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ChapelMkII
April 24, 2014, 4:02 PM
Ever since Build Fighters started, an idea has been growing in the back of my head, slowly at first, then quicker with the announcement of the KA group build. The Newtype ideals of finding peace through a mutual understanding were amusingly turned on their side to accommodate the show's Gunpla-centric focus, but I began to wonder: How would we go about gaining a better understanding of our fellow board members? I had some ideas about the approach, but they weren't finalized until the show's final episode: Fellini and Mao give up parts of their kits to Sei so that the Star Build Strike can have its final fight with the Amazing Exia, a major sign of trust and respect for their fellow builder.

I pitched the idea of a group build to some members and a mod or two already , and it was met with favorable opinion. But I'm a realist and a bit of a cynic, so I had to pose the very real question of how to go about pitching a trust-based group build on the internet -- a place where trust is destroyed in such a large scale that it could probably be measured in second-spaced intervals. The answer was surprisingly simple: We show you how awesome this could potentially be.

That's right, I said we. I've been in communication with Dlinker, and we have agreed to embark on what will essentially be a dry run of this potential group project, which will be tracked on this very thread. If this proves to be successful, and we get enough people interested, hopefully we can do this again on a larger scale.

So what exactly does this challenge entail? As we speak, Dlinker and I have already mailed each other one of our kits. Since this a test run, we decided to send kits that were not new, but are instead old kits in our backlog that for one reason or another we started and never got around to finishing. Neither of us have any clue as to which kit the other has sent, so it will be a complete surprise when we open our packages. Included with our kits is a note containing two itemized details:

The primary color that the kit must be.
An additional requirement that must be addressed in the final version of the build (i.e. "Must be a sniper", or "Must have battle damage", etc.).

Apart from these two conditions, it is builder's discretion from beginning to end. We are trusting each other to give our "A" game and hopefully be able to convey our own personal building style in what will be a unique kit that other will keep. Apart from a few posting guidelines that the two of us have discussed, we will not see the final product of our efforts until the kits are mailed back, again, sight unseen.

TL;DR: This is Trading Spaces, Extreme Gunpla Edition :P

The next posts Dlinker and I make will be about the kits and challenges we've received, so I hope you all stick around to see what happens! :D

Asterisk
April 24, 2014, 4:12 PM
.....I'm interested in this, actually. Once upon a time, I proposed a team build with a friend. His airbrush work, my detail work. It never went anywhere, but this sounds much more realistic.

Bossguy
April 24, 2014, 4:28 PM
Wow, this is really cool. A truly fabulous idea. I'll be closely following this project.

Dlinker
April 24, 2014, 5:21 PM
I'm curious to see what kit I'm going to be working on. I just know it's an MG kit, but from what line and how old? The suspense is killing me, haha.

I think ChapelMkII had the better end of the bargain, but then again, the kit I sent him may be more challenging than expected.

Zaku
April 24, 2014, 5:50 PM
This is an awesome idea. Man i wish i was better at building gunpla. Oh well practice practice practice. Ill also be watching with great interest.

ChapelMkII
April 24, 2014, 5:52 PM
I'm curious to see what kit I'm going to be working on. I just know it's an MG kit, but from what line and how old? The suspense is killing me, haha.

I think ChapelMkII had the better end of the bargain, but then again, the kit I sent him may be more challenging than expected.

I think you'll like what you got. I liked it enough to get it :P

Given what you already told me about the kit you've sent me, the challenging part will be the test of will stripping all that paint XD

thwalker13
April 24, 2014, 11:02 PM
I will definitely be following this guys. I'm super interested to see what you sent each other.

Dlinker
April 25, 2014, 8:18 PM
Just got my objective: The MG Crossbone X1 Ver. Ka :cool:

7240

Got to say, this was completely unexpected, but very welcome. I'm pretty darn excited to get started, even with just the last bits of de-nubbing. Also, I want to apologize to ChapelMkII for my rather simplistic letter of conditions. Yours blows mine right out of the water, haha. Anyways, onwards to the conditions for this kit:

1.) Primary color of bloody crimson must be used. All other colors are up to my discretion

2.) Due to damaged parts, all cape clasps are no longer needed and must be replaced with something that still fits the aesthetic and design motif of the kit.

