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Shponglefan
July 26, 2014, 4:49 PM
I'm somewhat new to Gunpla. I originally discover it about 10 years ago. I built a couple kits, started a couple more, then just stopped. Over the years I kept thinking I should just get rid of my Gunpla kits and supplies. Yet, the hording won out and here I am, 10 years later and trying to build again. In fact, this first kit I am showing is one of the original unfinished ones.

My main interest is learning how to paint model Gundams. I also paint miniatures and have a modest illustration background, so the painting side interests me more than the building side. In fact, I get a bit impatient trying to build them and I think that's what caused me to stop originally.

My plan is to experiment with painting techniques, shading, application of different theory, and so on. Not to mention develop my airbrushing skills. This WIP log should be useful to chronicle these experiments and keep a list of what works and what doesn't.

This first kit is a basic 1/144 RGM-79GS GM Command Space Type.

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So far the I've primed everything (mostly) and am working on basecoating and initial shading. The waist area is only primed in these pics, but the legs and head have initial basecoats. I tried initially highlighting the torso with a mixture of Scarlet Red and White, but wasn't too keen on it, so I covered it with another base coat. I'm also not too happy with using the Hull Red for shading on the torso as it seems too warm a color for me. I might try giving it a blue wash and see if that helps.

Paints used so far (all Vallejo Model Air unless otherwise noted):

Torso: Scarlet Red (base), Hull Red/Scarlett Red mix (shade)
Legs/Head: USAF Light Grey (base), USAF Light Grey/Medium grey mix (shade)
Jetpack: Dark Blue Grey (base), Dark Blue Grey/Medium Grey/USAF light grey mix (highlight), Hull Red (thruster interior base)

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Setsunason54
July 26, 2014, 5:23 PM
Hey welcome to the forums! That's a really cool kit! You'll fit right in here and if you have questions let us know we'll help out:)

Shponglefan
July 27, 2014, 2:01 AM
Thanks Setsunason54! Browsing the forums there seems to be a lot of talented and knowledgeable folks here, so I'm glad to be here! :)

Little bit of a painting update. I started detailing the jetpack and the torso. In detailing the torso, I'm finding it already a challenge trying to brush paint after a smooth airbrush coat. Especially trying to do panel-lining via a wash. It's easy to make it look it messy, so care and patience will be needed in the future.

I'm also experimenting with edge highlighting. It's a technique I rarely see used in Gunpla, so I'm curious how it will work out in the end. So far I'm liking the results but I think it will take some time to really dial it in.

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Halzman
July 27, 2014, 2:18 AM
Ah, the good o'll GM lol I have the MG on my list of kits to do. Everyone needs feddie cannon fodder in there collection.

I also ran into some trouble when trying to paint panels with a brush and do panel linings with a gundam marker. Currently looking for a kind of foam/felt type of brush that is rigid (no bristles) and has a very fine point - like the fine point gundam marker. It really does suck that a brush doesn't flow the way you expect it to on an airbrushed piece.

I really like the way the backpack unit came out!

Dlinker
July 27, 2014, 1:13 PM
Someone here a long time ago tried to do some edge highlighting on their kit and it was looking nice, but he never got around to finish it. Very interested in seeing how yours turns out since it's something I want to try for myself after seeing so many great miniatures. So far, your paint job and detailing is looking sharp. How are you cleaning the wash?

Ultra
July 27, 2014, 6:56 PM
Isn't edge highlighting usually called shadowing? It's not that uncommon but most people won't paint do it on their kits from what i've seen. Anyway welcome. I'll be interested to see how that kit comes out considering it's so old.

Shponglefan
July 27, 2014, 10:58 PM
Ah, the good o'll GM lol I have the MG on my list of kits to do. Everyone needs feddie cannon fodder in there collection.

I also ran into some trouble when trying to paint panels with a brush and do panel linings with a gundam marker. Currently looking for a kind of foam/felt type of brush that is rigid (no bristles) and has a very fine point - like the fine point gundam marker. It really does suck that a brush doesn't flow the way you expect it to on an airbrushed piece.

I really like the way the backpack unit came out!

Thanks Halzman! The idea of using a fine point foam brush is interesting and could indeed help with those thin lines.


Someone here a long time ago tried to do some edge highlighting on their kit and it was looking nice, but he never got around to finish it. Very interested in seeing how yours turns out since it's something I want to try for myself after seeing so many great miniatures. So far, your paint job and detailing is looking sharp. How are you cleaning the wash?

Thanks Dlinker. Right now I'm just using water for cleaning up the washes. I might try oil washes on a future Gundam to see how that works.


Isn't edge highlighting usually called shadowing? It's not that uncommon but most people won't paint do it on their kits from what i've seen. Anyway welcome. I'll be interested to see how that kit comes out considering it's so old.

No, these are two different things. The shadowing you are referring to is painting a darker shadow around the edges of a flat surface. In this case, edge highlighting is using a light color and drawing along the edge where two surfaces meet.

Dlinker
July 28, 2014, 12:06 AM
The base coat doesn't get affected when you clean up the wash?

Shponglefan
July 28, 2014, 12:10 AM
The base coat doesn't get affected when you clean up the wash?

Oh it definitely does. I had to go back over with base colors to try to touch it up.

Dlinker
July 28, 2014, 11:34 AM
Oh, that sucks. I do acrylic panel line washes on my kits and I always gloss coat first to make removing the wash easier (I use Vallejo Model Color thinned with water and Flow Aid). It's still a gamble since I use a small amount of alcohol to clean up the wash and it tends to damage any sort of gloss coat. I thought you had a way of avoiding it and if so, I needed to learn your secrets, haha.

Shponglefan
July 29, 2014, 10:20 PM
Experimented with masking today. This was one of those "why didn't I do this sooner?" moments. Masking seems like it could be very useful in doing detail airbrush work and I have a feeling it will become something I rely on a lot.

The results are a bit subtle in the pics (just lightening some of the grey detail). But this was more for experimenting with different techniques and tools at this point.

Also toned down the edge highlight a bit as well. That's another technique I'm still figuring out...

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Dlinker
July 29, 2014, 11:37 PM
I can see the highlighting and I think it looks great. Subtle is the name of the game.

And yeah, working your masking skill will serve you tremendously no matter which paint method you use.

Shponglefan
July 30, 2014, 8:23 PM
I can see the highlighting and I think it looks great. Subtle is the name of the game.

And yeah, working your masking skill will serve you tremendously no matter which paint method you use.

Thanks Dlinker, it helps to get a second opinion and know I'm on the right track!

