Decals/Stickers

I feel like a complete idiot asking this, but what are the differences in the decals and stickers? I understand that the decals look better and such, I’m not asking that. I’m asking how do I apply the different ones and how can I tell them apart.
Let’s take my newly opened MG Tallgeese EW for example. Below are the three sets of decals/stickers that came with the kit.

The one on the right is obviously foil stickers that I don’t plan on using (I’ll hand paint those pieces more than likely). But what are the other two? Do you use these decals/stickers or do you order your own decals from elsewhere?

The light blue backed ones are clear decals. Those go on like any average sticker. The clear one with white…fibrous paper stuff? Those are dry transfer decals.

Thanks Asterisk! When is the best time to put them on? I’m not 100% sure if I’m going to paint this model (depends on how I feel about it after I assemble it), but if I do when would I put it on? Do I do them at the same time as the panel lining or after and put a clear coat between them?

Watch this:

//youtu.be/TACMjQP97WI

Wow, that was incredibly helpful! One last question, does the dry transfer do alright on painted models? I think I recall somebody saying that the tape had messed up their paint, is this common or no?

That really depends on the paint, and how long you let it cure before putting the tape on it. If you let the paint fully cure you shouldn’t have an issue. And it also depends on the tape you use. It’s recommended that you use some masking tape. Like Tamiya’s masking tape. 3M can really leave some residue. It’s happened to me before.

I’ve never done all of the stickers/decals…normally used to just do a few stickers and call it a day. As I’m doing all the decals and stickers now, I was wondering if they ever give you extra. Like I have a couple of decals and stickers left over that I can’t see where they’re supposed to go.

Usually you do get some extras, especially for the smaller ones. Even after-market decals (either official Bandai sheets or those from 3rd party sources) give you extras. I never apply all of the decals also because it can end up making the kit look tacky.

I have a question regarding stickers. What is the difference between using angled and straight tweezers for applying them?

The stickers in question are tiny, from an MG kit. One is uses a blue sheet, and the other, a transparent one. There is also a small sheet with the Gundam’s eyes and head lights, that is not pictured. (pic)

Picture is blocked for me. It sounds like you have a set of foil stickers, which would be the eyes and camera lens’, a set of dry transfers which is the clear sheet, water sliders are typically on a blue sheet. So they aren’t exactly stickers, they’ll need water in order to apply them. Can you tell us what kit these are from?

Dry transfers on painted kits. I can tell you I’ve only ever had an issue one time… and it was bad.

If you are going the “cheap” route and buying hardware spray paint instead of hobby spray paint, stay away from Rustoleum. Or at the very least be extra cautious with it. I used a blue Rustoleum on my MG Wing Ver EW and the film, not the tape, the FILM that the dry transfers come printed on stuck to the paint and peeled it right up in big nasty chunks. I blame the paint. I let it dry and cure for days and days, but it happened. I was able to put the rest of the dry transfers on the blue sections if I was very careful to lightly place the cut out marking exactly where I wanted and (without tape) gently apply pressure only to the marking. It was a tedious task…

I’ve never had that problem on Krylon or any modeling paint before or since. So just be aware of that.

EDIT:

Angled tweezers are angled so you can hold them at a more comfortable angle and still see what you are doing. The choice is yours, friend. Also, Dalong does not allow direct links to his pictures. You’ll have to go to the picture, right click and copy the image url.