View Full Version : GM Custom WIP

September 12, 2012, 1:22 PM
GM Custom WIP


I purchased this kit about two months ago when I saw it on sale from Amazon. I couldn't pass it up, and I can
see why the price was low. The kit is nice, but it doesn't have very many defining
features like a gundam- after all, the GM was a mass produced grunt that was probably destroyed in droves.

Kit cost plus shipping: $21
Materials: $15 [carried over from previous kit costs]
Labor: @$5.89 an hour
ETA: about 15-20 hours of work [max]
Estimated Kit Value: $129

I add labor costs to my kits to increase their value. For insurance purposes, if for some blasphemous reason I
lose the kits in a fire, tornado or volcanic eruption, the company will restore the materials costs plus the kit
purchase price . I had an issue moving
state to state [800mi] where a lot of my models were packaged poorly and were severely damaged. From now
on, I keep an excel spreadsheet of costs, time spent per session, and what I did to the kit. For the exact reason
of the "moving fiasco", I now custom build transport boxes that will survive up to 2000 miles [actually tested].

[B]Goals and Aspirations
I like the look of this grunt kit. I like GMs and GM look-a-likes such as the Jesta, which I want to build badly. This
kit is molded in a baby blue, and I'm not really happy with it. I've warmed up to it after looking at the instructions
for a time, but I will be switching that color to a gunship gray. This kit has many locations which could use some additional detail. The side skirts are absolutely barren. I have never attempted to add pla-plate to a kit, so this will be my first attempt.

I originally bought this kit because it would be an easy spray and play [well, I don't play with my kits, I display them, but
whatever, I needed a word that rhymed], but I may end up doing some modifications to it to make it my first "Plamotaku
Custom". The seam line work isn't too bad, and I will make sure to update this thread with progress and pictures.

Any comments, suggestions or feedback are appreciated. :)

Brands used in the creation of this kit:
Guerilla Glue Superglue (http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-7805001-Super-Bottle/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354370177&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=guerilla+glue+super+glue)
Plastruct Weld (http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/UPCPriceList.html)
Testors Cement (http://www.testors.com/product/136633/3502X/_/Liquid_Cement_for_Plastic)
Testors Acrylics (http://www.testors.com/product/0/RC5930/_/Gunship_Gray__FS36118_Pactra_-_1_oz._Bottle)
Artists Oil Pastels
Evergreen Scale Models Strip Styrene (http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm#White Sheets)
Plastruct Sheet Styrene
Hobbico (tools) (http://www.hobbico.com/history.html)
Dremel (tools) (http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=2013)
Squadron (puddy)
http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/media/managed/large/sq9050.jpg (White, not green!)

All scratchbuild designs and plans posted in this thread are open source, so long as you credit my design. Thanks-

September 12, 2012, 1:40 PM
Work: 9/11/2012 to 9/12/2012

I'm sure many here can appreciate a messy work bench. In its current state, on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being "kingdom messy", this is a 4 or 5.
I've marked areas with sharpie where I want to add pla-plate. Still puhtzing around with what I want to do with that exactly.
Random photo.
I like the mold detail of the main weapon. I think this piece could really use some highlighting when it is finished. No plans to deattach the magazine.
Random area I have not cleaned up yet.

September 12, 2012, 2:15 PM
Looking good so far! I've never actually kept track of my costs per kit, though I've toyed with it. I'll be interested to see how this unfolds!

September 12, 2012, 2:17 PM
Nice project you have. I like the design of that GM. And I'm sure it'll look awesome with all that added detail and custom bits.

I notice you're using pla-plate. I've seen some people use it before and have been curious about it. What is it exactly?

September 12, 2012, 2:30 PM
fuzzy sticks!!!! lol...i use those quite a bit. waiting the progress of this kit, love the GM's :thumbs:

September 12, 2012, 2:45 PM
^ I'm sure Remus would approve of this project hence his profile image =3 I always enjoy a good GM I can't seem to get enough of them in any variation. I plan to get me in the 1/144 series this one, the GM Quel, the Unicorn Nemo, the Jesta, and possibly one or two more from the zeta or previous series.

