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  1. #61
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    Feb 2018
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    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Making some progress here. Final Fantasy Dissidia NT has kinda been getting my attention again so I haven't worked as hard on this as I should have. The shoulders are slowly filling. I think one more putty round will do the trick. For the backpack I am planning to cut the beam saber mounts and run a small dowel through it, pinning it tp bith cannons. The hot know made them messy so this week I'll be sanding and cleaning them up with plaplate. I have an idea on how to do the Mudrocks famous cannon-saber mounts. Stay tuned!


  2. #62
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I've been going through alot of trial and error on this build. Alot of things are going.... poorly. Even though I measure 3 times holes for pinning parts somehow magicly morph into different spots.

    I have beam saber mounts mostly done. Kinda wishing I had thought this far ahead and put a polycap in the cannons so they'd be poseable. Oh well. Currently I am using old runners 90 corners for it. I figure I'll putty it in when all is said and done.

    I suppose you never learn without failure, but the amounts of failed trys I'm having is pretty discouraging considering how quickly other peoples mods come through and work wonderfully.

    Edit: adding pics
    Here is a few photos of the beam saber holders that I am working on. The first option needs to be trimmed down but I think it'll work after I glue all the pins. Option 2 is easier but I think looks uglier.

    Last edited by Vile; June 19, 2018 at 7:48 PM.

  3. #63
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2018
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    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    So it's been awhile. I lost my job after being setup by my boss, and shortly after my AB broke. It has an air leak and is constantly shooting air out of the front. I've deduced this is a valve issue but can't seem to fix it. If I try and AB now I get alot of nasty spackles. So I've been unmotivated to gunpla because apparently I constantly these damn Neo for Iwata AB's. I follow cleaning guides and how to use guides and always seem to ruin them. I want to get an Iwata Eclipse but if I can't keep this Neo working, why by something twice the cost? It's a real downer.

    But I am working again, in a much more professional environment. I was at a small financing collection company, now I'm at a well respected bank and the difference is night and day.


    I've finally started to work on the Mudrock some more, and even seamlined, sanded, a Zaku I which I ready to prime..... I just need an AB now, and I'm really defeated on picking up another. I feel like this hobby is becoming a waste for me because
    A) I kinda suck at it.
    B) I can't keep a brush working for more than a year.


    Here's a pic of what I've done so far. I had to completely remake the skirt compatible with the waist unit. Added in some cubes on him. Managed to get the beam saber holders to work properly, and in fact I have a pan to make them a bit better here soon.

  4. #64
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
    Posts
    304

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Hey, sorry to hear of your problems, Hang in there.

    With the Air Brush, get a cheap ebay .2 to .5 and polish the needles. You can get them dirt cheap and so long as you polish up the needles with some autosol or equivalent, being careful not to bend them, you will end up with a great little backup A/B setup. Also the valves and bits are quite often interchangeable on the more expensive brushes so you always have a good set of emergency spares.

    You don't suck at it either. We all have those times where things stack up and get us down with it. Push through because the times it comes together you will feel good about it and that will be just as often if not more than the times that frustrate ya.

    Mark

  5. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Stuck behind a damn desk now, finally off the road!!
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    4,414

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I polish all of my needles no matter what size or who makes them. Here is a quick and easy guide to a fast polish. I add a few more steps to mine but this is the method I use.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJhiixH1Kq4

    As for the air leak and the spitting and clumping. I had the same problem with my Badger. Just where exactly is the air leak coming from? Mine would leak out of what I thought was the front but it was actually the side. I have a NEO as well and I really like it. I only use it for primers and big jobs because it is not a gravity feed, but it had a leak issue as well and I was able to fix it with Beeswax and an AB cleaning scraping tool.

    If you could post a picture of the AB and drop soapy water over it then add air but don't pull the needle back just let air out and see if or where you get bubbles and take a picture of it. Hopefully it is the same type of problem I had.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also going from a NEO to an Eclipse or the HI line is sort of like going from VW Bug to a Ferrari. The NEO while it is a good AB, it is the base line introduction model. It really can't hold up against the higher end ABs from Iwata.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/

  6. #66
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
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    304

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Oh meant to mention.... Bees wax rolled really thin and then wrapped on the stop of the threads and then once it's all assembled heat the tip is a great way of sealing any small air leaks. The fiber and rubber seals do perish fairly fast.

    another good A/B tutorial for making a cheap A/B work well

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkqCwc5-tbA

  7. #67
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I don't have to have the needle in. The moment the air valve is connected to the brush the airflow starts. I don't even have the trigger in and it goes. The needle only forces the air to have more concentrated flow.

    Perhaps I am not describing the problem correctly. Assembled once I turn on the compressor air flows from the nozzle of my brush. No paint, just airflow constantly.

  8. #68
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
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    304

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    ahhh, you need to pull the valve where the hose connects and apply a small amount of Vaseline to the pin in the airbrush that drives the valve, it has dried out and got stuck on the small o ring. I usually use a tooth pick and push the valve up, apply the smallest amount of grease, then push it the other way and do the same, then push it back and forth a few time and wipe it out with a tissue to get rid of excess grease. If you don't have Vaseline, plumbers white tap washer grease works fine.

    This should fix it fairly common problem.

  9. #69
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2018
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    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I have been greasing the valve. It's part of my cleaning process. I took some pics with soapy water. Rather than image dump, here is the folder via imgur.
    https://imgur.com/a/K9HWOqg

    Take note the air comes from the hole under the nose.

  10. #70
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2016
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    Adelaide, Australia
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I'd suggest it's definitely the valve leaking, there should be no air coming out of the assembly as you have it in the last 3 pics? Air should only flow if you depress the brass pin. Can you pull the hose unscrew the retainer and push the brass pin out and clean up the barrel, there may be some crud in there preventing the valve from closing or the oring is stuffed.

    See pic, Oring circled in red
    Attached Images

  11. #71
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    143

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I never knew you could get into that part. It is shooting air now properly. I'll polish my needle and try to prime the Zaku. I picked up some Tamiya Lacquer thinner which the hobby shop guy said should work well and thinn the jar of Mr Surfacer 1000 I have.
    Last edited by Vile; September 18, 2018 at 11:56 PM.

  12. #72
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    Sep 2016
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    Adelaide, Australia
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Cool, hopefully it will behave for ya now. Lacquer thinner should work with the Mr Surfacer.

  13. #73
    Senior Member
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    Dec 2013
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    Stuck behind a damn desk now, finally off the road!!
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Well this is a good turn of events. But you still might want to apply bees wax to the front nozzle that will keep any air from leaking out up by the tip. The Taymia thinner is great for use in paints but just use the cheap crap from Loews for cleaning. Taymia is to expensive for that. Glad you got the answers needed to save your AB and the hobby.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/


 

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