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Resident Eric
June 7, 2014, 12:49 PM
My next big project or headache :-D I'm going to repaint nearly the whole kit for a metallic look. This is going to be challenging because it uses 3 different shades of red.

http://erictong.com/gundam/sazabi.jpg

9/1/2014 update - two reds painted, it needs one more shade
http://erictong.com/gundam/sazabi1.jpg

9/21/14 - 90% complete. Need decals and thrusters painted!

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa15.jpg

Finished build
http://erictong.com/sazabi/sa14.jpg

More pictures below:
http://imgur.com/gallery/DiSpu

Sinervale
June 7, 2014, 12:59 PM
Love that suit...I've gotta see this in the metallic colors!

Zaku
June 7, 2014, 1:01 PM
This is gonna be sweet.

feddiewolf
June 7, 2014, 1:32 PM
looks like its gonna be a whole lot of work but will definitely be worth it

Squee
June 7, 2014, 3:03 PM
You're in for a treat. Just a heads up, the forearm armor that opens to show thrusters is very prone to breaking. Be careful when inserting/removing the armor for painting.

Resident Eric
June 7, 2014, 3:09 PM
Thanks for the tip. I'll try to take my time with this one. The gouf I built literally only spent like 2 weeks to do. I'm that inpatient lol

Bossguy
June 7, 2014, 3:27 PM
Awesome. That's going to look amazing when finished.

thwalker13
June 7, 2014, 3:46 PM
This is going to be one awesome kit when it's all done. Can't wait to see it.

Resident Eric
June 9, 2014, 8:19 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/black.jpg

Holy crap! I thought I started out easy with just priming the blacks. It uses up the whole bottle of tamiya gray primer (the tall one) :o The imperfections started to show as I primed also.

Zaku
June 9, 2014, 8:27 PM
Wow man that primer went fast. The parts look good though. So at least it wasent a waste

Resident Eric
June 10, 2014, 10:30 AM
http://erictong.com/gundam/shield.jpg

I wanted to do a metallic black instead of just a plain gloss black. Under bright light, you can see the sparkling silver flakes. The flakes look a lot smaller in person. As expected, I ran out of paint half way lol

thwalker13
June 10, 2014, 11:05 AM
That's a pretty wild affect. Kinda reminds me of a bass boat. But still looks really good.

Setsunason54
June 11, 2014, 5:44 PM
Man I can't wait for it to be finished.

Resident Eric
June 12, 2014, 12:28 PM
7588

I've been spoon testing with different bases. I'm getting close to finding the 3 shades i need.

Squee
June 12, 2014, 1:33 PM
Those look great. If it was me i'd go with the Diamond+smoke, the Diamond, and the one with Testors Gold.

futabaaoi
June 12, 2014, 2:15 PM
I like the Diamond and smoke.

Resident Eric
June 12, 2014, 3:45 PM
The diamond silver has a flat finish for some strange reasons. It would look much better in high gloss. But i still want to try other shades of gold. They don't come through the red as much as i want do.

Squee
June 12, 2014, 3:56 PM
Are you using cans or an airbrush?

Resident Eric
June 12, 2014, 3:58 PM
Cans and bottles. No airbrush for me

Squee
June 12, 2014, 4:01 PM
That's probably why. It's pretty hard to keep clear colors from going on dark with cans.

Resident Eric
June 12, 2014, 4:07 PM
Yeah sometimes it's hard to tell from a spoon test too because it has a smooth surface. The metallic color shows through hard edges more...if that makes sense. Anybody makes a mirror gold spray?

thwalker13
June 12, 2014, 4:24 PM
The Diamond + Smoke is my favorite. I love that blood red look.

Resident Eric
June 13, 2014, 8:41 PM
7604

Never ever buy testors gloss black spray can. Tried two different cans and both formed bubbles.

thwalker13
June 13, 2014, 10:09 PM
Good lord. I had some bad results when I painted my 1st Banshees, but nothing like that. Did it actually cause the spoon to melt?

Resident Eric
June 13, 2014, 10:53 PM
It didn't melt the spoon. There were just huge bubbles and clear coat all over the place. I know they were not from over spraying because none of the tamiya cans shoot paints like that.

Dlinker
June 14, 2014, 1:53 AM
Oh my goodness, seeing those bubbles made my skin crawl. Ugh, it's like the paint is sick. This is why it's best to always test paint on spoons, haha.

