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  1. #1
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    Orange Psycho Frame + Clear Red?

    Ok guys. I need some expert help from our resident customizer/painters. I'm wanting to do a "Original Custom" paint job on the MG Banshee once I get it. I've pretty much gotten all the colors picked out except for the Psycho Frame. I know it comes in clear orange parts. My biggest question is this. If was to apply a thin coat of clear red paint over it, would it still retain some of its orange tint? Giving it an orangish red color. As if it was burning. I want to do something different with the Psycho parts but I don't want to do them in gold. Which seems to be a common thing. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks guys.

  2. #2
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    You could give them a wash, the Baal Red wash from citadel would be perfect.
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  3. #3
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    If the clear red coating is light enough, yes, it will be an orangey red. Try it out on a flat bit of the runner first (where the name of the kit is printed on runner works great for this) and see if you can get the look you want. Are you airbrushing or hand brushing?
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
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  4. #4
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    Mostly likely will be hand brushing. I can't really can't afford an airbrush at the moment. I know they don't cost a whole lot but I also don't have a lot of money to spare either.

  5. #5
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    Believe me, I getchya on funding. What kind of paint are you using?
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
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  6. #6
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    Well, Testors is really the only paint that is readily available to me. Perks of living in hillbilly town. As for Enamel or Acrylic, I'm really not sure to be honest. I've never really done much painting. I didn't plan on doing any primering cause I'll be using blacks and dark gunmetals. So I'm going to go and do some quick reading about the forum and see if I can find anything of use. Fill free to give opinions. I need all the help I can get.

    Oh, I'll be using spray paint for everything except the Psycho Frame. Havn't found any clear red in a spray can.

  7. #7
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    Testors is what I use. I have seen clear red in spray form from Testors as an enamel. But if you are doing it by hand, the only clear red they make is acrylic. You'll want to shake that bottle up really good and then put some in a mixing tray (just a bit at a time, don't waste it) and thin it with 100% rubbing alcohol just a bit, I've tried to thin it with water but I just couldn't figure out the ratios. Anyway, thin layers at a time will yield the best results for clears. That way you can control how red you want it to get.

    As far as the other paint, you should be fine without primer. If you are wanting a metallic look the new Testors one coat lacquers are AWESOME! if not, their enamels are great too. Just be sure to keep your can a good 8 inches from the parts and spray across your entire working area in quick clean sweeps, starting before the part and ending after you have passed it. I usually do two or three passes and then see if I need to tilt the piece or change my angle to get better coverage in a certain area. If I do, I only do one or two quick passes to avoid paint build up.

    If you are too close to the work, you may see your paint bubble up. That can also happen if you tilt the can and get air in the line. Good luck!
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
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  8. #8
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    Thank you for your insight Joe. This is really helpful. I was planning on using a Semi-Gloss black for the main body. And a flat black for the feet and backpack. Then a gun-metal for the gray joints. Then of course the clear red for the Psycho Frame. I saw Prime92s "custom" Banshee. And after seeing his super glossy paint job. I pretty much decided to never use a gloss paint on a Gundam.

    One of my biggest concerns about all this. Is the transformation aspect. I'm worried that the addition of the paint will make transforming it impossible. I don't plan on doing the transformation often. Maybe once or twice. But I'm worried that the paint will make those times difficult or possible scratch the paint.

  9. #9
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    Prime92 is actually a she, fun fact I know, throws me off every time I listen to her and remember that. I have to say, she was bold with that purple color scheme. I actually kind of liked it. Being objective about the Banshee, it looked decent. Subjectively, I would never paint one of my kits with such ostentatious pallet choices...

    Anyway, I wouldn't be too worried about the transformation being difficult if you keep your coats of paint thin. It might scratch the paint, however. Enamel paint is pretty tough. Honestly, I would be more worried about the oils on your hands rubbing off the paint. Give it a good topcoat and that should take care of it.
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
    -Joe
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  10. #10
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    I honestly keep forgetting Prime92 is a she. Like you it throws me for a loop every time I watch one of her videos. Her Custom Painted HG Banshee "Purple Rain" looks great. I really like it. Her MG Unicorn converted Banshee on the other hand. That's a different story I'm afraid.