Today I worked on the various grey bits (legs, feet, etc). I attempted to highlight by mixing USAF light grey (my base) with the basic Model Air white paint. But while the USAF light grey has a slight yellow tint to it, it turns out the white paint has a slight blue tint to it. The end result looks like this weird blend of yellow and blue; it's kind of subtle in these pics, but in person it's more dramatic. So I think I'll have to repaint the highlights with White Grey, which seems to be a lighter tone than USAF light grey, but has the same tint.

So another lesson learned: don't mix up your color tints. The end result doesn't look good.

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Dlinker
July 31, 2014, 1:09 AM
Pretty crazy that you can detect tints like that. So on your pics, you were doing highlighting still? I thought it was post-shading. Either way, it looks nice.

Setsunason54
July 31, 2014, 6:31 AM
That's a real smooth finish though. It looks silky smooth.

thwalker13
July 31, 2014, 8:09 AM
It does look very smooth, and to be able to see the tints like that is pretty awesome. The paint just looks like an off-white to me in those pics. And the shading looks really good and subtle.

Setsunason54
July 31, 2014, 11:08 PM
It looks soft as clouds~ ahh~ lol

Shponglefan
August 1, 2014, 8:10 PM
Thanks everyone for the compliments! I was working hard on trying to get the blending right, so good to know that is turning out well. Hopefully it will look even smoother once I get the tints right.


Pretty crazy that you can detect tints like that. So on your pics, you were doing highlighting still? I thought it was post-shading. Either way, it looks nice.

In this case, I'm doing both general surface highlighting and shading, as opposed to edge-highlighting which I used on the backpack and torso.

- - - Updated - - -

Took a bit of a break today from painting and started assembling another kit: a basic NT1 Gundam from 0080. I also have a regular RGM-79G I'm prepping for painting, and an RGM-109 from F91 that I initially started building 10 years ago. The latter I got as far as base-coating before stopping.

Even though these are still pretty basic kits, I'm hoping they will be good to continue to learn painting on. For the NT1 and RGM-109, I was thinking of doing a more realistic military-style paint-job with some weathering. I think the NT1 might look good with a light blue-grey torso scheme (think a Navy helicopter), with regular light grey for the limbs. At any rate, I have time to think about it as I continue to prep these kits...

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jaqio
August 1, 2014, 9:06 PM
One heck of a good job! I like how smooth your finish is in particular.

Shponglefan
August 2, 2014, 11:02 PM
Thanks jaqio!

Minor progress today; started detailing the head and feet. Took awhile to mask these off and the results were so-so, especially the circles on the head. It's challenging to mask a proper circle! Ended up using the brush to tidy things up and wondered if it would be easier to just brush paint these pieces from the get-go.

Next for the head will be the visor. It's the part I'm fearing the most. While the model came with a translucent visor, I decided to try painting it instead. I'm not too worried about creating the lighting effect in paint; rather it's picking the right colors that is stressing me. I'm also toying with the idea of trying some subtle OSL (object source lighting) with it. But maybe I'll save that for a later model...

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Dlinker
August 3, 2014, 1:30 AM
I think some OSL will look rather good for that kit. I share your difficulty with masking circles. The fast way I've been able to do it is to use Blu-Tak and essentially molding a circle slowly with a toothpick. I think you did a great job, though.

Shponglefan
August 4, 2014, 10:20 AM
I think some OSL will look rather good for that kit. I share your difficulty with masking circles. The fast way I've been able to do it is to use Blu-Tak and essentially molding a circle slowly with a toothpick. I think you did a great job, though.

Thanks man! Hadn't thought about using Blu-tak for masking, that's a great idea!

Dlinker
August 4, 2014, 11:05 AM
You're welcome, hopefully it works for you. I'm thinking of trying out just normal silly putty too as a less-adhesive option (since people use it already for camo patterns and such) so that's another possibility if getting Blu-Tak isn't practical.

Shponglefan
August 4, 2014, 7:30 PM
Attempted the visor today. It proved to be very challenging. I initially started with my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS to do the overall basecoating and some of the shading. But then to paint the highlight, I switched to the HP-B Plus, which has a smaller needle size (0.2mm versus 0.35mm on the Eclipse). Even with the smaller needle, there was a LOT of trial and error. I think I spent the better part of an hour trying to paint this. The process involved darkening, then lightening, then darkening, then lightening, etc. I probably switched between paints at least 20-30 times. But finally I wound up with something I think I can live with.

I've still got a bit of cleanup around the edges where the masking did quite cover. Also still have to paint the area on the forehead. But I think I may brush paint it, as airbrushing into that small space seems tricky.

Paints used were (all Vallejo Model Air): Cam Light Green (base), Gunship Green (initial shadow), Black Green (dark shadow), Duck Egg Green (highlight)

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Dlinker
August 5, 2014, 12:03 AM
Holy crap, how long did the entire effort take you? It does look like it paid off, though. I think the visor looks great with a pretty realistic effect.

What you encountered with this is a good example of why I gave up trying to do much detail work with an AB. It takes less time and effort handpainting such things more often than not, save for details that require masking.

Shponglefan
August 5, 2014, 1:03 AM
Holy crap, how did the entire effort take you? It does look like it paid off, though. I think the visor looks great with a pretty realistic effect.

What you encountered with this is a good example of why I gave up trying to do much detail work with an AB. It takes less time and effort handpainting such things more often than not, save for details that require masking.

Haha, true enough. Although I'm hoping once I can dial in the technique, in theory it should only take 5-10 minutes to paint. I kept making so many mistakes though, that I repainted over and over. That visor probably has a couple dozen paint layers by now!

Setsunason54
August 5, 2014, 1:40 AM
Dozen paint layers but epic and awesome looking dozen paint layers! Lol it looks really great.

thwalker13
August 5, 2014, 7:44 AM
That is a lot of layers, but you can really argue with the results. It looks great.

Shponglefan
August 9, 2014, 9:00 PM
Thanks Setsunason54 and thwalker13!

Took a bit of a break from regular painting to try experimenting with inks. I tried the following: Vallejo Game Ink, Liquitex Professional Ink, and FW Acrylic Artist's Ink. I'm really curious to see what effects can be achieved airbrushing inks, as I don't think I've seen them used on Gundams.

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Results were a bit mixed. The Vallejo ink went on smooth, even thinned down. But the Liquitex ink was quite spotty after thinning; I think not thinning it would have been better. And the FW ink fell somewhere in between in terms of smoothness.

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I also did this experiment using different shades of grey primer and then Vallejo ink over top. However, I think I put on too much ink and the end result looked splotchy. Unlike regular acrylic paint, inks don't seem to pool as heavily so it's difficult to judge when applying too much...

