View Full Version : Wreeper007's build log

October 13, 2014, 12:40 AM
Decided to create a build log so maybe I will actually finish a kit or 12.

Starting with an HGUC unicorn. Only a few minor adjustments planned for it. Planning to buy the decals from samueldecals and adding in the little figure that comes with the rg Rx-78. I plan to have it on some form of hanger deck but it won't be a hanger scene per se. I plan to have the unicorn unarmed and simply standing on the deck with the arms slightly out to the side. Powerful and a little threatening is the feeling I want. The figure would be walking toward it. I don't plan to have any additional hanger elements beyond that.

Not a great explanation but it will make sense when I have it finished.

Usually I build my kits first and then disassemble to modify for paint. This time I'm doing that as I go.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7509CF3A-09D2-40DC-A0DD-6CFBB8E9EA42.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7509CF3A-09D2-40DC-A0DD-6CFBB8E9EA42.jpg.html)

So far the upper torso and backpack are done. Just basic putty work.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/849C84D2-D668-41D8-A9F6-0B2D679BE675.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/849C84D2-D668-41D8-A9F6-0B2D679BE675.jpg.html)

One of the things I did was leave the armor off of the shoulders. With it gone, I can rotate the joint and remove the shoulder connector. Just an easier way to paint.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/34BFC6BD-368F-4421-8919-352586A7205A.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/34BFC6BD-368F-4421-8919-352586A7205A.jpg.html)

I also made this. Much easier than laying the sprues on my table.

October 13, 2014, 10:47 AM
Some pretty good progress thus far. I really like that sprue holder that you made. Looks like you made it out of cardboard.

October 13, 2014, 10:48 AM
Coroplast. Yard sign material. I'm a large format printer so I have a ton of scraps.

October 13, 2014, 10:51 AM
Kinda curious to see what kind of putty work are you doing on the kit so far. I always thought the Unicorn/Banshee HGUC was one of those kits that doesn't really need it to look good.

The sprue holder does look interesting. I think I'll try making one for myself once I'm all settled in the new house and see how it goes for me.

October 13, 2014, 10:51 AM
Ah nice. I might have to start harvesting yard signs. haha

October 13, 2014, 10:54 AM
So far it has been the part where the upper torso joins under the arms (wasn't pronounced enough to be an armor gap) and on the backpack along the sides.

I'm also filling the hole where the bazooka connects to the backpack for storage. Since it won't be used I wanted it to be flush.

October 13, 2014, 10:57 AM
I glued the gaps, then sanded down, wasn't happy so I used some bondo spot putty, sanded it down then have a nice brush coat of surfacer 1000. Sanded that and now it's nice and smooth. Might do a touch up on one little section.

October 14, 2014, 6:45 PM
Just a small update from last night.

Finished up an arm, finished filling the hole in the backpack, finished a few little touch ups and reshaped the horn. It's not as sharp as it should be, and I may try re shaping it more.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/C4ED7697-301B-4A52-9B84-093FC6D4A6F7.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/C4ED7697-301B-4A52-9B84-093FC6D4A6F7.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/76ABB136-D8F3-40D6-89A1-2E3EEEF938C3.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/76ABB136-D8F3-40D6-89A1-2E3EEEF938C3.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6FD74C47-BD59-4A9B-A3E9-01AE0FD02E42.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6FD74C47-BD59-4A9B-A3E9-01AE0FD02E42.jpg.html)

October 14, 2014, 11:47 PM
I see now where you welding the seams. Hopefully they come out well when you start painting (or priming first).

October 15, 2014, 8:27 AM
Nice progress man. The welding looking good and smooth. I see that you're using a different type of hand there.

October 15, 2014, 8:54 AM
Yeah, it's the builders part one. The kit only has beam saber holding and gun holding, no closed fists.

October 15, 2014, 9:05 AM
Yeah, that's true. I always wish that the Unicorn kits came with more manipulator options.

October 15, 2014, 7:05 PM
These manipulators worked fine. I had to trim all the inner pegs from the unicorn hand covers (didn't like the ones with the manipulators) to get them to seat right, but overall they were nice.

I have the other 2 sets in order (slightly larger and smaller) just to make sure I have my bases covered for future kits.

October 27, 2014, 10:23 PM
Ok, update time.

I got the kit finished and only have a few minor (and one more than minor) issues to fix.

I had to modify the leg armor to fit together better.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/3912F601-C43D-4C25-844A-C2EC09F22F07.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/3912F601-C43D-4C25-844A-C2EC09F22F07.jpg.html)

Those 2 diagonal pieces comprise one of the connection points for the front armor. The armor kept catching on them and wouldn't seat properly. So I removed them.

Next up is one minor and the more than minor issue.

Minor - filling this part of the back skirt.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/704F8EB9-F49D-4F75-A76A-20783C8852EB.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/704F8EB9-F49D-4F75-A76A-20783C8852EB.jpg.html)

Not very easy but the part above the hips, just a little 2 part putty and it will be fine.

Now the more than minor issue.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/85EAE102-A976-459A-A1AD-F782C45B0943.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/85EAE102-A976-459A-A1AD-F782C45B0943.jpg.html)

The total lack of detail under the rear skirt. I have to figure out what to do. I don't want to leave it empty and I don't want to fill it smooth. Maybe greeble it up some. Or use some plate to fill it and do some panel lines. Just need to figure out how.

Final display idea.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/0675AA58-49B8-41E3-AA93-A89AE4602E80.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/0675AA58-49B8-41E3-AA93-A89AE4602E80.jpg.html)

I think I will have the unicorn looking at the stand in Banagher (the 1/144 Amuro from the RG Gundam).

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6FBE9C58-D03B-4590-ABE6-598F433004FA.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6FBE9C58-D03B-4590-ABE6-598F433004FA.jpg.html)

The wood board is there for a general size, haven't decided what I want to make the actual base from. Maybe mdf with a pla plate on top.

I plan to scribe tiles and have it like a hanger (but not the hanger sets) with a red line around the unicorn (a designator of where it should stand I guess). I have a couple ideas for the finishing, but that will be experimenting more than anything.

Anyway, that's it so far. Hoping to get the remaining filling and minor details done this week.

October 28, 2014, 7:34 AM
I'm really liking the idea for this diorama man. What if you got a system base and placed the Unicorn within it? Like it was in a MS hanger waiting for Banagher.

October 28, 2014, 11:18 AM
Looking forward to seeing your mods on the rear skirt. Always nice to add detail mods. Your ideas for the hanger sound intriguing too. Not often do you see a scratch-built hanger background.

October 28, 2014, 11:30 AM
Nice progress so far, definitely think the skirt mod is minor as you've mentioned but it'll probably look good once you're done. Any interesting panel lining planned?

October 28, 2014, 1:05 PM
I'm not planning to build framework or anything (yet, who knows). It's been difficult to find hanger examples since most of the good model ones use those hanger kits and the really good ones are almost fully enclosed. I've been watching the anime for details to add to the floor (like vehicles as the like) but I haven't seen anything.

