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  1. #616
    Junior Member
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    Sep 2017
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    Texas
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    17

    Re: A bit about myself and first project

    Well, since no one ever answered my final question here on Gundam Forums, I went to another source. Someone on DeviantArt answered all of my questions, including saying that Green Stuff should be safe on Gundam Models. So unless someone here wishes to say otherwise, I'm going with his opinion, and go get some Green Stuff. Thank you all for helping me out, I will forward the results in the near future.

  2. #617
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    1

    Question What's my best way to proceed?

    So I'm new to the forum the forum but not gunpla and I'm lucky enough to live within walking distance from quite the Gundam store, I've been trying to step up my modeling game. I'm planning a Gelgoog 2.0 build and to prepare and try some stuff I picked a Zaku I Sniper to try the scheme but first I'm trying my hand at gap filling but should I assemble some parts and mask the joints and polycaps and paint in sub assemblies or paint it all in pieces but then how would I fill the gaps?

    Thanks for any help

  3. #618
    So the way that I normally handle this is by modifying the parts. So if I can get the piece to fit by modifying a peg or something I will and mask off the parts that I can't remove. I use either putty or glue depending on the thickness of the gap. Glue on the right putty on the left. I have not finished sanding or painting just a comparison. I think this is what you are asking about. If not please disregard.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #619
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Stuck behind a damn desk now, finally off the road!!
    Posts
    4,401

    Re: What's my best way to proceed?

    If I understand your question correctly. You would have to fill in all gaps before you paint. Gap filling will take sanding and if you did it after painting you would sand a lot of the paint off. I normally fully assemble each part fill with putty or glue like Gunpla_evolved did. I would have the "Knee" joint in place if it was part of the leg assembly and mask it off and paint. Most legs and arms come in 2 parts an upper and a lower section. I paint them both separately.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/

  5. #620
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    California base.
    Posts
    1,192

    Re: What's my best way to proceed?

    Everyone does it differently. You need to try multiple methods to fin the one that suits you. Personally I like to do a straight assemble so I can see how things go together. Then mod parts to I can wait them and reassemble the kit. For example if the knee join mounts in the thigh and the thigh has a seam. I mod the thigh and knee joint so I can reassemble it once I remove the seam line and it's painted. Then I glue the thigh and and sand it. If I need putty I miss tamiya putty with Mr hobby lacquer thinner and brush it on the low spot. Then I resand and shoot a light coat of primer on it so I can see an other defects that I missed. I reputty, sand and reprimer until I fixed all of the defects.

    Thanks honest I'd you sand the entire kit you will see all the defects which will make it that much easier to fix.

  6. #621
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Ringgold, GA, United States
    Posts
    19

    New to Gunpla and Got a few questions

    Hello all! First post here!

    So I have just built my first Gunpla Kit. I chose the Gundam Barbatos Lupus 1/100 Full Mechanics set and honestly I am addicted! I have just ordered two more kits The 1/144 IBO HG Shidden and the 1/144 IBO HG Helmwige. I have some questions about the panel lining. When I built Barbatos I ordered the IBO Gundam Marker set and it came with a standard (not fine tip) panel liner. MAN! That thing was near useless and the panel lining on my Barbatos turned out sub par at best. I have since ordered and received the fine tip grey and black markers and was wondering how to remove/clean up the old panel lines since they have cured for a few weeks and have become really difficult to remove. If I cant remove them without a ton of work it is ok because I will just use this kit to try my hand at custom painting in a few weeks. However, since this is my first kit I dont want to ruin it as a test run for hand painting. Is there an easy way to clean up previously panel lined parts so I can red0 it? Also Is there a neon green fine tip liner I could potentially get to get rid of the ugly green stickers on the knees? Like I said im new to the craft so I was just wanting some input from more experienced people. Pictures below!



    Barbatos Lupus 1.jpgBarbatos Lupus 2.jpgBarbatos Lupus 3.jpgBarbatos Lupus 4.jpg

  7. #622
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    209

    Re: New to Gunpla and Got a few questions

    I'm new too but wouldn't you just need some thinner and cloth to clean it up?

  8. #623
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    209

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Hey, Are Nippers really needed? I got my list of stuff to pick up and the Nippers seem to be one of the most expensive yet I really dont see the benefit of them...

    The ones used for Gunpla especially, as they are very thin and sharp to be able to cut really close to the part with out pinching. But looking at the angle of the blades. They seem to wear out rather fast. And the only thing they are really used for is to remove the parts from the runner.

    Wouldn't a normal $2.00 wire cutter from Wal-Mart or Part store do just aswell? You could cut the thing off at the thickest point even without having to worry about pinching the plastic. Than just a use a normal XActo knife to cut down to the part.

    I saw a starters guide for Gunpla and they were saying you need to invest at-least $100 in supplies. Which I think it just strange...
    Buying all name brand stuff might allow for a more trustworthy result and maybe a bit more ease of use. But thats a mighty big premium to pay.

  9. #624
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    California base.
    Posts
    1,192

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Quote Originally Posted by LeDelmo View Post
    Hey, Are Nippers really needed? I got my list of stuff to pick up and the Nippers seem to be one of the most expensive yet I really dont see the benefit of them...

    The ones used for Gunpla especially, as they are very thin and sharp to be able to cut really close to the part with out pinching. But looking at the angle of the blades. They seem to wear out rather fast. And the only thing they are really used for is to remove the parts from the runner.

    Wouldn't a normal $2.00 wire cutter from Wal-Mart or Part store do just aswell? You could cut the thing off at the thickest point even without having to worry about pinching the plastic. Than just a use a normal XActo knife to cut down to the part.