Time to start thinking of a design for those new clasps. I'm leaning towards enhancing what's already present, including permanently fixing the broken part. I do wonder, though: Do the clasps on the chest need to be replaced too?

futabaaoi
April 26, 2014, 10:30 AM
This looks interesting I might have to give this a go sometime. Can't wait to see how this turns out.

Sazabee
April 26, 2014, 12:06 PM
This... I'd like to see how this turns out, I think that having this on bigger scale would be pretty damn good.

Hopefully by the next time this comes around, I'll have done my projects to be able to join x.x

Bossguy
April 26, 2014, 12:19 PM
YES! I can't wait to see how it turns out, Dlinker. You will do that amazing machine justice.

Dlinker
April 26, 2014, 1:41 PM
^ Thanks for the vote of confidence, man. I'm finding myself way more excited about working on the kit than I expected, haha.

Speaking of excitement, I misunderstood the second condition in my haste to come up with an idea for it so I edited my post to reflect an important caveat, namely that the clasps are actually no longer needed hence why they need to be replaced entirely with something else. With that in mind, I was bouncing around several ideas in my head to customize the shoulders themselves.

Pirates, at least fictional ones, are usually known by their imposing and lavish appearance and I thought maybe some flared shoulders will add that feel to the kit. After a few hours of mulling over how to do it, I settled on something easy, but still appropriate: A kit-bash. I looked through my shelf to see if I had anything look like flared shoulders and my MG Strike Noir, the second MG kit I ever worked on, caught my eye. I checked out the compatibility and it looked proper so I went ahead and did some surgery, as shown in the pic below.

7241

Nothing complicated, just saw off the connecting piece from both kits, fuse the piece from the Crossbone to the Strike Noir's, and voila. Just need some clean-up, but it fits like a charm.

Squee
April 26, 2014, 2:42 PM
Cool build guys. The key is to keep making sure the other is working on the kit. I did this with a friend, and we both lost interest and worked on something else lmao

Dlinker
April 26, 2014, 4:54 PM
After working on HG kits since November, this one is a big welcome change and I've wanted to work on a Crossbone kit so my interest will probably keep on going until completion. Not sure about Chapel, though. This kit is more interesting (to me at least) than the one I sent him so he might get bored with it, haha.

Squee
April 26, 2014, 5:29 PM
Just a tip, the wrist joints tend to be very tight on the xbone. I've broken a wrist on the 2 out of the 3 x's i've built. :/

Zaku
April 26, 2014, 6:14 PM
Oh dang this is interesting. Nice shoulder mate.

Zeta-G
April 26, 2014, 6:55 PM
Sounds intriguing. I'm too much of a control freak to participate once this opens up to the wider forum, but I'll happily watch what others do from the sidelines. ;)

Dlinker
April 26, 2014, 8:57 PM
Nice, this is getting a good deal of followers. Hopefully Chapel and I won't disappoint each other and all of you, haha.

@Squee, I'll keep that in mind. The last thing I want to do on this kit is break parts so thanks for the heads-up.

@Zaku, thanks, man. My Strike Noir is now shoulder-less, but that will get remedied once I transplant the Crossbone's. Not a bad fit in terms of design, actually, so it works out well for both kits.

ChapelMkII
April 28, 2014, 10:00 AM
So it looks like the data migration may have ganked a few posts with it >.> Ah well, let's try this again!

After some delivery hiccups in the form of inept FedEx employees, I finally got Dlinker's kit, and I must say, I'm very excited to be working on this one :D

http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig04/10047730.jpg

It's the 2.0 Gundam Mk II! Titans, represent! XD

Despite my profile name, I've actually never built ANY of the Mk II kits, so this is gonna be a fun treat for me. As for the conditions:

Kit must maintain it's trusty Titans Blue for it's primary, but there must be some kind of two-tone paint job on those areas.
Dlinker wants to be able to show off the internal detailing of the kit whenever he pleases, so I need to detail the skeleton and make sure that the armor is easily removable.

This kit is going to be a double-edged sword in the early stages. On the one hand, the entire kit has already been de-nubbed and smoothed out, completely ready for assembly. But the catch to that was that D-Linker had already painted this kit once before as well, so I must now completely strip the original paint job along with the stickers. It's a shame too, because I like a lot of what he did on the kit. To add some small difficulty to this, I forgot to ask him to send the kit instructions with the package.

This,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-27%2023.02.07_zpswk1l9ls2.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-27%2023.02.07_zpswk1l9ls2.png.html)
Can look a wee bit intimidating when you don't know how it all goes together, lol.