Those hanger kits have vehicles, but they are 1/100 and seem kinda cheesy to me.

I wouldn't mind some scaffolding or something, but I worry it would detract. I kinda like the image of the suit by itself and Banagher. It seems more powerful.

October 28, 2014, 1:15 PM
And the skirt armor, I will most likely fill the top skirt parts, maybe throw in a wave minus mold or something.

The larger skirt I want to use some pla plate but I can't figure out a way to get accurate measurements without cutting out a piece and then sand-fit-sand-fit etc.

October 28, 2014, 2:15 PM
I have the same issue when I was doing my Playing with Plamo entry. I wanted to fill in the back skirt armor to make it, not so hollow. But I couldn't ever figure out a good way to do so.

October 28, 2014, 2:21 PM
I've seen layered pla plate used for other stuff (like front skirt). Basically a piece fills it in, then another is the detail part.

October 28, 2014, 3:04 PM
You can try getting some masking tape, put it on the hollow area, then trace the shape. That will give you a general template to use.

October 28, 2014, 3:06 PM
I thought about that. I need to fiddle with it some. I'm thinking I will just use some thick paper I'll steal from work. Easier to trim and cheaper overall.

October 28, 2014, 3:06 PM
Yeah something like painters tape and you scratch in the edges onto the tape too

October 28, 2014, 10:24 PM
So I tried the painters tape route. That was a no go. Ended up making about 6 templates, none that worked.

So I added some strips to bulk it up on the bottom and then started building on top.

Left over tracks and ice cleats from a 1/48 su-122, pump from a space marine bolter, half a smoke launcher from a space marine rhino, bit of solder and a couple wave option parts.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/CEDA36A0-FA3D-4D94-923D-AF6FB358032A.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/CEDA36A0-FA3D-4D94-923D-AF6FB358032A.jpg.html)

Not what I was wanting, but it's better than an empty hole.

And what you put the legs and other armor on.....you see only a fraction of it.

Oh well, it makes me feel better that it's there.

October 28, 2014, 11:42 PM
Any detail is better no detail and I bet that will look good once you paint it up.

October 29, 2014, 12:45 AM
Interesting definitely breaks up the hole. Interested in how the paint job will turn out

October 29, 2014, 7:29 AM
I agree with Dlinker, anything at all is better than nothing. I think it'll look really good once you get it all painted up.

November 2, 2014, 1:27 AM
Finished the rear skirt. Just realized they are not perfectly symmetrical, I may fix that, but probably not.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6863DB79-0DDD-44F2-8E3D-CDCAA528AD93.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/6863DB79-0DDD-44F2-8E3D-CDCAA528AD93.jpg.html)

I also widened the female ends to make disassembly easier (I'm glueing in the end, so loose is ok for now). I basically widen the hole a tiny bit. Makes it easier to disassemble. I do this while building since I'm preplanning all the necessary steps when painting.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/EBD01054-0044-4C66-97D4-81EC7BEBF8F3.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/EBD01054-0044-4C66-97D4-81EC7BEBF8F3.jpg.html)

November 2, 2014, 9:45 AM
Hmm interesting idea I might have to try it. I usually sand down the connector pegs to make it easier for disassembly, but I think your idea might be cleaner and easier

November 3, 2014, 2:10 AM
You can also snip the pegs at an angle, if you want something quick and dirty that achieves very similar results.

I think the rear-skirt detail looks pretty symmetrical.

November 3, 2014, 12:51 PM
I used to snip too, but I find this is cleaner and easier in the long run.

November 6, 2014, 11:49 PM
Small update, in the process of getting parts skewered and ready for painting. I need to grab some toothpicks and smaller skewers when I get groceries this week.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/319BF3E1-0C7F-443D-AAAE-9A3322105DEC.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/319BF3E1-0C7F-443D-AAAE-9A3322105DEC.jpg.html)

Good news though, my metal parts came in!

Got a bunch of frets of metal detail parts off ebay, and these rings were included.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/396A7D1F-91D0-4A0C-A383-EF4C245C03FF.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/396A7D1F-91D0-4A0C-A383-EF4C245C03FF.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/50B40FBA-D7DA-47F1-BAEF-B7CA082EA8E9.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/50B40FBA-D7DA-47F1-BAEF-B7CA082EA8E9.jpg.html)

The contrast will be really nice on the leg joints (I'll use them on the arm joints possibly, depends on how visible they will be when assembled.

Really liking the options these sets give me.

December 15, 2014, 11:01 PM
So the project isn't dead, I have just been fighting with my airbrush. Talked to a few of my club guys and got it working right again.

Which means I now have no excuse to strip my paint and primer and start again. Currently the unicorn is taking a bath in a nice bowl of purple power.

Currently I'm looking for something to build in my backlog, but I think I will just bring out my Galactica to finish.

The kit is beautiful, but lacking in a lot of detail. I bought the decal sheet for all the upper panels, but that would leave the spaces between the ribs plain. I have been shaving plastic rods and strips to greeble up the ribs. It just takes forever…...

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/783A2BCC-D1DC-475D-87FD-F45DEE91C937.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/783A2BCC-D1DC-475D-87FD-F45DEE91C937.jpg.html)

December 16, 2014, 11:18 AM
Ooh, that's looking neat so far. Kinda reminds me of the bumpy surfaces on a Star Destroyer.

December 25, 2014, 9:58 PM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/A133D851-0A82-4330-843D-F0C045CF316F.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/A133D851-0A82-4330-843D-F0C045CF316F.jpg.html)

After a soak in purple power and some cleaning I was able to reprime tonight.

Couple things. Vallejo primer does not come off easily. Too bad it severely gunks up my airbrush.

One of the really nice things about living in Louisiana (other than the food of course) is that I can walk out to my balcony and rattle can prime on Christmas Day.

December 25, 2014, 11:56 PM
Yea i've heard bad things about that primer. That battlestar looks awesome!

December 28, 2014, 2:26 PM
The primer is amazing, great stuff. Soaking the parts had very little if any come off.

But, cleaning it out of my brush was a disaster. If you don't do a full strip down/soak in thinner it will clog and make it unusable. I would rather have to buy a $3 can of krylon for every kit than have to deal with that.

The galactica has been a labor of love for over a year. Well, love might not be the right word, loathing maybe? Just time intensive and kinda boring in it's current state. Closer to march I will get into it (local contest).

I did start building my 1/72 dragon E-100 kit. I think the fact that I binge watched Girls ind Panzer today had something to do with it. Nice kit, easy to build with some nice detail.

- - - Updated - - -

Got the kit airbrushed last night. Still have to go back and sand a few pieces (all the ones that I didn't get enough of the vallejo primer off still have the splatters and bumps).

Just hit with a buffing stick, then paint again.

Otherwise, everything turned out just fine. Hopefully I will buff tonight and spray tomorrow. Then to let the paint cure before gloss coating.

