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  1. #2266
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Fort wayne, Indiana
    Posts
    75

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1punchman View Post
    huh, that's actually a good tip about the cardboard. thanks!

    - - - Updated - - -

    i was thinking that would be the problem. but for those of you who have younger siblings, you know how impatient they can be. i told him before he sprayed it that he should let the paint dry for atleast an hour. little smart ass says: "you know i'm not the patient type"

    ...good thing it wasn't my gundam lol. i painted the gun for his strike freedom mg, just the part with the blue stripe.
    needless to say i was hesitant about painting it since he just took the sticker off and didn't take off the residue from the sticker. i pretty much went in with a few thin layers of paint.

    - - - Updated - - -

    was thinking the same, ha!
    Another trick if your using Tamiya acrylic paints is that you can clean up a messed up paint job with oxi clean and hot water.
    WIP page : http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...rage-of-Gunpla

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    http://www.gundamforums.com/showthre...ed-quot-builds

    "What about the reality where Hitler cured cancer, Morty? The answer is: Don't think about it."

  2. #2267
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    1

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Hi guys! I'm a newbie in gunpla painting. For now, I only want to apply topcoat and my questions are:

    1. Do I need to apply primer or can it be straight forward topcoat?
    2. Which should be done first, topcoat or decals?
    3. Is it true that a matte finish can cover the white stress marks as opposed to semi-gloss or glossy finish?

    This may have already been discussed in previous pages but I don't have the time to read over 150 pages LOL

    Thanks for your time.

  3. #2268

    Re: Paint/Topcoat Thread. This is where to ask questions. NOT new threads.

    Hey guys, once I cut off and sand down the nub marks, is it okay to spot paint over the little white stress marks or do I have to prime the whole piece and then paint it?

    Also(kind of related to the above question), how do I know which colors to mix to achieve a certain color? I tried mixing flat blue and flat white to achieve the same brightish blue color as my RX-78's chest, but all I got was a bluish-grey color.

  4. #2269

    Help: Having trouble with lacquer paints

    This is how I paint:
    primer (lacquer, mr hobby) wait for 5 minutes to 1 hour to touch dry.
    painting in colours wait for 5 minutes to 1 hour to touch dry.
    I waited until the next day to assemble then I sprayed with clear/flat top coat.

    the problem is, the paints are all scratched when I assemble the kit. how do I resolve this? should I wait more than that?

    many thanks before

  5. #2270

    Re: Help: Having trouble with lacquer paints

    Quote Originally Posted by PeaceDivision View Post
    This is how I paint:
    primer (lacquer, mr hobby) wait for 5 minutes to 1 hour to touch dry.
    painting in colours wait for 5 minutes to 1 hour to touch dry.
    I waited until the next day to assemble then I sprayed with clear/flat top coat.

    the problem is, the paints are all scratched when I assemble the kit. how do I resolve this? should I wait more than that?

    many thanks before

    I'm really far from an expert, but I would say you definitely did not allow enough time for your primer to dry.

    Generally, anything lacquer based you should let stand for sometime to "cure". Generally, again, 24 hour rule. Paints dry time vary depending on type and layer thinness.

    This is just based on my experiences and reading, but only waiting 5 minutes to touch dry on a primer seems far too rushed. The scratching could be because the paint didn't have time to adhere to the primer or primer to adhere to the plastic.

    I'm no expert, barely novice.

    On that note, I've been reading alot on top coats on bare HG and RG kits. I've had mixed results with testors lacquer clear coats before, but has anyone experienced brittle or cracking pieces on HG / RG parts using lacquer testors or model masters top coats?

  6. #2271
    Quote Originally Posted by justicebeaver View Post
    I'm really far from an expert, but I would say you definitely did not allow enough time for your primer to dry.

    Generally, anything lacquer based you should let stand for sometime to "cure". Generally, again, 24 hour rule. Paints dry time vary depending on type and layer thinness.

    This is just based on my experiences and reading, but only waiting 5 minutes to touch dry on a primer seems far too rushed. The scratching could be because the paint didn't have time to adhere to the primer or primer to adhere to the plastic.

    I'm no expert, barely novice.

    On that note, I've been reading alot on top coats on bare HG and RG kits. I've had mixed results with testors lacquer clear coats before, but has anyone experienced brittle or cracking pieces on HG / RG parts using lacquer testors or model masters top coats?
    thank you for your reply! I tried waiting for 6 hours and it does result better. also, I tried to spray thin, layer by layer. it does produces smoother gloss result!

    never had any experience with testors (any kind) but to counter brittleness and crackling, I never painted in cold weathered room...


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