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  1. #481
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    The thing by the trigger? I think that's actually a dust catch. If you open it, is it emty with a coil inside, or does it have a filter? I have one of those and it really doesn't do the job that a regular one does. When i finally cracked mine open there was a dirty filter in there. No idea how to replace it either lol

    The compressor is sold via prime

    https://www.amazon.com/California-Ai...mpressor&psc=1

    watch the video to see why i say its so quiet!
    Last edited by Squee; May 1, 2018 at 11:08 PM.


    https://www.facebook.com/Squeesworkbench

    I am no longer a Moderator despite what the user title says. Please do NOT pm me with questions on how to do something hobby related or with issues with the board. Just ask in a related thread.

  2. #482
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    The big ass hunk of metal that's connecting the hose and the AB. It has a cloth filter in it. It was labeled as a moister trap at least.

    Well being as that bad boy is vastly cheaper and ypu recommend it, I can give it a shot. The goal is to reach your level, then surpass you after all

  3. #483
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Yes the California AIr tools is a great compressor. I want one, but I will wait a bit mine is working just fine for now. I just have a cheap old Harbor Freight one. But it does get hot and it can "lock up" every once and a great while. But hell the thing is 6 or 7 years old. But if I were you and you are ready to get a new set up go for the one Squee showed you.

    On a side note, hell ya use Hobby lobby for stuff with those kind of discounts! My Mom works at Kohls and between her discounts and what not I get stuff super cheap.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

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  4. #484
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    Is there a tried and true method for thinning? Or is it just trial and error to get a ďmilkĒ consistency?

    Iím in Japan right now so I am mainly using Mr.Color Lacquer paints at the moment with Mr. Color Thinner as itís the easiest and most readily accessible paint in the one small hobby shop here in town...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #485
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyBoy0329 View Post
    Is there a tried and true method for thinning? Or is it just trial and error to get a “milk” consistency?

    I’m in Japan right now so I am mainly using Mr.Color Lacquer paints at the moment with Mr. Color Thinner as it’s the easiest and most readily accessible paint in the one small hobby shop here in town...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The consistency of milk is your best bet. With mr color its roughly a 2-1 (thinner to paint) ratio.

  6. #486

    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    I tried Google for this but it's not much help so hoping differently with you guys...

    I busted out my double action gravity feed airbrush this morning and I couldn't get it to spit paint or bubble back wash. I then decided to disassemble it and reassemble it for a complete cleaning. After that I noticed that the flap or metal thing behind the trigger that I assume activates it to release paint after it's pulled back is extremely loose and not staying with the trigger. After playing around with it, I found that it's either extremely loose or tight. It will either not allow the trigger to be pulled back or after the trigger is pulled back it won't return. The spring inside the brush appears fine.

    So.. Any suggestions? Is it repairable or do I need to replace it? It's a zero something ab.

  7. #487
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by justicebeaver View Post
    I tried Google for this but it's not much help so hoping differently with you guys...

    I busted out my double action gravity feed airbrush this morning and I couldn't get it to spit paint or bubble back wash. I then decided to disassemble it and reassemble it for a complete cleaning. After that I noticed that the flap or metal thing behind the trigger that I assume activates it to release paint after it's pulled back is extremely loose and not staying with the trigger. After playing around with it, I found that it's either extremely loose or tight. It will either not allow the trigger to be pulled back or after the trigger is pulled back it won't return. The spring inside the brush appears fine.

    So.. Any suggestions? Is it repairable or do I need to replace it? It's a zero something ab.
    First off what Airbrush fo you have?

    Second. Can you post a pic of it?

  8. #488
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    How about a picture for reference.
    It sounds like it is the trigger tension clip thingy. Dose it look like a small letter "C" if so the open end should face the trigger. The curved part should go against the spring housing.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

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  9. #489

    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    I apparently need to get to know my nomenclature better with airbrushes lol.

    I have a zero point?

    Gundammonkey's suggestion seems to have worked now. I continually played with it and it seems the back tension control is only half it and the tension control in the brush was not properly at the right tightness.