- - - Updated - - -

Buffed, repainted, will need a couple touchups before I can start masking.

Now to figure up what is next.

I think I'm going to finish my NT1, it needs a coat of white and since I'm still spraying white might as well finish it.

I had to strip it because I used gloss white and that didn't spray well at all.

I haven't decided on what to actually build though. The E-100 is a diversion, not an actual project.

I could finish any of my shelf queens, or the galactica (I'd rather get a root canal).

I'm thinking it should be my MG Gouf Custom. I have a new idea for the dio, and the thought of painting something not white is appealing.

Along those same lines, I have MG Deathscythe Hell looking at me. Those wings…..

January 9, 2015, 11:44 PM
Gloss sprayed the parts, started panel lining and had to stop. I think I needed to put a second coat of gloss on.

Will fix that this week.

January 25, 2015, 12:20 AM
Gloss coat wasn't strong enough and the parts started cracking when I used the panel wash.

I have a few parts I need to strip and repaint. Not many but this project has been a pain in the ass.

I look at the kit and feel no desire to finish it now. I will finish it, but good lord what else will go wrong.

January 25, 2015, 1:11 AM
I know that feeling, man. Kudos to you for still trudging through it all.

January 26, 2015, 12:52 AM
Decided I needed a break from the unicorn so I pulled this outta my stash.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/71C5180B-7FC4-4509-81C3-5FF97E85D1B4-1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/71C5180B-7FC4-4509-81C3-5FF97E85D1B4-1.jpg.html)

Not sure why, but I've always loved this suit. I think it's the practicality of it.

Anyway, it's fairly straight forward. I got this far in about 1.5 hours.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/B761069F-CA72-4416-A315-E2CD28E0862D-1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/B761069F-CA72-4416-A315-E2CD28E0862D-1.jpg.html)

It needs a few minor modifications to make painting and assembly easier.

I shaved down the seams on the backpack. They will look like panel lines now.

Also, the booster legs have massive seams. Easy enough to fix, but there are radiator fins that need to be added to the bottom.

They are normally sandwiched between the pieces. I decided to snip off the tabs and glue them after painting. This means I can fix the massive seams.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/59912343-68AF-4D6A-B392-3BAC1EF095E5-1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/59912343-68AF-4D6A-B392-3BAC1EF095E5-1.jpg.html)

As far as detailing it, nothing major. Gonna add some PE thrusters to the booster legs, maybe add a few of the metal verniers to the chest side. Nothing major honestly. Looking for a nice simple build.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/CEDEA5FB-C012-4146-8B7A-BF2D02477A3E-1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/CEDEA5FB-C012-4146-8B7A-BF2D02477A3E-1.jpg.html)

January 26, 2015, 1:09 AM
^Very fun build. Your mods are very similar to what i did. Its a great distraction build, you can knock it out, even being painted, in a day or so. Are you going with the gatling gun or regular cannon arm?

January 26, 2015, 8:35 AM
I haven't quite decided yet.

I need to see how the Gatling looks. It looks like the top and bottom barrels will have a seam and I may not want to solve that one.

January 26, 2015, 11:09 AM
Any good source for a replacement monoeye?

January 26, 2015, 1:18 PM
IIRC, i took a PE circle part and just sprayed clear red on it and glued it on. The channel is so small its hard to find something to match. Maybe add a metal screw underneath the PE Part to make it stick out?

January 26, 2015, 1:28 PM
I was gonna measure the channel and see if any of the ebay eyes will work.

Funnily enough, I have its older brother, an original b club 1/144 dra-c, in my stash. Picked him up for $25 at a model show.

I partly want to build it and partly want to sell it. It goes for around $140.

January 27, 2015, 10:10 PM
Got finished snapping it together.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/A3F782C0-C177-4692-8333-6671DFC4295F.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/A3F782C0-C177-4692-8333-6671DFC4295F.jpg.html)

I've decided to use the Gatling with it. I figured out a way to mount it to the arm and I just need to finish tweaking it a little.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/089E7784-1A98-40F2-A925-B9C85FE53CA4.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/089E7784-1A98-40F2-A925-B9C85FE53CA4.jpg.html)

Also I decided to compare the HGUC to the b club resin.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/2E77DEB1-D2F6-4ADD-9F3C-AEAB6546B297.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/2E77DEB1-D2F6-4ADD-9F3C-AEAB6546B297.jpg.html)

Needless to say, the b club is much larger.

I've figured out the remaining mods I need to do. I need to add the piece on top of the chest on either side of the head with the holes drilled in, I need to find a suitable ammo drum for the gun, and I'm thinking of getting some of the photo etch find to replace te 3 thrusters on the backpack.

January 27, 2015, 10:15 PM
And, I need to fix the joints where they connect to the body. I don't like that massive hole.

I think I will put a panel over it, cut a hole for it and then use a wave thruster part to make the rounded opening.

January 27, 2015, 10:19 PM
Looks good. Do you have a color scheme planned out for this guy?

January 27, 2015, 11:08 PM
I'm thinking either this color blue (with the tips of the leg boosters and maybe other select panels a more gray shade) or grey like the ones from the zeta films.

Luckily I have some decals that should be ok to use for the few needed emblems and then some generic warning decals.

I think I will try chipping some on this.

I have the vallejo chipping medium I've been wanting to try. I will most likely paint the entire suit a lighter color than what I plan, apply the medium, then paint the color I want and then add the metal parts if needed.

I've never liked the metal only chipping, it looks unnatural.

I'm liking the parts separation on this kit, painting should be easier than the cursed unicorn. I haven't decided what to do about the thrusters on the shoulders or the mono eye (the channel is only about 1mm wide). I could possibly use one of the wave parts I have here. I have one that will work, but it's figuring out how to paint it. I might have to pin it because of how tiny it would be.

The more I look at it, the more I'm really liking this kit. It's a nice easy build, the distraction I desperately needed.

March 25, 2015, 9:42 AM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/cygnar/C01B40BA-E8BE-4381-B5F2-FDD89EDC5785.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/cygnar/C01B40BA-E8BE-4381-B5F2-FDD89EDC5785.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/cygnar/4E0AB7F9-315A-4BBC-A8E4-9215FD3FBA52.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/cygnar/4E0AB7F9-315A-4BBC-A8E4-9215FD3FBA52.jpg.html)

I've started working on my cygnar army for the local war machine group that is starting up. The plastic is different and I'm not a fan of it, but the metals are fantastic.

The big guy was my test paint so I could figure out the process for the rest of the war jacks.

March 25, 2015, 11:23 AM
Those are looking really nice. How long does it usually take you to complete a miniature like those in the second pic? I tried my hand at a single Space Marine miniature a few weeks ago and it took me longer than expected just to get it looking ready for priming.

March 25, 2015, 12:59 PM
The big guy was this crappy plastic. I got rid of most the flash but didn't care to get rid of it all. It is a gaming mini after all.

The 3 figures are one piece metal, they still have some flash but it's mostly hidden.