Thankfully, I've already nipped that problem in the bud (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10047730t2/60/2), so I wont have to worry about that.

While the kit soaks for its paint stripping, I've been brain-storming how to go about fulfilling my requirements, particularly, the second one. I don't want the kit to break over time from repeated removal of the armor, so I'll be looking into feasibility of installing magnets in place of the pegs for those potentially affected areas, and I definitely will be breaking out the resin for some other goodies :P

Dlinker
April 28, 2014, 1:15 PM
Crap, I'm sorry about the missing manual. I seriously didn't even thinking about putting it in with the box; Goes to show where my train of thought was during that whole process. I'll need to make a list for myself of what to include with the darn kit the next time I participate in one of these. So far, it's two items: A better letter of conditions and the manual, haha.

I'm finding your plans for the kit to be very, very interesting. As someone who just started using magnets for their kits (and enjoyed it) I wish you all the luck on it, and not because there is any curse or strange voodoo going on with the kit :D

Bossguy
April 28, 2014, 1:36 PM
Awesome. These are going to be some amazing builds.

ChapelMkII
April 28, 2014, 1:57 PM
Crap, I'm sorry about the missing manual. I seriously didn't even thinking about putting it in with the box; Goes to show where my train of thought was during that whole process. I'll need to make a list for myself of what to include with the darn kit the next time I participate in one of these. So far, it's two items: A better letter of conditions and the manual, haha.

I'm finding your plans for the kit to be very, very interesting. As someone who just started using magnets for their kits (and enjoyed it) I wish you all the luck on it, and not because there is any curse or strange voodoo going on with the kit :D

Lol, hey don't worry about it. I misplace my manuals so often that I have the HobbySearch homepage bookmarked on all my browsers as a backup. There was actually a point where I almost included the link for the Crossbone's manual, because I completely forgot where I had put it. Wound up finding it in a stack of my roomie's Lego manuals on the other end of the house XD

And likewise. I don't think either of us will be relaxing until the kits are sent back out after completion, lol.

ChapelMkII
April 28, 2014, 9:37 PM
Began stripping paint as soon as soon as I got home.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-28%2019.48.45_zpslsbzydji.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-28%2019.48.45_zpslsbzydji.png.html)

Seeing all that metal flake swirling about the alcohol was a good sign for me that stripping the paint off the skeleton was going to be pretty easy -- and I was right! It took all of 5 seconds of scrubbing to clear up the largest piece of the torso skeleton. Then I went and tried scrubbing the backplate armor that went over it...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-28%2021.21.21_zpsmyhuywti.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-28%2021.21.21_zpsmyhuywti.png.html)

This pretty much happened to all parts exposed to the top coat. a section confirmed it wasn't harming the plastic any, but it looks like I'll have to break out a stronger solvent to get all the topcoat off >_< In the meantime though, I'll be able to strip all the metallic painted pieces in the skeleton that weren't exposed.

Also ran into a small snag when I was checking the weapons. Dlinker, the targeting camera for the beam rifle was not in the weapons bag when I opened it for the first time. I haven't checked the bag with the lower torso parts, but I can confirm it wasn't in the bags for the arms, torso/head, and weapons. It isn't still with you by any chance, is it?

Dlinker
April 29, 2014, 12:38 AM
Holy crap, isn't that piece of armor supposed to black-ish plastic? I didn't paint the armor at all and it completely wiped the color right off :shock:

It's a darn good thing I stopped using the stuff. Jeez, I'm having some major regrets now for even trying that product out on a model kit. It's a miracle nothing crumbled apart yet.

Also, regarding the rifle camera/scope, that piece flew off and disappeared to the Great Void of Gunpla Parts back when I was assembling the kit the first time. The rifle will forever be missing that piece until I get around to ordering a replacement.

Squee
April 29, 2014, 12:44 AM
Use magnets for the armor for easy removal! Just get rid of all the underlying pegs!

ChapelMkII
April 29, 2014, 1:55 AM
Holy crap, isn't that piece of armor supposed to black-ish plastic? I didn't paint the armor at all and it completely wiped the color right off :shock:

It's a darn good thing I stopped using the stuff. Jeez, I'm having some major regrets now for even trying that product out on a model kit. It's a miracle nothing crumbled apart yet.

