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  1. #46
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Doing more on the dio. It's not looking that good.... i really need a gopd tutorial or someone like.... the guy doing the z'gok dio to give me some pointers.



  2. #47
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I can help you a bit, I'm by no means an expert. But I have a few bases built. To start your covering. I looked back and I saw that you used the strips to form the bottom of the base. Then you painted ontop of that. Well you started out great, but after you put doun the strips as a foundation the next thing to do is to go back over it with filler I use sculpt a mold.
    Sculptamold_41821C_2011.jpg

    This will fill in the strip marks. You can also use plaster of Paris, or a verity of different plasters. this will smooth out the "ground" and you can add texture to the ground at that point if you want to. So far that is all I can see to give as advice for right now. BTW I picked up a bucket of Plaster of Paris at Michael's really cheap.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/

  3. #48
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Gotcha. I had always thought it wad casting tape/plaster than just paper mache. Thanks for the tip!

  4. #49
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    For my "Moon" crater after I had the foam base laid out. Then I used the sculpt a mold, but I used my hands and patted it down and left it kind of rough. This gave it a nice rough and potted look to it. For my "crater" I actually just used a tennis ball and formed the sculpt a mold up its sides a bit and then lifted the ball straight up. This gave a smooth, yet uneven and a bit rough edge to the crater. All the little furry hairs on the ball grabbed the plaster stuff and gave it texture. So it almost looks like it has been weathered, or at least has been there for a long time. then I used my plaster and made rocks from a rock mold and placed them around while the sculpting stuff was wet. Then I built up one side of the rocks so it looks like "solor winds" moved Moon dust and what not across the surface and the leading edge of the rocks had a small build up of debris. Let it all dry and then a bunch of different washes and good to go.

    The only issue I had was the wood base I was using. It got wet and warped so the whole thing cracked into 3 parts. But I just filled in the bottom of the cracks and made it part of the diorama. A cracked Moon surface.

    I would link the pictures, but F**K photo bucket. I will look for them when I get to thew house. I know I have them on my other phone, so I know I have them.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/

  5. #50
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Nice I appriciate the input. It's a little late to redo this base.

    I'm not surev wgat to do next. I have a decent backlog

    Gyan Krieger HG
    Mg Mudrock Conversion
    Mg Hi-Mo Gyan conversion
    Origin Zaku 1 HG
    And I was cleaning the garage and found 3 kits I had intended to bash to make 'Perfect Angle' the 3 orsnge 00 gundams. Kyrios, Arios, Harute.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So I noticed an issue with the gm custom today. His chest looks like the paint is chipping on the edges. I'm not really sure how this happened, I waited 24ish hours before painting coat after coat and the only enemal paint I used was for panel lining. Any thoughts? Monkey, Squee, you guys are both damn near pros.



  6. #51
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    Cleveland, OH, USA
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    It's interesting the cracking is almost in the same place. Its it the paint? Or could it be the underlying plastic? It looks almost like the paint is pulling away from the part after the part shrank.

  7. #52
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    It could be that your vents are in to tight, due to too much paint in the connection space, causing it to put stress on the part. Sometimes that happens with enamels.

    All those close ups, you should really put a little more effort into the prep work. The nub marks, like on the knees could have easily been removed with more sanding before paint.

    Also, STOP BITING YOUR NAILS! lol


    https://www.facebook.com/Squeesworkbench

    I am no longer a Moderator despite what the user title says. Please do NOT pm me with questions on how to do something hobby related or with issues with the board. Just ask in a related thread.

  8. #53
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Yeah I missed a few on the ol GM. As i said he was kind of a crap test unit I wasn't planning to care about. He'll get scuffed up pmaying skirmish for sure.

    But just you wait sensei Squee! My next project will make you proud!

    - - - Updated - - -

    So I am begining to wonder what I'm doing wrong. Apperently after i upload a photo it looses quality but whatever.

    So I'm working on seamlines and nubs on this kit and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I sanded down the nubs from 600 grit progressing to 12000. Same with the seam lines. For the seams, I used tamiya thin cement, the stuff in the square bottle with the green lid-brush combo. Then i held it together with a binderclip for a few hours. Sanded down the glue that escsped and here we are.

    Are these parts just lighter from stress? Or was the thin celemt hot enough that it made a lighter tone after melting some of the plastic to fuse it? The parts are extremely glossy, and i can't feel any snags at all running my fingers across it. Do they sometimes just have a lighter spot before primer?




  9. #54
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    That sounds pretty normal. The solvents that fuse the plastic together actually melt the plastics chemically, rather than through heat, but that chemical reaction doesn't always play nice with the pigments used to dye the plastic. The line is something that I've seen on most of my solvent welded parts, and it vanishes after priming (assuming you sand it smooth).

  10. #55
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    My workstation has been compromised by the lady the last few weeks, but she isn't coming back for 2 so her bearguy is going on hold!

    The gyan krieger is getting it's basecoat this week, and I am now just waiting on the FA7th gundam for my kitbash and a new compressor and AB.

    The kitbash, is a 144 Mudrock. Special thanks to Scorn for hooking my up with NT-1 parts. I may order a Ng Duel gundam for backpack though. Space the cannons some and have a more accurate look.


  11. #56
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Happy to help! Looking forward to the progress on this one

  12. #57
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    Feb 2018
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    So I ran into a snag i wasn't expecting. I guess FA 7th Gundam is newer than I assumed. It has the revive style arms. So, I have to do some modding.

    Attempted number one was a failure. I tried to cit off the peg from the NT-1's shoulder socket and drill a hole for the new arms peg to fit. It didn't end up being wide enough. So now I'm moving on to 2 other ideas.

    The first one i thought up will likely be a last resort. This one is trimming down the PC Sockets for the arms and placing them just right with a spacer between them to hold em in place when I put the arms in, inside the torso. Some plastic removal will be needed inside the chest too. Doing it this way limites my shoulder selection however.

    Idea 2, associated with the image below, is to take the shoulder connection from the powered GM, remove the peg it has, and drill into it placing a PC part inside it. The 7th armor gundam peg would have to be trmmed as well, but this method SHOULD keep the articulation. My only issue is sturdiness. I have a bad history of my scratch build parts being fragile.


    I cropped the Powered Gm's shoulder part in the upper corner there. Rest is 7th Gundam.

    Here is a quick kinda bad sketch I did while at work showing what I want to do.
    Last edited by Vile; May 19, 2018 at 11:17 AM.

  13. #58

    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Man I really hope you can nail the Mudrock (I hope even more for an RG Mudrock lol). Your plans look good imo and I wish you supreme luck. The Mudrock is on my custom list as well but I lack the skill to create one that does the design justice.

  14. #59
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    Thanks!

    I was out of town for the weekend but I did some sunday night mods. The poly cap idea worked..... kinda. The arms kept coming in crooked. It's due to the polycaps mold so I'm switching up. Below is the crooked arms (that i didn't cut in case they didn't worj) and the new look. I am unsure which set of shoulders to use. If I use the RX78's I'll need to build off of them, if I stick with7TH Gundam's I'll need to remove the heavyarms like lines.



  15. #60
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    Re: Vile's Project Room

    I would go with the 7th it is already built up and just a bit of body filler in two spots is easier than a full on scratch built shoulder.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/


 

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