September 12, 2012, 3:40 PM
I notice you're using pla-plate. I've seen some people use it before and have been curious about it. What is it exactly?

From my understanding, it means "plastic plate". I'm just using styrene sheets and tubular stock. I'll take a photo of it next time I am downstairs.

Unclere: I used to clean my airbrush with them, but then found fuzzy (*&^ in my brush >.> Had to clean it out. Occasionally I will use them to weather kits- for example, dabbing it or swiping it lightly to create the effect that something collided with the subject and scraped the paint.

I also want to experiment with bullet holes and beam saber marks.


I forgot to post this earlier- but I do build custom storage boxes for my kits. For 1/144 HGs... I will probably build one large box and transport multiple HGs in it, possibly a double decker. There is enough room in my MG boxes to double deck and fit some kits. The picture is a prototype carrier I built- it was not built precisely so I am hacking it up for wood for future carriers. If anyone is interested, I'll draw one up in AutoCAD and post the drawing plans.

September 12, 2012, 4:14 PM
Look forward to the finished product. GM's and their variants are by far my favorite Mobile Suits. If you really like them I would suggest the MG RGM-79 GM Ver. 2.0, may seem over whelming at first but it's and amazing build. Once I get mine completely painted I'll be posting about it to... so far I have the sensor unit on the head painted and some of the internals. Just need to buy new paints, brushes and fine the time!

September 17, 2012, 5:28 AM
I'll post photos in a couple of hours. I spend about an hour and a half toying around with one shoulder and the side skirt on the same side. Plastic plate was easy to sand and shape, especially making it flush with a #11 x-acto knife. With the shoulder... I wanted it to look detailed, but not too much like a lego brick. I think I succeeded. Remember, this is an experiment into some scratchbuilding :) I may also rip some handles off of the tree that came with my Zaku Sniper or old tank models, or make some myself. We'll see. I am still investigating what I want to do with the kit, but it's going to look fantastic when I am done with it. Areas that left "gaping and ugly holes" that showed hollowness or lack of inner detail were plated over. I am MUCH, much happier with that stuff covered up.


September 26, 2012, 11:46 AM





September 26, 2012, 11:47 AM





September 26, 2012, 11:48 AM





September 26, 2012, 2:41 PM
Looking pretty cool there man. At first I thought you put a lego piece onto the shoulders. The shield is looking awesome.

September 27, 2012, 5:07 AM
I'm debating on filling those tube parts (the "lego" looking piece) with putty. I'm leaning towards 75% yes. I don't want to go crazy with it, but I'm afraid that restraint may stifle innovation.


Squee in his thread here (http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/6730-WIP-of-Squee/page5) gave me an idea, which I probably would not have arrived at myself had I not joined these forums. I wouldn't mind roughing up the primer on the shield and getting some detail there that way. I'll mull over where else to apply the effect. Gonna borrow an image and link to his thread.


September 27, 2012, 6:24 PM
LOL That's what you meant? That was just dust that i didn't clean up before i primed to check for errors. I have since sanded that off. XD My shield is going to be nice and smooth. If you want a textured effect, try adding some sand to your paint.

September 27, 2012, 8:08 PM
I would probably fill them up as well. Unless you have a specific idea in mind for them.

October 16, 2012, 7:24 AM
Hello everyone!

I apologize for the lack of updates. A side model and Borderlands 2 got in the way of me doing additional work on the GM Custom. I still plan on finishing this kit. Here are some of the ideas I had in mind. I will actually use those tubes I glued onto the side and the shoulder- I decided to put missile pods on them! As for the shoulder, I might do some kind of BFG. Some additional ideas include a demounting mechanism for the BFG- If this GM has to move I want him to be able to jettison his BFG, like an armored core can. There is a cannon from armored core that I might use as inspiration. The BFG itself needs to be realistic. If I strap a 0.5" barrel on his shoulder, chances are when he goes to fire that, he will begin spinning in space. I doubt his thrusters will be able to counteract that, and the forces exerted on the frame would be massive. I think a 400mm barrel will suffice. That is 5x the size of the 90mm bullpup rifle. The barrel folds up, but in this scale it will be VERY difficult for me to model a hinge so small on a tubular piece.




kow-a-bunga dude! Sorry had to make that reference.


edit- oh for craps sake. The pics didnt come out of hotmail mail correctly. fixing... there seems to be a scaling issue. I have a plan B.

