Brotzmann/Know My Product

I haven’t kept up with my WIP thread to well so I decided just to start a thread of my finished product for better or worse.

Super Deformed Tohou (Karaoke)
Model Kit #228
This was the 3rd Gundam kit I finished around Feb. 2013. It took me forever because of all the detail on all the many accessories I had to paint. I used spray enamel and hand painted enamel as well. I used Gundam Markers for the panel lining and some detail. From this kit I learned the SD kits that look really cool will take forever to finish like pictured on the box.

Satan Gundam
BB Senshi Gundam Kit #48
This is my 4th kit I completed a few weeks ago around the end of Feb. beginning of March 2013. I used sprayed and hand painted enamels and used Gundam markers for panel lining and detail. I also used some lacquer spray cans before the enamel for a few colors. The skull on Satan’s stick will shoot off with the spring mechanism. It was a fun kit to build.

MG MS-06 F/J Zaku II
This is the 1.0 version of this kit. I got it as part of my Gold GSAM membership. It’s the first kit I airbrushed and used water slide decals on. I used Tamiya, Vallejo, and Future floor polish with my new AB. I’d like to do one of the 2.0 versions of the Zaku II some time.

SD MS-06 F/J Zaku II
I did this at the same time as my MG version of this kit. It was fun to do it along with the MG.

I couldn’t resist getting a picture of the MG with the SD Zaku II. I’ll have more pictures to post here shortly. I’ve got a couple kits going right now so it shouldn’t be too long. I just started the RX-78-2 2.0 MG kit at the last meeting of the Triad plastic modeling society I joined in Muskegon, MI. I’m the only Gundam guy.

HAH. Love the pic with the SD and MG. I’m a state over in the Chicago, IL area.

Impressive work. I love the metallic blue and bright gold you used on the Satan Gundam. Your Zaku (both of them, haha) are looking spiffy as well. What kind of Vallejo paints did you use?

I was born and raised in Illinois and grew up in the suburbs of Chicago. I’m a graduate of Downers Grove South HS.
I used Vallejo Model Color paints. They airbrushed well for me thinned with a little distilled water or the Vallejo dilutant they make. They sell Vallejo at the local Hobby Lobby. I’m not sure if all HL stores carry Vallejo or not.

Finally, there’s another person here who uses VMC paints through an airbrush. I’ve been feeling lonely since nobody else seems to do it, haha. How many layers did you put on and what PSI did you use?

I’ve been experimenting with creating the right mix of thinner that will allow them to airbrush properly, keep the paints suspended long enough in the medium to prevent from falling to the bottom (thus causing the AB to sputter occasionally), dry fast enough to allow additional coats, and give it a bit of extra strength once dried. So far, I may have gotten a step closer with my 50/50 mix of distilled water and Future floor polish with several drops of ammonia-free Windex added. Ratio is 25% paint, 75% thinner.

I probably ended up doing 2-3 layers, maybe 4. I think I found around 20 PSI to be the best. I have been thinning it at about a 50/50 or 60 thinner/40 Paint ratio. I’ve used windex and distilled water mainly. I spray down in the basement where it’s a little cooler and has slightly more humidity. This may help the paint from not drying too fast but that’s just speculation. I did try the Vallejo thinner they call dilutant. I’m not sure if it worked any better than water as there was no noticeable difference. I probably wouldn’t buy it again as cheaper thinners seem to work just as well.
That’s a good idea to have the Future Floor Polish in the thinner mix, I’ll have to try that. Does it add any durability? I’m guessing it gives the paint a glossy finish. Vallejo Airbrushed very nice and smooth when I’ve used it. It has a nice matte finish but I top coated it with Future to give it some gloss and durability. My only gripe is the durability. It seemed to scratch easily with 2-3 days to cure so I really had to give it a clear coat. I’ll have to play around with primer and thinning a little more as well. I’ll definately use them again. They work well for hand brushing also.

Yeah, I do three to four layers too. Tacky first layer, then more coverage until the color is solid.

