SGordon WIP Table

Greetings. It’s been a couple of weeks, but between work, family, and other hobbies I’ve not been able to post much. However, I did build 3 Gundam last week and am in the final stages of my 4th.

MG Buster Gundam.

I just liked the way Buster looks, and I could probably drop kick this kit with a running start and it won’t fall over. The caveat is the kit is difficult to pose without it looking sort of awkward. For now, I’ve left Buster just standing there.

Matching the green was pretty easy - the color is a deep and cool forest green; Tamiya Racing Green.
The “white” of the kit is deceptive. It looks almost beige but could be very light sand. It’s neither. The color is a spot-on match to Tamiya Racing White, that creamy aged white sometimes called “antique white.” Where I ran into some color matching issues was that funky ‘almost-but-not’ Melon color. In some images online it looks like it could be Bright Orange and in others, it appears like it could be Competition Orange (leans yellow). In truth, I don’t know what the hell it is, but I did try and layer some paint to get something close. I did-ish, but not close enough I wanted to use it. Of the 5 attempts to create the color, the closest was:

White Primer
Coat of Pink
Coat of translucent Orange.

Most other combinations looked more like Thousand Island Dressing or like someone mixed Mayo and Katsup with a touch of mustard. Gross.


Tamiya Racing White
Tamiya Matte White
Tamiya Racing Green
Tamiya German Grey
Tamiya Gunship Grey

I didn’t do much detailing outside the standard colors and placements. It’s a basic kit, older, and not a lot going on except weird colors and kick-ass hip-mounted weapons.

I went with the D.L.Models waterslides for this. The yellow decals weren’t as vibrant as I’d hoped, but they worked out ust fine in the end.

MG Exia Ignition Mode
I had planned on getting into weathering with this kit since it already comes with busted parts, but looking at the parts, there just wasn’t enough to motivate me into weathering the overall kit and I opted for a clean Exia and gave the repair parts away to another forum user.

I’m overall pleased with how this kit built, but I find the ankle joints are really loose and Exia tends to fall over if I stance the Gundam with both feet flat (hence why it looks like there’s a gimpy ankle). I’ll go back and tighten the ankles up later.

I did do a few color modifications on Exia, mainly in the shield with a subtle change from white to grey in the shield tips. I also made a mistake on the shield with enamel and while trying to clean it up, spilled thinner on it. This caused it to become brittle and it snapped in two. I glued it back together and it was fine, but I should have been more careful.


Tamiya Brilliant Blue
Tamiya Blue
Tamiya German Grey
Tamiya Gunship Grey
Tamiya Clear Green
Tamiya Pure White
Tamiya Chrome Silver
Tamiya Bright Red
Vallejo Mecha Metallic Green

You may notice the primary sword is on the ‘wrong’ hand. I was on a phone call for work and wasn’t paying attention to the facing of the submachine gun connector tot he sword and… made it left-handed. Because I had already broken a part and had to glue it together, I wasn’t looking to break or stress another part. I left it alone and now Exia is left-handed in my kit.

The shoulders on Exia attach like Dynames and Buster, where the fitting is supposed to snug down on the ball for the arm where it connects to the body. The issue is that when you move the arm, the shoulder wants to free up and sort of hangs in place. I haven’t found a good way to keep this happening, but I’m not a fan, especially since Exia as the GN ribbon on the shoulders. If I keep Exia still, the shoulders look fairly natural, but when I get a stand I may have to rethink keeping the shoulder in place and how to do that without glue or some other unattractive means.

Strike Freedom Full Burst Mode

I was at the local hobby store and they had just made space for an aisle of Gundam (mainly HG and SD), but next to a Seven Sword PG was SF Full Burst. I snagged it on a whim.

Reading and watching reviews of this kit, I already knew the gold plating on the runners was garbage, but I had also seen several people fix this in various ways. the main way I’ve seen people fix it was base coat black, gold, and then clear yellow. the result would be a nice yellow gold. More on that later…

I like big kits, kits with tons of detail, and stuff everywhere; the more complex, the better (IMO).

