Panel Lining over airbrushed surface - is there any safe method?

as its stated , Im working on a No - Name astray HG 1/144 - I was pleased with my first round of coats so I blindly attempted to panel line over the airbrushed surface with a pour panel line marker and it was pretty troubling , I was able to panel line but it resulted pretty badly when I tried to qtip out the messy splotches from the panel lining now im kinda here defeated and demoralized , knowing I have to wipe off the airbrush coating and start all over again X_X.

I don’t know how so many builders are able to airbrush then are able to get such perfect panel lines over there paint coat layers with no panel like splotches.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated !

Did you spray s gloss clear coat over your airbrushed surface before you did your panel lining?

actually I used matte coating , that was prolly a horrible thing to do right ? X______X

Gloss will help the paint flow through the lines better.

o okay will it also help with being able to clean out panel line paint splotches as well ? And what can I use as a budget clear coat spray ? ( I Know I should be using the mr. hobby / Tamiya stuff prolly)

There’s your problem lol. When you do decals and panel lining you want a gloss coat because it’s a smooth surface and it makes the panel lining flow through the panel lines and around details easy. It also makes clean up easier. A matt coat is bumpy so your ink basically grabs onto the tiny bumps making it more difficult to panel line and clean up. If you can get all of the ink cleaned off and so long as your painted surface isn’t damaged you can shoot a few coats of gloss clear over the matt finish and do your panel lining once the gloss clear has fully dried. Then you can shoot a matt finish on your kit when your completely finished.

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@Rxslinger and @MR_JQ thank you so much you guys are heroes , Im going to reattempt this this weekend ! , AND im going to be redjusting my Work flow now , TY !!!

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This is literally the cheapest thing that you can use next to cans of spray paint and a lot of model builders us this. Here’s a article for you to read about it.

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woah can I just load this into my airbrush and have at it ?

Yes you can pour it in your AB, pull the trigger and let it fly. You don’t need to thin it and if I remember correctly you can use windex or any ammonia based cleaner or rubbing alcohol to clean your AB when your done.

I recommend painting some plastic spoons with your paint and testing the floor polish on those to make sure it won’t harm your paint before you spray it on your kit.

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Yes pledge (used to be called Future) is a great gloss coat. It’s cheap and it lasts a very long time.

This is what I use as my gloss coat. I use a 50/50 mix of Windex and water to clean it from my ab.

How does this hold up over time?

Being prior military, some would try to get a parade shine on their shoes and boots. While it was terriffic for a day, I heard they over time, it tends to chip and doesn’t do well in say, a window. Granted, there’s a huge difference between PS and leather, too

I don’t have an airbrush, but I rattle can pretty well.

As others have said, gloss coat.

If you’ve ever used Photoshop, the concept is essentially the same and you think about things in layers. However, I panel line last because some decals may cover a panel line and I soften them (or cut) to free the line.

The clear coat will serve as a buffer between types and layers of paint while also providing a smooth surface.

Gloss, is smooth while matte cures/dries/hardens with rigid crystals that deflect light. It also subsequently has a slight texture. If you ink, wash, or paint over it and then try and clean it up you will drag dissolved paint with pigment particles across a surface that will then trap that pigment. Assuming you ran in to a situation where you had a streaky mess when trying to clean the panel lines - that’s why.

Fortunately, there are a few other ways you can clean it up without having to lay yet another coat of surface (more coats can fill detail and become more difficult to work with).

If you’re using enamel, use a high polymer eraser and the enamel will peel off. Don’t wait too long or you’ll burn through the eraser, but it works in a pinch.

I sometimes use the flat edge of a hobby knife and shave off the excess. Be very careful, too shallow of an angle and you will gouge the plastic. I use this to shave a mold line on curved or complex surfaces where sanding will pose a challenge, too…so same concept. You’ll probably end up adding another topcoat anyway after decals to lock them in place (I do on waterslide since lacquer topcoats will soften decals and work air bubbles out during the degassing process.

I used the shaving method on my MG Astray last week. Since it had been almost 10 years since I really did any serious models, I did have to stumble through a process and out down some acrylic over a matte finish, completely forgetting what happens. I had metallic green dragged across a pure white piece and had to shave the topcoat off two leg vents to make them that bright white again. PITA, but kept me from having a ruined kit.