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  1. #1
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    Help with my first MG: Heavy Arms EW 1/100

    So basically I have built one High grade the EW Heavy arms 1/144 and did nothing to it just snapped it out and put it together. All the runner plastic remnants still on the gundam...so it looks terrible. No paint, nothing extra at all.

    I am going straight for the MG heavy arms because I love this gundam!

    So there are a couple of things I want to do.

    1: I want to panel/line the gundam. I bought the GM01 black fine line marker. Any tips on how to use this effectively? Should I build it and then line or do it on the runners, how do I fix lines that "bleed" to much?
    I also bought the tamiya basic tool set so that should help a lot.
    2: I want to paint the micro missiles silver. To my understanding they are all on their own runner, not sure since I do not have the kit till friday. I bought a can of spray paint, testors silver enamel for "models and crafts". How many coats do I apply? How long should I wait in between coats? I did not buy any top coat or primer stuff. Do I need those just for the missiles? In any case I would like to know what would be recommended for this if it is needed or just for future knowledge.
    3: How do I specifically clean the parts for painting? I do not have any special ventilation or devices to hold the runners up...

    Also regarding paint for future reference I am so confused. I do not want to have to sand anything (unless completely necessary, please tell me the grit) if that makes a difference. I was reading about some builds involving that, so the paint sticks, but that is only if you are painting like a whole gundam right and to get rid of the plastic from the runners on the pieces? So what colors and types of paint in general should be used for each coat. Like do I use a black primer that is enamel with the silver enamel and then a clear top coat that is also enamel? I don't know I am so confused with all these paint types (acryllic, enamel, etc.) and what color primer/top coat in regards to the intended color to use. How many coats of each? This is all regarding spray painting.

    If there are any existing threads/sites on paint, sand paper, that would answer my questions or about my build, please feel free to redirect me. I do not really have the time to look around the forums.

    I know I am asking a ton of questions, but I am basically brand new to model kits and need help. I have loved gundam wing for so long and finally buying this kit is extremely bold for me lol. I do not want to mess up.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Wingzero001; May 14, 2013 at 8:22 PM.

  2. #2
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    First off, welcome to the forums! For your first question: to remove panel line bleeds, or you just want to clean it up, use rubbing alcohol applied sparingly with a Q-tip. 91% and above is best, but I have found that 70% works fine, and it's more accessible. Second question: For your first coat apply it very thinly. don't spray too much, or it will wash out the detail. Never stop spraying on the part. Go in quick, short short strokes left, right, up and down all over the piece. Use your own judgement for how many coats you should spray. Never do thick coats. I've built the MG Heavyarms, and if I'm not mistaken the inner frame and missiles are made out of ABS plastic. ABS plastic sometimes reacts to certain paint, causing the part to literally melt. I would test the paint on a spare runner first.
    "All art is quite useless." - Oscar Wilde

  3. #3
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    Thank you for the feedback and the welcome! I will definitely apply your tips. Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Another method that I use to clean up panel lines from my old GM01 is actually using my finger tips. Takes it right off for me. Bossguy is right on the coating. If it's enamel paint then you'll probably only need one good coat. Enamel takes anywhere between 24-72 hours to fully cure. That all depends on the paint itself. You also shouldn't need any primer at all for the missiles.

    To clean parts, regular soap and water works just fine. And as for sand paper, I use 800 grit and 1200 to 1500 grit sand paper for my parts. The paint types really depend on what you feel comfortable using. With experience you'll figure out what works to your liking. There are threads on the forum that will help out a lot. And of coarse everyone here is more than willing to help you out man. So don't be afraid to ask a question. We're here to help.
    "Born to lose, Live to win" - Lemmy Kilmister
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help thwalker13. I got so confused at the hobby store today and they knew nothing of what paints and types to use on model kits. I will definitely be coming here for further questions, just trying to google is definitely not working...

  6. #6
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    I have another really basic question, do I use one of the blades or pliers in the tamiya basic tool set and cut it out of the runner cleanly without having any runner plastic excess, or do I get it out with the blade/my hands and then try to cut the excess off? Does it matter, what is more efficient. I might be over thinking this lol.

  7. #7
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    Is this a question regarding nubs? If so, cut the part off of the sprue, leaving as big of a nub mark as you can. Then, you can take a hobby knife and shave the nub off. That gives you decent results, but to get the best looking nub-free part sand the nub left from the sprue down with sandpaper. Start with 600 grit and work your way up to 1000, or better: 2000 grit.

    Here are some good tutorials: http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/assem...vingparts.html

    http://gundamph.com/faqs/how-to-remo...-building-101/


    P.S.

    if you end up with a white mark where the nub once mas, take some paint (enamel should work) the same color as the part, and brush it on the white mark. Wipe it off with a Q-tip.
    Last edited by Bossguy; May 15, 2013 at 12:17 AM.
    "All art is quite useless." - Oscar Wilde

  8. #8
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    You can also use your fingernail to remove those white marks by scratching it with some pressure. Make sure you have a blunt fingernail, of course, or else you'll really scratch it, haha.