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At any rate, I'll keep experimenting and see how it goes. I have a vision of doing a Grisaille-style underpainting for shading and highlighting of a Gundam, then inking for color. Not sure if that would work well, but we'll see...

- - - Updated - - -

Returned to the GM kit today and did some work detailing the gun. I'm going try an oil wash next and see how that goes.

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Dlinker
August 10, 2014, 12:55 AM
Oil wash on top of the acrylic without a gloss coat? I think thwalker13 has done that before and didn't run into much issues, although that was going on top of airbrushed Tamiya acrylics.

Shponglefan
August 10, 2014, 1:19 AM
Oh, I'm definitely doing a gloss coat first. That was an implied step, I failed to mention. ;)

Halzman
August 10, 2014, 2:24 AM
That Vallejo game ink finish looks fantastic! I've been contemplating trying out new paints specifically for airbrushing, and your results have encouraged me. It's funny you also mention the liquitex ink. At the moment, I'm using the Basics acrylic paint and thinning it, but came across the ink product line on there website, so naturally I was curious.

Also, what camera and lighting setup to you use to photograph? I'm envious of your photos - everything always come out looking crisp!

Shponglefan
August 10, 2014, 4:00 PM
That Vallejo game ink finish looks fantastic! I've been contemplating trying out new paints specifically for airbrushing, and your results have encouraged me. It's funny you also mention the liquitex ink. At the moment, I'm using the Basics acrylic paint and thinning it, but came across the ink product line on there website, so naturally I was curious.

Glad I could be of some inspiration!

The Vallejo game inks do seem the easiest to work with and produce a nice, satin finish. That said, all of the inks I have tried have very little margin of error. Since ink is transparent, mistakes can't really be corrected via multiple coats.

Based on my experience so far, inks seem they'd work best for glazing purposes and/or washes (if thinned). But for straight up painting, it's very challenging to produce a nice, even coat.


Also, what camera and lighting setup to you use to photograph? I'm envious of your photos - everything always come out looking crisp!

This is my current photo booth setup:

http://animecritic.com/_temp/photos/gundam/photo_booth.jpg

The photo booth itself is an Optex Portable Photo Studio. It includes two lamps for the left and right, and I added an overhead lamp for a third light source. All three lamps are using 14W 6500K Compact Flourescent bulbs.

Most of my photos were taken with my Canon 7D + 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens. To be honest, this camera setup is complete overkill for photographing scale models. I originally bought the 100mm macro lens specifically for wildlife macro photography. But it's the sharpest lens I own, so I use it for photo booth pictures as well. For non-photo booth pics, I also use my 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 lens along with my external flash (a Speedlite 580EX II).

And finally, I typically do minor post-processing in Photoshop including brightness/contrast tweaks, resizing for the web and minor sharpening.

thwalker13
August 10, 2014, 5:51 PM
That is a pretty awesome photo booth.

Shponglefan
August 10, 2014, 8:10 PM
Thanks thwalker13, I've been very happy with it thus far. :)

I did the oil wash today on the gun. It was the first time I've tried this technique, and like everything else was a learning experience.

The first attempt at the wash, I thinned out the oil too much. As a result, the pigment separated and as it dried, it had a very clumpy appearance. The second attempt was better, but then I ran into a problem on clean up. I tried using regular Q-tips, but they were far too fuzzy. Not only were they too imprecise to clean up properly, but I kept getting giant bits of fuzz on the model piece. As a result, I did a third wash attempt and used a different type of cotton bud and a brush to clean up.

This is the result:

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Next up for the gun is going to be a matt varnish, detail touch-up and edge highlighting.

Dlinker
August 11, 2014, 12:43 AM
The wash made a big difference. It looks more serious with it. Did you just apply it all over or only on certain areas?

Shponglefan
August 11, 2014, 7:55 AM
The wash made a big difference. It looks more serious with it. Did you just apply it all over or only on certain areas?

Mostly I targeted the areas I wanted the wash to sink in to. But considering I did three washes to get it right, it probably hit every area of the gun at least once.

Halzman
August 11, 2014, 9:09 AM
Glad I could be of some inspiration!

The Vallejo game inks do seem the easiest to work with and produce a nice, satin finish. That said, all of the inks I have tried have very little margin of error. Since ink is transparent, mistakes can't really be corrected via multiple coats.

Based on my experience so far, inks seem they'd work best for glazing purposes and/or washes (if thinned). But for straight up painting, it's very challenging to produce a nice, even coat.



This is my current photo booth setup:

http://animecritic.com/_temp/photos/gundam/photo_booth.jpg

The photo booth itself is an Optex Portable Photo Studio. It includes two lamps for the left and right, and I added an overhead lamp for a third light source. All three lamps are using 14W 6500K Compact Flourescent bulbs.

Most of my photos were taken with my Canon 7D + 100mm f/2.8L Macro lens. To be honest, this camera setup is complete overkill for photographing scale models. I originally bought the 100mm macro lens specifically for wildlife macro photography. But it's the sharpest lens I own, so I use it for photo booth pictures as well. For non-photo booth pics, I also use my 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 lens along with my external flash (a Speedlite 580EX II).

And finally, I typically do minor post-processing in Photoshop including brightness/contrast tweaks, resizing for the web and minor sharpening.

So it looks like the inks wouldn't serve me very well, but its good to know how they can be used in the future. I just ordered the liquitex airbrush medium, figured I'd give that ago, along with a replacement .3 and .5 needle/nozzle. I'm just trying to get to the point were airbrushing isn't a major hassle every time lol

And sir, thank you so much for going all out and showing your photo setup! I searched for the booth you mentioned, but ended up settling on Amazon's $40 option lol and that's some pretty sweet camera gear you have. I use a canon 550D/T2i with the stock lens, but I've been meaning to get at least the 50mm prime lens - you may have pushed me towards doing so, sooner then I planned ;)

Shponglefan
August 11, 2014, 9:45 PM
So it looks like the inks wouldn't serve me very well, but its good to know how they can be used in the future. I just ordered the liquitex airbrush medium, figured I'd give that ago, along with a replacement .3 and .5 needle/nozzle. I'm just trying to get to the point were airbrushing isn't a major hassle every time lol

Out of curiosity, have you tried Vallejo Model Air paint? It's my primary airbrush paint and I've found it very easy to work with.


And sir, thank you so much for going all out and showing your photo setup! I searched for the booth you mentioned, but ended up settling on Amazon's $40 option lol and that's some pretty sweet camera gear you have. I use a canon 550D/T2i with the stock lens, but I've been meaning to get at least the 50mm prime lens - you may have pushed me towards doing so, sooner then I planned ;)

T2i's a nice camera body. Pair that with a 50mm prime and you should be getting some nice 'n sharp pics!

