View Full Version : Ratfacedudeguy's WIP-It-Good Thread

September 24, 2012, 2:48 PM
Hey guys. Seems like a WIP thread is what all the cool kids are doing these days, so I reckon I’ll jump on the bandwagon and join in the fun.
Today’s project is the Glorious Series 1/60 scale Gouf. As many of you already know, I actually built this thing about a year ago, but an abundance of unsightly clip marks and a desire for a more refined end product has prompted me to bring it on home. Because of the nature of the Glorious Series models, this project will be a multifaceted one with some interesting workarounds to a normal workflow necessitated mainly by the extensive wiring. So to briefly outline the project, the steps I’ll be taking are as follows:
-Clean up all ungodly clip marks
-Manage wiring to reduce visibility with armor in place
-Solder all electrical connections to eliminate annoying flickering and dimming of the LED lights
-Apply a wash to panel line as appropriate
-Gloss coat all clear parts to enhance clarity and in turn enhance brightness of LED lighted points
-Coat all outer armor with matte finish topcoat
-Do other cool stuff as needed

The first 3 steps in this process have been completed in their entirety, so I’ll pick it up from yesterday, where my main project was flat coating all previously panel lined parts. But before I do that, I should show you guys what Mr. Gouf is looking like at the moment (taken at my lunch break today – gotta love living only 2 miles away from work!):

With that being said, on to the clear coat extravaganza!

Remember kids, safety first!

In another thread I’ve been complaining about a failed attempt at flat coating some of the parts causing a frosting effect. Here are the rest of the parts, soaking in their Super Clean bath. After a successful experiment last night, I will more than likely take all of these parts out and instead switch to using Easy Off heavy duty oven cleaner. The Super Clean just isn’t getting the job done…

And here are all of the parts queued up, waiting for the topcoat treatment:

I think ultimately that the parts turned out pretty well. Despite having far worse lighting, you can still see pretty well how the matte finish turned out:

I especially like the look of these two pieces right here. The first is the top half of the mono-eye enclosure, and the second one is obviously the top of the head.


To readdress the earlier statement about design-inherent hurdles, the two main challenges I’m going to have with that are topcoating the bottom half of the head, and less challengingly, the feet. The reason it’s going to be so challenging is because the wiring runs through the pieces and effectively prevents them from being removed. Unless of course I was to undo my soldering work and the rest of the electrical connections, but quite frankly I’m just too lazy. What’s also worth mentioning is that the electrical contacts are all made by these teeny tiny gold rings that you slide the contact points through (wires, resistors, LED lights) and clamp down on pliers to seal the connection. It’s a great idea on paper, but in practice you’re looking at a couple major hurdles. 1) The gold rings are extremely small, and therefore incredibly easy to lose. Or, worst case scenario, you knock the baggy off the table and have to go combing through the carpet for hours trying to find them, crying all the while. 2) The connection is not permanent and it’s pretty easy for them to slip out of place, which then sets you up for the needle-threading type activity of trying to slide the pre-smashed ring back onto the switchboard. So here is a picture of the dissected head showing the parts that are lassoed by the wires. Oh, and you can also see in this picture how I painted the mono-eye clear pink. It comes molded in clear plastic. Dipped it in Future for extra awesomeness:

And now on to more fun stuff. To revisit the last step of the project outline above, I found a couple things that I felt needed some extra love. First off, the thrusters on the backpack are molded in black. Not the best of looks as far as I’m concerned. So I picked up some Testors enamel paints and went to town on ‘em. Silver on the outside and copper on the inside (note the little copper prongs on the outsides – total bitch to paint, but a very cool detail!), finished off with some Future for extra shine.

Next, I felt like the foot soles could use a similar treatment. I went a bit crazy on the metallics on the inside, but I still think it’s way better than just plain black. You can’t see it, but the little recesses running throughout the sole were painted with Testors ‘Flat Rubber’ enamel, so it kind of highlights those inner details ever so subtle-y. I’ll try and capture a better picture with my real camera so you guys can get all of the details.

More updates soon to come!

September 24, 2012, 4:13 PM
It's looking really good man. I still can't believe that oven cleaner didn't eat your parts away.

September 24, 2012, 4:20 PM
looks good :) i am confused to crap on those shoulder caps and lower leg formation however, the structure is sub-MG caliber and that is really weird to me.