Resident Eric
June 15, 2014, 5:09 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/reds.jpg

I think we have our finalists lol This is a cell phone pic so the pearls don't really show but they look much better in person. One thing I discovered today, in the manual the color chart shows 3 shades of red. But looking at the kits I can clearly see 4 shades of red. I haven't decided if I want to branch off another shade, maybe just more coats of one of these. But at least now I can stop playing with base coats and actually start painting.

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/reds2.jpg

I tried to be lazy and skip primer for the right one. As you see, it was a big mistake. Moral of this lesson...don't half ass your paint job. Now I have to strip the paint and re-do all 4 layers again :mad:

AlexBobspoons
June 15, 2014, 5:50 PM
I just have to say that the metalic black on page one looked awesome and those spoons even more so. The kit on the box looked an excellent looking model too so I just think this is going to look fantastic and I cant wait to see photos following the work youve done already.
Just looking so great
Alex

Zaku
June 15, 2014, 5:53 PM
Oh man that red is NICE.

thwalker13
June 15, 2014, 6:09 PM
Very nice looking red man. Sucks you have redo that part though.

Resident Eric
June 15, 2014, 6:39 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/reds3.jpg

I need some expert painter help please. When I sprayed clear red over the gold, these little dark color dots started to show up. Why is that? Was my gold layer wasn't thick enough? Or was my red coat? This is so frustrating because it happened to every piece.

Squee
June 15, 2014, 10:26 PM
Can you list the types of paint used for each layer, and company? That's orange peel on the second layer and it seems like your red reacted badly with your gold and ate through it.

Resident Eric
June 15, 2014, 10:29 PM
All layers were tamiya spray cans. That's weird they are not compatible with the same brand?

http://erictong.com/gundam/candy.jpg

Squee
June 15, 2014, 10:34 PM
Did you wait a few hours between spraying? That's alot of harsh thinners being sprayed on paint.

Resident Eric
June 15, 2014, 10:47 PM
Yeah it was over 3 hours after the gold was sprayed. Here's the dilemma, if I use lacquer black as base, enamel gold second, then I can't use tamiya red again as topcoat because it's lacquer based?

- - - Updated - - -

Also another question, if i spray more coats of gold will that solve the problem?

Squee
June 15, 2014, 11:19 PM
Ah see that's what did it. Enamels need a MINIMUM of 24 to 48 hours to cure fully. Just because they look dry, it doesn't necessarily mean it's fully cured. Lacquer, in this case your clear red, will eat right through enamel. Often spraying lacquer over even fully cured enamel can still have a negative outcome.

Resident Eric
June 15, 2014, 11:25 PM
I didn't use enamel. All 3 layers were synthetic lacquer. I was just thinking about another route since using all lacquer paints caused a reaction. I'm really thinking about buying an airbrush kit and use all water based paints. This is getting so expensive to buy spray cans and worry about what type of paints to use.

Squee
June 15, 2014, 11:39 PM
Ah, i read that wrong. Even still, try waiting for more time before spraying the next color.

Try giving this a read: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?category_id=8&type=article#.U55m1o1dXs4

Setsunason54
June 23, 2014, 6:37 AM
I'm liking the far left spoon.

Resident Eric
June 23, 2014, 7:32 PM
I've been in the process of stripping old paints and restarting again. And also I've decided to paint with an airbrush verus cans. I bought a badger one with a can of propellent set. The pressure wasn't very consistent at all, it will start out strong then drops to the point where the paint distance shortens couple inches. So I need an air compressor to finish the job. :mad:

outamyhead
June 24, 2014, 2:34 PM
Make sure you get a moisture trap for the airbrush end of the hose line, nothing more annoying than a glob of condensation ruining what you are working on.

Resident Eric
June 24, 2014, 9:09 PM
Make sure you get a moisture trap for the airbrush end of the hose line, nothing more annoying than a glob of condensation ruining what you are working on.

Don't most people install one at the compressor end of the hose? Which is better?

thwalker13
June 25, 2014, 7:38 AM
Mine is located on the compressor side of things. I have seen a few that were located in the actual hose, not entirely sure how that works.

Resident Eric
June 25, 2014, 9:34 AM
I think it's better closer to the airbrush because you can have moisture in the line still if you put it at the other end. But with the expense of added weight. I can't wait to get the compressor and figure this out.

outamyhead
June 25, 2014, 5:50 PM
I have the main one that was already fitted to the compressor, but I have the little Iwata moisture trap on the airbrush end of things as well.