Halzman
August 11, 2014, 11:47 PM
Out of curiosity, have you tried Vallejo Model Air paint? It's my primary airbrush paint and I've found it very easy to work with.



T2i's a nice camera body. Pair that with a 50mm prime and you should be getting some nice 'n sharp pics!

I have not tried the paint you mention. Basically when I first started all this I tried hand brushing with minimal investment (try before you buy kind of deal) so I went with a 48 color liquitex basics boxset. When I figured hand brushing wasn't for me, at least for painting the whole kit, I tried to re-purpose the paint I had for airbrush use. You could say I'm trying to get blood out of a stone on this one.

My results have been mildly successful - I have fully painted the kit I'm working on and making good progress, but I'm at the point where to move forward with consistent results, I either need to sort out the operational limits of the tools/paints I currently have, or invest in something better. At the moment with a 1/10 ratio of paint to matte medium (all liquitex), thinned with a few drops of water and 91% alcohol, I can get usable spray for a 30 min session. When I say usable, I mean that the trigger is fully depressed and I need to be within 6 inches or so to get decent coverage. After that 30 minutes though, I have to fully clean the airbrush and the performance drops with each following session. It spays alcohol and water just fine though with very nice precision ;) So in regards to sorting out those operational limits, I'll see if the .5mm nozzle combined with the airbrush medium makes a difference. Honestly my compressor may not be powerful enough so I may have to look at that as well.

After a quick peak on amazon, the vallejo paint isn't too terribly priced so that may be plan B before I look at compressor replacements lol I'll definitely need to look into how to use it properly - I already see some promising videos on youtube. I may also just pick up a bottle and see how it goes - if it turns out to be even easier to work with then what I currently/soon will have, or plan A fails completely, I'll be good to go. So thank you sir for the recommendation!

------

I've had it for about two years and I've been very happy with the it thus far! Aside from photos, I wanted something that could do low light video decently, and out of the box it works ok, but some primes would definitely help. I also have to thank you for waking up my sleeping camera gear bug. That 50mm prime is looking really good right now lol Aside from gundam photography and other future projects, I wouldn't mind having that for comic con this year.

Shponglefan
August 12, 2014, 11:13 PM
I have not tried the paint you mention. Basically when I first started all this I tried hand brushing with minimal investment (try before you buy kind of deal) so I went with a 48 color liquitex basics boxset. When I figured hand brushing wasn't for me, at least for painting the whole kit, I tried to re-purpose the paint I had for airbrush use. You could say I'm trying to get blood out of a stone on this one.

My results have been mildly successful - I have fully painted the kit I'm working on and making good progress, but I'm at the point where to move forward with consistent results, I either need to sort out the operational limits of the tools/paints I currently have, or invest in something better. At the moment with a 1/10 ratio of paint to matte medium (all liquitex), thinned with a few drops of water and 91% alcohol, I can get usable spray for a 30 min session. When I say usable, I mean that the trigger is fully depressed and I need to be within 6 inches or so to get decent coverage. After that 30 minutes though, I have to fully clean the airbrush and the performance drops with each following session. It spays alcohol and water just fine though with very nice precision ;) So in regards to sorting out those operational limits, I'll see if the .5mm nozzle combined with the airbrush medium makes a difference. Honestly my compressor may not be powerful enough so I may have to look at that as well.

After a quick peak on amazon, the vallejo paint isn't too terribly priced so that may be plan B before I look at compressor replacements lol I'll definitely need to look into how to use it properly - I already see some promising videos on youtube. I may also just pick up a bottle and see how it goes - if it turns out to be even easier to work with then what I currently/soon will have, or plan A fails completely, I'll be good to go. So thank you sir for the recommendation!

Wow, sounds like you have quite the process with your current paint! A .5 needle might help some, but it's still worrisome that you are having to fully clean your airbrush ever 30 minutes. I think that would drive me crazy with my painting process!

But if you do try some Vallejo Model Air paint, be sure to post the results. I'd like the hear the comparison with what you are using now.


I've had it for about two years and I've been very happy with the it thus far! Aside from photos, I wanted something that could do low light video decently, and out of the box it works ok, but some primes would definitely help. I also have to thank you for waking up my sleeping camera gear bug. That 50mm prime is looking really good right now lol Aside from gundam photography and other future projects, I wouldn't mind having that for comic con this year.

Haha, this forum is bad for the pocketbook isn't it? ;) If do you snag a 50mm prime, you'll likely be very happy with it.

- - - Updated - - -

Just an update today, spent a bunch of time doing detail work, touching up blending, etc. I realized a bit of a flaw in my process, namely painting different parts at different times and then discovering color mismatches (i.e. the red bit in the, um, groin area, versus the red on the chest piece). In future I'll have to plan paint sessions for better consistency.

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At any rate, still have a few bits of detail to go... then edge highlight everything... then gloss, then oil wash... And then maybe I'll be close to being done. Whew!

Dlinker
August 13, 2014, 1:36 AM
I see what you mean, the red on the crotch piece is a tiny bit out of place. Everything is looking great, though. So far, it's reminding of the box art on really old kits. Has a classic look to it.

Shponglefan
August 13, 2014, 7:16 PM
I see what you mean, the red on the crotch piece is a tiny bit out of place. Everything is looking great, though. So far, it's reminding of the box art on really old kits. Has a classic look to it.

I'm largely influenced by the box art for this kit, so maybe that's why it's turning out that way :)

- - - Updated - - -

Just a crosspost from this thread (http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/44620-Making-stencils). Experimented with creating an airbrush stencil for the number "2" using frisket film today. It was a bit challenging to cut a piece that small, so I think I'm going to invest in some better knives.

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Dlinker
August 13, 2014, 7:49 PM
I think it looks great for a first try, even when viewed up close.

Setsunason54
August 13, 2014, 9:20 PM
With a challenge like that, it still came out wonderful man. What camera are you using to take these shots?

Shponglefan
August 13, 2014, 10:34 PM
Thank you both for the encouragement! I'm hoping to try out some more stencil work and see how it goes.

Setsunason54, most of the photos have been taken with a Canon 7D and 100mm f/2.8L macro lens.

V0LTES-V01
August 14, 2014, 9:39 AM
The progress on the GM is looking good; nice touch with the oil wash detail on the gun http://operationgaga.com/public/style_emoticons/default/emoticon_thumbsup.gif.

