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  1. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    18

    Re: My Gundam Experience; from Miniatures to Gunpla!

    hahaha that was my original plan, but the colors turned out to be too glossy and bright. i think he looks more like optimus prime from the transformers movie.

  2. #17
    I like the paint job, very accurate. And the color scheme is nice


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  3. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by AzraelGundam View Post
    Hi DLinker, yes i do prime my kits using Vallejo Surface Primer. From my experience, you really need to wash the kit before applying the primer; and I always need to put on two coats. I guess its just the size of the kit plus probably the mould release used for gunpla is stronger(??). For my miniatures I usually dont wash them and just prime using a brush.

    - - - Updated - - -

    II. Supplies and Equipment

    1. Paintbrushes
    You're going to need a bigger set of paint brushes to account for the size of each individual component you'll be painting. You'll also want a good mix of round and flat brushes. Flat brushes are mainly for base-coating and dry brushing. Round brushes I use for more to get to those "hard-to-reach" areas.

    You'll want bigger or wider brushes so that you'll be able to cover more surface area when painting. The more area you can cover with one stroke of the brush, the better. This lessens the brush marks you'll leave when you use smaller brushes, plus it just saves time painting

    2. Nail Brush
    This is the brush a manicurist would use. I use this to clean the model from time to time since dust and other small particles may settle on the part. It is especially important to clean your Gundam part before painting to make sure its clean. Any residue or dust that gets painted on, will leave your kit with a rough looking surface. For miniatures its not really a problem, but because again of the size of the kit, it becomes much more conspicuous on Gunpla.

    3. Alligator Clippers / Bamboo Stick
    I use this to clip on parts so I can paint it without actually holding the part. For miniatures its easier because you are painting the whole model, just stick it to a base and you can paint away. For Gunpla kits, we need to paint them separately. Its also a good way to hold the part while its drying.

    - - - Updated - - -

    III. Approach and Techniques

    1. Thin your paints less
    I know the mantra has always been to thin your paints, its actually no different when painting Gunpla except you'll need to adjust your ratios and thin your paints less. It's always advisable to thin your paints (as they say to a milk-like consistency) for the following reasons:

    a. Allows the paint to flow off the brush much better
    b. Transparent layers will not obscure detail

    Unless of course you're doing some technical work like blending or free-handing, there's a problem here when you apply thinned paint on the Gunpla model.

    a. Thinner paint = Transparent Layers = More Layers to get a good hue. Again, the size of the kit affects how we paint it. The bigger the area, the more layers you'll need to apply, to longer it will take to paint the kit.

    b. Thinner paint does not obscure detail. But because of the size of the kit, applying 2-3 slightly thicker layers will not actually obscure or cover the details in the kit. Also, gunpla itself does not have a lot of details, except for the panel lines and some rivets.

    c. Thinner paint = Less control. The thin paint can actually overrun if you're not careful with how much you load on to the brush.

    Slightly thicker paint will address these issues as follows:

    a. Less number of layers required to get a good hue

    b. Will not cover a lot of the detail since the details in the gunpla are quite sizable compared to miniatures. Also, most part surfaces are just smooth panels, so there's not much detail to cover

    c. More control since its easier to see how much paint is loaded and it wont easily flood or overrun

    2. Sub-Assemblies
    Even though its advisable to paint each part separately, you can assemble certain components and paint them together. For example, I assemble the inner frame and paint it as a whole for my Graze Ritter.

    I also attached the antenna on to the head and paint them together. I cant really give you some hard rules, you'll just have to eye-ball which components can be assembled and painted together.

    3. Parts Handling
    After painting each part, be sure to set them aside carefully; for example putting them back in the kit's box. DO NOT ASSEMBLE the kit before you finished painting all the parts.

    The Gundam Kit is designed to be easily disassembled, hence a lot of modular joints. My experience with the Hyakuren, was, everytime I finished a section I'd assemble it to see how it looks. I've had too many times when I accidentally dropped a part thus damaging or chipping the paint, when i started disassembling it.

    What I try to do now is to lay the parts on the table roughly in their assembled states but not actually joining the parts. This way I dont risk dropping the part, also I minimize the risk of accidentally rubbing the paint off with my fingers when I start assembling it.
    Yeah, I learned that last bit the hard way, about joining them together after painting. I scratched slot of paint of the joints and revealed some of the primer underneath the paint. Kinda looks like battle damage though, so Iím ok with it . 😜


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