October 20, 2012, 6:24 AM

This is the grenade launcher in question that I remember from the armored core series. The folding barrel is going to be a challenge, but not if I build the barrel into a square, and hinge it that way. The attachment mechanism to the GM will have to be completely redesigned. I want a simple pin mechanism that can be jettisoned at a moment's notice. As for the missile pods- I need to head downstairs and get a ruler to measure heavyarms' missile pods, but it is early in the morning and I don't want to wake the old folks up. The barrel in question is 800mm in diameter in 1/1, allowing for a very large grenade to do its business. If you have ever used this launcher in the game, it is pretty devastating.

Conversion from 1/100 to 1/144:

(x)(0.66)= z

x= measurement taken
z= result

6:47am EST- I've drawn up an initial design for the cannon. I'll try and get something thru CAD once I have the dimensions. If I have my way, this cannon may be 100% articulate around it's holding pin.

6:51am EST- You know, the more I add to this project, the longer it will take to finish eh :p . I might look into a muzzle break to reduce recoil. I am sure the arm joint is strong enough, in a realistic scenario to eat some of the recoil. Hell, we could say this is a railgun with an explosive projectile.

7:52am EST- The first prototype rolling out of CAD. Working...
3708 <-- image

October 20, 2012, 12:33 PM
That will look really great when you get done with it man. It's nice to see someone that can do some CAD work.

October 20, 2012, 5:54 PM
The pin supports may be enlarged in the final version.


Know what I just realized? I can't fold up the barrel if the pin supports are where they are currently at. Ah well. Easy fix for 3.0. The portion of the barrel behind the coupler and the rearward box can be lengthened, allowing for better geometry (so this guy doesn't slouch forward over time).

November 13, 2012, 6:08 PM

3.175 mm <-------> 1/8" stock or tubing.

November 22, 2012, 1:13 AM
As the holidays roll around, building model kits has entered into the front of my mind again. Back to work on the GM Custom.

I filed down the rifle scope today and made the decision to mount one large missile pod onto the shoulder. I forgot to scale the dimensions, and ended up with a 1/100 rocket pod instead- so I went with a more conservative approach to the armament. Building the missile pod was a success- it was a royal pain to get together at first, until I realized that plastic plate needed to be sanded of its glossy nature before super glue would work. I built a frame on the inside of the "panels" and began assembling it with the help of squared pieces of wood left over from an 11th grade woodshop project I did 7 years ago.

Some more filling and sanding is needed, then I can proceed to fine sanding. I am debating on how to work with the missiles. I can get them in there- but at what step do I paint them. I could try my luck at painting the tips, coating the bare plastic with a small dab of cement and shove them in there at final assembly (carefully), or hand paint them fixed. I like the first idea.


"quik" photos, I apologize for any blurryness. Death Metal has aided in the construction of this kit. The mock up of the missile pod was done with clay. Clay is a very handy tool. :) The missile pod is designed to be jettisoned, though I may permanently attach it at final assembly (so that I can get under the pod at the shoulder while painting).

November 22, 2012, 8:48 PM
This is turning out to be a really awesome build man.

November 24, 2012, 10:26 AM
It's a lot of fun. I keep looking at my shelf of gunpla feeling satisfied I made the switch to airbrushing. The missile pod needs some more filling and sanding, then it will be ready to go. He's getting there... as for the side skirt with attachment points on it- I have yet to design a grenade rack, so I'm gonna get working on that this morning. Originally I thought about relocating the beam saber to that location. I was thinking about putting an antennae onto the backpack but scratched the idea after I realized I didn't have the proper wire to do so. I also want to do some final modifications to the shoulders and this guy should be in paint within 1-2 weeks. Slow I know :p the devil is in the details.

