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  1. #16
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    Vallejo acrylics are pretty fragile without primer underneath so yeah, that's normal behavior in your situation. They can get pretty strong without primer, but only if you add more layers and give it plenty of time to cure (around a week is optimal). A clear coat will make it more resistant, but when it does scratch, the paint will go with it easily.

    You can use Future or a lacquer clear coat without any issues (enamel too, but I haven't tried it). Of course, if you're using lacquer, make sure the paint has enough time to cure and spray on light coats or else the paint will get eaten up. It depends on how fast you want the clear coat to be ready for handling, really. In my experience, Future can take a couple of days and sometimes requires two or three layers.

  2. #17
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    Hey Brotz-

    Sounds about normal to me. Just be careful with handling.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfl0 View Post
    I've been looking for Mr. Surfacer everywhere- I see that stuff all the time on Youtube and I want a big bottle of it so I can spray it through my airbrush. Can't find it in the US.
    I got mine from Amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...+surfacer+1200

    Hobbywave also have them but they were out of 1200 at the time but I did get some 500 and 1000 from them.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brotzmann View Post
    Thanks for posting all the helpful info Jfl0!
    The LHS guy claims they had Tamiya thinner analysed and it is nothing but denatured alcohol with a jacked up price. I don't know him well enough to believe it as fact but it works so far.
    Yes and no, It's probably 98-99% alcohol but it's the remaining 1-2% that makes the difference. They are some sort of retarding agent so your paint while drying faster than water thinned but still slower than using just isopropyl. Yes, you can probably mix Iso and water and get the same result but this keep it simple, I got a 250ml bottle for $9 and I used maybe 25ml painting the MG 00 Raiser so $1 a kit is not bad.
    Last edited by Wiz33; March 19, 2013 at 5:59 PM.

  5. #20
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    This is a great thread, someone should sticky this. The Airbrush maintenance part is very well done. I do use a lot of the same stuff from your list but I also differ in quite a few area so I figure I'll share my recent experience and goes a bit more into the equipments and accessories here. A little background first.

    Until recently. The last time I built models of any kind was over 10 years ago. It's somewhere between the introduction of the MG series and before the PG Wing Zero Custom. I had a small setup with compressor, moisture trap, and a pretty decent Paasche and I was using Tamiya Acrylic at the time. I built quite a few kits like the Original MG RX-78, the Dom, etc. Problems was that airbrushing was a pain if you do not have a painting booth. All the fumes (even if you wear a mask, they still get all over the house before it goes out the windows), paint particles ends up all over the place and were a pain to clean up. Since there was no reasonably priced hobby scale painting booth available back then and I wasn't about to spend $500+ (pre-2001 dollar) for a table size painting booth. eventually, I just stopped building kits.

    But I still have kits dating from before and I never stopped buying. I also kept up with subs on Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby. I recently took a look at my store room and I have over 200 kits sitting there. All the PGs and a good percentage of the MGs & RGs, kits from the Original Bandai Macross (and it's many spin-off and sequels) and StarBlazer releases and I have the Yamato 2199 kits sitting in the HLJ private warehouse waiting to be shipped. So I figure that I better start getting around to them before my eyes gets too old (already started) and my hands get shaky (fortunately not yet).

    I dug up my storage box and start checking for things I need to replace or replenish. All the tools seems to be in good shape. Surprisingly, most of the Tamiya paint seems to have survived too (I guess always cleaning the bottle lip before putting the cap back on and keeping them in a dry cool place helps). I also search around on the Web to see what new tools and techniques is being used and I found tons of information (youtube, blogs, forums, etc).

    The first thing I found is that Hobby scale Spray booth are now available at a somewhat reasonable price (under $250 mostly). I looked around and I found this (it's basically the same as the Paasche one at half the price):

    http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray...ref=pd_sbs_t_1

    As you will read in the reviews. The fan is a bit weak in this one but you can't beat the price and size. It will handle airbrushing with no problem unless you went full blast for an extended period. If you are using canned sprays. You'll need to use short burst and give it a few second in between. I open the window a bit and sandwich the exhaust outlet between the window and the frame and then I use a medium masking tape to seal off the remaining open area to the top. The unit uses a 120MM PC fan at 12V and is rated at about 90CFM (cubic feet/minute) and I have found a 120MM 12V fan that will do 120CFM so I may get one to try to improve the performance a bit.