Painting has taken a few days, maybe 6 hours total, not counting wash trying time.

Some of that was just figuring out the color pattern and process.

March 25, 2015, 1:00 PM
But I've cranked out one piece bones minis for D&D in about 2 hours.

March 25, 2015, 1:38 PM
Good to see it's normal to take a while on them. I found that removing mold lines takes the longest. Granted, these are small so it really doesn't take too long compared to, say, an MG kit with lots of mold lines, but there is so much detail to avoid removing accidentally that it can be a drag.

March 25, 2015, 3:48 PM
The size is the biggest issue.

I've found, for mold lines on war gaming minis, that a needle file works best. Couple quick passes then brush a little tamiya extra thin to smooth it out.

March 25, 2015, 5:03 PM
Been wanting to try out that method of using extra thin plastic cement to smooth out areas. Needle files do seem like the best option considering the size.

April 6, 2015, 5:26 PM
Decided to knock this guy out this weekend.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/67FE8752-31F9-4BDB-88A1-331D003A481E.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/67FE8752-31F9-4BDB-88A1-331D003A481E.jpg.html)

Straightforward build.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/95A96549-136D-4620-A303-BBF22B146591.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/95A96549-136D-4620-A303-BBF22B146591.jpg.html)

Painted with a lightened panzer grey, details hand painted, tracks nato black with a steel drybrush.

These are the planned pigments to use for weathering, but I have some filters and washes coming from AK interactive that will speed things along.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/3208E680-0F9E-4E7D-BB5C-E0DAD528B309.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/3208E680-0F9E-4E7D-BB5C-E0DAD528B309.jpg.html)

April 6, 2015, 10:24 PM
What kind of tank is that?

April 6, 2015, 10:30 PM
What kind of tank is that?

It says on the instruction manual. :D


But for the history; it was a prototype heavy tank designed for the German army following Adolf Hitler's rise to power. Only five of them were built and they weren't very successful.

April 6, 2015, 10:38 PM
Ah, so it's an Inter-War design. It certainly does look funky. I think my favorite German tanks to come out of WWII would have to the Panzer IV and the Panzer V "Panther".

April 6, 2015, 11:40 PM
It's the neubau-fahrzeug Nr.2.

Prototype heavy tank from the late 30's.

Not effective as a tank, so it was used in propaganda.

I'm planning to weather it but I will keep it light, planning to note it's propaganda usage.

Nice little kit. The fenders had to be glued on as there was no way to paint them separately. Which sucks for the tracks.

April 28, 2015, 2:30 AM
I finished painting this up.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/6B1742CE-888F-418A-9DD3-B820C75EE89E.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/6B1742CE-888F-418A-9DD3-B820C75EE89E.jpg.html)

I applied the decals to it, and couldn't get them to settle down. Apparently future and microset/sol don't get along well.

Decided to sand, repaint and try again. Still used the microset/sol, just used the vallejo gloss coat.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/E41D261C-5526-4423-A67D-46657774A467.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/E41D261C-5526-4423-A67D-46657774A467.jpg.html)

As you can see, I didn't do a great job sanding.

I decided to try the ak interactive wash/filter/grime set for panzer grey.

Started with a selective wash, followed by the filter and then some grime.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/7734557F-1EEC-43D2-9BB3-77598D16E0DD_1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/7734557F-1EEC-43D2-9BB3-77598D16E0DD_1.jpg.html)

Not a fan of the change in the color (I think I did something wrong, it became too green. Maybe an interaction I don't know about?). The grime looks pretty good.

It was about this time that I decided the kit was a lost cause, so I decided to make it a weathering mule. Might as well try the techniques to get a feel for them.

Next up were pigments. I was a little too heavy handed for my original purpose. A little goes a long way.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/F20B134C-ABD7-46CD-B346-C3767C64D22C.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/F20B134C-ABD7-46CD-B346-C3767C64D22C.jpg.html)

What I did was start by dusting dry. Then I used a little alcohol and made a paste and glopped it on.

This had several effects. If the mixture was very thin, it left a nice thin layer of dust, just a little texture. This was perfect for the rust on the exhaust pipe.

Thin it more and you can make some nice streaks. The downside (for me) was the more I worked it the more the alcohol bit through the matte coat and got to the paint.

This luckily was ok because it was where dirt and mud were, so yay texture!

If you added more pigment and less alcohol you got a slightly damp paste that when dabbed on with an old brush it had some volume.

I was using alcohol because when it dries it acts like a binder and makes the pigments stick.

I will try to knock the effect down some with a toothbrush, but I'll chalk this up to learning new tools.

I have some ideas for using these in the future with gundams.

Chipping medium on a dra-c, the wash/filter/grime on a 2.0 zaku II, same thing on an mg gouf custom.

Still a little work left (mainly the tracks).

I might try using matte varnish for the binder next. I think it will be less aggressive and give me more working time.

April 28, 2015, 11:17 AM
Third pic does look pretty nice with the grime and the change in color didn't look too bad. It will be interesting to see how the rest of your experiments progress.

April 28, 2015, 11:42 PM
I need to take a toothbrush to the sides to try to knock down some of it.

I'm thinking I might build the Zaku ii 2.0 so I can use the od green set.

May 10, 2015, 5:55 PM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/9A2D0613-E365-4094-A6B5-D29CF3FDDFAA.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/9A2D0613-E365-4094-A6B5-D29CF3FDDFAA.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/94190FEF-7975-41DB-AFFA-ED084AA7E813.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Neubau-fahrzeug%20Nr%202/94190FEF-7975-41DB-AFFA-ED084AA7E813.jpg.html)

Done, not happy but I learned a lot going forward.

May 10, 2015, 7:27 PM
oh wow that thing turned out very nice. its so rusty lol

May 11, 2015, 11:02 AM
^ Same impression I got, but I'm wondering now if that was the goal or if he was going for a muddy look. Looks great regardless, though.

May 11, 2015, 1:04 PM
I'm using my phone for the images, and I was hoping that the white coro in the back would act as a white balance but it didn't work right.

It isn't rusty, and I just adjusted the images to look closer to the real colors. I think I used a little too much red pigment in the mixture I did for the upper hull. Oh well, this whole thing was a learning experiment.

I'm moving on to my DRA-C. Wanting something easy this time. Only planning on a few metal detail mods and maybe some chipping, haven't decided on that yet.

Best part is there are only about 6 sub assemblies that require any form of seam filling.

May 14, 2015, 11:29 AM
Decided to work on my dra-c.

