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  1. #61
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Our Hobby Town closed back before Christmas.Hobby Lobby is the only place to get anything now and I haven't been there in a while but I will give it a chance.Also I so multiple coats for the spray cans right?

  2. #62
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Light mist coats is the way to go with spray cans. Do a light pass over the parts, then about 10-15 mins later do another pass. After that, apply a good solid coat to finish covering the parts. Just be careful not to put to much or you'll begin to see pooling in areas.
    "Born to lose, Live to win" - Lemmy Kilmister

  3. #63
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Thanks lets hope this turns out well.I will post pictures when I am done

  4. #64
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Hi Guys,

    I don't quite know where to start, but this thread was really nice to find. I have been looking at purchasing my first Gundam model is probably 12 years, with my previous being 1/144 scale and very low grade. During that time between, I've been building and painting Warhammer 40K models. My experience ranges from doing cars and planes as a kid of 8 and screwing them up badly, up to doing some conversions and kit bashes for my 40K stuff, so I don't consider myself a beginner modeler.

    I have a couple of friends in my home town that have both built Gundam models, and both of them have told me that based on what skill and techniques they've seen me use in other models, that spending money on anything short of a Master Grade is probably a waste for me, so I am leaning that direction.

    Right now I am eyeballing two of my favorite Mobile Suits, and while I realize it's sad to say, I got into Gundam with Gundam Wing and loved the majority of those suits for the longest time. Right now I am debating between Wing Gundam Proto Zero and the Epyon models, with Deathscythe v2 being a distant third. I do not have a local hobby shop that carries these products, so I would be ordering through amazon, but this is what I am thinking.

    I currently have most of the tools you' want, including flush sprue snips, hobby knives, files, etc. I can go and get some of the finer sand paper, but the majority of what I have should be sufficient.

    My initial order was going to be something along the lines of:

    Brush-on thin plastic cement
    Decal Set
    Black Fineline Marker (GM01)
    Model
    Matching Waterslide Decal Sheet (I hate stickers)

    Is there anything in the above that is a must have I am missing? I probably won't order for a while yet, but I did want to start with the ask.

    Paul

  5. #65
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Well if you all the basic tools on hand, and you're planning ordering that list, the only thing that I might be able to come up with would be some Decal Softner and Setter. It'll really help those water slides settle down and look better than just applying them. I would also imagine that you have some clear coat as well?
    "Born to lose, Live to win" - Lemmy Kilmister

  6. #66
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    I don't have any Clear Coat, but I can get that easily enough, I haven't really used it in my other modeling ventures, may try it out here. I do have the Decal Set on my list above, I'll need to check into it's application. I have the other small tools for the transfers though. I have had mixed results with the others, but I've never actually sat down to do them myself before.

    Probably order out my stuff sometime next month.

    Best,

    Paul

  7. #67
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    I've never had decent results from Dry Transfers. Some guys like Zeta-G has great success with them. But I prefer water slides. I find them easier to work with. But the Clear coat will really protect those water slides after you've applied them. If you spray or brush on a good gloss coat after they have dried, it'll really seal them in. Then you can leave the kit shiny or flat coat it.
    "Born to lose, Live to win" - Lemmy Kilmister

  8. #68
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    I've worked with dry transfer and my oh my they are difficult to work with.

  9. #69
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    I remember dry transfers from doing Pinewood Derby Cars, the rub on kind at least. They were a pain in the rump. Don't want to do that again.

    Here is my next stupid question;

    To paint, or not to paint. I understand that with the models being cast in colors that are mostly accurate, painting is not a requirement, but for those that do paint, I understand Primer is a requirement, I do that on my other projects, but what I'm looking at is this:

    How does painting happen without interference with the model's overall articulation? I'm not looking at massive color scheme changes, I prefer the "normal" look, but as an example, I don't like the Maroon/DkBlue/DkLavender scheme on the Epyon, I'd like to re-paint it as Blood Red/Black/Grey I think. Do I prime and then paint the entire piece, or am I looking at having to mask off pieces that move so they aren't painted.

    Thoughts?

    Paul

  10. #70
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    I've painted a few kits and I have yet to use primer on them. Though I know that I should.

    Anyways, all you'd really need to do is some light sanding in the joint areas. This will free some of the friction and won't cause way to much when the paint is applied. Cause of a joint is super tight after it's painted, either the paint will become scratched or the joint might give and break.
    "Born to lose, Live to win" - Lemmy Kilmister

  11. #71
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Just want to add that it kinda depends on the kit too and your preference. For example, inner frames on master grade kits contain the majority of joints and moving parts. If you want to paint that, then you either use lacquer paints or, like what thwalker13 mentioned, sand down the areas with the most friction to make room for paint. Not painting the inner frame means it's a non-issue and the only thing to worry about is to make sure you paint all of the relevant areas of the armor parts. Masking joint and friction areas works too.

    In terms of priming, I find that it helps a lot in getting the right color down without using as much paint as well as ensuring a smooth surface. It can also offer protection from more plastic-harmful paints like enamels. In terms of adhesion, most paints can stick to the plastic just fine.
    "Typical. If I had a sense of humor left I might find that funny. I do not, on both accounts."

  12. #72
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dlinker View Post
    ... It can also offer protection from more plastic-harmful paints like enamels...
    Dlinker, I'm kinda confused. I've read your post a couple times, but still see it the same. I always thought lacquer was hotter paint than enamel, and it was the kind that would eat into the plastic. Please clarify.

  13. #73
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Sure thing, man. Lacquer is indeed hotter than enamel, but because it evaporates so quickly, it doesn't have enough time to do damage. Kinda the best of both worlds because it does eat into the plastic better than acrylics and enamels, but it doesn't stick around long enough to cause negative effects even if you happen to spray a heavy layer on a part (such as when spraying primer).

    Enamels, on the other hand, take a lot longer for their solvent/thinner to evaporate and thus has a higher chance to do damage. However, the chance of that drops if you use mineral spirits to thin enamel paint and you build up the paint in light layers. It's usually a certain enamel thinner that causes plastic to crumble. A primer layer can protect from that since the paint won't be touching the plastic directly.
    "Typical. If I had a sense of humor left I might find that funny. I do not, on both accounts."

  14. #74
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    If this question has been asked an answered before, I apologize, but I have not been able to find any answer for it. Are Real and High Grade Gunpla kits compatible when it comes to kit bashing and custom Gunpla? Or should HG stick with HG and RG stick with RG?

  15. #75
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    Re: Help! I am new, want to build gundams, and have zero clue how to build them!

    Most of the time, they are compatible. For example, one of our admins here (Asterisk) is kitbashing the RG Exia with the HGBF Amazing Exia and it's looking perfectly proportioned so far. It goes without saying that it will require modding parts to get them to fit.
    "Typical. If I had a sense of humor left I might find that funny. I do not, on both accounts."


 

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