November 29, 2012, 9:39 PM

I didn't notice this before, but the back left area of the pod needs some filling and work. Not a big deal. I've been busy working on GM Custom now, each day gaining more motivation to finish the kit as I see my modifications come to light. The pod isn't perfectly 90 degrees, but it looks just fine. I wish I had military/machine precision, but I have what I have in the shop- and so I do my best.

I am going to design a small grenade rack for the left side skirt. I originally planned on placing large bolts on the shield, but I may ax that plan. I decided that I am going to mix the paint job up a bit by painting a dark gray, then a lighter gray for some areas, including the inside of the shield.

This kit keeps falling apart in some places. The arm joints connecting to the shoulders are LOUSY, and will require sticky tack. I had to cut off an end to a polycap, which has made one leg loose. I can fix it by cementing in the polycap, but I am going to see if I can harvest a new one from my spare parts.

The next task will be to clean up the missile pod, finish the missiles themselves, then work on the hydraulic pistons for the feet. Because I want an aerial/space pose, I am going to go all out and paint the boosters on the bottom of the feet.

November 29, 2012, 9:55 PM
That is looking and sounding, even better and better good sir. Can't wait to see more. You may have covered this earlier but I can't remember. But what are you using for all these custom parts?

November 29, 2012, 10:26 PM
Plastruct Plastic Sheet and Evergreen Plastic Stock. I will return later with more information from the packaging- I still have them :)

Plastruct Plastic Sheet (Plastruct Company)
Catalog # SSS-102
City of Industry, CA 91748
White Styrene Sheet
"SSS102 White Sheet; 0.020" thick (0.51mm) thick, 7"x12" sheet (177mm x 305mm)
5 Sheets $4.99 (abt 410 yen)
Hobbytown USA SKU PLS91102


Strip Styrene
223 round
3/32" tube
0.093" diameter (2.4mm)
6 pc. pack
Evergreen Scale Models
Woodinville, WA 98072
$2.99 for 6 (abt 246 yen)
Hobbytown USA SKU: EVG223

Various sizes and dimensions also available

Hobbytown USA plastics scratchbuilding section (http://www.hobbytown.com/Category/Plastics/1973/)

When working with this stuff, I have found that if you try to glue parts together "as is" out of the package, they will not adhere. I tried Plastruct Weld, Super Glue, anything and everything to get them to stick together, and they would not. I then sanded the sheen off of the plastic parts, glued them together, and they would not come apart ;)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

BTTLDMG-101 Fundamentals of Battle Damage
Misc: http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/11328-BTTLDMG-101-Fundamentals-of-Battle-Damage

December 1, 2012, 8:46 AM
The past few days have been very productive on the project. A few things need to be done before the project is finished:

Fill in pits
Rough up edges
create minor pitting
seam line removal on the legs
final rivet on the back skirt/fill both
grenade rack
finish foot pistons
debate on whether to cover old display base hole and drill new hole...
Drill hole in wood display base for brass rod
wet sand all parts, 600 grit
mount on bamboo pegs (joints same color as the armor; weathered more heavily)
neutral gray in all panel lines; wire application
coat #1 paint
coat #2 paint (shadow)
gloss coat
wash, oil pastel
dry brush bullet holes and beam saber gashes
aluminum/steel paint chipping
final coat
enjoy model on shelf


December 2, 2012, 11:48 AM
Ideas/Comments/Like Proposed Paint Job Thusfar?


December 2, 2012, 11:58 AM
That effort you've put in that kit.


Looking decent.

December 2, 2012, 8:54 PM
If you're going to stick with just those two colors, I'd have to say that I'm not a fan of it. It could stand to benefit from the addition of a third color to keep the grey from overwhelming everything. Maybe cut it with black or a dark shade of red?

December 3, 2012, 8:57 AM
Note digested.

It's gonna take me a few days to sort out what I want to do with the colors. I love the fact that I have a cell shade in MS Paint, so I can mix and match colors until I am perfectly happy. After considering what I want and some additional input I agree- the job does stand to benefit from a breakup of monotony.

I like this color app better. What do you think folks? (tweaks at final product likely)


December 3, 2012, 9:34 AM
Auuugh, I was just thinking of doing a GM Cannon II in those colors.