I'm in the middle of stand alone complex second gig so I moved my modeling desk to my computer for the moment.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DA1EB61C-B4B1-4177-B8F2-6D0BEEACE264.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DA1EB61C-B4B1-4177-B8F2-6D0BEEACE264.jpg.html)

Not doing much additional work. Added some pla plate to the under skirt to get rid of a seam I'm too lazy to fix, and to replace some detail on the shoulder. The shoulder has drilled detail but I have decided if I'm gonna do that or not.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/309CFF13-C69E-4DD3-8DED-D3EB46BA6964.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/309CFF13-C69E-4DD3-8DED-D3EB46BA6964.jpg.html)

I'm also adding some metal verniers in a couple spots. Still wondering how I'm gonna glue them but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get there.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/FBA9F9DC-14B4-4BDB-9CF1-C5D7BD16907F.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/FBA9F9DC-14B4-4BDB-9CF1-C5D7BD16907F.jpg.html)

I'm also adding IC pins to the thrusters.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/635FE581-B1D5-4655-9CE6-AE2F107EC3E4.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/635FE581-B1D5-4655-9CE6-AE2F107EC3E4.jpg.html)

May 14, 2015, 2:54 PM
Really nice work good sir.

May 17, 2015, 6:09 PM

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DA6CADED-D881-45DC-A09F-A1BD829F6B94.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DA6CADED-D881-45DC-A09F-A1BD829F6B94.jpg.html)

Added this to the front of the legs. It's the inner part of the 2 part metal Vulcan upgrade you can get on ebay (1.8mm version). This part needed a little detail and I liked how there were grooves on this piece.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/98FB6795-9FE7-4832-9ED7-0F561B8CAAB7.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/98FB6795-9FE7-4832-9ED7-0F561B8CAAB7.jpg.html)

Continuing on the legs I added small thin pieces of plaplate to the edges of the thrusters. This served 2 purposes, to break up the legs a little and to hide a seam that was complicated but not worth fixing.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/1DF414E7-FD5E-425F-8D85-CB9DA9E99A61.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/1DF414E7-FD5E-425F-8D85-CB9DA9E99A61.jpg.html)

Finished under the skirt. With no skirt armor this area is really exposed. A few pieces from the wave option system and we're good.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/CAC7F948-133F-45F9-A2E2-926799D1E71D.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/CAC7F948-133F-45F9-A2E2-926799D1E71D.jpg.html)

Decided I hated the little gun it came with, so I rejiggered the big gun. I added a band of plaplate to the mating area because I could t get it square and it covers the mistake. I plan to make a small piece that will fit over the top and cover the join point of the band and where the arm fits in. My inspiration is the p-Bandai Drac from unicorn. It did a similar thing with the gun.

I plan to make some small fuel tanks to fit under the backpack where there is a big empty space. Sadly I don't have small enough wave tanks that wouldn't be obnoxiously long, so I'm planning to build them. I have a neat idea how too.

- - - Updated - - -


That is the inspiration for the tanks, link here (http://gundamguy.blogspot.it/2012/06/1144-hguc-ms-21c-dra-c-custom-build.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+blogspot/YwGGX+(GUNDAM+GUY)&utm_content=Google+Reader)

June 10, 2015, 12:24 AM
Decided to paint up a few of my bones minis (starting a new D&D campaign always puts me in the mood to paint my characters mini).

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Random%20Minis/FB601EA2-A2AB-4182-8474-BCD3B8B66778.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Random%20Minis/FB601EA2-A2AB-4182-8474-BCD3B8B66778.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Random%20Minis/C67F0632-A575-4D46-8703-175A63B64E2A.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Random%20Minis/C67F0632-A575-4D46-8703-175A63B64E2A.jpg.html)

That's Kronk, incredibly strong and seeking glory but pretty dumb. Think Klingon but not allowed to touch buttons.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Random%20Minis/0C32DA55-C699-4343-A2E9-1080E743D4B5.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Random%20Minis/0C32DA55-C699-4343-A2E9-1080E743D4B5.jpg.html)

My girlfriend plays a bear Druid, so I needed a bear mini.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Random%20Minis/0410C80C-3EE0-4B09-9A35-0FE3DC7CD779.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Random%20Minis/0410C80C-3EE0-4B09-9A35-0FE3DC7CD779.jpg.html)

And this guy I've just started on. Planning to keep the skin this sickly pale (I've done more since this image, mainly a green wash and a drybrush for the skin, and the base color and wash for the leather).

June 10, 2015, 3:45 AM
Damn! How in the world do you paint those little things? If I tried doing that, I'd get severe eye strain. :o

June 10, 2015, 12:54 PM
Some nice work there.

June 11, 2015, 4:51 PM
A good brush and a steady hand.

It helps that the details are fairly pronounced.

I basically lay down the base coats as clean as possible the apply a wash.

The wash adds depth to the model and fills in corners (where I might not have been perfectly on). Helps hide the allusion.

Then it's a drybrush of the base color to bring another layer in.

After that it's just detail work. For a D&D tabletop look, base/wash/drybrush/details is more than enough to look good.

June 11, 2015, 4:51 PM
And thanks yall

June 11, 2015, 9:47 PM
I have the new Robotech RPG Tactics game so I'll be knee deep in minis soon. Might post them to my WIP thread even though they aren't model kits, they are still Mecha.

October 1, 2015, 1:22 AM
Finally got time/inclination to do some work.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/79A2D455-6791-4577-8CED-71332E8DE20E.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/79A2D455-6791-4577-8CED-71332E8DE20E.jpg.html)

A better image of the underskirt detailing.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/11CC862E-4705-4BD5-8A25-795A3258ABFF.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/11CC862E-4705-4BD5-8A25-795A3258ABFF.jpg.html)

I tried to do the trademark 5 circles on the top pieces but they ended up looking like crap. So I left 3 and added a wave o vernier that will house an IC pin when the model is all done. The other side just got some pla plate detailing that didn't show up in the photo.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/3F7A87E3-FF6E-4454-B4AB-0E82AF80BC74.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/3F7A87E3-FF6E-4454-B4AB-0E82AF80BC74.jpg.html)

The tank connection point under the backpack. I plan to drill and pin the tanks in there eventually.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DDFEFFCB-FBF2-491A-86CB-7514AB6511D9.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/DDFEFFCB-FBF2-491A-86CB-7514AB6511D9.jpg.html)

Turns out I did have tanks small enough. When you flip over the wave tanks there are several molded break points. Just snapped, little sanding and perfect.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/99B8FAAC-25AA-4B0D-9153-DB1BA54EBE6A.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/99B8FAAC-25AA-4B0D-9153-DB1BA54EBE6A.jpg.html)

Finally finished the gun. I might put a little detailing on top but I haven't decided yet all I did was cut a piece of pla plate, glue and the sand the edges to meet the gun lines.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/C1D3B812-9E1F-4F61-AEA2-31CAD8402D5F.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/C1D3B812-9E1F-4F61-AEA2-31CAD8402D5F.jpg.html)

I needed to hide a bad irregularity so a shell ejection port was added. I like these wave option parts. They are pretty handy.

October 1, 2015, 1:40 AM
That is looking very well done.

November 12, 2015, 1:31 AM
Finally got my remaining parts to continue work on the dra-c. Just a couple option parts to fill out the back of the backpack.