    The benefits for the spray booth is as follows and to me it's well worth the $90 cost:

    1) No need for a heavy mask on your face that gets hot and humid.

    2) Trapping the paint particles and exhausting the fumes out a window is much better than using a mask and fan. All you're doing then is just spreading the particles and fumes all over the house.

    I also want a new compressor since my old one was noisy and weak. I wanted one with a tank so it won't run all the time and I get a more stable air flow. I was going to keep my Paasche airbrush as it was still working well but then I saw some of the combo pack with Compressor and Airbrush so I decide to get one of those since it's always handy to have a extra airbrush around. I ended up with one of this:

    http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrus...726835&sr=1-70

    The compressor is fairly quiet (at least compared to my old one) and it only runs about 1/2 the time when I set the output pressure to between 15-20 PSI. The Master airbrush works just as well as my much more expensive Paasche and while I originally intended it as my backup. It is now my primary as I learned that I can use lower air pressure with a gravity feed vs Siphon (my Paasche) airbrush.

    I also got me 4 packs of these alligator clips to hold the pieces while painting and drying. You'll need at least this amount for large MG kits (MG 00 Raiser) and maybe more for PG:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I also got eye protection. This is just to keep paint particles and fumes from irritating your eyes. This one goes over my reading glasses, not air tight but does the job along with the spray booth.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I still use a mask while painting but having a spray booth that traps most of the paint particles and exhaust most of the fume out the windows allow me to use a much lighter mask like this:

    http://www.amazon.com/3M-Cool-Flow-P...ef=pd_sim_hi_3

    I also got a bunch of this in varies grades:

    http://www.amazon.com/3M-SandBlaster...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

    If you sand your pieces before priming and painting. You know how messy it gets. I use these wet. It helps traps most of the particles as you are sanding and you just rinse them in the sink every once in a while. Try doing that with sandpapers.

    This is basically how my setup differs from the OP's. I'll get into what paint I use and why on the next post.
    Last edited by Wiz33; March 19, 2013 at 7:08 PM.

  6. #21
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    Excellent addition to an already extensive repository. Looking forward to your treatise on paints.

    I envy you guys and your ability to have a spray booth or being able to do it indoors. I don't have the luxury so I make do with my garage and essentially doing all of my AB work inches away from an open doorway. I sometimes add a fan behind me to help with keeping the airflow going outside.

    Also, I happen to use sandpaper instead of the sponges, although I do have the sponges too. And yes, I do wash the sandpaper; no difference from the sponges

  7. #22
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    OK, lets get to paint. Once I decided to get back into building kits. I have to find a kit to start. The kit that got me motivated is the new MG Nu Gundam ver Ka. I watch some of the early build video on Youtube while waiting for mine to show up. I notice that a lot of the early build was not painted and I thought it was really a waste on a kit of this caliber. Then I saw that vegeta8259 on Youtube took his apart and start painting it (watch his vid, I think he did an amazing job, especially the inner frame). That really got me wanting to get back into things. However, there's no way I'll start with this kit after being idle for so long so I started looking at some of my more recent kits. I always love gadgets so the MG 00 Raiser was high on the list and since I got both the PG and MG, I figure if I mess up the MG kit, it's no great lost. Then I was browsing on Ebay looking for add-ons and decals for it and I stumble upon a Chinese knockoff at half the price. I jumped at it since I expect to mess up a lot getting back into things.

    Although I have gotten some of the Gundam Color paint sets thru the years. I figure I'll stick with the Tamiya that I have (just to see if they are still usable). I do need to get some primer so I went to the local hobby shop and got some Testors gray primer. I decide to assemble the kit first and then take it apart again for painting (after all it's a knockoff kit so I want to see how thing fits together and if I have to do a large amount of sanding and filling.).