I started this kit last Saturday morning and finished it Sunday evening. I have seen many reviews where builders suggest building the backpack wings first. I don’t suggest that because when assembled, they’re massive. Folded and stacked, they’re thick, spread open and flayed out, its just a large radius to set aside for a while. I tend to start with weapons to ‘warm-up’ as it were.

I think the feet are like skis. They’re long and narrowish, but without a backpack, Strike Freedom stands just fine - then again, what’s the point of Strike Freedom without the wings?

Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue
Tamiya Metallic Red
Tamiya Brilliant Blue
Tamiya Pure White
Tamiya Haze Grey
Tamiya Metallic Gold
Tamiya Gold
Tamiya Black
Tamiya Chrome Silver
Tamiya Clear Blue
Tamiya Clear Green

NOTE ABOUT TS-84 Tamiya Metallic Gold
This is a fantastic color. It’s a very shiny gold akin to Titanium Gold in a finish color, however…

you must base coat black and NO topcoat once applied. Tamiya paints are ‘hot’ and TS-84 will dissolve instantly wif applying a Tamiya Clear on top. Using Rustoleum or Krylon clear coats significantly dull TS-84 into more of bronze, almost a copper. I also tried using the PS line, which is still a hot paint. Like a clear coat, the PS cans are just as ‘hot’ and will blacken the layer of gold. Acrylic doesn’t cause a reaction and it’s foolish to brush paint clear yellow on this kit because everything, even the frame, is gold.

As with every other kit, I avoid foil stickers and stickers if at all possible. I masked the assault rifles and painted the blue

I also added a touch of red to the skirt parts and some lenses to the hip mouted beam cannons:

In the end, it’s a great build, but it is tedious

RX-93 Nu Gundam

My first gunpla was the RG Nu, but I wanted to have a 1/100 ver. It’s a smooth build, the legs are sturdy, but it comes with a stand

Tamiya Bright Red
Tamiya Camel Yellow
Tamiya Black
Tamiiya Bare Metal Steel
Tamiya Insignia White
Tamiya Navy Blue (USAF)
Tamiya Dark Blue
Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan
Tamiya German Grey
Tamiya Gunship Grey
Tamiy Metallic Gold
Tamiya Matte White
Tamiya Light Grey (USAF)
Tamiya Chrome Silver

I liked Nu comes with a sheet of stickers to make the subtle color differences on the kit. However, these colors can be painted too (hence, Navy Blue and Light Grey. Primer grey was too warm, Insignia White is too subtle, but Light Grey is almost spot-on to the included color patch stickers and Navy Blue has the right touch of Grey to remain distinct yet subtle).

I took the black stand base and made it the iconic red of the Amuro Ray “A”.

I painted the hoses on the back of the leg with Wooden Deck Tan to keep some of the details from fading to the background and being lost as just a grey frame

I’m using a mixture of the D.L. Models Metallic Waterslides and the kit waterslide because unlike metallic paint, metallic decals don’t “flat” and become a base color - rather they take on a non-glossy appearance but retain a metallic sheen.

I have the fin funnels to build, but I need to get more Clear Flat and Matte White before I can. I also have some touching up on waist skirts where I masked off the areas to paint what would have been the color stickers.

All in all, Nu has been the smoothest build of kits I’ve done this far. The plastic feels slightly more playable and been easier to clean up in sanding and the parts have a snug fit. Several other builders have said the legs loosen up over time but I assume they’re actively posing their kits often (which makes it understandable for this to happen, and not a problem with the kit per se).

Just need to get the fin funnels done, and a solid flat top coat.


You’ve done some fantastic work here, keep it up!

1 Like

I haven’t posted in a bit, but I was replenishing funds available for my habit. If things go as expected at work, with part of my bonus, I will have 10MG and 3PG by April to build.