Also, regarding the rifle camera/scope, that piece flew off and disappeared to the Great Void of Gunpla Parts back when I was assembling the kit the first time. The rifle will forever be missing that piece until I get around to ordering a replacement.

Yeah, that was about the same reaction I initially had. The stuff didn't want to budge and it got all cloudy on me after the alcohol was introduced. The underside was just fine though, and the fact that it sanded off is leading me to believe I can still strip it. And that is unfortunate to hear about the scope, but all hear just now was "Chapel gets to scratch-build something!" :P


Use magnets for the armor for easy removal! Just get rid of all the underlying pegs!

Way ahead of you, Squee! I just ordered 3 dozen neodymium discs (size 1/16" x 1/32") yesterday morning :)

Squee
April 29, 2014, 1:59 AM
Lol i just saw that sentence in your post.

Bossguy
April 29, 2014, 11:15 AM
Whoa. What happened to that milky looking plastic part? As far as I know, there ain't any white parts included with the MK II. Did the color just wash right off?

ChapelMkII
April 29, 2014, 11:37 AM
Whoa. What happened to that milky looking plastic part? As far as I know, there ain't any white parts included with the MK II. Did the color just wash right off?

I was using denatured alcohol to strip the paint and the topcoat he put on. The white you're seeing is the topcoat reacting to the alcohol, which aside from turning white refused to scrub off, but the plastic is still the same color underneath. It's getting the brake fluid treatment tonight.

Bossguy
April 29, 2014, 11:40 AM
Ok, few. Wow. The topcoat really reacted to the alcohol. I've never seen it fog up that badly.

thwalker13
April 29, 2014, 12:09 PM
That makes me curious as to what kind of clear coat it was.

Dlinker? Elaborate?

Dlinker
April 29, 2014, 1:32 PM
Ohhhh, okay, so it didn't somehow change the color of the plastic to white. I thought that was what happened, haha.

I used Duplicolor Perfect Match Protective Clear Coat Finish. Back then, I thought it would be a tougher clear coat that won't harm plastic much so I tried it out. It was tough alright, enough to need chiseling of some parts when I was taking the kit apart.

Bossguy
April 29, 2014, 1:35 PM
Dude, that stuff is used for cars! No wonder it was so incredibly durable.

Dlinker
April 29, 2014, 1:43 PM
Hahaha, that was exactly what I needed it for :lol:.

The results of one of my mad scientist phases... I haven't used it since then after realizing I don't really need something that tough after all.

ChapelMkII
April 29, 2014, 2:33 PM
Damn, stripping's gonna have to wait until tomorrow. In the meantime though, I threw the frame together to get an idea of what parts will be showcased without armor, and where to put magnets. Most of the detail on this kit is in the legs and upper torso, so the right leg and right upper torso will be the parts that get magnetized for half n' half display. It's been so long since I've done Non-AU/Pre-UC0097 Master Grade kit that I forgot what a lot of these are actually capable of.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-29%2014.05.44_zpswo2tvjuo.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-29%2014.05.44_zpswo2tvjuo.png.html)

Dlinker
April 29, 2014, 3:23 PM
^ Ahh, my good old MK.II. So nice to see its frame all posed up again, haha.

I need to get the frame for the Crossbone done tonight. I'm starting to get ideas for the color scheme already so a good visual aid is essential.

thwalker13
April 29, 2014, 4:29 PM
With that type of clear coat, you could enter that thing into a Gunpla battle and it be invincible.

The Mk.II frame is looking good Chapel. Can't wait to see those magnets come into play.

Dlinker, I'm curious to see what you're cooking up for the Crossbone.

Dlinker
April 29, 2014, 5:21 PM
Haha, it would have made for some excellent protection, but the way I applied it (too darn liberally), it also would have made the joints too tight.

Aside from the Strike-E shoulders, the rest will just be colors and right now, I'm considering a combination of what's used for the Epyon and Infinite Justice's Fatum pack, since both have a bloody red primary color.

Zaku
April 29, 2014, 6:15 PM
Magnetized armor. So this thing will have faster reflexes. Hehe

Dlinker
April 30, 2014, 10:59 AM
^Haha, I forgot about magnets giving that kind of an effect on suits.