    Regarding the sprues, it really depends on you. I say try both methods (shaving off with a blade or sanding) and see which one speaks to you more. But, as Bossguy said, sanding does have the cleanest result, usually.

  9. #9
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    Hi WZ001 and welcome to the forums.




    Sprue Cutters
    ____________
    Sprue cutters look like a combination of scissors and a pair of pliers. They are designed to cut parts off of the sprue (please don't twist them off, it's a pet peeve of mine). Nub marks can be cleaned off with the sprue cutters and made flush with the plastic with a #11 xacto knife (or any xacto knife). Using a #11 is an art, and eventually you'll be able to use it without pitting the plastic. Try your best not to dig into the plastic, and always cut away from yourself.


    Panel Lining
    __________
    If you elect not to paint the entire gundam, you can apply your lining directly to the plastic. Use a Q-tip (cotton bud) and rubbing alcohol to take care of the excess. If you do paint the entire gundam, top coat it first with gloss then apply your panel lining, then clean it up, then apply the final top coat.


    Micro Missiles
    ___________
    I wouldn't call them micro But that is subjective. Apply one coat 7-8 inches away from the parts to be sprayed. You can get away with spraying the missiles on the sprue, but you need to either cut the other parts off or mask them on the sprue first. Start off of the work, bring the can over the parts, and let the paint stop off of the work. One coat should do it.


    Cleaning Parts
    ____________
    I run them under some cold water. Some folks use soap and a toothbrush.


    Sanding
    _______
    Sanding produces a much better finish than non-sanding, but it isn't a prerequisite with good plastic (like Bandai). I use 400 grit for rough work and 600 grit to smooth things out. I also have a dental pick if I took off too much of a panel line, and I use that or an x-acto knife to deepen the channel again.


    Paint Types
    _________
    There are four types of paint. The two most commonly used paints are:

    1) acrylic
    2) enamel

    the other less common used paints are

    3) lacquer
    4) shellac

    Acrylics are water based with their pigments. They are easy to clean up and work with and their drying times are fast- however it can be a pain to hand brush sometimes, and acrylics are notorious for causing dry tip (see airbrushing thread). Acrylics thin with water.

    Enamels are oil based with their pigments. They are much sturdier than acrylics, but take at least 24 hours to dry and sometimes up to a week to cure. Enamels are easy to hand brush and easy to airbrush with but are noxious and more difficult to clean up. Enamels thin with enamel/lacquer paint thinner.

    I like enamels, but almost exclusively paint with acrylics now because of the shop location/situation I have. White and yellow can be difficult to paint with in acrylic. You can put anything over an underlying enamel coat. HOWEVER, do not put an acrylic coat over an enamel coat. It will crack. So if you have an acrylic coat, it's OK to put an enamel coat on top of it, but not the other way around.


    Top Coat
    ________
    Top coat protects the paint job. There are two types of top coat:

    1) matte/flat
    2) gloss

    Gloss makes the finish more shiny. It also is a prerequisite to decal work and panel lining. Matte/flat is usually a final step top coat that flattens out the shine, unless one wants a gloss finish. A lot of top coats are in spray cans but they also make bottles for airbrushes.


    Primer
    ______

    Primer is another beast you don't need to worry about right now, especially with a spray can of enamel. Any paint can be used as a primer, but primers are made usually to be a shade of light to medium gray (to neutralize colors, because if you paint a blue on say, a yellow colored plastic part- it WILL change the color of the paint). Primer likes to stick to surfaces that have been sanded.


    No problem on being new. We all started at GO at some point. We'll get you started. It seems daunting at first, but everything is fairly simple and gets better with time, patience and practice. As a sub-community within a community (gundams -> model building) we have a vested interest in helping new hobbyists. I'm in the process of moving at the moment, but I will sub this thread. Keep posting back with questions/experiences, the community loves to see new work and fresh ideas.

    I got so confused at the hobby store today and they knew nothing of what paints and types to use on model kits.
    >.>


    boooooooooo! They should know their product. I'll work on a basic compendium today of information. It's long overdo.

    -Jfl0
    Last edited by Jfl0; May 15, 2013 at 9:22 AM.

  10. #10
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    Wow thanks for that info Jfl0. I really appreciate all the help and feedback!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfl0 View Post
    Hi WZ001 and welcome to the forums.




    Sprue Cutters
    ____________
    Sprue cutters look like a combination of scissors and a pair of pliers. They are designed to cut parts off of the sprue (please don't twist them off, it's a pet peeve of mine). Nub marks can be cleaned off with the sprue cutters and made flush with the plastic with a #11 xacto knife (or any xacto knife). Using a #11 is an art, and eventually you'll be able to use it without pitting the plastic. Try your best not to dig into the plastic, and always cut away from yourself.