Shponglefan
August 15, 2014, 11:59 PM
Thanks V0LTES-V01! One part oil washed, about 18 to go! ;)

- - - Updated - - -

Minor update today. I think I've (finally) detailed everything I wanted to and now just have the edge highlighting to finish, then gloss varnish and oil wash. I redid the edge highlighting on the torso for a third time, this time doing orange first, then an off-white on top. I think it looks a little better than before. Doing the edge highlighting on the grey pieces is taking awhile and TBH, it's so subtle I'm not sure if it's worth it. At least it shows up better on pieces like the torso and backpack.

I also applied a glaze to the red crotch piece to hopefully blend it better with the torso.

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- - - Updated - - -

Added a partially assembled pic. Right away I see I'm going to have to knock back the color of those feet.

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V0LTES-V01
August 16, 2014, 10:15 AM
A very smooth looking progress. It seems like you are almost at the end. What other parts are you planning to oil wash?

Shponglefan
August 16, 2014, 11:52 AM
A very smooth looking progress. It seems like you are almost at the end. What other parts are you planning to oil wash?

Pretty much everything, except for those ankle armor pieces (dunno what they are called). And maybe not the backpack, since I already did an acrylic wash on it.

Dlinker
August 16, 2014, 12:47 PM
Wow, this is looking fantastic. The subtle edge highlighting is getting better and better. Honestly, I keep mistaking it for actual light shining on the edges.

Shponglefan
August 17, 2014, 11:01 AM
Wow, this is looking fantastic. The subtle edge highlighting is getting better and better. Honestly, I keep mistaking it for actual light shining on the edges.

Thank you sir! And I'm finding the edge lighting seems its best in indirect light. Gives it that extra "pop".

Setsunason54
August 18, 2014, 2:02 PM
Sure does give an extra pop but that effect is awesome. I agree with Dlinker. It looks like the light is making it shine. Awesome work man.

Shponglefan
August 20, 2014, 9:40 PM
Thanks Setsunason54! Glad to have the positive feedback :)

Bit of an update today. I've been taking a break from painting and have been assembling more kits.

The first is the HG Strike Rouge 1/144 kit. I originally thought it might be my next painting project, but I might put it aside for now. It's the first "modern" kit I've built, and I was impressed with how they've updated the design of these kits. There seems to a lot more thought put into not creating visible seam lines, and it's much more poseable than old kits. I want to do a custom paint scheme, so for now I need to think about it.

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Next is this old school Zaku II from this 08th MS Team set (one of the 10+ year old kits I still have). For this one, I want to do proper zenithal highlighting and work on shading technique. For that, I'll need to paint it mostly assembled. Fortunately it's not very poseable, so it's perfect for what I have in mind. But it has seam lines up the wazoo, so it's going to take a lot of surface prep before I can get to painting it.

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- - - Updated - - -

Small update on the GM-Command. I've been gloss coating and oil washing the various parts. I'm finding oil washes to be quite the challenge, despite the theoretical simplicity behind them. I think maybe I'm just too focused on fine detail, which in turn doesn't lend itself well to the oil wash technique. In future, I might try using liner brushes for fine detail lining and then oil washes for more general areas.

On the plus side, at least with an oil wash you can remove whatever you don't like.

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Squee
August 21, 2014, 5:36 AM
Nice to see the OSL technique being used, haven't seen that in awhile!

*thumbsup!

thwalker13
August 21, 2014, 7:53 AM
The GM-Command is looking really good. I love the red that you used. And the detailing is looking great.

I also thought that the pink hue to the Strike Rouge would be a bit more prominent than that.

Dlinker
August 21, 2014, 12:23 PM
I like the overall darker tone the oil wash gave, especially in the visor area. Helps bring out the visor more.

Shponglefan
August 23, 2014, 10:57 PM
Nice to see the OSL technique being used, haven't seen that in awhile!

*thumbsup!

Thanks Squee! Although I'm not sure what OSL you are referring to? Do you mean the visor?


The GM-Command is looking really good. I love the red that you used. And the detailing is looking great.

I also thought that the pink hue to the Strike Rouge would be a bit more prominent than that.

Thank you thwalker13! The red in question is Vallejo Model Air Scarlet Red. It's quite vibrant, so much so that I've been knocking it back by mixing with whites and greys.

And yeah, the Strike Rouge isn't too pink; it's quite subtle.


I like the overall darker tone the oil wash gave, especially in the visor area. Helps bring out the visor more.

Thank you Dlinker! I do agree, it did help especially with the visor area.

Squee
August 23, 2014, 11:02 PM
OSL = Object Source Lighting

I thought you painted miniatures lol that's a standard technique/acronym for painting them.

Shponglefan
August 23, 2014, 11:08 PM
OSL = Object Source Lighting

I thought you painted miniatures lol that's a standard technique/acronym for painting them.

Oh, I know what OSL means, I just didn't apply it to this model. That's why I'm confused. :confused:

Squee
August 23, 2014, 11:13 PM
It looks like you did with the shoulders/arms. I forget the other term its called. zenesomething or other, where the paint is brighter based on the light source i.e. the light above. A guy on GE did it on a few kits, it looked pretty incredible.

Shponglefan
August 23, 2014, 11:17 PM
It looks like you did with the shoulders/arms. I forget the other term its called. zenesomething or other, where the paint is brighter based on the light source i.e. the light above. A guy on GE did it on a few kits, it looked pretty incredible.

Ah yes, that's "zenithal highlighting". That I did attempt to do on this Gundam. Although it was a challenge trying to do proper zenithal highlighting when painting everything in pieces. I'm going to try the same technique on the Zaku II, but painting it fully assembled instead.

Out of curiousity, do you have a link to the examples of it being used? I don't think I've seen an example of it in Gunpla before and would love to see how others have applied it.

Squee
August 23, 2014, 11:22 PM
THAT'S IT! haha, i knew it was something starting with zene! I honestly don't know the thread, it's a few years ago, and the way they moved the areas around, i don't even want to try to search for it.

The GBWC Australia Winner used the technique... among others. It's pretty jawdropping!

http://motd76.wordpress.com/

Shponglefan
August 24, 2014, 12:20 AM
THAT'S IT! haha, i knew it was something starting with zene! I honestly don't know the thread, it's a few years ago, and the way they moved the areas around, i don't even want to try to search for it.

The GBWC Australia Winner used the technique... among others. It's pretty jawdropping!

http://motd76.wordpress.com/

Oh that is amazing looking! I've been hunting for examples of miniature painting techniques used in Gunpla, so thank you for pointing me to that one! I think that's the first example of NMM I've seen in Gunpla.