    Anyways. That was going to be my next question. Topcoat. What would you suggest on that. And I've often wondered. Do you apply decals, dry transfers, and water slides before or after topcoat? My intuition would say before so that the topcoat would keep them in place and protected. But I'm a total noob when it comes to this so I'm not sure. lol

  11. #11
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    Well, your intuition is correct, the final top coat is always that; final. Some people will actually apply two topcoats. After painting, if you want to use water slide decals or other various markings, a lot of the pros will lay down a good gloss coat so the decal will lay flat and smooth, then apply a dull or flat coat after the decals are on. I personally don't do this.

    I use a product I got from my local hobby shop called WALTHER'S SOLVASET Decal Setting Solution. It's a thin liquid that is applied to make decals "snuggle down into every crevice" or so the bottle's label suggests. Most decal setting solutions you apply to the model before the decal goes on. This sucks the decal onto the model as it evaporates. Decal softer solutions are applied over the top of the decal after it is applied and it sort of melts the decal onto the plastic making it conform to the shape of the part. The SOLVASET does both, so I apply it under and over decals to make them stick to any surface.

    This stuff really helps when applying decals to a flat paint because a flat paint has a rough texture to it. All the little tiny dimples in the paint that break up the surface so it doesn't shine traps tiny little air pockets under decals causing them to look silvery. So I use the SOLVASET and I don't have that issue. Case in point: I have been working on a MG Sinanju over the past few months off and on as a side project. This particular Sinanju has, well let's just say *COUGH*TT HONGLI*COUGH* less than perfectly smooth plastic. It's got a rough unfinished texture to it giving it a dull/flat look. I used the waterslide decals and SOLVASET for all of the gold trim and it's like the decals were printed directly on the plastic. Good stuff.

    I top coated all of the black parts with Testors One Coat Lacquer "Wet Look" twice and it's nice and shiny smooth and the decals are protected.
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
    -Joe
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    Recently Completed: MG Guntank.

  12. #12
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    Joe, you are a fountain of information and I am soaking all that I can up. You are a big help and I hope that I can put all of your advice to use when I finally purchase my MG Banshee. Which, I plan on getting after I acquire the MG RX178 Mk. II Titans.

  13. #13
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    Well, there has been a slight change of plans. After watching a couple reviews of the MG RX-0 Banshee, and the HGUC versions. I've decided to go with the HGUC version instead. I still plan on using the same paint scheme, just on a smaller scale.

    The reason for this is the MG seems to have some issues that I know for a fact would bug me. The paint could overcome the weakness in certain joints. But that is all up to chance. Plus the HG Destroy Mode comes with all the parts to make the Novel Version along with the shield, and Beam Magnum. Where as the MG doesn't have the Magnum. So, I've chosen the HGs to be my 1st every custom paint job.

    Of coarse I'll be painting the "Unicorn" mode 1st. :P

  14. #14
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    Awesome dude! Yeah, you gotta build what you know you will enjoy. No point in spending so much money on a Master Grade if it's not exactly what you want, right? The HG's are awesome! I have to say that I really don't like that the psycho frame was molded in a solid mustardy gold, but that is what paint is for. I've seen some pretty cool shot of the psycho frame painted in bright florescent orange and then clear red airbrushed just along edges, looks very cool. I'm thinking bright orange, then a strong gloss coat, and then an enamel wash with red would yield pretty decent results as well.
    Until Next Time: Happy Building!
    -Joe
    Joe's Gunpla Blog
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    Currently in progress: MG Nu Ver Ka, RG Justice, Other stuff...
    Recently Completed: MG Guntank.

  15. #15
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    Yeah, I'm not big on that gold color either. So I'm for sure wanting to upgrade that. I'm hoping that I can do a good job. Plus I have also decided to add the HGUC Sinanju to my "to buy" list. I figure I'll have both Unicorns and both Banshees why not have the Sinanju to go along with them.


 

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