December 3, 2012, 10:33 AM
Your GM will look great in those colors I think.

December 3, 2012, 10:42 AM
Looking pretty spiffy! I feel like the orange should be a smidge darker, but that's more personal preference than anything.

December 3, 2012, 11:18 AM
The GM Custom is a great Mobile Suit to add your own touch to. I think you've made a great choice in the MS selection as well as the color selection. On mine, I found that parts from it and the Gundam Alex model were the same so I was easily able to incoporate parts from Alex onto the GM. I gave it Alex's backpack for the extra beam saber and the right arm for the hidden machine gun. Here's a picture of the finished product.

December 3, 2012, 12:59 PM
Looking pretty spiffy! I feel like the orange should be a smidge darker, but that's more personal preference than anything.

I should have fudged with it in MS Paint, eh? :p The tamiya orange I am using is a little bright, so I do plan on toning it down a notch or two and see what happens from there. I still need to cell shade the front of this kit and see where colors should go.

Thanks for the ideas and input! At the time, the kit was at the top of my list on my buy/desire chart (which compares a value of price divided by desire out of 10) and robot4less had a sale on it at $15.00. Could not pass it up.

December 3, 2012, 9:03 PM
Working on color choices now, wrapping around the front.


It took a while to do this in microsoft paint, but I think the foresight going into painting has been valuable. Changes are still possible, and colors won't be final/etc until they are done. Let me know what you folks think. I think this scheme is a winner.


December 4, 2012, 5:07 AM
Further refinement: I took a break yesterday (RL stuff I had to do) and I will be working on the project today.


December 5, 2012, 8:05 PM
No work could be done today- I pulled the "pull string" out of the 1 of 2 lightbulbs in the shop >.>

Inquiring on fixing it. This is prototype 1.4 for the model move-ah-mah-box to store any and all models that can fit 6' by 6' by 6' maximum. Open source, dimensions will change for the GM Custom's box; the one illustrated is for my recently completed Zaku Sniper (http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/8055-Jfl0-s-Corner-%28Model-s-Inside!%29-Currently-%281-kits%29?p=38729&viewfull=1#post38729). Units are in inches. This wood (http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Composites-Boards/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbqmcZ1z11c8cZ12kx/R-100052498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.UL_z-HeOHy8) was selected from Home Depot, and can be cut there for a fee- but I would buy a hand miter saw and do it myself to save on cost. Dimensions for your boards will vary. Ex.) At my store, the width of the poplar/aspen boards are 1.5". This must be accounted for in the design process.


December 11, 2012, 1:09 AM
Well, it's been six days and I'm kinda getting impatient. I am going to inquire about when the electrician is coming over to fix the light in my shop. Until that is fixed, I cannot do much but work on my Panzer III tank. We are near the point of cleanup and final additions on the GM Custom before it moves into paint.

Related, I am working on an addition to my shelf this holiday season. I originally built this shelf to house my retro game collection +25%. It is now full. I have models in the shop I would like to move to my room. I am taking a duplicate shelf from the original design and I will move around the shelves. I may decide to drill in increments so that the shelving is adjustable in the future as my needs change. There will be 4 layers: The bottom will have MGs on stands, next HGs and RGs on stands, a small remainder shelf that will fit my 1/35 armor collection, and on top I will place the kits that are aerial on brass tubes.



units in inches. The shelf will not be 6 times higher than the thickness of said shelf. (7.5"*6= no higher than 45"; lower COG)

Sorry to say this boys and girls, but I am scratching the piston addition to the feet. HOWEVER, I have the design down on paper and in this forum topic for future use. The firearm is a Smith & Wesson M&P 22, and it was unloaded when the pictures were taken.

December 18, 2012, 3:07 AM
After a not so pleasant argument, my father wants to spend a bill or two ($100-$200) to have an electrician come out and wire this stupid light into the wall. The not so pleasant argument was an insinuation that I spent the last four of my years in a university doing absolutely nothing and that I knew nothing about load bearing systems.

