What am I doing wrong with MGs ?!

So I’ve started building Master Grades fairly recently and I’ve had really bad luck when it comes to them.

First the joints of my MG Buster Gundam that attach to the guns snapped and I had to order replacement parts, not to mention figure out how to remove the broken ball joint.

Then when I tried to order a MG Ginn from Amazon and it never got shipped. So I had to cancel the order and get it elsewhere. At the very least the build went pretty well.

And now things have gotten worse with my MG Epyon. First I ended up with a bootleg and had to go through a lot of stuff to get a refund and order a real one. Then when I got to building the real thing, one of the leg spikes snapped and I had to glue it in place, then I snapped one of the ball joints on the heat rod, so now it’s slightly smaller. Then today the sword broke while I was trying to move it in the arm and now I’m struggling to glue the rim back to the handle.

So what am I doing wrong with my MG kits? Why do I keep having so much bad luck and parts keep breaking on me?

Can anyone give me some tips on how to stop having these problems in the future?

So, everything that you’ve described with the MG Epyon are common problems that everyone has had issues with.

As for, what you could do. My only suggestion is to take more time and slowly move things around.


yea the mg epyon’s joints to the spikes on the legs, the sword handle, and the whip are all very delicate and break super easy.

I noticed a few things as i have a mg epyon from bandai. I also got an ext5ra kit to use for kitbashes, and the knock off epyon. I found the knockoff epyons sword handle didn;t break on me instantly. The wip ball joints are still delicate but are much sturdier and hold the weight better. And the leg spikes are just as delicate.

Really the knockoff was overall better in my experience. The only complaint was the eye and camera stickers don’t look as good. Every kit has at least some tiny flaw. And whats funny is that mechanical designs that fell short can be improved in other kits. both mg tallgeese 3 kits use the same bad design for the wip tail weapon. But the rg tallgeese 3 changed the design. They used a thick flexible wire that the whip parts slide onto. So the ball joints can’t snap and the weight is supported.

Most of the time i find mgs to be better personally.

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There is only 1 solid solution to keep having the problems you described.

Do the followings:

  1. Purchase the kit that you want
  2. Once received, open and check the parts over to make sure no damage to the parts, broken parts, or loose parts.
  3. Close the box back on and store it away to become permanent backlog. :rofl: You can skip step 2 if you do not wish to check them.

But seriously though, what you describe happens to model kits all the time, not just MGs. That is pretty much why they sell glue and epoxy putty and all kinds of stuffs. Broke one of the part on the big backpack sword of the MG Red Frame Kai few weeks ago because the part became too brittle, was not even trying to much to it. So these things happens all the time, more so if you have them displayed.

There are few things to keep in mind about the kits, personally observed anyway, not based on any actual data.

The plastic from the official kits, while most of time in good quality, do suffer from batch issue from time to time. Meaning MG Epyon from last month might have or might not have the same quality of plastic from the ones months before. That is the problem with mass production. Even if they do have quality control, sometimes those things happened. Similar thing happened to other manufacturers, such as Tomy Takara. There were issues of their top of line Transformers Masterpiece line from before and there were tons of discussion about it.

Another thing would be whether or not you have the kit displayed or not and the locations. If you have the kit displayed, several factors can affect the kit such as temperature, lighting, and whether or not sunlight will be shinning on it directly or indirectly. If you have the kit displayed in a place that temperature differences were big, sudden hot and cold such as window sill for example, the quality of the plastic will definitely be affected. Too hot and plastic an melt and too cold plastic can easily became brittle. For the lighting, halogen or incandescent light definitely will be too hot for the plastic. Fluorescent or compact fluorescent seemed to be okay, but they do emit some level of UV radiation. LED is probably what most people use these days, but to get a very high level amount of light from LED, the more power will needed to be drive to the LED or its driver, and that do still require a fair amount of cooling.

Finally, if you have your kit painted, that does provide a certain level of protection from the environment. But it also depends on the type of paint you use and whether or not you prime the kit before painting. If you use acrylic paint, you probably can get away without priming the kit and the paint should not affect the plastic too much. However, if you use enamel paint, it might be best to prime the kit because enamel paint definitely can affect the plastic if you paint it straight onto the kit.

After all the writing, not sure where this is going anymore… :rofl: But if you are worry about parts breaking, maybe you might want to invest into the metal build figures. Have yet to own one, cannot say with certainty, but as far as known, their frames were metal or at least similar to that of Soul of Chogokin, where armors might be plastic but important parts were diecast.