    I saw a starters guide for Gunpla and they were saying you need to invest at-least $100 in supplies. Which I think it just strange...
    Buying all name brand stuff might allow for a more trustworthy result and maybe a bit more ease of use. But thats a mighty big premium to pay.
    If you want to remove your parts from the runners without damaging them buy a set of nippers. The angle of the blades on the nippers allow for a cleaner cut with less of a chance of leaving stress marks on the part. Wire cutters and cheap nippers are dull unlike a quality set of nippers. Wire cutters crush the plastic and will damage the part as a result. If you use wire cutters on transparent parts you have a hire chance of damaging the part because the plastic used in transparent parts is much more brittle. Will nippers may seem like a expensive investment. They are infact that a investment. By invest $30-$60 in the proper tools it will provide you with better results and save you time and energy in the long run. If you haven't you should go on youtube and look up side cutter review or side cutter shootout. There are several videos that will show you the result of each tool.

  10. #625
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Fort wayne, Indiana
    Posts
    130

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Quote Originally Posted by Rxslinger View Post
    If you want to remove your parts from the runners without damaging them buy a set of nippers. The angle of the blades on the nippers allow for a cleaner cut with less of a chance of leaving stress marks on the part. Wire cutters and cheap nippers are dull unlike a quality set of nippers. Wire cutters crush the plastic and will damage the part as a result. If you use wire cutters on transparent parts you have a hire chance of damaging the part because the plastic used in transparent parts is much more brittle. Will nippers may seem like a expensive investment. They are infact that a investment. By invest $30-$60 in the proper tools it will provide you with better results and save you time and energy in the long run. If you haven't you should go on youtube and look up side cutter review or side cutter shootout. There are several videos that will show you the result of each tool.
    Something else to consider, is that if you get a cheaper pair, don't cut right at the connection. Then cut the remaining bit off with a razor knife. (Just whittle it down, or you may gouge the piece)
    WIP page : http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...rage-of-Gunpla

    Completed kits
    http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...ed-quot-builds

    All my latest work can also be seen on my Instagram (Gundam and Non-Gundam) jquintel2002

  11. #626
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2017
    Location
    MN
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    209

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Of all the reviews I found this guy seems to be the only one that really says it all.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G-AitxdbKo

    The god hands just seem like a huge waste of money. Only meant for those you have allot of disposable income. Or for professionals who get given them for free...

    This seems to be true for allot of industry's too. Allot of consumers seem to insist on buying the best when its rarely ever needed or recommended. Maybe its the idea that we HAVE to spend more to get superior results?

  12. #627
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    California base.
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    1,192

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Quote Originally Posted by LeDelmo View Post
    Of all the reviews I found this guy seems to be the only one that really says it all.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G-AitxdbKo

    The god hands just seem like a huge waste of money. Only meant for those you have allot of disposable income. Or for professionals who get given them for free...

    This seems to be true for allot of industry's too. Allot of consumers seem to insist on buying the best when its rarely ever needed or recommended. Maybe its the idea that we HAVE to spend more to get superior results?
    Honestly no one needs a set of godhands. I'd rather by a pair of tamiya side cutters.

  13. #628
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Fort wayne, Indiana
    Posts
    130

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Mic...QN788CJZREZ4J2

    These are the ones I got recently from my local hobby store, MUCH cheaper through amazon lol

    Another thing I do, Get a nice set for fine detail cuts, and have a cheapo pair for thicker cuts
    WIP page : http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...rage-of-Gunpla

    Completed kits
    http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...ed-quot-builds

    All my latest work can also be seen on my Instagram (Gundam and Non-Gundam) jquintel2002

  14. #629

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Quote Originally Posted by Jfl0 View Post

    I have two of those Camaro kits for my younglings! I also got them both a PetitG'Guy bear kit.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Rxslinger View Post
    Honestly no one needs a set of godhands. I'd rather by a pair of tamiya side cutters.
    I use the various sets of clippers I've acquired over a career in the injection molding industry. Model parts, real car parts... They cut the same.

    - - - Updated - - -

    One tool that I strongly recommend is this saw from JLC.
    http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=35

    Some parts, especially long, thin parts like gun barrels, antennas, etc... are very fragile, and tend to snap if flexed even a little bit. Clippers/nippers tend to cause flexing no matter how careful you are, resulting in breakage, and sometimes lost bits due to the pressure from breaking causing them to catapult into the Twilight Zone. Using a micro saw allows a clean separation with far less chance of breaking. I got one a few years ago from Jon Vojtec, the owner of UMM, and I wonder how I ever did without it. His panel scriber and other tools are pretty amazing too.
    Why do I prefer combat over social events? Simple: in combat, if you don't know what to do, you can always open fire. That tends to be frowned upon in social events.

  15. #630
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    California base.
    Posts
    1,192

    Re: New to Gunpla? This thread will answer your questions. Ask here, and not a new th

    Quote Originally Posted by Drachenherz View Post
    I have two of those Camaro kits for my younglings! I also got them both a PetitG'Guy bear kit.

    - - - Updated - - -



    I use the various sets of clippers I've acquired over a career in the injection molding industry. Model parts, real car parts... They cut the same.

    - - - Updated - - -

    One tool that I strongly recommend is this saw from JLC.
    http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/produ...products_id=35

    Some parts, especially long, thin parts like gun barrels, antennas, etc... are very fragile, and tend to snap if flexed even a little bit. Clippers/nippers tend to cause flexing no matter how careful you are, resulting in breakage, and sometimes lost bits due to the pressure from breaking causing them to catapult into the Twilight Zone. Using a micro saw allows a clean separation with far less chance of breaking. I got one a few years ago from Jon Vojtec, the owner of UMM, and I wonder how I ever did without it. His panel scriber and other tools are pretty amazing too.
    I use that same saw for cutting all my clear parts. The I just trim them with a hobby knife. A little sanding and buffing then it's perfect.


 

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