Hand Paint?

So while my Exia dries, I’m putting together my Tallgeese and I must say I’m quite impressed. I thought about painting it but I don’t think I’m going to. However I am going to do some light hand painting for detail work. So my question is which paint to use? At my local hobby store they have Testors, Model Master and another brand that I can’t recall. Are these good to use or no? Also do I still need to prime the piece if I’m hand painting details or does it not matter?

I detail paint all my kits with either Testors or Model Masters. So you should be just fine. As for priming, I have never primed a part that I was just going to detail paint. If you’re using metallics then you shouldn’t have to prime anything.

I use the above mentioned paints, but I’m also quickly becoming a fan of Vallejo paints.

You’ll have better luck with Model Masters stuff (either Acryl version or enamel version) than normal Testor’s, which can be hit or miss.

And yep, no priming needed for any sort of detail painting.

Thanks guys! How long do you usually let yours dry before you add another layer or the topcoat (I’m using acrylic by the way).

Personally, somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes. When it’s visibly dry, then dry to the touch.

I’ve also been told my painting methods are heresy to some, but others can vouch I bang out some awesome stuff.

Asterisk does have some awesome pieces. I normally let acrylics dry for about 12-24 hours before putting a top coat on them. As for other layers of paint, probably 30mins to an hour.

Awesome. How much thinner, if any, do you usually use?

Personally when hand painting I don’t thin my paints. Though I probably should on a few of them. If you’re using Model Masters metallics or acrylics, you shouldn’t need to thin them. Other stuff like Gunship Grey, might need some thinning. Though, the ratio, I do not know. Never thinned it myself.

I usually don’t thin my paints. If you do, I would recommend only a little at time. test the consistency of the paint by brushing it up against the walls of the mixing dish or jar. Be careful though, I have messed up MANY things trying to hand-paint them. Best advice is to take it slow, and don’t rush.

I wait 10 to 15 minutes in between layers, but it can be shorter if I’m using something like Tamiya or mix in Future with my Vallejo paints. I don’t really see the benefit of waiting for, say, an hour in between coats. For top coat, I wait 24 hours before putting another layer on.

If you’re just handpainting details, there isn’t a need to thin. In fact, it’s often better to paint right from the bottle, so to speak, for any detail work. This is because you can get the paint applied in one or two quick strokes, lessening the chance of possibly causing a mistake as you do more layers. For larger details, if you do need to thin, try thinning at 1:2 ratio (for example, one drop of paint mixed in with two drops of thinner) and go from there.

You guys don’t prime at ALL when you do detail work!? Dear God, I prime (using P3 primer) my Warhammer models which has much smaller details and I haven’t had any problems.

Not that strange, really. If someone was doing detail work on an OOB kit, there is no reason to prime the surfaces unless the paint just won’t stick. Certain paints stick well to plastic without priming also (enamels and Vallejo acrylics, for example), so that’s another reason not to do it.

I usually don’t prime for details. I lightly sand it with 1000 grit. Instant primer.