Took a break and started working on my MG gelgoog. Such a fantastic kit. I'm planning no mods, just a nice out of the box build and hopefully good results for the finishing. Planning a weathered grunt unit. Very little in markings and not too weathered. I'm planning to try my hand at preshading and mottling for have some variation.

Also, I'm almost done with this project.


I've finished transfering all my citadel paints to dropper bottles, I'm moving on to the tamiya now. The citadel was needed because the paints dry out bad in the pots, and droppers make it much easier for hand painting. Tamiya is 2 fold. There are set ratios for the paint/thinner and they take up less space in the droppers.

December 1, 2015, 12:03 AM
So updates.

First I finished building my MG Gelgoog. Building it as a straight grunt suit. Light weathering, minimal markings, looking forward to it.

I finished this project.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/Misc/89A51334-82CD-4F60-A692-D91679DE3A22.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/Misc/89A51334-82CD-4F60-A692-D91679DE3A22.jpg.html)

I converted all my citadel paint and my Tamiya paints to dropper bottles.

I had planned on converting for a while, but buying the paint racks was the final catalyst. I could fit 10 citadel/Tamiya bottles on a row, or fit 17 dropper bottles with the same amount of paint.

The droppers also don't dry out, which is fantastic compared to the regular citadel pots.

I also knocked her out over the weekend.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Infinity/B9576CFF-B24A-48B9-B551-5AD20A0415BC.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Infinity/B9576CFF-B24A-48B9-B551-5AD20A0415BC.jpg.html)

I finally figured out a paint scheme I liked for my pan-o.

I have one more of her squad mates to build before I start painting them all. Luckily it doesn't take long to paint, just a lot of waiting for washes to dry.

December 1, 2015, 11:03 AM
What model is that?

December 1, 2015, 12:40 PM
New paint racks look great! That mini looks awesome!

December 2, 2015, 12:07 AM
What model is that?

It's one of the neo terra bolts

December 7, 2015, 1:17 AM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Infinity/181D647E-E61D-4E3D-8C1C-1A58F52AB052.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Infinity/181D647E-E61D-4E3D-8C1C-1A58F52AB052.jpg.html)


December 7, 2015, 1:42 AM
Very cool.

December 17, 2015, 12:15 AM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Infinity/70C964DE-D840-4283-873F-D175DD0A34B5_24.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Infinity/70C964DE-D840-4283-873F-D175DD0A34B5_24.jpg.html)

Finished them completely.

Decided to do a little project using my new brush (Iwata HP-CS). Decided to do one of the Yamato 2199 mecha colle kits I had.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/Yamato%202199/EFCD0CB3-45F2-4003-9420-58C21062CCD7_3.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/Yamato%202199/EFCD0CB3-45F2-4003-9420-58C21062CCD7_3.jpg.html)

Just the orange yellow fade currently. I love this brush, such a step up from my neo.

Btw, the parts from the 2 neos are mostly interchangeable.

The siphon feed is a .5 needle, the gravity feed is .35. You can change the nozzle and needle between them, but you also have to change the front cap (not the crown, the cap).

The nozzle of the .5 is slightly larger in diameter, so air can't pass around it. I still need to buy the cap since I plan to only use the neo for base coating type work.

December 24, 2015, 12:31 AM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Yamato%202199/BB22B1E4-B6EB-4217-9BEB-691406ED1438.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Yamato%202199/BB22B1E4-B6EB-4217-9BEB-691406ED1438.jpg.html)

Just the update. Had to sand cause my spray was a little bumpy. Looks like 1/1 paint/thinner for Tamiya at 25psi is the sweet spot for me.

December 24, 2015, 12:49 AM
Those figures look great! The mecha colle kit looks great so far. I love the detail on such tiny ships!

December 24, 2015, 1:07 AM
I like them.

Couple of tricky seams to fix, but this was built and sitting in its box so even if I never show it it's still good practice for getting the airbrush down.

March 14, 2016, 12:31 AM
So it's been a while but life has stepped in big time.

I started teaching my first college class (photojournalism) and since I'm basically winging it each week I have had to spend time developing everything I'm teaching each week. That kills modeling time.

My local club was also supposed to have our contest this weekend, but that didn't happen (I'll explain later).

Since I'm one of the younger members of the club and have experience with graphic design and public relations I have assumed control of the Facebook event page and the graphic design needed for the show.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/Misc/F8B85DED-3C40-445C-8A1D-CF0B19591FD1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/Misc/F8B85DED-3C40-445C-8A1D-CF0B19591FD1.jpg.html)

Our sponsor display board.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/Misc/EFE2F756-4A56-4467-9A01-B6A2DCD6FCBF.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/Misc/EFE2F756-4A56-4467-9A01-B6A2DCD6FCBF.jpg.html)

Our $5 raffle board. $5 a ticket, you pick which kit you want to put it in and at the end of the contest before the awards we pick a winner. Currently we have over $700 in kits in the raffle.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/Misc/7B4D2C50-230D-43C1-B533-54EE76E6C2EE.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/Misc/7B4D2C50-230D-43C1-B533-54EE76E6C2EE.jpg.html)

All our categories for the show.

This took considerable time to do and we were all ready for the contest when all hell broke loose.

I live in north west Louisiana, and in the span of a couple days we received 2 feet of rain. 3500+ houses evacuated just in our area.

Those residents who didn't have a place to go needed shelter, and that just happened to be the civic center where our contest was to be held.

We've pushed it out to May (hopefully) with a date that falls nicely between the Dallas and Nola shows.

We also had a club member die over Christmas and we went to his house to clean out his stash and make it usable again for his wife to start selling.

Easily 1000 kits, mostly aircraft and autos.

It was a big undertaking but it makes it easier for her to start selling to recover the medical payments.

So needless to say, my model building time hasn't been much exactly. But I've started working on the ha drunk of shelf queen kits I have.

I just finished priming my dra-c this weekend. My biggest headache was a decision I made much earlier in the build to cover up the seam on the shoulder bells. Being unable to get a decent filling I recarved the panel line. It's not too bad for my first one but I'm not happy with it.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/E4AE7C6F-9DDC-4F8D-8799-5E7698C8E7FD.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/E4AE7C6F-9DDC-4F8D-8799-5E7698C8E7FD.jpg.html)

I also drilled out then3 thrusters on the backpack and added in some kotobukiya detail pieces.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/11DD7E3B-5C7B-44FF-A37B-D36DF3BF585E.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/11DD7E3B-5C7B-44FF-A37B-D36DF3BF585E.jpg.html)

It needed something instead of just the semblance of a thruster.

This has been primed gray and the blue parts primed with a light coat of Tamiya fine white. I didn't try to be too precise as a variation will hopefully serve to breakup the solid blue in the end.

Sadly my Gatling arm isn't going to be used. My build quality on it is subpar. It would only detract from the rest of the kit so I'm using the little pea shooter arm.

I also worked a little on my 1/72 Bradley. Picked this up for a few bucks and it's a pretty solid kit (except for the tracks, they're short but luckily the side skirts make only the bottom visible).