So I worked on the Crossbone's inner frame last night and I realized it's going to take me a while to get the de-nubbing/clean-up phase completed. I understand most of it will be covered up in armor, but I seriously can't stand knowing that I didn't tidy up everything when I can do it. As such, I'm now sanding down any nub areas that need to be sanded and filling in pits with Mr. Surfacer 500 followed up by sanding. I'm doing the same on any armor pieces that need the treatment. Nothing will be spared by a very scrutinizing eye.

I'm shooting for the end of May as the latest I'll be done with all of it.

ChapelMkII
April 30, 2014, 11:53 PM
So my evening was a hilariously frustrating waste of my time. Got outta work with intention to get two things accomplished:

Start casting molds
Rectify that whole topcoat stripping mess

The first part went pretty easy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-30%2023.08.33_zpsdvjirxab.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-30%2023.08.33_zpsdvjirxab.png.html)

Then I turned my attention to the stripping of the kit. I went and bought a whole new bottle of brake fluid, and after waiting the same length of time when I stripped the Kampfer, I pulled out the parts and got to work. And in the end, all that effort yielded:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-30%2023.10.37_zpso04ozdpw.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-30%2023.10.37_zpso04ozdpw.png.html)

Jack. Didley. Squat. Why is this stuff so cruel?! I was about to resolve myself to hand-sanding it all off, when I remembered I had picked up a bottle of Tamiya Lacquer thinner for airbrushing lacquer paints. I figure, what the heck, it wouldn't hurt to try at this point, it's not like it's going to any bet--

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Chapel/2014-04-30%2023.11.53_zpskxqf9swn.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Chapel/media/2014-04-30%2023.11.53_zpskxqf9swn.png.html)

.... Of course I realize this this too late in the night to make any real difference, but at least the stuff is actually removable. It'll just take a little longer than I planned, lol.

Dlinker
May 1, 2014, 1:42 AM
Huh, what are you up to with that mold casting of the cockpit ball? I'm genuinely curious.

Also, it looks like we have discovered what can resist brake fluid, haha. Out of everything else, it was Tamiya Lacquer Thinner that did the job. Stuff isn't even as strong as normal lacquer thinner.

thwalker13
May 1, 2014, 7:29 AM
Who would have thunk that? Some good progress being made though.

ChapelMkII
May 1, 2014, 9:16 AM
Huh, what are you up to with that mold casting of the cockpit ball? I'm genuinely curious.

As you should be!

... You will find out as soon as I know that it works >:D

Dlinker
May 1, 2014, 10:43 AM
Haha, looks like I got something to follow up on later in the week.

As for the Crossbone, I finished surgery on the second shoulder, but I noticed I didn't cut as close to the desired border as I wanted so I got some sanding to do to clean it up a bit. Then, back to de-nubbing.

Zaku
May 1, 2014, 3:48 PM
Ooh man this is getting good. Casting parts? Top tier my friend. You have entered epic territory.

ChapelMkII
May 1, 2014, 4:12 PM
Aw shucks, I'm just trying to see if I can give this kit a little more character to call its own. But like I said at the beginning, I have to give Dlinker's kit my A-game, and that means playing to my strengths. If this works the way I want it to, it will be awesome.

Bossguy
May 1, 2014, 5:59 PM
Casting parts for the cockpit? Awesome. Are you going to pull a Sazabi Ver. Ka and give it the ability to be displayed separately?

Funny how the brake fluid didn't strip the top coat, but the lacquer thinner did. Definitely unexpected.

thwalker13
May 1, 2014, 6:02 PM
Wow, this is starting to get really good.

Dlinker
May 1, 2014, 7:07 PM
Yeah, it's starting to make what I'm doing for his kit inadequate, haha. Oh well, I'll have to compensate by making a good paint job, color scheme, and absolutely clean parts with no trace of nub marks.

1BadBB6
May 2, 2014, 12:49 PM
There's some cool ideas being thrown around in here, eagerly awaiting more progress pics.

Dlinker
May 20, 2014, 12:17 PM
Time to bump this thread. Now that I have time again to work on kits, I've made actual significant progress on the Crossbone.

That is to say, I'm on the verge of finishing nub clean-up. The inner frame and shoulder kit-bashing are all done so I may be able to start painting said inner frame by next weekend. It's taking me a while because I have to re-organize the space for mounting parts. My GM Sniper II is still there, but the metallic parts are done so I'll need to bag those, then use the space and skewers for the Crossbone. Pics of the frame will be up later.