September 24, 2012, 4:24 PM
I've always wanted to see what this Gouf kit looked like internally and man that looks like a nightmare to have to wire up =/ but I am stoked to see someone take on this task and I'm sure it will turn out awesome.

September 24, 2012, 5:46 PM
looks good :) i am confused to crap on those shoulder caps and lower leg formation however, the structure is sub-MG caliber and that is really weird to me.

That is a good point you bring up. I think it's worth noting that the integrity of internal details was evidently not the goal in the case of this particular model. It seems like this and the Rick Dom were basically experiments to see just how many LEDs and nuts and bolts can be crammed into one model. Which is fine with me because it makes for a very unique building experience and I never take the outer armor off anyway.

The shoulder caps make a bit more sense once you've seen them on the completed model. The bit that's sticking out of the shoulder that you see in the picture has a ball joint on the end that's in the torso. All of the ball joints on this model with the exception of the fingers have this sort of sandwich mechanism where it's two separate square pieces that clamp down on either side and in all four corners they're fastened down by nuts and bolts (seen in the first picture and the one with the dissected head). I swear to God I wanted to cry while assembling at least one of them -- especially the one on the torso. My suggestion is to tape the little nuts down to the slots that accept them so they don't fall out and then pull the tape off when all of them are securely fastened. Anyway, to return to the shoulder caps, the inside of the arm actually has a second similar looking cap in there that the shoulder armor fastens onto, so to allow the shoulder armor a good deal of flexibility, I guess that was just a design compromise that had to be made.

Another thing I forgot to mention. The parts on the lower half of the head were not panel lined with a wash since I couldn't really devise a good way to let the parts set without Future getting all over the place. Instead I did it with a Micron pen over the raw plastic. I have to say it didn't come out too bad. A wash would have been a little more blendy and less bold, but that's just something I'll have to keep in mind if I decide to take on another kit like this in the future, and I'll have to remember to do it before it gets tied down by crazy wiring.

September 25, 2012, 11:15 AM
Quick update-ish thing. I decided last night to try and take on the clear coating of the bottom half of the head, the feet, and the torso. I got wrapped up with other stuff though so I didn't actually end up doing it yet. In the meantime, here's the Gouf skeleton waiting for treatment. Basically I just masked off all the electrical connections and LEDs. Last night ended up being pretty unproductive.



September 25, 2012, 11:23 AM
pink. It comes molded in clear plastic. Dipped it in Future for extra awesomeness:

LOL Looks like your cat has an led activated.

September 25, 2012, 11:29 AM
Lol, what can I say -- he has special powers. More than likely due to his excessive amount of body fat. He likes to lay right on my construction manuals and runners when I'm building on the floor too, and his fat belly will be big enough to cover the entire page. Drives me crazy! Funny story though. One time my fiance went to use the bathroom and his litterbox is right next to the toilet. She saw a little white speck sticking out of the litter, and when she took it out it was the little pilot figure that came with my MG Unicorn Gundam buried just up to his neck!

October 17, 2012, 5:35 PM
Long story short, the Gouf project was just pissing me off, so he's sitting back on the shelf half-assembled until further notice. I have set my sights on another project, however. I've been looking forward to it for a while, and I'm sure with my current plan of action, you guys will be pleased. Stay tuned...


October 17, 2012, 9:11 PM
OH man. So jealous. I can't wait to see what you have planned.

October 17, 2012, 11:32 PM
Well hey, after all the amazing work you've been cranking out on your 00 Raiser, I've definitely gotta set my sights high. And that's exactly the plan for this one. After hours of drooling over some of the Painted Build posts on the GG blog, a quick google search led me to discover Alclad lacquers, and the subsequent need to sell my soul in exchange for an airbrush and all the necessary fixin's. I figured, if I'm going to be doing the clear armor, the inner frame has got to be something special. So let me know what you all think so far.

Raw leg:










Side by side:


And my feeble attempt to capture the effect of the amazing Holomatic Spectral Chrome finish:


As always, forgive the horrendous lighting. These pics just don't do the incredible shine of the Alclad lacquers a lick of justice. I know it's far from perfect, but after many failed attempts I feel that I'm honing my technique pretty well. Of course keep in mind also that I've been airbrushing for about a week now, and critiques and suggestions are always welcome.