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/non%20gundam%20kits/Bradley/4ECF1188-983F-4DAD-9A5B-E0A6EFBEAAE1.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/non%20gundam%20kits/Bradley/4ECF1188-983F-4DAD-9A5B-E0A6EFBEAAE1.jpg.html)

March 14, 2016, 12:44 AM
Sorry to hear about the unfortunate storm and delay to your con. Just from that graphic of the categories I would be stoked to go.

March 14, 2016, 1:36 AM
wow sounds like your life went from zero to crazy in no time flat. and im in GA i wish i could go to your con. it sounds awesome.

March 14, 2016, 10:41 AM
Its a big undertaking but I'm hoping that the momentum from this year will increase the club growth. Last year hobbytown was only open for a couple months before the show so the community as a whole hadn't gotten over there. Their biggest seller other than rc is gunpla, which is why we added a straight build category to the show.

So much of our club are the older generation who look at the show as modelers only, while I'm looking at it as a general public show. Without younger members the club will die in time.

Atlanta had a model train show this weekend, one of our favorite vendors was there for it.

March 14, 2016, 10:44 AM
^That's something i've noticed with the increase of gundam at ipms events. Alot of the older generation is starting to acknowledge that if they want new blood, they have to be open to other aspects of scale modeling. It's great!

March 14, 2016, 12:14 PM
I remember reading on the ipms facebook page a member with a very similar frustration. It was about the journal specifically (which modeling magazines of the american variety are useless these days).

The jist of it was how are you expected to get new blood when every issue is the same thing. Here is a bf-109, this new tooled tiger, another bf etc.

The lack of variety in the publications coverage is striking when compared to the variety of kits.

Unless you are one of the mig publications, the spanish magazines or the japanese ones (although those are becoming a little dated to be honest. 15 pages of content 125 of ads) there isnt a reason to buy anymore.

We were given a year subscription to fine scale modeler to give away at the show, and collectively we were confused as to what to do with it. I had the idea of giving it to the winner of the junior/youth category (cause nobody else would use it).

March 19, 2016, 4:04 AM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/A7C58FA9-F529-418D-ADC3-5FD1E483F1DD.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Drac/A7C58FA9-F529-418D-ADC3-5FD1E483F1DD.jpg.html)

Got my dra-c painted up. Ended up discovering that I forgot to make the antenna for his backpack so I got that to figure out now. Probably just gonna order the wave option parts to replace it.

Also finally got my airbrush dialed in, turns out I need to thin my Tamiya a little extra (like a drop of so) for my style.

Ended up hating the purplish tone of the straight flat blue, so I make a 2:3:3 mix of flat blue, sky blue and lacquer thinner in a spare dropper bottle. Now I just pour it straight in and go.

Also found my forgotten model masters technical manual. Really great book on general modeling techniques.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/Misc/825D981D-CF64-4ED3-9BC8-5CD0EC9A4BCB.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/Misc/825D981D-CF64-4ED3-9BC8-5CD0EC9A4BCB.jpg.html)

March 19, 2016, 4:21 AM
looks like the Dra-C is coming along nicely. and that book looks good.

March 19, 2016, 8:09 PM
Ended up needing to do a little wet sanding and then res praying parts. Had some grainyness show up.

Sprayed the shoulder bells and didn't do a good enough job with the masking. I could spray the gray again and then actually mask it (instead of just using funtack) and it might work.

Ended up ordering both the wave sensor sets and 3 of the hiq metal sensors last night from hlj last night. One of them will work out.

March 20, 2016, 1:24 PM
I recently got a massive collection of Tamiya paints from a buddy who, with the addition of a beautiful baby girl, has put an indefinite stop on his modelling hobby and have never used them before. What is your experience with them in dropper bottles like that and do you prethin yours?

March 20, 2016, 5:14 PM
They work perfect in dropper bottles. Just add an agitator to them.

I don't prethin them. I only did the custom mix because it was gonna be used up in a day.

Use the same bottles for the thinners and you can easily recreate the ratios.

March 20, 2016, 6:42 PM
By agitator you mean like a steel ball or something of the sort that won't rust right?

March 20, 2016, 7:06 PM
I don't prethin my Tamiya paints, which are acrylic (they also make enamel paints, but I don't think they sell them in NA; they come in taller, thin bottles). I use them straight out of the bottle (after shaking and stirring of course) and that works just fine for me because I mostly hand-paint. You may need to thin them slighty if using an airbrush through, but that can be done with their X-20A Acrylic thinner. One thing I have noticed is that you may run into a bottle of white (flat or otherwise) that is particularly watery even straight from the bottle. This makes it hard to get full coverage on the first pass. You have to keep going over it.

March 20, 2016, 10:41 PM
With Tamiya the ratio of flat to thinner is 2:1, gloss is 1:1 I've found.

I use their lacquer thinner.

I hate hand brushing Tamiya because it drys way too quick. My favorite hand brushing is gw.

April 30, 2016, 8:58 PM
Welp, decided to gloss coat my dra-c to try to have him finished for the show next month.

Tried using the Vallejo gloss coat instead of my usual future. Bad idea. Sprayed like crap, all speckly and left a texture.

He's been relegated to the shelf queen drawer and will eventually be stripped.

Busted out my unicorn to skewer and get ready for paint. Had to fix a few parts that didn't react to the paint stripping well. Hopefully I won't have to do much for the other parts, but priming tonight will determine that.

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May 5, 2016, 10:32 PM
The unicorn sprayed up nicely except for a few parts.

The legs seemed to have the most issue. Basically the previous primer litterly bit into the plastic, causing some spots that needed to be sanded. Hopefully the second coat of primer will solve it.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/B193C5C6-BA4E-4866-AB26-7CBFB244B6C8.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/B193C5C6-BA4E-4866-AB26-7CBFB244B6C8.jpg.html)

There were a couple parts that had some damage (I had to soak some parts in lacquer thinner to get the paint off, and that was less than nice to the plastic). I had to reshape the bottom of the horn, fill in the sabers on the arm guards and this particular crack.

Filled with Tamiya white, had to sand some but it became really difficult to actually make good contact.

Then I remembered that Tamiya white can be thinned with lacquer so a w tip with a little thinner and got it somewhat leveled. A couple of brushes with surfacer 500 and it should be good to go.

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May 5, 2016, 11:11 PM
when you use the Mr surfacer thinned out with a brush tell me how it goes. ive been wondering how well that works. ive only ever used it in my airbrush.

May 6, 2016, 1:49 AM
I don't thin it, it's more like a more controlled/lazy putty.

Works decently well, not good for major filling but little things it's good.

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May 13, 2016, 12:57 AM
Repaired, primed and started painting the unicorn.

The gray went on fine (except that there was almost no difference in color, Tamiya gray is identical to krylon primer gray) and I had to mixup a few blues to get it looking right.

Started spraying the white and it was a little off. I'll have to wet sand a couple parts but other than that it went well. I'll finish the white parts this weekend hopefully, contest is next Saturday and I wanted him done.

