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  1. #1
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    Airbrush help - Primer Question / Paint types allowed - Newbie questions

    Hey guys... so I'm not totally new at this... But I am when it comes to airbrushing.

    These are the types of paints I have:

    Primers: Model Master Acrylic
    Acrylic Paints: Citadel
    Airbrush paints: Createx

    Look at attached picture below for example -




    Basically I'm not sure if the guy at my shop is lying to me or not. I wanted to use my airbrush that I just bought, and to thin out the paints I was planning on just adding water since they are water based paints.... however the guy told me If going to spray MODEL MASTER ACRYL Primer through my airbrush, that I need to apply MODEL MASTER THINNER.... which seemed wrong to me....

    can anyone confirm what I can/should use as thinner with these paints for my airbrush?
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Administrator
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    He's just trying to sell you something. I have very limited experience with using an airbrush, but I always thinned my Model Masters stuff with distilled water and it worked fine.

  3. #3
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    Model master thinner is for enamel. Honestly, if you're unsure, take a few drop of your primer, and mix it with water, NOT IN YOUR AIRBRUSH, and see how it mixes. If it clumps up, you have enamel primer. IF it mixes, you're good. Honestly though, i'd use windex or isopropyl alcohol for the Model masters if its acrylic. Do some tests if you're unsure. If it's enamel based, you can buy mineral spirits from a hardware store, like 20x's the amount of the hobby stuff for the same price. Or you can use lighter fluid to thin it. Again, this is if the water doesn't mix with it.

    The creatix can be mixed w/ water definitely. As for the citadel... if you're going to airbrush it, do some research. I've heard good things, and i've heard bad things about airbrushing it. You need to get the thin ratio just right.

    The paints you're using aren't the strongest so definitely get a good topcoat to go over them as they scratch easily. If you want to go a cheap but AWESOME route, get Future floor finish/wax/whatever. It's labeled differently in different areas. One bottle will last you for a LONG time. One coat will give you a semigloss finish, more will make it shinier. If you want a flat coat, buy some flat additive.

    Bottle looks something like this:

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the reply

  5. #5
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    Annoying, I typed up a lengthy response but it got eaten up for I clicked "reply to thread" instead of "Quick Reply" ....annoying.


    Anyways, because what I said was... many thanks,
    I will experiment with Iso and Water with model Masters..
    as well as the others.

    How common is airbrushing Primer?

    When I first got into Gundam, all I used was Testor's Enamel paints...
    I never really had a problem with them. I really liked how the glossy paints would spread as well.
    I'm not sure what all the pros and cons are... but the reason why I've decided to switch to water based was mainly because I heard Enamel was very difficult to airbrush with....also, on my old forum all the best models seemed to be done with water based paints...
    It'll be an adventure I guess... not too sure if I made the right decision to switch to water based, I guess I'll find out.

    Some kid at a Games Workshop one day was like "ENAMEL PAINT ON WARHAMMER? NEVER~!!!! IT CAN MELT THE PLASTIC AND RUIN YOUR FIGURE!" ...I rolled my eyes at him and thought he was a paranoid idiot who has been conned into buying over-priced paints... but I guess it was noteworthy.

    Anyways... thanks for the help.

    I just finished building my first PG (the outside frame at least... I plan on fully painting the frame giving it a realistic metal look before I paint each outside shell piece)

    I'm really trying to make my models look the best they can, and I don't care how painful the process will be.
    I'm using these models now for a stop motion/live action movie - Wish me luck.

  6. #6
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    It really depends. I've NEVER had a problem with enamel. Except from a spraypaint can. The thinners in cans tend to be alot more harsh than model thinners. Honestly, the only time i really use my enamels anymore at this point is when i'm doing a panel wash, i don't have a color i need, or if i'm using all of the gloss black bottles i have as a base paint for alclad metallics. I've been slowly switching to lacquers, and they really are the best paints for gunpla imo. Acrylics scratch to easily, which is fine for static kits, like military and figures like warhammer, but if you're going to be posing your builds alot, lacquers really are the toughest stuff.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Here's a good website for good information on the types of paints available for Gunpla painting.

    http://codyscoop.com/ht-paint.html


    Good luck with the Stop Motion/ Live Action Movie.


 

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