EDIT: Oh, and if anyone is interested in the colors used, the main parts are Polished Aluminum, while the highlights are Polished Brass, Stainless Steel, Chrome, Copper, and Holomatic Spectral Chrome.

October 18, 2012, 2:01 AM
Ho wow. That is insanely awesome man. Gawd this makes me want an airbrush even more. That looks so amazing.

October 22, 2012, 10:41 PM
Well, I was about to have some pretty sweet updates for you guys after a weekend of being sick with a cold and just building away... Two hurdles for the day: My CO2 tank ran out of air yesterday when I was about to prime the other leg, and I learned tonight that alclad paints and lysol spray do not mix. Fuck. My. Life.

October 23, 2012, 9:49 AM
Seems like a few of us are having some bad Gunpla luck lately. I hope you get to feeling better and able to get your paints worked out.

October 23, 2012, 10:48 AM
Thanks man. Yeah my fiance was just like spraying the bedroom compulsively and I didn't even think anything of it, other than the fact that the smell of the stuff was closing my airways even further of course. And then I sat down to work on it, and saw all kinds of black speckles all over the brass-colored parts! She felt guilty about it so her and her mom are going to go get my tank refilled while I'm at work today. I'll see if I can repair the finish by just touching up the spots because I desperately do not want to have to strip those parts and do that crap all over again.

October 23, 2012, 6:52 PM
I can imagine. I'm in a bit of the same boat. But man I hope you don't have to strip that entire leg and redo it. Best of luck man. And, thanks for the heads up. I'll ban my wife from spraying anything like that near the Gunpla.

October 23, 2012, 9:47 PM
Well thankfully I have some good news to report. It seemed to be only the brass pieces that were affected by the lysol, and they were all parts that could be removed without having to take a whole bunch of other crap off, luckily enough. So since my fiancÚ was nice enough to refill my tank for me today I decided to try and just touch them up instead of the whole stripping and starting from scratch nonsense. The results were decent enough to be satisfied with, and I gave them a good coat of Alclad Aqua Clear Gloss for good measure. I now have the left leg primed with black enamel base and they are curing as we speak. Extra care was taken in priming the chrome parts, so hopefully I'll have some even better results to report than before.

October 24, 2012, 12:54 AM
Awesome to hear man. Can't wait to see some more pictures.

October 25, 2012, 2:18 PM
Update! The second leg came out ok, but I honestly thought the first one was better. Either way, I'm stoked to have both legs done. Now I'm giving you guys the choice here (or I guess just you thwalker since you're the only one who seems to be interested in this thread...). Because of the frailty of the clear outer armor plastic, once it's on there, it's on for good. So I'd like to know, would you guys like to see the completely naked full skeleton, or should I instead attach the armor as I go? And of course, I couldn't wrap up this update without some pics!

Build progress so far:




Primed parts from Tuesday:

Ready for action:

Airbrushing setup:

Super pro spray booth:

Super pro dust cover:

Yeah son you can't afford this shit! Lol

October 25, 2012, 6:30 PM
That is indeed a very hard choice to make. Now I assume you're talking about the special clear armor parts you got for it. If what you say is true that you can't remove once you put them on. Then I would be more inclined to leave it a bare frame. I'd still paint up the regular armor so that you could always take it back off to expose that beautiful frame work.

October 25, 2012, 7:07 PM
Yeah I think that would be the better way to go -- that way I could at least witness the complete inner frame initially before permanently sealing it away. I'm planning on using all the clear armor so the entire inner frame will be visible at all times. The reason I'm approaching it this way is because clear polycarbonate plastic is much more brittle than the usual styrene material, so trying to pry the armor parts back off after installation is just asking for trouble in the form of snapped pegs. They even have warnings on either HLJ or GSaM about being sure of your decision to commit to the clear armor for this very reason. I'm cool with it though. I'm not personally committed to the 00 design, so I'm not worried from deviating from the anime-stock finish.

October 27, 2012, 8:06 AM
I would have a field day putting that inner frame together and painting it. I'd be detailing it so much that I would be tempted to do a half complete model, half skeleton type of deal. Looks awesome, keep up the great work! (I need to get back to working on my projects; distractions with other hobbies at the moment...)