(I am a mechanical engineer who also specializes in manufacturing). I designed a solution. The light is held at two points, at exactly 40 inches between said two points. The beams I would like to mount the chains to are not perfectly 40 inches apart. This means going back to the hardware store and getting a piece of wood To mount to three beams. That will provide ample room to line up the support chains. In addition, whatever is left from the stock cut will be cut in half and screwed at strategic locations so that the heavy duty (way overkill) ceiling hooks have more wood to grip into. The light is 8lb and the maximum load support is 120lb.

But no. I have no education whatsoever in machine design, load bearing systems, statics, strength of materials, dynamics or system design. Nah ah. None. Call an electrician to do my job because I am unskilled and inept.

I'll get this problem fixed tomorrow, and if he doesn't like it he can tear it down and waste $200. Hell, I'll even install that new box he wants above and near the workbench so he quits ********.

December 18, 2012, 6:50 AM
And here we have a classic example of why I have minimal contact with my parents. Sorry you have to put up with that, man. I definitely sympathize with you =/

December 18, 2012, 7:42 AM
It's a long, long story Asterisk- but I am happy and thrilled to get back in that shop, clean it up and finish this project! Once it is done I have a charity build I am working on, then it's MG Epyon, Wing Zero Custom and Sandrock EW (painted in OVA scheme) in that order, side by side with the charity project... Good stuff! This light is the bee's knees and is a vast improvement over a single little fluorescent bulb. This new light has two 4' tubes. Last 8 years I am told being on 6 hours a day (max).

I also see quite a bit of optimism in work on my bookshelf and other projects in the pipeline.

December 18, 2012, 9:29 AM
I've been through that same stuff Jfl0. But after I showed my dad detailed CAD drawings of what we were arguing about he caved.

You're projects are sounding pretty cool. And I'm jealous of that shelf of yours. You have quiet the gaming collection going on there.

December 18, 2012, 8:54 PM
Thanks thw :)

If you want the plans to the shelf I can definitely get a write up out there. They are simple and will take you less than 20 minutes to assemble. As for the shop light... it hasn't fallen down yet... again I was right and the load is distributed evenly. I even added a screw in the center! I can't get the screws in any further than they are in, but I think they are in there pretty good. I'll inspect it 6 months down the road and try and manually turn those things- but I don't think they are going anywhere. The light is fantastic and is enough to probably do photo shoots in the shop now!

Since the beams were not distributed evenly, I made one that ran perpendicular to them that attached AND gave me ample room so that the chains are perfectly at 90 degrees. It's sitting up there quite happily right now.

The only thing you can do is hope for the future... and make it happen with what you have. I wish I had full fledged facilities and equipment, etc. etc. and I think I will one day. But for now- stretching to the bottom of the coffer, I can make do with free stuff, recycling, and with stuff I already have. I love being resourceful.

I love retro games. Some of those games were rescued, others bought out of thrift. I restore and preserve them for future generations, and my own enjoyment. Sure emulators are fun, but nothing beats the real deal. My small collection is nothing compared to some of the monstrosities out there ._. I do what I can. If you can believe it, I built that shelf bigger than the collection, and it's grown to fill the shelf. Now I have to consider other options in a few months down the road.

December 19, 2012, 3:58 AM
Spent a couple of hours cleaning up the shop and getting it ready for use again. I did some cleanup work on the GM Custom and re-puddy'd some areas that needed it. All of the parts have been washed and are now drying.

I am kind of express finishing this, but I am not going to rush the paint job. I have until Christmas to finish this, so I can begin work on the Epyon post haste.

December 21, 2012, 4:43 AM
Not sure how to put a youtube video window directly into a post, but here is a model talk episode on the GM Custom: Next time I want to be showing it off in the show! Pics here of course, too. In the video description there is a directory so you can skip to some parts and avoid others you don't want to listen to.


January 8, 2013, 3:40 PM
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January 8, 2013, 3:47 PM
You know what goes well with Mac n' Cheese? SPAM!

January 8, 2013, 4:57 PM
You know what goes well with Mac n' Cheese? SPAM!

Funny you said that, I had that for dinner recently.