    I will learn the nomenclature lol.

  10. #490
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Likely going to be trying my first airbrushed clear coat with the Pledge Future/whatever-they're-branding-it-as-now, and I was wondering on actual application technique. Several light layers like normal paints? Any particular air pressure range?
    It's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. At least, that's what I keep telling myself with all my modeling supplies...

    My Gunpla Blog - http://eastkygunpla.com/

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  11. #491
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    I keep mine around 15 - 20 PSI. Do you dilute your future? and don't forget to clean the hell out of the AB the last thing you want is a bit of that stuff drying inside. Getting it out will be next to impossible, or a major pain in the ass at the least.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by justicebeaver View Post
    I apparently need to get to know my nomenclature better with airbrushes lol.

    I have a zero point?

    Gundammonkey's suggestion seems to have worked now. I continually played with it and it seems the back tension control is only half it and the tension control in the brush was not properly at the right tightness.

    I will learn the nomenclature lol.
    The back part that holds the spring, you should be able to screw it in and out. The further you screw it in the tighter the trigger, out the lighter the trigger. I have mine way out so my trigger pull is super lite, only because I don't have great use of my hand but if you have to little pressure on the trigger the needle will not seat back properly so it is a "How you like it" type thing.
    Here is a diagram of the parts I'm talking about.
    The Red arrow is the tension control.
    The Blue arrow is the "C" shaped "Rocker" (never really knew what that was called LOL)

    bg_105_sch_l.jpg

    This is a "Simple" view of the same type thing all put together.

    brushsch3.jpg

    Hope this helps out.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

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  12. #492
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by gundammonkey View Post
    I keep mine around 15 - 20 PSI. Do you dilute your future? and don't forget to clean the hell out of the AB the last thing you want is a bit of that stuff drying inside. Getting it out will be next to impossible, or a major pain in the ass at the least.

    - - - Updated - - -



    The back part that holds the spring, you should be able to screw it in and out. The further you screw it in the tighter the trigger, out the lighter the trigger. I have mine way out so my trigger pull is super lite, only because I don't have great use of my hand but if you have to little pressure on the trigger the needle will not seat back properly so it is a "How you like it" type thing.
    Here is a diagram of the parts I'm talking about.
    The Red arrow is the tension control.
    The Blue arrow is the "C" shaped "Rocker" (never really knew what that was called LOL)

    bg_105_sch_l.jpg

    This is a "Simple" view of the same type thing all put together.

    brushsch3.jpg

    Hope this helps out.
    Two questions. I don't use future, but I want to try it out.
    1. What are you diluting future with?
    2. What are you using to clean the ab?

  13. #493
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Well, I've never actually used Future before, so it's a whole new experience for me. I've heard it should go straight through without being diluted. Not sure about cleanup, either.
    It's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. At least, that's what I keep telling myself with all my modeling supplies...

    My Gunpla Blog - http://eastkygunpla.com/

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  14. #494
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Yes it can go straight from the bottle. I find a mix of about 80% Future to 20% isopropyl alcohol (i use the 91%) and just 1 drop of dish washing liquid detergent (helps break surface tension so the future flows smoothly on the details.) be sure to mix well. and this works well for me.
    For clean up use something with ammonia in it, like windex or straight ammonia at a 60/40 mix with water. (Straight ammonia will mess you up really quick so watch the fumes). Just make sure you clean the AB ASAP future dries really quickly, and never NEVER run the AB dry always keep fluid in the cup. If you run it dry with future you will dry it in the AB and then you are in a world of hurt trying to get it out.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

    My Blog postings. https://gundammonkeysgarage.wordpress.com/

  15. #495
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    Re: The Airbrush question thread. Ask questions here and not in a new thread.

    Awesome, thanks for the info!
    It's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. At least, that's what I keep telling myself with all my modeling supplies...

    My Gunpla Blog - http://eastkygunpla.com/

    My WIPs - http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...8-Urban-s-WIPs

    My Completed Kits - http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...-Sniper-s-Hide


 

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