October 27, 2012, 2:46 PM
Thanks again for all the feedback guys. Now onto the next conundrum: To decal, or not to decal? That is the question.

October 27, 2012, 10:17 PM
Unless you're using custom decals like I used. There really isn't all that many decals to the 00. Unless the PG version comes with way more than the MG does.

October 27, 2012, 10:46 PM
It's certainly got a long way to go before it could be likened to a ver ka design, but it's got its fair share. I'm just unsure of whether the decals would detract from the appearance of the clear armor and metallic frame, as there are a select few that sit on the exposed pieces of the frame such as the knee armor. Then you run into the issue of whether or not the decal setting fluid would affect the metallic paints, but that's something I could test on my spare runner from the Gouf...

October 28, 2012, 2:27 AM
Testing is always a great idea.

October 30, 2012, 1:33 AM
Got let out of work at noon today for the hurricane and the power has been out since about 8:00, so tonight has been a very productive night for my raw frame build! Best part is work is closed tomorrow as well, so I'll have some rockin' updates for you guys in the manana!

October 30, 2012, 12:41 PM
Nice, can't wait to see the updates.

October 30, 2012, 2:54 PM


Having power out is no fun, but sometimes you just gotta take the good with the bad.

Speaking of which, I found out that one of the GN drives is defective. When I press the switch instead of doing the awesome spinny thing with the lights they just kind of fade on for a second, the motor hums like it's about to do something, and then it just cuts off. Both of them were doing it initially, but I opened one up to poke around for a moment and then it was fine. Can't report the same for the other one unfortunately, so I'm going to try and get ahold of HLJ where I ordered it from and see if they can help me out.

Next up: weapons, and then the 0 Raiser frame.

October 30, 2012, 4:19 PM
That is one amazing looking frame good sir. I cannot wait to see more of this.

November 6, 2012, 9:59 PM
Wow that inner frame is amazing, you have some serious patients.

November 7, 2012, 12:23 AM
Haha, thanks but that is honestly my biggest downfall is my lack of patience. If I had taken my time as much as I probably should have, the results would have been far superior. It's cool though. For the remaining portions I plan on taking more time into polishing the base coats and really making that Alclad shine. The waist is prepped for priming now. All I need now is a good day above 40 degrees so I can get some work done.

November 7, 2012, 12:28 AM
Well I can't wait to see more. I plan on getting the PG 00 Raiser one day so seeing your work is really getting my thinker turning on how I'd do mine.

November 8, 2012, 12:46 AM
Well, unfortunately the updates might be scarce for the time being. The weather is not on my side for painting and my attempt at making a spray booth didn't really work out. Just went down to the basement and it still smells like lacquer thinner. Oh well. Maybe I'll just focus on raw builds and maybe start a new project until I get more cooperative weather.

November 8, 2012, 11:07 AM
Sucks to hear that man. Have you tried making one out of a huge Rubbermaid container? I had a drawing detailing how you can turn a huge plastic Rubbermaid Container into a spray booth for little to no extra cost.

November 8, 2012, 11:17 AM
Actually that's exactly what I used. Fact of the matter is, my house is just not a spray booth type of environment. Building it was no problem. Proper implementation is another story.

November 8, 2012, 1:12 PM
I feel your pain. It's getting cold here as well and though I can paint in the garage with DIY spray booth, it gets really cold in the garage. I can't do it inside the house either because we never turn the heater on and I don't want to know what will happen when I paint in 40-50 degree temperature.

At the very least you can use this downtime to plan things for when you're able to paint again. For me, I'm spending the time preparing the parts for my back-log. De-nubbing, sanding, washing, and probably custom panel lines on four kits (three are MG) should be enough to stay busy.

November 8, 2012, 1:27 PM
Well after some more investigation I've discovered that the window that I was using is sealed with plexiglass from the outside. My fiancÚ and I love with her mom in what used to be her mother's house, and I understand she used to be a very paranoid woman. I scouted the remainder of the basement windows this morning and none of them are sealed, so I'll do some rearranging and see if that works any better. Granted all the other windows are in extremely inconvenient locations, but hey, a good challenge is what makes a project worthwhile right?

November 8, 2012, 1:30 PM
This is very true. A good challenge is always good.