern but after hearin about the AK (which pattern i like) i was hooked. thanks again and ill look into them.

The biggest thing to remember in Airsoft is “You get what you pay for”. Like GNZ said, bb’s will be your most frequent expense so this is something you don’t wanna go cheap on. You CANNOT CANNOT CANNOT get decent bb’s at Dicks or Walmart. Evike and AirsoftGI are the two places I order from most (with the exception of the store located near me). Midcaps are your friend! Yes, you have to carry more, but it’s better than being a walking maraca with nothing but hicaps. And as far as your gear goes, you don’t have to look a certain part (we have guys here in NC that go all out with their SEAL team loadouts or whatever is currently popular). You need to make it work for YOU! I personally run a P90 and I love it! Sure it’s not the most common gun on the field but it’s quiet and it can really send the bb’s down range. Here’s a picture of my current loadout (tan) from a recent game.

I’ve played for a few years now, Currently have a TM M4A1 and a G&P Zombie Killer. MN has an amazing organization, we also play a lot with Wisconsin players. My favorite game is the Breedland series at Apocalypse Paintball in WI. Breedland V was this year. 250 players, 2 teams and full uniform requirements. Everyone was required to have comms, my side dominated with over 30,000 points to just 1,500 for the enemy. We won because we prepared months in advanced, had a proper command chain, new what everyones duty was and acted as a team.
Though I disagree with both Evike and AirsoftGI being good places to order from, they misinform players on way too many products. Though I am lucky to have friend’s who own fields, repair shops and basically small stores and also another one who is able to directly order from asia for extremely cheap prices and he is capable of getting me just about anything I need.

Just a few pics, the ones in woodland camo are my Breedland Uniform. Riot set-up for a “juggernaut” game… I got shot ALOT. And the one of me laying down is a game at an old missile base… yeah its the bathroom floor.

Whoa whoa whoa whoa!!!
I was going to start an Airsoft Topic.
Oh well.
I am HUGE into Airsoft!
I like guns so much, but the real steel is really expensive.

There are great places online to get Airsoft Guns.
Evike.com and Airsoft GI are good places however they can be pricey.
also getting a no BS answer from an airsoft retailer can be wishy washy. They want you to get a good gun, but at the same time they are trying to “sell” you a used car type of deal.
Up-saleing, know what I mean?
and you alos got to know how you play, I’ve seen too many Call Of Duty fanboys run out on the field with a sniper rifle and get mowed down. then their next thought is ammo capacity, then they go out and buy a Light machine gun or an M16 or an AK47 with a drum mag only to get out in the feild and realize they cant wield a 12 pound gun.

your best bet to start out with is a reliable brand Assault rifle carbine, or an SMG.

I went through several “walmart brand” guns and was able to hold my own from time to time. but they always broke.
If you got a spring powered gun make sure you get a UTG brand
they make fantastic shotguns and sniper rifles but rate of fire is Severely handicapped compared to an AEG (airsoft Electric Gun)

now AEG’s can be a bit sketchy… too many chinese knock off brands you need to avoid. (Double Eagle, Well, Galaxy and Both Elephant)
AVOID THESE BRANDS! they lure you in with their cheap prices and false advertising.
CYMA makes a good AK-47 but that’s about it. I havent had much luck in the past with them.
JG is a pretty decent brand, but they are not rugged. If you abuse them and neglect to take care of them THEY WILL BREAK ON YOU! you cant treat these like a real gun.
Classic Army is an overpriced fiend. good stuff but ear and tear will leave you in tears.
Echo 1 is a good brand but the same Issues with Classic Army.
Tokyo Mauri has a GREAT selection of weapons but have a tendency to break minor yet Critical components. AND all their parts need to be imported overseas and it can become a very SLOW and Painful process…

KWA is the Brand I recommend to anyone! they haven’t made too many models but they are really reliable and are Entry level right out of the box!!! I haven’t needed to upgrade my gearbox and have had no internal malfunctions to this day! they are rugged Full metal and hi-density polymer plastics.
EXCEPT!!! except for their Pistols they are crap. but they make one HELL of a rifle!