Squee
June 25, 2014, 6:08 PM
^Do you have a link to the little one? I currently use a moisture trap on my compressor and a dust catch that came with my Mr. Procon boy airbrush that i use for all my brushes. I took it apart and the filter inside has been replaced but i know it's near impossible to buy replacement filters for it. Thinking about getting another trap for near the brush but don't want something huge. I'd like one that sits well as if its an extension of the handle like my dust catch.

Resident Eric
July 20, 2014, 1:17 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sa.jpg

After making mistake after mistake, think I'm getting the hang of airbrushing. But then some of the shafts started breaking apart. I think it's because of the thinners I used weaken the plastic. :mad:

thwalker13
July 20, 2014, 3:49 PM
What kinds of thinners have you been using?

Resident Eric
July 20, 2014, 4:25 PM
I used tamiya lacquer thinner multiple times. But they started breaking after I used testors enamel thinner.

thwalker13
July 22, 2014, 7:41 AM
Yeah, Testors enamel thinner is highly corrosive to plastic. I used to try to remove some messed up decals on my MG 00 Raiser. And the parts just crumbled in my hands.

Resident Eric
July 22, 2014, 8:12 PM
Is there another brand of enamel thinner to use? I think tamiya only makes lacquer and acrylic thinners.

Squee
July 22, 2014, 8:20 PM
Go to home depot, walmart, kohls, or any hardware store and buy odorless mineral spirits. You can get a huge gallong for about 10 bucks, and it'll last for a long time. I've never had it harm plastic.

Resident Eric
August 17, 2014, 8:27 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/photo.jpg

What causes these random big drops of paint splatter? This is mad annoying. I have to re-do a couple of the pieces. Seems only happen whenever I'm stopping and spraying again. Paint blockage? Moisture?

On the good note, I got 2 shades of candy red done. One more to go and I can put these together.

- - - Updated - - -

Can one of you mods add "Titanium build" to the thread title?

Shponglefan
August 18, 2014, 8:38 AM
What causes these random big drops of paint splatter? This is mad annoying. I have to re-do a couple of the pieces. Seems only happen whenever I'm stopping and spraying again. Paint blockage? Moisture?

It could be a number of reasons. On my airbrush I notice I sometimes get build up in the crown cap, which can result in spatter. A lot of people remove the crown cap for this reason.

thwalker13
August 18, 2014, 9:10 AM
Or it could just be paint build up. I've had it happen a time or two just from a pool gathering in one spot.

Also, I edited the title for you.

Knight51
August 21, 2014, 10:30 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sa.jpg

After making mistake after mistake, think I'm getting the hang of airbrushing. But then some of the shafts started breaking apart. I think it's because of the thinners I used weaken the plastic. :mad:
Where do you get those small aligator clips

Squee
August 22, 2014, 4:37 AM
Sounds like moisture in your air line.

Resident Eric
August 23, 2014, 1:31 PM
Where do you get those small aligator clips

I bought them from a chinese seller on ebay. It was a 24 clips and sticks deal.

Knight51
August 23, 2014, 4:39 PM
I bought them from a chinese seller on ebay. It was a 24 clips and sticks deal.
Thanks, I also found them on amazon

Resident Eric
August 31, 2014, 10:02 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sazabi1.jpg

A quick update as I have more time during this long weekend. I finished two shades of candy red finally so I just need to branch off one more shade to complete. Candy color is hard to match since a slightly more paint will make the color darker. REALLY can't wait to finish!

Squee
September 1, 2014, 12:05 AM
Looking great! Are you going to go with a candy for the black also? Or a nice solid for contrast?

Shponglefan
September 1, 2014, 12:33 AM
Ooooh, that's some purty looking red. :D

Resident Eric
September 1, 2014, 1:53 AM
Looking great! Are you going to go with a candy for the black also? Or a nice solid for contrast?

I don't really see the benefit of doing candy black. It's just going to look very glossy black in the end. I'm most likely doing metallic black which I've done before. But I didn't like the testors brand because the silver flakes were so huge and it had a really rough texture.

Resident Eric
September 7, 2014, 4:01 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sa1.jpg

While waiting to finish the last shade of red, I'm starting to repaint the gray parts into gunmetal. Unlike previous colors, I skipped using primer for this. I figured most of these will not even be visible once it's put together. So not priming these will not only save costs but time as well. I actually want to only paint the parts that will be visible but it's a little hard with just going by the instructions. So I'll probably paint all of them since it's a pretty quick process unlike the candy reds.