- - - Updated - - -

Just a small update on the Zaku II kit. I've got most of the seam lines filled and sanded, although still a bit more work to do. I also opted to fill in some of the recessed detail where it happened to intersect a seam line. I'm really not sure what they were thinking having seam lines run through recessed detail areas.

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Dlinker
August 24, 2014, 8:30 PM
Wow, that's a lot of welds. You got much sanding to look forward to. I hear you on seam lines running through recessed detail areas. I encountered one in the G-Saviour and filling the area in seemed like the only option available.

Setsunason54
August 25, 2014, 12:37 AM
THAT'S IT! haha, i knew it was something starting with zene! I honestly don't know the thread, it's a few years ago, and the way they moved the areas around, i don't even want to try to search for it.

The GBWC Australia Winner used the technique... among others. It's pretty jawdropping!

http://motd76.wordpress.com/
That is an epic painting technique! Man you have got to try this out cuz from what I'm seeing, I think you're capable of doing it shpongle. And yea ur kit sure has a lot of welds. I don't like welding and sanding it down too much time but we gotta do what we gotta do right?

Shponglefan
September 2, 2014, 10:49 PM
Wow, that's a lot of welds. You got much sanding to look forward to. I hear you on seam lines running through recessed detail areas. I encountered one in the G-Saviour and filling the area in seemed like the only option available.

Well I managed to get through about 95% of the sanding, so almost done!


That is an epic painting technique! Man you have got to try this out cuz from what I'm seeing, I think you're capable of doing it shpongle.

Thank you for the vote of confidence Setsunason54! I've got some experimenting ideas for future kits, so I'll likely give it a shot!

- - - Updated - - -

Minor update, still working on the GM kit. I've started hitting pieces with a matte varnish. It really dulls down the coat, especially going from a gloss coat. Once fully assembled, I'll probably re-highlight some areas just to bring back some of the contrast and pseudo-reflection effects.

For future kits, I may push the contrast more to compensate for the matte varnish effect...

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Dlinker
September 2, 2014, 11:52 PM
That last part about compensating for the matte varnish sounds difficult to do. I can see why, though. The highlights you made previously look more like weathering now than implied lighting.

Baufrin
September 3, 2014, 10:14 PM
the Zenithal highlighting you are talking about is a form of Object source lighting It is useful in things like dioramas or showing a chosen light source vs the available light source works best on a model that you intent to keep in a static pose. If you combine it with a diorama with the same painting style it will look like it is high noon (also know as the Sun's zenith).

Shponglefan
September 6, 2014, 11:27 PM
That last part about compensating for the matte varnish sounds difficult to do. I can see why, though. The highlights you made previously look more like weathering now than implied lighting.

True dat. I'm hoping that once I re-highlight, it will bring back the contrast and looking like highlights again.


the Zenithal highlighting you are talking about is a form of Object source lighting It is useful in things like dioramas or showing a chosen light source vs the available light source works best on a model that you intent to keep in a static pose. If you combine it with a diorama with the same painting style it will look like it is high noon (also know as the Sun's zenith).

My plan is to glue it in a fixed pose once I'm done. Unfortunately, I didn't take the best approach to trying to paint a zenithal highlighted model by doing it piecemeal. My next attempt I'm going to take a different approach.

- - - Updated - - -

Another minor update; I did a test assemble of the GM and discovered more issues. In particular the skirt armor (not pictured) is going to need to be redone as the shading was completely wrong on it. Also, the ankle armor isn't tinted right so I'll repaint that as well.

And on top of that, I ended up breaking the left hand. I realize I had glued the back of the hand on improperly so I tried to remove and fix it. Ended up breaking it into a few pieces. Fortunately I have other kits I can salvage another hand from.

The shield is prepped, so I can start painting that. I saved it for last, since I wanted to try some experiments with it. We'll see how it turns out.

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In non-Gunpla news, I've been buying and assembling Infinity miniatures lately. They're sci-fi minis, and seem to be very anime/manga inspired. Some of them look straight out of the pages of Appleseed and Ghost in the Shell. I'm hoping to get some more of their stuff and I might post some here once I get around to painting them. Hope non-Gunpla stuff is okay in this WIP log! :D

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Dlinker
September 7, 2014, 1:19 AM
It's your WIP thread, man. Anything goes, haha. I've been meaning to paint miniatures myself so seeing your work on them will be a good source of inspiration.

Despite the setbacks, your GM is still looking well. Curious to see what you'll do with the shield.

Setsunason54
September 7, 2014, 6:52 PM
Your GM looks really sharp and awesome man. The paint job makes it stand out. Wonder what you're going to do with the shield.

Shponglefan
September 9, 2014, 10:56 PM
Thank you both for the kind words. I'm actually liking the paint job; it's turning into a slightly rough, imperfect illustration-type look. Which is pretty much what I was hoping for.

For the shield, I'm not trying anything too out there. But I want to try masking and/or freehand to create a design on it. At this point I'm curious to see what it will look like too!

@Dlinker: I'll likely add some minis to this thread then! I recently ordered some mechas, so it might be good to see how they compare and contrast with Gundams.

Dlinker
September 10, 2014, 12:00 AM
Not to take away from your beautiful GM, but I'll be looking forward to your miniatures. Kinda kicking myself after I missed a big sale at Miniature Market some months ago. 50% off on many kinds, such a waste. Their site got slammed because of it; It wouldn't load at home or at work.

Shponglefan
September 10, 2014, 10:30 PM
Aw, I didn't even know about that sale either (although I don't think I've ordered from MM before). But it's probably a good thing I didn't know, because there would have gone even more $$$. :oops:

- - - Updated - - -

Another small update for today. I decided I'm going to put all my Gundams on bases, the same way I would base miniatures. So I started building a small base for the GM (with my other GM as a stand in for this pic). Also picked up some plumber's epoxy putty I'm going to use for the terrain.

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Dlinker
September 11, 2014, 1:14 AM
Did you do a lot of work when you based miniatures? The reason I ask is because I'm wondering if we have some cool mini-dioramas to look forward to when you do it for your kits.

Shponglefan
September 13, 2014, 8:49 PM
Traditionally I haven't done too much work basing minis, but I want to change that. So for Gundams, yes, I'm planning to make mini-diorama bases for them. Like everything else, this is mostly uncharted territory for me. :)

- - - Updated - - -

Another update on the GM, progress continues a bit at a time. I did another assembly and for the most part it's coming together. But I realized after putting the GM in the photobooth that the colour is still off on the front skirt armor. It's a bit too dark compared to everything else.

But I may just start gluing everything together once I figure out a pose I want. Then I may glaze the front skirt to lighten it, before re-applying edge highlighting, touching up some of the panel lining and the poly-cap joints.