    The kit actually fits well for a re-mold and I don't have to do a lot of trims or fills. Took it apart. Washed it and proceed to put on the primer. Learning to thin paint properly again took a few tries but then things went pretty smooth. The primer went on and the Tamiya acrylic seems to be holding up fine. Took me a couple weeks to get everything painted. Then I put it back together and proceeded with decals and panel lining. This is where I ran into problems.

    I was using Gundam markers for the panel line and when I go out of line. I need to clean it up and although I tried using a very slightly thinner damped Qtip for the cleanup, I start dissolving the base paint layer and cotton strands are sometimes sticking to the pieces which require more cleaning and resulting in more base paint dissolving. I ended up messing up a few pieces that I have to wash the paint off and re-paint.

    The last base paint went on about a week before I put it back together so it has plenty of time to dry and cure properly. I don't remember this happening in the past ( but I maybe using enamel based paint back then). The only thing I can do at this point is try to top coat it with a couple thin layer of lacquer based top coat (hope that won't dissolve the base paint) then panel line on top of that.

    My current solution for the next kit (Bandai 1/72 Macross Frontier VF-25S) is going to Mr. Color paint for all the base paint. Then I should be able to panel line with no problem.

    It's been so long since I did any panel lining so I guess this is a old problem. Will the lacquer top coat method work?
    Last edited by Wiz33; March 19, 2013 at 10:39 PM.

  8. #23
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    Wow, taking on the Ozma VF-25S, eh? I built it two years ago (plain OOB) and people are right when they say the tolerances for transformation are way too small, so small that paint scratches are guaranteed even if using lacquer.

    Why not use a panel line wash? You're using a lacquer top coat so once you put a layer on (light layers won't damage a paint job that's been drying/curing for a week), go for either an enamel wash or acrylic wash. Much easier and you won't have to worry about anything being dissolved underneath.

  9. #24
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    I agree with trying the panel line wash. I did it for the first time on my last build. It's easy and I think it actually looks better than using Gundam markers. I would definately clear coat over the paint before panel lining. I've been using future floor polish for my clear coat which is acrylic. I haven't used lacquer clear coat enough to comment on it.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dlinker View Post
    Wow, taking on the Ozma VF-25S, eh? I built it two years ago (plain OOB) and people are right when they say the tolerances for transformation are way too small, so small that paint scratches are guaranteed even if using lacquer.

    Why not use a panel line wash? You're using a lacquer top coat so once you put a layer on (light layers won't damage a paint job that's been drying/curing for a week), go for either an enamel wash or acrylic wash. Much easier and you won't have to worry about anything being dissolved underneath.
    I did a few of the Original Bandai Macross kit in the past and the transformation is really fragile so I'm not planning on doing a lot of transformation on it. I also got the other 4 (RVF, F, G and the VF-27) in varies loadouts so I'll probably do one as Fighter, one as Gerwalk and one as Battroid and leave it as that.

  11. #26
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    Since this is the Air Brushing thread and we are going a bit off topic. I'm going to start a thread on Panel lining and I hope you guys will drop in and give me advise and details.

  12. #27
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    I am afraid of my airbrush. I tried using it to prime a model, and the thing just splattered all over the place. I use a Paasche H single-action siphon fed airbrush. I'm inclined to believe that it's the air pressure; I don't have a pressure regulator, is it worthwhile to purchase one?

  13. #28
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    Yeah, it's generally a good idea to get a pressure regulator. Not just for the air flow control, but to make it easier when figuring out what's causing issues when spraying since PSI does determine a number of things.

    Regarding your current issue, are you able to spray everything else (even water) without splattering?

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by FinneganBojangles View Post
    I am afraid of my airbrush. I tried using it to prime a model, and the thing just splattered all over the place. I use a Paasche H single-action siphon fed airbrush. I'm inclined to believe that it's the air pressure; I don't have a pressure regulator, is it worthwhile to purchase one?
    Which compressor are you using at what pressure? Do you have a moisture trap? Is you paint thinned correctly?

  15. #30
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    Are there any differences in quality or anything really if you buy a cheap general use airbrush rather than one of the major brand ones?


 

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