Dlinker
September 8, 2014, 1:11 AM
I think that's a good idea, skipping the primer layer for parts that won't really be visible. They look pretty good without it anyway.

thwalker13
September 8, 2014, 9:04 AM
I agree, it'll save time and paint. Which, like Dlinker said, the parts are looking really good as it.

Resident Eric
September 14, 2014, 3:53 PM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sa5.jpg

For this candy red, I want to do a chrome base with alclad. Btw this chrome is amazing. I only had to spray one layer and never had a clogging problem once.

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa6.jpg

I'm really trying to push to finish the repaint since the temperature is dropping quickly here in the east coast. I started repainting the black with tamiya metallic black. Color is amazing under the sun but looks too flat for my liking. It has a semi gloss finish so I'd have to spray a gloss over them. Previously I used testors metallic black and the silver flakes were huge. This one is much better.

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa7.jpg

I was playing around with putting together some of the assemblies. I probably shouldn't because removing those parts might mess up the paint. The paints aren't sticking well around the edges but I must be really careful. Unlike a normal color, you can't really just touch up the candy color without altering the darkness. Excuse my bad cell phone photos.

Zaku
September 14, 2014, 5:21 PM
Man that thing is lookin nice. Real nice work man.

V0LTES-V01
September 14, 2014, 6:04 PM
Those shinies are looking incredible, way to go! I think a masterpiece is on its way.

Resident Eric
September 14, 2014, 11:23 PM
I just tried Mr Topcoat gloss clear, don't think I like the results. The finish doesn't look really smooth. Am I supposed to overspray a lot? Do you guys have any suggestions for gloss clear?

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa8.jpg

LED light is so nice. Turning it on/off is a pain though because the switch is underneath of the top piece.

thwalker13
September 15, 2014, 11:30 AM
This project is looking great man. The colors and the frame are looking so vibrant.

Shponglefan
September 15, 2014, 12:34 PM
That kit is turning out really nice, especially that gloss red with the metallic black. And that chrome looks amazing! I'm going to have give more Alclad paints a go...

Zaku
September 15, 2014, 4:32 PM
Nice man. And sorry to hear about the clear coat problem. Sadly i domt know how to help you.

Resident Eric
September 15, 2014, 7:29 PM
Nice man. And sorry to hear about the clear coat problem. Sadly i domt know how to help you.

Thanks. Alclad has a water based gloss which I'm going to try. Their stuff is usually pretty good and pre-thinned.

Dlinker
September 15, 2014, 7:37 PM
I use their water-based gloss all the time and I noticed it does take away some of the shine a little bit so just an FYI. I tend to spray one medium coat followed by a heavy coat so perhaps it's just my technique.

Resident Eric
September 15, 2014, 10:06 PM
Wait, so it's less shiny than before you use it? That doesn't make sense. I know if you clear coat metallic paint, sometimes it's less shiny. But this happens to non-metallic too?

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa9.jpg

The cell phone doesn't quite capture the true reds. The light red is much lighter in person. But I just want to throw them together for a quick visual. Looking good so far.

Zaku
September 15, 2014, 10:23 PM
Whoa. Man that thing is bad ass lookin.

Dlinker
September 16, 2014, 1:36 AM
Wait, so it's less shiny than before you use it? That doesn't make sense. I know if you clear coat metallic paint, sometimes it's less shiny. But this happens to non-metallic too?

Oh, no, it only happens for high shine metallics. Give it a good wet coat for non-metallics and it will give you a nice, glossy finish. It looks foggy at first, but after a day or two, it goes away and you're left with the gloss.

thwalker13
September 16, 2014, 7:36 AM
Man, your Sazabi is looking better and better by the post. I can slightly see the different shades of red on the shoulders.

xkouki
September 19, 2014, 1:32 AM
http://erictong.com/gundam/reds.jpg

I think we have our finalists lol This is a cell phone pic so the pearls don't really show but they look much better in person. One thing I discovered today, in the manual the color chart shows 3 shades of red. But looking at the kits I can clearly see 4 shades of red. I haven't decided if I want to branch off another shade, maybe just more coats of one of these. But at least now I can stop playing with base coats and actually start painting.


