Need help finding paint matched to mg gouf custom 2001 release kit

ok, so I’m helping a buddy source paints and whatnot for an mg 2001 release gouf custom kit, and we’re both having a hard time sourcing paint for this kit, the color he needs is ‘gouf blue’ aka the base color of the machine, and if not for the fact the seed basic blue needs some white in it, that’d be perfect.

can anyone make a recommendation on a suitable paint, and the method of application?

Here’s a breakdown of the color guide by Mech9. I can’t find "goif blue anywhere on line.
I did find MS blue, but I don’tthink it’s the correct shade for the gouf custom. Your best bet will be to mix your own colors based off of the color guide.

Here it is. They also give a conversion table for other brands of paint to use that will match the colors listed in the color guide.

Sorry i forgot to post the link.

given all he’s looking to do is hide nub marks from where the parts are cut from the tree, how precise a match to the plastic colors do I really need, or can he get away with using the ‘dab gundam marker, wipe’ method?

He could try gundam marker method and se what happens.

How bad are tge nub marks? I’m assuming the plastic is distressed. Has he tried sanding and buffing? Somes if the plastic isn’t damaged and just has a white spot from where it was cut from the runner you can make the mark less noticeable by rubbing the mark with something hard like the handle of a hobby knife or he could apply a little heat to it which could also remove the white make.

hasn’t even started nipping parts off, we’re trying to get the prep work out of the way, including obtaining any needed supplies.

I’ve already proposed using glass files(the same ones I linked to and indicated I’m using in another thread) as a mess free method, and have offered to try my hand at hand mixing some acrylic model paint for him(have white and blue gloss handy) so its his decision at this point.

I’m just the one doing all the leg work on it ^^

I see, personally Im not a fan of glass files. I feel they provide poor results compared to other methods. I prefer using 400-2000 grit sand paper and using a nail buffing sponge for giving it a shine.

I suggest cutting the part off the runner as far from the part as possible and trimming the nub with a hobby knife or file then sanding smooth.

When using heat to remove a white mark from the nubs, what is recommended?

Try mixing your own if you can’t find it. I would say play with it a little. Take some regular blue and lighten it with white. If lighten but not dull try a hint of red, what type of paint are you using

Appling heat too plastic is a old school method too restore damaged and faded plastic fenders and on dirt bikes and quads. The heat warms the plastic and causes the oils in the plastic to rise to the surface.

It takes some practical to get it to work without damaging the part. You want to use a heat source zippo lighter/candle (candle prefered, it has a more consistent flame). Since heat rises you want to hold the part several inches above the heat source and let the plastic warm slowly so not to damage the part.

You can see the plastic is stressed.

You can see the stress mark

You can see the stress making is gone, but I go a little too close to the flame.

gonna send him acrylic, since it can be washed off with water while they’re still wet.

Alright, thanks for the info.

Honestly the best way to deL with it is still just painting the kit or just be very meticulous when removing the parts from the sprue to avoid stress marks all together.

I am pretty careful about cutting the parts out from the sprues, just sometimes it doesn’t always work out for me. Just was curious about another option instead of paint.

my glass files have actually been standing me in good stead…the only marks left are from when I dont pay attention and allow the file to tilt one way or another.

turned those into battle damage scars on my MG aile strike ver rm kit…thank you pour types!

On thing I thought about try was steam, but I haven’t had the opportunity to give it a try. Like you im meticulous and extremely careful when cutting parts.

I know people like glass fills, but im not a fan of them. I have better luck achieving great results with just various grits if sandpaper and a little plastic polish when needed.

I dont use them ALL the time, but more when it comes to ensuring mechanically functional parts have a smooth action if you will, since I can get the fit pretty precise with a few deft strokes.

such as the mg aile strike ver rm, the legs have that double jointed mechanical action in the knee caps.