the Gun I suggest as a good starter is the M4A1 (full body)
this was my starting gun when I seriously took my game up in airsoft.
Be advised the M4A1 carbine or CQB model has low FPS (150-275 [.20g]) and is meant for close quarters combat.
300+ is the velocity you want. but anything above 400+ fps is unnecessary (unless youre sniping)
they also sell a good G36c which is another great gun, light and compact and has a decent range! had a few jamming and feeding with thrid party brand magazines such as D boys or CYMA.
but yeah get a nice M4 or if you can stand the weight but get a bonus for accuracy get the M16
or if you are the fan of H&K go for the G36c.
KWA all the way!
BUT that’s just my opinion.

as far a pistols go whatever you like man. guns are guns but everyone is build different.
I have a Co2 powered full auto Taurus Pt99 its similar to a berretta m9 but wider.
however I always wanted something that fit my hand better. and the comprimise was a Colt m1911 my hands are large and fat and it feels good in my hands.
but my favorite pistol is the Walther P99 thats comfortable but the airsoft models they make/offer around here are rare and unreliable.

My arsenal includes a:
KWA M4A1 with a 14’’ freefloat RIS with an EOtech holographic sight and mock suppressor.[electric]
KWA MG36 (previously g36c, built it myself) with a hybrid snap out scope EOtech holographic sight with a 3000 round drum mag.[electric]
UTG M24(series Remington 700) sniper rifle with a 2x-7x scope[spring]
Co2 Taurus Pt99 [Co2 Gas]
colt m1911 delta (best Walmart gun i ever bought)
MP5SD [spring] (bought from Big 5 sports and its a stupidly accurate gun)

My gripe with KWA is that at one point they were amazing guns, now their molds have all become so worn down many new guns will have mold lines(no one wants those), KWA’s have small magwell’s… good luck finding non-KWA mags, especially midcaps, they’re finicky and they always have been so once you open the gearbox and replace parts(even stock factory parts) it will never be the same gun again.
Gen.1 KWA’s… mostly terrible, they were new and didn’t really know what they were doing.
Gen.2’s are amazing, this is what made KWA well known.
Gen.3’s have similar quality internals to the gen.2’s but they are worse, and the externals are rubbish.

I prefer G&P, TM, VFC and occasionally G&G. For lower end AK’s though DBoys “Kalash” series is far better the CYMA(who were once the low/mid-end AK go-to guns.

Companies to stay away from would be JG(for obvious reasons), Classic Army(once one of the premier companies, now trash with terrible internals… the wiring is the worst), Ares/S&T they’re the same company and grew from STAR crap bodies, crap internals…crap, Umarex is over priced junk that took over the H&K license, APS… just don’t get one.

On a side note, with G&P who is by far one of the best companies IMO. All their guns are “batch” made. they make a limited number, normally a couple hundred of one model depending on the model could be more. Once that batch has been made, they stop… no more ever again of that same model. I have the Stubby Killer which uses a Zombie Killer body and theres only a few hundred of the stubby killers but theres plenty of zombie killer receivers out there. So if you see a model you like, best to get it ASAP before they’re gone.

Check out WGCshop.com, I’ve never ordered directly through them because I broker order through a friend, he orders dozens of guns twice a month so as long as I get my order in before he checks out I’m good. So I have no clue shipping cost… though it ships from china not from California like GI/Evike.

TM is where it’s at. You tell me what KWA gun can go 250,000+ rounds without having something break. I’ve owned three TM’s in my airsoft career, and I love them! I’ve owned 2 KWA pistols and while my KZ-75 was awesome, the USP 45 damn near took my head off when the slide went back. No joke, the slide literally blew off the lower frame and nearly conked my head. Here in NC, people have an extreme boner for KWA, but I’ve never understood it.

We have the biggest game on the east coast coming up, FULDA GAP! We had just over 800 players last year and this year we’re expecting closer to 1000!