Can you tell me what type of paint (brand), primer and color you used to achieve the color of the middle spoon?! I'm new to painting in general and I have no idea how to get started, thanks!

xkouki
September 19, 2014, 1:45 AM
On page two with the 3 red spoons how did you achieve the color of the middle spoon? what paint (brand), primer and color were used? also how did you layer the paint? was it 3 coats of red after the primer? I'm new to painting and I have the SD ironman minikiin to paint and that red is what I'm looking for. I hope i'm making sense with my question!

Resident Eric
September 19, 2014, 11:05 PM
On page two with the 3 red spoons how did you achieve the color of the middle spoon? what paint (brand), primer and color were used? also how did you layer the paint? was it 3 coats of red after the primer? I'm new to painting and I have the SD ironman minikiin to paint and that red is what I'm looking for. I hope i'm making sense with my question!

For the spoon tests i used all tamiya spray cans. Primer is not necessary but use a white primer to bring out the color. The base color has to be gloss black. The shine of the top coat really depends on the gloss black. When the black is dried, use a silver or gold color. I like gold because it makes the red more vibrant. The final red coat you have to put a very thin 1st layer and wait a few mins to dry. And then keep adding more. But from experience, don't use tamiya clear red spray over tamiya gold or silver. For some reason it will dissolve some of the gold or silver and you'll see black dots from the base coat all around. It's always safer to use a different type of paint on top of each other. Like enamel over lacquer in case you mess up the top coat and need to restart.

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa10.jpg

I got some more painting done today. The colors look really nice under LED lights. I promise I will take better pics once it's done :mrgreen:

Zaku
September 19, 2014, 11:07 PM
Man that looks good.

Resident Eric
September 21, 2014, 12:37 AM
http://erictong.com/gundam/sa11.jpg

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa12.jpg

The back side of the leg is hard to align to look flushed. And after trying for a while, the paint starts chipping a little near the edges. :oops:

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa13.jpg

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa14.jpg

http://erictong.com/gundam/sa15.jpg

I still have thrusters left to paint. And I need to clear coat this thing asap, paint chips from repeat handling. This project has been a pain since the very beginning. But the end result is so rewarding. I can just sit back and look at this model all day long.

Zaku
September 21, 2014, 1:49 AM
WOW man thats a beast.

thwalker13
September 21, 2014, 8:11 PM
Wow man, that Sazabi looks fantastic!

Resident Eric
September 21, 2014, 9:43 PM
I thought I gave Mr. Topcoat another try today. It was a mistake. That stuff is weird. It's almost like glue when it sprays. And the finish is not very consistent with some area very glossy and smooth, some dull and rough. It tooks me hours to scrub that off with rubbing alcohol. I think I'll give Future polish a try. Is that stuff any good?

Dlinker
September 22, 2014, 1:04 AM
Yeah, it's pretty good, but easy to overspray since it's like water. More susceptible to sags too so keep any eye out when spraying.

Resident Eric
September 22, 2014, 10:38 AM
Yeah, it's pretty good, but easy to overspray since it's like water. More susceptible to sags too so keep any eye out when spraying.

I'll hand paint it.

Dlinker
September 22, 2014, 11:04 AM
Oh, okay. The sag warning still applies, maybe more so when applying by hand. It's an easy fix, though. If you spot an area where the stuff is starting to sag, just take a strip of paper towel and absorb some. The rest will self-level.

Resident Eric
September 22, 2014, 8:15 PM
Oh, okay. The sag warning still applies, maybe more so when applying by hand. It's an easy fix, though. If you spot an area where the stuff is starting to sag, just take a strip of paper towel and absorb some. The rest will self-level.

How long are you supposed to wait for a 2nd coat? Maybe I'm panicking too soon, but this stuff seems like it's reducing the shine and gives it a tacky feel. The paint isn't really smooth anymore. Hopefully it's because it's not fully dry yet.

Dlinker
September 22, 2014, 9:56 PM
Technically, it's best to apply a second coat after 8 hours per the bottle's instructions. Curing times can vary. I'm in CA and in warm weather (around 68 degrees) it takes a few days before all of the tack goes away. Mind you, this was on a spoon so the amount of surface area can affect it too.

Resident Eric
September 24, 2014, 11:14 PM
Technically, it's best to apply a second coat after 8 hours per the bottle's instructions. Curing times can vary. I'm in CA and in warm weather (around 68 degrees) it takes a few days before all of the tack goes away. Mind you, this was on a spoon so the amount of surface area can affect it too.