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I also ran into another issue with oil washes. Previously I was using the Winsor & Newton Winton oil paint. I found that the wash had to be a bit thicker than a normal wash or I would get terrible pigment separation. So I decided to try the Winsor & Newton Artists' Oil Colour instead. Normally I apply the oil, wait a day, and then do clean up. The Artists' Oil Colour seemed to go on smoother and hold together better. But when it came time to clean up, it was a royal pain to remove the excess paint. I had to scrub pretty hard in some places, and managed to remove some of the underlying gloss coat and acrylic paint (!). This only happened on a few edges of the feet, where perhaps the gloss varnish wasn't as strong. But it was still a surprise given how easy the Winton paint was to remove.

Lesson learned: Clean up the Artists' Oil Colour much faster than the Winton Oil pant.

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Dlinker
September 13, 2014, 11:53 PM
That's surprising how those two brands behave so differently. I always thought the different brands were set apart by minute pigment tones.

Loving the look of that GM. I can't help but expect it to look even better once you're finished with it completely.

Shponglefan
September 14, 2014, 11:02 PM
That's surprising how those two brands behave so differently. I always thought the different brands were set apart by minute pigment tones.

I think in this case one is supposed to be more professional and the other is more economical. The more expensive one is much smoother and seems to dry faster, which is probably more ideal for traditional oil painting.

I've got two other tubes of paint I want to try for washing next. One is water colour and the other is water-soluble oil.


Loving the look of that GM. I can't help but expect it to look even better once you're finished with it completely.

I'm hoping so!

I did some work on the base, staining it and giving it a coat of polyurethane. I like the results, but it may be awhile yet before I can get to the diorama part of it. I read that polyurethane takes up to 4 weeks (!) to fully cure. I'm not sure I want to put epoxy on it before it's cured. In the meantime, I'll probably build several more bases so at least they'll be good and ready for whenever I need them.

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Also got more done on the Zaku II. The assembly and surface prep is done. All that's left is to wash everything and then tomorrow I should be able to start priming. The plan is to prime and basecoat all the individual pieces, then do most of the assembly before continuing the painting process. It took too much time to paint everything piecemeal on the GM, so I'm hoping the Zaku II will go much faster.

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- - - Updated - - -

Played around a bit with the shield design in Photoshop today. This is what I came up with as a first draft. I wanted to incorporate the Earth Federation logo as well as the "2" I had painted on the shoulder of the GM. I'll likely work on it some more and see what else comes out.

The real challenge though will be translating it into paint...

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Dlinker
September 15, 2014, 12:01 AM
That Zaku II must have required a ton of sanding. Hopefully the welds are okay when you prime. Nothing's worse than priming and then seeing pits or gaps in the welds. Easily fixed, but still a hassle.

For a first draft, that shield is looking mighty fine. It has a very patriotic feel to it.

Setsunason54
September 15, 2014, 1:22 AM
If you can pull off the shield which I think you can, will look pretty awesome. If I could add a pointer though I think adding some sort of a border would make it more like a shield and not a cut out from paper. Maybe a gold border that matches the EF emblem?

Shponglefan
September 15, 2014, 10:05 PM
That Zaku II must have required a ton of sanding. Hopefully the welds are okay when you prime. Nothing's worse than priming and then seeing pits or gaps in the welds. Easily fixed, but still a hassle.

Yeah, I took a lot of time to really sand it to hopefully avoid any imperfections. Of course, imperfections will only matter depending on how 'clean' a paint job I opt for.


For a first draft, that shield is looking mighty fine. It has a very patriotic feel to it.

Thank you, now that you mention it, it does have a patriot feel to it.


If you can pull off the shield which I think you can, will look pretty awesome. If I could add a pointer though I think adding some sort of a border would make it more like a shield and not a cut out from paper. Maybe a gold border that matches the EF emblem?

Sure, I'll give a border a shot and see how it looks. Although I'm hoping the paper cut-out look is a consequence of using Photoshop. With proper painting, the result may look more cohesive and 3d.

Shponglefan
September 20, 2014, 10:23 PM
Started working on the base today. Used the epoxy to craft the terrain and stuck a bunch of random plastic bits to create a debris pile. Given how quickly the epoxy sets, it was a bit of rush job. I also created imprints for the feet of the GM, as per the tips Squee gave in this other thread (http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/44704-Couple-questions-regarding-quot-basing-quot-Gundams-(i-e-securing-to-dioramas-etc)). After the epoxy hardened, I used some glue to add some sand to create some additional texture.

Not sure how long to leave it before priming, but once it seems fully cured, I can begin the painting process.

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Squee
September 20, 2014, 10:38 PM
Looks great man!

Dlinker
September 20, 2014, 11:56 PM
It does look pretty convincing even in this early state.

Shponglefan
September 21, 2014, 12:42 PM
Thanks guys!

Meanwhile, I also started priming the Zaku II. Dlinker called it; inevitably there are visible seams needing touch up. And as I attempted to touch it up, I managed to spill Mr. Surfacer all over my work area. Fortunately, it didn't land on anything important (a miracle considering how cluttered my bench is right now). But still a PITA to clean up. It did teach me the value of keeping anything important up and off the desk, out of reach of paint spills.

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Dlinker
September 21, 2014, 2:47 PM
Ouch, sorry to hear about the spill and the seam touch-ups. I've always wondered why some people prime their kits twice and seam welding/gap filling gave me my answer. There's really no other way to tell if it's completely smooth aside from priming. Well, I guess painting works too, if you don't mind sanding your paint job once or twice.

Shponglefan
September 24, 2014, 10:32 PM
^ Ya, I don't mind two coats of primer myself. As long as I don't try that with Vallejo primers; they do not take to sanding.

Started another kit today, this one the Real Grade ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam. This is the first time building an RG kit; previously I have only built either HG or non-grade kits. I could not believe how long it took just to build these two legs. I'm really impressed with the engineering of these kits; the articulation is something else.

My only conundrum is how the heck I'm going to glue/paint it. I have a feeling it's going to take some careful planning to get the results I want.

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- - - Updated - - -

Finished assembling the RG Destiny. Still not 100% sure on the approach to painting it. I'm thinking I may just paint each leg, arm, etc, holistically. But at the same time, given how articulation works, I have a feeling that could create a lot of problems (i.e. chipping).

OTOH, I suppose I could prime and base all the pieces individually, and doing shading and highlighting when assembled and with a lot of masking.

I think I'm actually preferring the old school HG/non-grade kits for painting. They are simpler mechanically, but much easier to approach to paint.