On my experiment yesterday, I used maybe 17 PSI (hard to tell on my compressor since the needle hovered between 10 and 20) and it worked well with no needle clog. My test piece was a spoon that had a medium coating of Vallejo grey primer. Sprayed the scoop part (using Dark Prussian Blue), which wasn’t primed, and to my amazement, I was able to coat it smoothly without a single occurrence of paint sagging. That has to be promising, right?

Adding Future floor polish does add durability and speeds up the drying time considerably. A prior test piece I painted using just the 50/50 mix of distilled water and Future only was dry to the touch and rather resistant to scratching. Ran my finger nail on it like I was scratching a minor itch and no paint came off. This was 24 hours after I painted it and it does add some gloss to it. Only problem is that the pigments are still heavy so it requires frequent agitation in the paint cup. My next test is to use Liquitex Airbrushing Medium instead of distilled water to see if maybe that will help in keeping the pigments up.

With primer, you should be able to increase the durability of the paint job. Letting it cure for a week or so can help as well. I’m going to check out my test pieces when I get home today subject them to the scratch test. Crossing my fingers…

Brave Raideen
1/400 Scale
Bandai Kit No. 31

I finally finished this little guy. I had to glue him together, this wasn’t a snap together model. It was fun although a challenge to do some of the painting. I airbrushed and hand painted using Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. I had to do most of it by hand since it’s pretty small. I figured since Raideen was Yoshiyuki Tomino’s first mecha anime it would be OK to post. I wish I could find a model of the Bluegar. I also have a BANDAI 2002 MC Mechacolle Raideen kit I need to build. It’s cool because it tranforms into the God bird.

Paint job looks good. It does seem a bit thick in certain areas (like the white on the legs and blue on the chest), but that may be just a pic thing. Personally, I think the thicker paint appearance matches the figure.

Yeah, it doesn’t look bad except one of the legs does have some thick areas. I made the mistake of trying to hand brush the white part on one of the legs with Tamiya acrylic. I knew it was a bad idea but i stupidly did it. I peeled off and sanded most of it and repainted but there are still a few thick spots. I had to sand and repaint parts of the legs about 3 times because I kept damaging the paint job while handling to paint other parts of the leg. If I did it again I would go about painting it differently. Overall I’m happy with it and learned from some mistakes.

Ouch, yeah, I know how difficult it is to paint white, especially with Tamiya. Tried it before on that white section on the HG Qan[T]'s shield and I never got it right after several tries. Ended up using the sticker.

As long as you’re happy and got some learning from it, then all is well and good. Can’t wait to see your next completed work.

MG 2.0
I airbrushed Mr. Color Metal Dark Iron on the Internal frame and hand painted some details with Vallejo MC. I went over it with a matte clearcote. All the externals I did airbrushing Mr. Color paints to the mix ratio listed in the instructions. My experience with Mr. Color is that it is really good paint, I wish I could get it locally. I used the Bandai 2.0 waterslide decals. I still need to do a tiny bit of panel lining and a gloss topcoat on the outer frame. I’m pretty happy with how he came out and can’t wait to pose some battle scenes with the Zaku. This kit was fun to put together and I only have a couple issues with it. The legs tend to fall out of the top peg at the waist sometimes. The core fighter isn’t so bad until you attach the nose/cockpit section to the mid section. It takes a bit of work to snap a tiny piece into place during assembly. I also did a couple SD RX-78s that I will post after I get the final touches complete.

Here are some more pics of the RX-78-2

That’s a good paint job and I’m jealous you get to use Mr. Color paints. They’re a mainstay brand so I’m not surprised they were easy to work with. I’m surprised you stayed with acrylics for handpainting details, though.

The issue you’re having with the Core Fighter reminds me of a very similar issue with my Sword Impulse. If I try to detach the backpack, the whole lower torso disconnects each time.

Thanks! Yeah, next time I might use enamel for the details. Vallejo acrylics hand brush pretty well but I think enamel looks and covers better.