800 people!?!!?
dang, I need to come to North Carolina and join the fight!
over here in Utah we have a pretty good team
the largest turnout of players Ive seen though was the January Airsoft Open where we had 250 players turn up.
But I got to ask, with that many players how can you keep track of who is who?! you can only have so many arm bands.
I suppose you can break up the group and have one group go one way and one go the other, blow a whistle and charge civil war style at each other. lol
but then peoples survival instincts kick in and start using their brain and try and flank them. only to get mowed down by friendly fire.
then you could raise the argument everyone wearing woodland camo go on one side multicam and Auscam on the other but then wait this guy is wearing desert camo, where does he fit in, but I’m in a Gilly suit and its technically called pathfinder camo and then theres the dudes in a hoodie and jeans… uhhh just remember he has the L96 AWSM.
…it gets complicated.

so how do you distinguish between players?
especially 800 of them?!

anyway
I like TM (Tokyo Mauri) but as I said before Everyone has their beefs and opinions with each brand.
I’m a KWA fanboy, I was sold on it, but I was willing to pay the $400.00 price tag. I wanted a No BS gun and I got it.
I think both my guns were Gen 2’s so that’s my thing.

Now, lets talk about batteries. this will make or break your performance in the field.
it also depends on the gun you get.
but I have two 11.5v Li-po (lithium polymer) batteries with a “smart charger” ( meaning it can detect when the battery has a sufficient charge and does not charge it anymore once it detects a full change in the battery so as to not “overcharge” and wear down the life of the battery)
Li-po is the way to go on all AR’s (Assault Rifles)
THIS IS JUST MY OPINION based on personal experience. I am not a pro or know all that much about batteries and electronics.
but be warned! if you get a high voltage battery like an 11.5v it will wear out a gearbox not rated for such a battery.
The higher voltage does not regulate the velocity(fps) or the range of the gun. just the rate of fire.
… well thats all I can think of for now…

One team woodland and one team desert “chocolate ship cookie” pattern, strict uniform requirements. Meaning ONLY those two patterns, nothing else. If you’re going to a game with that many people then you can shell out the extra 30$-70$ for a full uniform if you don’t already have one.

On batteries, the only ones I choose to use are Elite Batteries from cheapbatterypacks.com, by far the best batteries on the market no doubt… and they’re cheap. Just about everyone in MN uses them now.
I refuse to use LIPO’s because already on 8.4v my guns are insane with RoF. My TM is at about 22. While my G&P was at 30 with an 8.4v. I had to tone down the G&P because I was stripping gears. Plus 30 shots a second is unnecessary. Also with LIPO’s, yes they generally increase RoF but not always, most 9.6v batteries actually are more like 10v-12v depending on the quality(Which you don’t want high voltage like that for most stock guns). High quality ones will be closer to what they’re advertised.

As far as batteries go, I only use Lipos. Not because it’s the new thing for everyone, it’s because my last two batteries (10.8v) both EXPLODED on me when they were charging. I never had good luck when it came to NiCD batteries as they would always either not charge properly or would die completely on me 10 minutes in to the game. Just a note for those of you who use NiCD batts, DON’T put loose change in the same pocket as your battery. The end result isn’t pretty.

Yep, I play, a lot. In my weapon locker, I have an A&K SVD (bolt), Echo 1 G3, JG AK-74u, A&K M-60VN and a H&K USP .45. I even made a home made claymore.

With the two teams I play with, one team does the pick your team mates before each game (so green and tan will be on the same team) but with the other, we do something much better. It’s tan vs green but to even the teams up, we have the people dressed in black or in civi clothes spread on both teams. I am one of those people who will be getting a full military kit. But I am going for the 1990s Soviet trooper look. Trying to get rid of the M702 so I can buy a VZ61 CQB Scorpion.

Trying to get rid of my WG Full Metal M702 MAGNUM High-Powered CO2 Semi-Automatic Revolver Airsoft Pistol. Anyone watta trade?

Just a little update, some of my teammates and other friends went to OP: Irene like a week or two ago. If you don’t know what Irene is, google it. The funny thing is, they didn’t tell me so I was just browsing FB one day and what do I see? My friends having the time of their lives at the premier airsoft game in the nation… SoB. Oh well, its invite only and I don’t have the connections(yet) to the guy that can get me in. Within 5 years I will for sure be going, as long as my financial situation is good. Still completely jealous they all went…

I have the same problem as SilverFrame i love airsoft but i keep spending all my money on real gun parts. Im workin on a magpul and troy AR-15 at the moment. Upper and lower are Daniel Defense and the barrel is a 16 inch hexigonal rifleing mid weight Rock River. I still need a BCG and a good trigger though. Im thinkin a two stage but idk what brand.