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thwalker13
September 25, 2014, 8:54 AM
The Destiny is looking good. I myself find the parts separation of the RG to make things much easier to paint. However, I paint most everything in individual pieces.

Shponglefan
October 1, 2014, 8:09 PM
^ Thank you thwalker13! I think I'll probably end up priming and initially basecoating the pieces individually, before assembling and then highlighting/shading using fine glazes.

Been a bit under the weather lately, so my motivation to work on things has lapsed. But I did manage to get some work done on painting the GM base. Here's the progress so far, after priming and a few applications with the airbrush, washes and drybrushing.

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Dlinker
October 2, 2014, 1:13 AM
That base is looking real nice. What do you have left to do on it?

Shponglefan
October 2, 2014, 6:05 AM
That base is looking real nice. What do you have left to do on it?

Thank you! I've done some more drybrushing and also starting using dry pigments. I'm reaching a point where I'm mostly happy with the dirt/mud color and texture.

I still have to paint the debris, and I'm also going to try making a puddle using some Realistic Water.

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Dlinker
October 2, 2014, 11:13 AM
Just when I thought the base couldn't get any better. Now the surface has that muddy look to it, whereas before it looked more like scorched earth.

Setsunason54
October 4, 2014, 3:26 AM
Haven't stopped by in a long time and man that base looks awesome! I don't think I could ever pull that off.

Shponglefan
October 5, 2014, 1:39 AM
Thanks guys. It's been mostly trial and error at this point, so I'm glad it's turning out the way it is!

Dlinker
October 5, 2014, 1:43 AM
Haven't stopped by in a long time and man that base looks awesome! I don't think I could ever pull that off.

Dude, peruse Omneh's thread about dioramas and then give it a shot. I bet you'll pull it off easily. And then you'll post in your thread gloating about it, haha.

Shponglefan
October 7, 2014, 7:05 PM
I think I've developed builder's ADD, the way I keep jumping between projects. :D

Here's an update on the Zaku II figure. I think I'm done the priming; there are some minor imperfections but at this point I think it's good enough to paint. Also in the process, managed to break one of the thrusters. It snapped pretty easily and attempting to reglue it wasn't successful. I'm going to try pinning it and hopefully that will make it sturdy.

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And breaking from Gunpla, I picked up a 1/35 Tamiya Merkava tank kit recently. Haven't built military models since I was a kid, so it was nice to try it again. And it should be good practice for if and when I pick up an M61A5 Main Battle Tank kit (http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN957471/).

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Dlinker
October 7, 2014, 7:32 PM
Considering how that Zaku II looked before, what it looks like now is a major improvement. Once you start adding details in and such, those imperfections may just vanish under all of it.

My local hobby store sells tons of Tamiya armor kits. It will be interesting to see how the build is like for that Merkava. Been wanting to try an armor kit myself for a while.

Shponglefan
October 9, 2014, 6:33 PM
Considering how that Zaku II looked before, what it looks like now is a major improvement. Once you start adding details in and such, those imperfections may just vanish under all of it.

That's what I'm hoping! I think panel lining especially is good at hiding certain imperfections.


My local hobby store sells tons of Tamiya armor kits. It will be interesting to see how the build is like for that Merkava. Been wanting to try an armor kit myself for a while.

The build so far is pretty easy. The Merkava kit is fairly old and it was a lot cheaper (about ~$20) compared to some of the other kits. There are a few things about it that if I was to build again, I'd probably modify. And there are some weird instructions on making the antenna out of heated/melted sprues (!). But overall, it's been a good first armor kit to learn on.

---------

Just another Zaku II update, just repaired the broken thruster. Cross-posted a pinning tutorial in the Modeling How-to section (http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/44830-Pinning-tutorial-(repairing-or-strengthening-joints)). This thing will not be breaking a third time.

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- - - Updated - - -

Started painting the Zaku II. The final color will be red, but I'm starting with a blue undercoat. I want a slightly maroon color, so starting with the blue should help achieve this effect. I'm also going to highlight and shade the undercoat, before coating with red.

Another change will be fully assembling the figure before shading and highlighting. This should result in better highlights and less repainting to try to get everything uniform.

Blue paint used is VMA U.K. Azure; for the red, I'm going to use VMA Fire Red.

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Dlinker
October 9, 2014, 8:19 PM
Can't wait to see how the base coat will end up looking. Not often do we see undercoats being used much here, other than Gloss Black.

Shponglefan
July 25, 2016, 6:33 PM
*bump*

Necroing this WIP after a long hiatus. Didn't intend to be gone quite so long, but ce la vie.

Feels appropriate to pick up where I left off with the Zaku II. I've continued to work on it and completed the underpainting. It was based with VMA UK Azure. Then it was fully assembled and glued into place (joints and all). The only piece not glued at this point is the head, since I know I'll be removing it later to do the visor.

Shading was airbrushed with Vallejo Game Color Ink (Violet), aimed from the bottom. Then highlights were added with VMA Aged White, aimed from the top.

The idea is to create an exaggerated sense of contrast before coating with the surface color (VMA Fire Red). I'm hoping that this will lend to subtle underlying variations both in tone and color.

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- - - Updated - - -

Here is the Zaku II after applying the base color (VMA Fire Red). As expected, there is some gradation from the undercoat, although it's subtle. It's easier to distinguish in person.

The undercoat also shows through slightly depending on the angle of viewing; in certain areas where the red paint is thinner it has an almost iridescent effect.

One challenge was trying to evenly coat the whole model with all joints glued. In retrospect, I shouldn't have glued the shoulder joints; it would have been nice to be able to remove the arms. Oh well, lesson for next time.

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Shponglefan
July 31, 2016, 4:27 PM
Started basing the detail areas using VMA Black and Vallejo Panzer Aces Periscopes (50/50 mix). This includes doing panel lining which I'm doing via brush. Thought about an enamel wash, but decided to go the brush route instead. It's more finicky, but saves on having to gloss coat.

I'm already regretting gluing the shoulder joints. Removable arms would have made this process a lot easier, as trying to reach some areas with this fully assembled is a pain.

Haven't decided what to do with the gun yet, so it remains unpainted...

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- - - Updated - - -

More or less completed panel/lining and basing the dark areas (minus some touch up needed on the rear skirt armor).

Then did a highlight glaze with VMA Radome Tan, before re-glazing with VMA Fire Red. Result was a significant tint shift from the more orangey-red previously, to a subtler pinky shade (at least for the highlighted areas). Also based the gun with VMA Panzer Dark Grey.

Next up I want to start weathering/detailing this model, before highlighting. Thinking of a wash to start dirtying up some spots and then maybe some scratches and other details.

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