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  1. #2356

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    For resin parts, can i use Mr color Primer or needs to use special primer?

  2. #2357
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Quote Originally Posted by Errz View Post
    For resin parts, can i use Mr color Primer or needs to use special primer?
    Use Mr. Resin Surface Primer for resin kits. Do not use Mr Resin on plastic kits.

  3. #2358
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Odd question, but I see alot of guys Polishing their metalic paints, mostly Mr. what ever and Testors. When you polish are you guys using a rubbing compound? Or do you just rub them with nothing but like a clean Q-Tip or Micro Fiber cloth? I use alot of Allclad II and now mission models, but I was gong to get some of the AK true metal wax stuff. They say it can be "Buffed" to a better shine. I have all kinds of buffing compounds, surface prepping fluids, and sanding jell (the equivalent of 20K grit and higher) So the question is use some compound or go at it dry?


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

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  4. #2359
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Quote Originally Posted by gundammonkey View Post
    Odd question, but I see alot of guys Polishing their metalic paints, mostly Mr. what ever and Testors. When you polish are you guys using a rubbing compound? Or do you just rub them with nothing but like a clean Q-Tip or Micro Fiber cloth? I use alot of Allclad II and now mission models, but I was gong to get some of the AK true metal wax stuff. They say it can be "Buffed" to a better shine. I have all kinds of buffing compounds, surface prepping fluids, and sanding jell (the equivalent of 20K grit and higher) So the question is use some compound or go at it dry?
    I know most people use q-tips to polish their metallic paints. A micro fiber cloth might work as well, but it is something that should be tested. You should Also practice spraying and buffing metallic paint before you begin your project. If your not careful you can wear through the paint while buffing.

    From what I've seen (tutorials) the AK true metal looks like it provides a decent finish, but I've also heard they are very easy to wear through while polishing. I'd like to try some and see for myself.

    DO NOT USE ANY RUBBING COMPOUNDS!
    Rubbing compounds and other metal polishes are abrasive and wear always layers of metal to provide a smooth finish. It will destroy a metallic paint job.

  5. #2360
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    What Rx said.......

    Yeah they are quite fragile, almost tacky, so a fine cloth with minimal pressure. My biggest issue is finding a sealer that doesn't change the buffed finish. It's a lot like sealing Alclad, it always changes the finish. I have done military aircraft and stuff that don't get handled so I usually buff and leave as is on various parts because there is no need to handle them. This pose able figure caper is a whole new thing to me. Has me thinking more about durability and appearance.

  6. #2361
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Thanks to both of you. Answer achieved. The Kit is a static display, the Mechanicore tieftsturmer but I will have to take it apart for transport so I will have to handle it once and a while. But once it is set up is moves much the same as a brick doesn't.


    To error is human, to forgive is divine, Luckily I'm neither of these things!

    My WIP: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...816#post274816

    My built stuff:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...eys-Big-Garage

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  7. #2362
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    Paint Storage.... ready to use. The importance of clear colours

    Probably obvious but some may have not thought of it.

    It was time to go through and resurrect my stash of Tamiya acrylic paints. What I have been doing of late with my paints is to get cheap Vape dropper bottles online and transfer all my acrylics from the pots. I also have some glass beakers (25ml and 50ml) which I use to mix my colours in. It's so much cleaner and far less paint is wasted and when I'm ready to paint it's fire up the compressor and pretty much go.

    20180616_151811.jpg

    To make sure I don't get confused I put the primary gloss colours in 50ml bottles and the flat colours in 30ml bottles. Nothing worse than accidentally using flat paint where you wanted gloss or visa versa.

    The other thing for those starting out airbrushing. Don't overlook the importance of clear colours. They are perfect for giving parts depth and getting good metallic blends. I don't buy any metallic acrylics. I base coat with gunmetal aluminium and chrome and then use the clear colours to produce a metallic effect. This produces a metallic with depth. Also if you then pic different clears and selectively do light coats to certain areas of a piece you can make the part pop with depth. you can even get a a candy pearl effect doing this without having to buy expensive paints.

    An example: Base with gunmetal with some aluminium or chrome highlights. Lightly coat with clear red until you get the desired red. then in areas lightly coat in clear blue. this will deepen the red in that area and give the piece a shaded deep appearance. Apply Panel accent and clean up. Finish by lightly applying gloss clear to seal and then flat clear in areas to knock down the gloss, but don't do it uniformly. Alclad metals are ideal for laying clear colours over as well. On the sword sheath I deliberately applied a thicker consistency red and blue clear to give it a texture.

    20180616_154729.jpg

    And some clear blue thinned lightly applied over gloss red.

    20180616_173014.jpg
    Last edited by Mark; June 16, 2018 at 4:03 AM.

  8. #2363

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Can anyone recommend a good gloss top coat spray can style?

    Whenever I do a panel wash with enamel paints over acrylic base and acrylic top coat the lighter fluid stains the paint underneath. I've tried lacquer top coats and it either made the plastic and paint brittle or stained as well.

    I would prefer a spray can that is cheap and available in US.

    Most recently, I used model master acrylic top coat out of airbrush and experienced same staining issue.

    Anyone have this issue? Suggestions? Advice?

  9. #2364
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Most of the can Acrylics are not the right acrylic so the lighter fluid will damage them as will the enamel wash etch into them. they are more a lacquer and I believe it's so they work better from a pressure pack. You really want to be using a full model acrylic like Tamiya, Vallejo, Mr colour etc. clear acrylic. These after a 24 hour cure are pretty much impervious to enamel wash and Zippo fluid. Get a cheap large airbrush (gravity feed) and make up dropper bottles of 2 parts acrylic clear (or satin) to 1 part of their recommended thinner (I find 1:1 also works ok with most if the mix is still a bit thick) and coat parts with this before panel wash. Zippo fluid will cut through if applied to wet so go sparingly, I wet a cotton bud then almost dry it with a tissue before using it.

    I have never had much luck with the model master Acrylic and panel wash.

    Bottles... this sort of thing:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50ml-Cle...-VGEQ3cWvIxkbg

    Mark

  10. #2365

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Thanks a lot for the suggestion!

  11. #2366
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    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    What kind of paint is used on the soft vinyl figures, like the Kamen Rider Hero ones and such? I'm thinking adding some more paint to mine, but it's that soft vinyl material, and I doubt any of my usual model paints would stick. Got any ideas? Something should work, as the figures came with painted details from the factory...
    "It's not a mistake...it's BATTLE DAMAGE!"
    Plamobot's build thread Plamobot's trade thread


 

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