    Panel Lining
    __________
    If you elect not to paint the entire gundam, you can apply your lining directly to the plastic. Use a Q-tip (cotton bud) and rubbing alcohol to take care of the excess. If you do paint the entire gundam, top coat it first with gloss then apply your panel lining, then clean it up, then apply the final top coat.


    Micro Missiles
    ___________
    I wouldn't call them micro But that is subjective. Apply one coat 7-8 inches away from the parts to be sprayed. You can get away with spraying the missiles on the sprue, but you need to either cut the other parts off or mask them on the sprue first. Start off of the work, bring the can over the parts, and let the paint stop off of the work. One coat should do it.


    Cleaning Parts
    ____________
    I run them under some cold water. Some folks use soap and a toothbrush.


    Sanding
    _______
    Sanding produces a much better finish than non-sanding, but it isn't a prerequisite with good plastic (like Bandai). I use 400 grit for rough work and 600 grit to smooth things out. I also have a dental pick if I took off too much of a panel line, and I use that or an x-acto knife to deepen the channel again.


    Paint Types
    _________
    There are four types of paint. The two most commonly used paints are:

    1) acrylic
    2) enamel

    the other less common used paints are

    3) lacquer
    4) shellac

    Acrylics are water based with their pigments. They are easy to clean up and work with and their drying times are fast- however it can be a pain to hand brush sometimes, and acrylics are notorious for causing dry tip (see airbrushing thread). Acrylics thin with water.

    Enamels are oil based with their pigments. They are much sturdier than acrylics, but take at least 24 hours to dry and sometimes up to a week to cure. Enamels are easy to hand brush and easy to airbrush with but are noxious and more difficult to clean up. Enamels thin with enamel/lacquer paint thinner.

    I like enamels, but almost exclusively paint with acrylics now because of the shop location/situation I have. White and yellow can be difficult to paint with in acrylic. You can put anything over an underlying enamel coat. HOWEVER, do not put an acrylic coat over an enamel coat. It will crack. So if you have an acrylic coat, it's OK to put an enamel coat on top of it, but not the other way around.


    Top Coat
    ________
    Top coat protects the paint job. There are two types of top coat:

    1) matte/flat
    2) gloss

    Gloss makes the finish more shiny. It also is a prerequisite to decal work and panel lining. Matte/flat is usually a final step top coat that flattens out the shine, unless one wants a gloss finish. A lot of top coats are in spray cans but they also make bottles for airbrushes.


    Primer
    ______

    Primer is another beast you don't need to worry about right now, especially with a spray can of enamel. Any paint can be used as a primer, but primers are made usually to be a shade of light to medium gray (to neutralize colors, because if you paint a blue on say, a yellow colored plastic part- it WILL change the color of the paint). Primer likes to stick to surfaces that have been sanded.


    No problem on being new. We all started at GO at some point. We'll get you started. It seems daunting at first, but everything is fairly simple and gets better with time, patience and practice. As a sub-community within a community (gundams -> model building) we have a vested interest in helping new hobbyists. I'm in the process of moving at the moment, but I will sub this thread. Keep posting back with questions/experiences, the community loves to see new work and fresh ideas.



    >.>


    boooooooooo! They should know their product. I'll work on a basic compendium today of information. It's long overdo.

    -Jfl0
    Wow. He blew our other answers out of the water. Hope you have luck with your project Wingzero! I look forward to seeing the finished product.
    "All art is quite useless." - Oscar Wilde

  12. #12
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    Also more information on sanding would be appreciated. Doesn't sanding roughen and scratch the plastic and make the surface uneven? Are there proper techniques to doing this? Like how should the plastic look and feel when it has been sanded enough and ready for painting?

  13. #13
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    Haha bossguy, it is all good feedback. I will try to get the finished product on here, may be a while as I am rather busy with school.

  14. #14
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    Sanding roughens and scratches the plastic only if you use a lower grit (say, lower than 600). Anything that's 1000 grit and above won't do it nor will it become uneven unless you sand it uneven.

  15. #15
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    no problem. You were the catalyst for this thread, which is here now for newer members looking to get into the hobby and take a 10 minute crash course in what it's all about. We'll take care of ya I love seeing other people's work; and a lot of people starting out have had better 1st projects than mine (lol). Man that ship was crap xD

    Doesn't sanding roughen and scratch the plastic and make the surface uneven?
    Yes and no. It does roughen the plastic, and even at 1000 grit I am picky with it. If you do mar a plastic part in the future with cement, it can be sanded off with 400, then 600, and kind of "buffed" with 1000 grit or higher. Sand in one direction to prevent rounding edges. I believe your finger pad is around 2000 grit or something if I recall correctly
    Last edited by Jfl0; May 15, 2013 at 3:15 PM.


 

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