For now, I have completed two kits:
Sinanju Stein Ver Ka and Sazabi Ver Ka

Sinanju Stein Ver Ka

![_DSC0024 (1)|690x460]

Sinanju was as solid a build as Nu-Gundam, and it’s a very stable kit. As with most Ver Ka. the leftover accessories can be a little annoying, but at the same time, those extra accessories are integral to dioramas and recreating various iconic scenes some builders may pine for. Being a new Gunpla (I hate that term) builder, I find myself more toward a strict modeler branching into the realm of posing for certain scenes. I view the HG line as small for diorama, the MG line for a close-up fight scene or something of a single action pose, and then PG as a center-piece to apply focus on a single unit. RG seems to be for detailed dioramas with more realism as opposed to the detail lacking distance view found in an anime pan shot.

That said, I’m not overly interested in the plethora of 1/44 kits because the HG generally lacks the detail and tedium I prefer and the RG, even with the detail, tends to have so many differences from the MG counterpart, that they seem like a detailed HG with MG articulation. Engh, cool for others, not cool for me.

My Sinanju Stein was colored after some of the ideas in the presentation of the Anchoret resin conversion. This isn’t the resin kit, but what I’ve noticed with these resin kits that make them look very good is the additional color separation.

I liked the Navy continuation and painting the leg ball joints, adding Pure White to some of the waist skirts, and two steps of grey (Light Grey and Neutral Grey)

When Sinanju was completed, I wanted to take advantage of having beam sabers coming out of the arms directly, but that will have to wait until I build a display cabinet later this year.

Once I got him mounted on an action base, I went with a more basic pose. Again, I’ll address the lack of dynamic bad-assery of Sinanju poses later.



The first thing I learned about Sazabi is that everyone is right: Sazabi is a statue. I don’t mind that fact, rather I prefer it. I’m not entirely sure how I’ll pose it oppose Nu in the future display case, but… I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it.

If I have an actual complaint about Sazabit Ver ka, it’s for someone without an airbrush, that damn Char Pink only comes in a can in Mr. Color which doesn’t (allegedly) work well with Tamiya. For me, it also takes weeks to arrive and if I’m being honest, I bought Sazabi on a whim. I planned on buying this kit but not just yet. The local Hobby Town had it in stock for $80 and I couldn’t walk away from it.

I believe my choice of reds were off - Tamiya Bright Red and Dull Red. Dull red is too brownish and Bright Red is too…red? In hindsight, Dull Red would be okay, but instead of Bright Red, I should have gone with Italian Red (older cans would be called Ferrari Red). Italian Red is slightly more orange than red, so while it’s saturated and vibrant, it would have a better overall tone in combination with the other colors.

Being a completionist, I can’t NOT paint the pilots that come with kits and I can’t bring myself to apply less than the indicated decals and will always attempt to get waterslide instead of dry transfer or tetron stickers.

I’m not great at painting people that tiny and don’t understand how the pictures in the manual have these painted so cleanly.

1 Like

Bought a Providence MG… Hated it. Absolute chore to build, but mainly because the colors are putrid. I made so many mistakes on it and felt disappointed with it all around. I’ll detail post in that sometime this week.

Also bought RX-78-02 Origin. Read a lot of comparisons for people stuck choosing between Origin and 3.0. People love the build quality of Origins but wish it has the color separation of 3.0. Easy fix - masking. However, I also see a lot of builds showing Origins in white - not a fan since it’s molded in off white or cream, like Buster Gundam is.

Lastly, also bought a Thunderbolt ver Ka. Tough to choose between the Psycho Zaku and what I got. A bit of buyer’s remorse in that psycho zaku seems to be sold out everywhere now. It’ll come back around and I really wanted to tackle the challenge of another Ver Ka.

1 Like

Thunderbolt is a good kit, if you don’t know already be careful putting the arms into the shoulders. There’s a weird peg gimmick where if it’s not in correctly and rotated it breaks.

I’ve heard that there are some t-pegs for the armor I need to be careful about when cutting from the sprue but this is the first I head about the arms. Good advice! Thank you

1 Like