I went back and redid it. This time I put thicker layer on but without it being runny. Seems to help a lot with the shine when the coat is thicker. And also wait longer between coats.

- - - Updated - - -

I can use Micro Sol after gloss coated with Future without bad reaction right?

Squee
September 25, 2014, 12:26 AM
Yes. Its better to use micro sol as its not as harsh as other decal setters. Might want to look into polishing compounds in case any brush strokes show up.

Resident Eric
October 6, 2014, 8:14 PM
9678

9679

What are your thoughts on these guns? They look pretty sick. Do you think they're too much?

Zeta
October 6, 2014, 8:20 PM
Gatling guns aren't really Char's fighting style, so it wouldn't make sense to mount them on the Sazabi (which is supposed to represent the ultimate evolution of Char's MS repertoire).

Dlinker
October 7, 2014, 1:28 AM
Personally, I think they look cool. However, some people on Instagram mentioned that the quality is kinda hit-or-miss so you might have to do a good amount of fixing to get them looking proper.

Zaku
October 7, 2014, 1:31 AM
Zeta has a good point with them not being Char's style but they are so bad ass.

Dom Tropen MS-09D
October 7, 2014, 1:39 AM
Yes, Gatling Guns are very cool. However IMO they don't fit Sazabi.

thwalker13
October 7, 2014, 7:51 AM
My opinions echo what has already been said. I've seen those gatling guns on Samuel Decals site before, though they do look awesome and very detailed, they just don't fit the Sazabi. I think they would better fit a ground type suit. Like a Gouf or a Kampfer.

Chaser90EK
October 7, 2014, 8:05 AM
^What they all said. Save them for another kit you have them. When you think Char you think precision, accuracy, and efficiency. That being said were Char to use a Gatling gun he would likely be getting 100 head shots per second and the Feddies would be screwed...

Resident Eric
October 8, 2014, 7:21 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlXiSClrWoA

Look really clumsy and heavy. The guns are so heavy won't even stay up. They do look pretty cool though, especially after some custom paints.

grivhuey
June 15, 2015, 1:42 AM
http://erictong.com/gundam/reds.jpg

I think we have our finalists lol This is a cell phone pic so the pearls don't really show but they look much better in person. One thing I discovered today, in the manual the color chart shows 3 shades of red. But looking at the kits I can clearly see 4 shades of red. I haven't decided if I want to branch off another shade, maybe just more coats of one of these. But at least now I can stop playing with base coats and actually start painting.

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/reds2.jpg

I tried to be lazy and skip primer for the right one. As you see, it was a big mistake. Moral of this lesson...don't half ass your paint job. Now I have to strip the paint and re-do all 4 layers again :mad:
\



Hi, my first time i post in this forum. I am getting excited after reading your forum and your work.. i would wish to start a titanium sazabi as well but i never do any spray paint before...

I wish to check with you for your colour scheme.
So basically the differences of the red shown by these spoons is the clear red layer only

gloss black + gold + clear red
and the differences is 2 layer , 3 layers and 4 layers?

how long you waited before spraying another red layer?

do you use any premier paint?

grivhuey
June 15, 2015, 1:47 AM
http://erictong.com/gundam/reds.jpg

I think we have our finalists lol This is a cell phone pic so the pearls don't really show but they look much better in person. One thing I discovered today, in the manual the color chart shows 3 shades of red. But looking at the kits I can clearly see 4 shades of red. I haven't decided if I want to branch off another shade, maybe just more coats of one of these. But at least now I can stop playing with base coats and actually start painting.

- - - Updated - - -

http://erictong.com/gundam/reds2.jpg

I tried to be lazy and skip primer for the right one. As you see, it was a big mistake. Moral of this lesson...don't half ass your paint job. Now I have to strip the paint and re-do all 4 layers again :mad:


Hi, this is my first time to post on this forum. I get excited reading your wip and your work. I wish to start a same project too but i nvr work on any spray pain before.

I wish to check with you for the red you used in the project.
so is the red you used are all same and the only different is the number of clear red layers?

gloss black + gold + clear red

so the differnces of the spoon from left to right would be 4 layers, 3 layers and 2 layers of clear red?

Resident Eric
June 21, 2015, 2:41 PM
different clear red gives a more noticeable difference. Same red with different base, the difference is very minimal.

It's a personal preference to how many layers you do. Each layer gets darker