Dallas is a couple weeks after that so maybe I'll bring him then.

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May 13, 2016, 8:14 PM
Yup, will have to sand down a few parts and respray, but overall they look good.

Tamiya white needs a little extra thinner than the normal ratio, good to know.

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June 10, 2016, 3:44 PM
Resprayed, looked at a few parts, decided they didn't survive well enough to be used.

Ordered another kit to take the forearms and the lower legs from.

Have to spray a couple of those but otherwise looks much better.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/3990D920-010A-4A7A-9193-4B08F549D486.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/3990D920-010A-4A7A-9193-4B08F549D486.jpg.html)

Everything gloss coated with future.

Found out I didn't spray enough on them, so they get a second coat tonight.

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June 10, 2016, 8:21 PM
You're buying new parts because the paint didn't turn out okay? You couldn't strip them?

June 10, 2016, 8:38 PM
The parts I replaced were ones where the Vallejo primer was incredibly difficult to remove. Lacquer thinner was the only thing that worked, but the constant stripping (this kit was stripped 4 times, plus the lacquer for some parts) made the details soft.

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June 10, 2016, 10:04 PM
Ah okay, that sucks. You're just another person i know on a list who have had kits messed up by that primer.

June 11, 2016, 2:16 PM
Krylon rattle can for life

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June 11, 2016, 2:38 PM
I'm not a big fan of that stuff. Kind of lays down a little too thick for my liking. I like a thin primer so that it doesn't risk covering detail.

June 11, 2016, 3:13 PM
Plus it's ok, I have another kit that I have a neat bust idea for, and some test parts for painting.

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June 11, 2016, 10:14 PM
Started decaling today, and ran into an issue.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7C82E888-3593-43D6-B07A-B31120FFA0D6.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7C82E888-3593-43D6-B07A-B31120FFA0D6.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/50F44D48-3441-4869-A437-4BE23F24E511.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/50F44D48-3441-4869-A437-4BE23F24E511.jpg.html)

The decals will lay down fine, but they're thick. Maybe the Japanese modelers know the proper order for the decals, they just can't get thin ones.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/B906AD81-2604-4CF5-B317-20FA499D2ABF.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/B906AD81-2604-4CF5-B317-20FA499D2ABF.jpg.html)

Ended up raiding my drawer for the decal solutions, from left to right are weak to strong. The only thing stronger is Tamiya thin cement. And that's the nuke it from orbit option.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7ED2C9A8-FF72-443B-97BB-321745F583E5.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7ED2C9A8-FF72-443B-97BB-321745F583E5.jpg.html)

These are the hiq 1/144 decals, you can see how thick they are. But they are printed beautifully.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/E462D3F3-C657-4767-83F8-423611A0BD96.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/E462D3F3-C657-4767-83F8-423611A0BD96.jpg.html)

The hiq (left) and bandai decals. These warning labels are tiny.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/10DB8F92-DB86-4AD3-BA2E-596AAFC4C5E6.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/10DB8F92-DB86-4AD3-BA2E-596AAFC4C5E6.jpg.html)

But they add a lot to the finished kit.

My solution to try to fix the thickness is to coat with future after the decals are set and panel wash, then lightly sand if the edge is still there. Hopefully it won't but what happens happens.

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June 30, 2016, 11:15 PM
http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/39BEFFA1-9FE9-417F-BF28-B0D804BE416B.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/39BEFFA1-9FE9-417F-BF28-B0D804BE416B.jpg.html)

Decals on, second gloss coat drying. I'll need to lightly sand the decal edges to make them flush then spray again, but I'm close.

Samuel decals are very thin, used a few on this. Very impressed.

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July 2, 2016, 10:43 PM

Panel lining while watching Origin III.

Now on to Evangelion 3.33.

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July 4, 2016, 7:27 PM
Welp he's finally done.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7377E3A8-8E4A-4222-895D-7ADEA648B38C.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/7377E3A8-8E4A-4222-895D-7ADEA648B38C.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/C831670B-0259-447D-91BA-F4B40D7890BD.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/C831670B-0259-447D-91BA-F4B40D7890BD.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/A7EFA40A-4518-4757-A118-D2740D77884B.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Unicorn/A7EFA40A-4518-4757-A118-D2740D77884B.jpg.html)

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November 11, 2016, 10:00 PM
Finally finished the Alex sitting in my drawer of forgotten kits.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/59B4470E-4A0B-4BE7-A540-7023A4A3E26E.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/59B4470E-4A0B-4BE7-A540-7023A4A3E26E.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/C4AE24EA-80CE-4FEE-9990-C067DF636FEB.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/C4AE24EA-80CE-4FEE-9990-C067DF636FEB.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/topher40k/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/F87B9C2E-9B19-4A36-B762-E3E2B170675F.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/topher40k/media/gundam/HGUC%20Alex/F87B9C2E-9B19-4A36-B762-E3E2B170675F.jpg.html)

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January 14, 2017, 2:02 AM

Built this guy for my local clubs group build. Fun little kit.

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January 14, 2017, 2:03 AM


So I'm gonna try to explain this wash technique I'm using now on my tie advanced.

The parts were primed with surfacer 1000, painted 1:1 tamiya xf2 and xf82 and gloss coated with future and left to dry for 48 hours.

The first image is after I painted on the wash.

This wash is a mix of the Tamiya enamel gray and black to get a mid gray. I'm using Windsor Newton artist white spirits (a mild enamel dilutant) for cleanup.

So you paint on the wash being as careful as possible to not get it where you don't want it. If you do it's not the end of the world it's just extra cleanup.

After you let the wash dry (maybe 15 mins) you can start painting away the excess wash with a brush moistened with the spirits.

Moistened is the wrong word. Tap the brush on the thinner then on a towel and you will probably have too much still.

You want to paint the wash either toward where you want it darker or in the natural way it would flow. On an aircraft that's the way the air flows, on ground mechs that's downward like gravity.

You may have to hit the towel to remove some wash because it will tint the spirit and turn your wash into a filter (not a bad idea if you are wanting to do that).

The 15 min rule is just to a workable time, I came back tonight after being gone 5 hours and I could still manipulate it.

This is similar to the q tip method but since you are painting away the wash you have a lot of control. Especially useful when trying to darken curves or areas that don't have actual engraved lines.

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January 21, 2017, 3:17 PM

Slowly but surely it's working.

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January 21, 2017, 6:48 PM

Finished up cleaning off the excess wash and then started fading/darkening certain panels and adding a little fuel leak here and there.


Then I started chipping.

I'm not sure if I'm happy with the chipping yet. It might be too subtle but I'll check on it after its fully dried.

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January 22, 2017, 1:25 PM
Chipping needs a bit more i think and maybe a lighter colour.

February 3, 2017, 12:28 AM

Snapped this guy the other knight.

Just needs a little filling and it's good to go.

Modded a little to allow me to build the top and bottom separate so they're easier to paint.

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