Buruburu's 1/144 RG Stike Freedom

Hey folks. So been working on this one for the past couple weeks on and off. Usually I’m working on 2-3 kits at a time so that I can jump between kits and not burn myself out. Finally finished putting down the base coat on the RG Strike Freedom tonight, and I thought I would share.

Unfourtnately, while I was reassemblying everything together, I accidentally snapped the peg that’s on the waist. Which is why you won’t see the painted railgun. The cement is still curing, and I hoping that it’ll hold. I was not a happy camper when it happened.

So just as background, I used a Master G23 with Mr Color Acrylics for the majority of the kit. The only part that’s not Mr. Color is the gold frame. That was painted with Tamiya. Everything was thinned with 91% alcohol, and everything was sprayed on top of Vallejo Primer. I was able to match up to the original colors for everything but the dark blue sections. I think what I did wrong there was I tried to bring more blue out, but what I needed to do was add more complementary color to make it darker. BTW, the entire frame is painted gold, so none of the cheap looking yellow crap.

Once the peg sets again, I’m gonna be clearcoating it with Futures, and then start working on the panel lining. After that, another layer of futures and the decals.

Enjoy… (Photos taken with a Fuji X-Pro 1) Love the colors that this camera puts out.

My tools

And more photos…

That is one good looking Strike Freedom man. I love the lighting that you used. Very well done. The paint job looks great as well, you matched up the colors great.

As strange and odd as it sounds, my opinion is that if you want to try to learn how to airbrush, start on a RG grade model. Bandai has already taken care of the color separation for you, you don’t have to do any masking at all. I’ve been cursing at my HG F91 for the past 3 weeks and now I just want to toss that thing into a bon fire.

So the gold on the kit looks better in person than the photo. Not sure why, but the camera has taken away a lot of metallics. There are actually a few imperfection in the painting, which I’ll probably go into later so that people can learn from my mistakes or get some ideas in how they should approach painting the Strike Freedom.

A beautiful piece of work. The colors just take your attention right from the get-go. Did you get any issues with paint scraping for the frame?

Curious to see the imperfections you mentioned, also.

I actually have the RG Strike Freedom sitting in my back log waiting for a custom paint scheme. So any tips and tricks you got will certainly help.

Very nice. The finish looks almost professional.

IIRC, the main issue with painting the frame is the elbow joint. You can’t really paint the entire piece in one go cause a part of it will always be hidden depending on how you have the elbow bent. You probably have to paint it over two session, but you end up risking scraping the paint if you don’t give the first coat enough time to cure.

Hey Buddy!

Didn’t realize you we’re the new guy to the Austin Club :smiley:

Not sure if you’ve read the Pinned Post I did but we are doing a SD Kit Contest and I’m gonna be placing a order on Gundamplanet on the 15th for all members that want to order and not pay shipping. We’re limited to SD Kits and there’s a $5 Contest Fee all of which are going to a prize pool for 1st and or Runner Up.

Join! Also since it’s SXSW this week/next. Should come kick it.

Great work on the SF, gonna be working on my MG SF FB for a contest and I’m stoaked.

Went through the Strike Freedom and here’re unfortunate flaws that needs to get corrected next time.

So here’s the peg that I broke. One thing to be careful after painting is that with the extra layer of paint, it now requires a bit more force to open and close the railgun. If you’re not careful close and opening the railgun, it becomes a gigantic lever that pivots at the gold hinge. Gigantic level = gigantic pry bar which means broken pegs. *sigh… The cement doesn’t seem to be holding very well so I’m gonna need to find a better way to fix this.

Around the chest area, you can see where some of the paint got chipped off from me handling the pieces too early. Should of left it alone for at least an entire day for the paint to cure. Probably didn’t help that Texas has been freezing the past couple days.

Could of done a better job here taking care of the nub. This was before I made my electric sander so I had to rely on hand sanding. Sometimes I would try to cheat by laying the paper flat on my desk and then pull the part back and forth to try to get a flat edge. Unfortunately if I can’t hold the piece just right and it ends up reshaping the surface.

This is a bit interesting…The whitepaint you see here is actually from the arms. Somehow the white paint decided to adhere to the adjoining piece rather than on the primer. Not a big deal really since you can’t see that edge anyway.

And here’s a nub that I completely forgot… Doh…

More nub issues on the legs.

More nub issues yet again, and the accidental reshape of the knee armor

This one’s pretty bad. I didn’t have enough of my custom mix and when I noticed that I was potentially going to run out, I started doing lighter and lighter layers. Even worse is that while I was mixing the paint I started getting frustrated at not getting the color that I wanted and I lost track of my paint ratios. Without that ratio, I couldn’t remix more paint.

And cat hair. *sigh… damn cat. One additional note about the dragoons. Even without paint, these pieces are already RIDICULOUS tight. With paint on, it’s even worse, and I actually had to use pliers to press the pieces in to the gold frame. You can basically forget about closing and opening the plates. If you do, make sure you do it with two hand and slowly pry so you don’t accidentally make the plates into a lever and break everything.

Sounds like there a lot of tolerances between certain parts that need to either be sanded a bit or not painted at all to prevent from being too tight. Some of those nub issues are difficult to spot as well without close scrutiny.

Still looks a hellava lot better than the kits i paint.

Looks like I’m going to need to be extra careful and take my time when I paint this guy.

I’m getting back into the gundam modeling game after a long time (last model I did was at least 7-8 years ago) and this is the model I got to get back into the swing of things. Also I chose it to learn airbrushing!! This thread is definitely helpful to me. Did you sand the dragoons before painting?

Only sanding done was to the nubs. But before I painted, I’d wash the entire piece in dishwasher soap liquid to get any oil off and primed the entire thing with light grey primer.