Having said that, I'd like to mention how much more time-consuming the nub clean-up has been. With all due respect to ChapelMkII, there were a large number of pitted and gouged nub marks on many of the parts, which I had to fill first with Mr. Surfacer 500 to make them smooth/level before sanding. Then there were the thrusters.... It pained me to see the pits on those because there was no way to clean them up without losing detail. So, to make it easier, I went ahead and bought two of the 1/100 MS Vernier packs to replace them.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry for the delay. Life and work has been keeping me busy and my drive to work on kits hasn't been too strong lately. Here's the long-ago-promised pic of the inner frame.

7409

Kinda sparse for an inner frame, especially when compared to something like the 2.0 MKII. I'm at the process of doing a snap build of the entire kit so I can visualize the planned color scheme more. Still have to work on the new thruster parts too.

thwalker13
May 20, 2014, 12:50 PM
Those shoulders are looking really good man. I think they will fit right in with that kit.

Bossguy
May 20, 2014, 1:05 PM
Those shoulders will look excellent on the finished product. It stays with the slightly more block-y design of the original shoulders.

Dlinker
May 20, 2014, 3:42 PM
That's what I was thinking too. They look pretty close to the original and I'm hoping they're not too big once all of the armor is on.

Forgot to mention I made a big f-up yesterday with one of the legs. There is a sleeve piece that goes over the knee joint and I put it on backwards. I was wondering why it was hard to put on. Taking it off was darn near impossible. I had to resort to sawing one side and splitting the piece. Tonight, I'll see if I repaired it properly. Lesson learned once again: Take your motherf#cking time with building the kit.

Zaku
May 20, 2014, 4:22 PM
Man im sorry to hear about your F-up. I know that pain well. The shoulders do look good though. The look like they belong their.

Dlinker
May 20, 2014, 5:35 PM
I'll put up a pic of the repaired piece tonight, so ya'll can see how bad it was, haha.

Thanks for the kind words so far, guys. I'm hoping by this weekend, I can post up more substantial stuff.

ChapelMkII
May 21, 2014, 12:07 AM
Time to bump this thread. Now that I have time again to work on kits, I've made actual significant progress on the Crossbone.

That is to say, I'm on the verge of finishing nub clean-up. The inner frame and shoulder kit-bashing are all done so I may be able to start painting said inner frame by next weekend. It's taking me a while because I have to re-organize the space for mounting parts. My GM Sniper II is still there, but the metallic parts are done so I'll need to bag those, then use the space and skewers for the Crossbone. Pics of the frame will be up later.

Having said that, I'd like to mention how much more time-consuming the nub clean-up has been. With all due respect to ChapelMkII, there were a large number of pitted and gouged nub marks on many of the parts, which I had to fill first with Mr. Surfacer 500 to make them smooth/level before sanding. Then there were the thrusters.... It pained me to see the pits on those because there was no way to clean them up without losing detail. So, to make it easier, I went ahead and bought two of the 1/100 MS Vernier packs to replace them.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry for the delay. Life and work has been keeping me busy and my drive to work on kits hasn't been too strong lately. Here's the long-ago-promised pic of the inner frame.

7409

Kinda sparse for an inner frame, especially when compared to something like the 2.0 MKII. I'm at the process of doing a snap build of the entire kit so I can visualize the planned color scheme more. Still have to work on the new thruster parts too.

And here I thought I was being careful. My clipping technique wasn't anywhere near as refined then as it is now (plus, nifty new tools), so my apologies for any grief this has given you, Dlinker! >.>

And a round of apologies all for the lack of updates... Things have gotten "interesting" on my end of the world, but the end result is that I've got more time to focus on this project. Pics and stuff will follow later, but for now, All that stuff I was doing with the mold worked -- for the most part, anyways. The back half of the mold didn't go as smoothly as I like, but the imperfections are all on parts that actually won't be exposed by the skeleton. I'll still have to do some sanding and filing on those troubled spots. Worst case scenario, I don't get to do the silly stuff I had planned with cockpit, but the eyepiece came out perfectly, so that will be staying regardless.

Dlinker
May 21, 2014, 1:14 AM
What a coincidence, I was wondering where you'd gone off to earlier, haha. No worries on the nubs. It was a pain to do, but I know it's a necessary pain and it wasn't really that bad overall. I will say this: your clipping technique back then needed work :lol:

So I was able to sand and prep the knee sleeve that I almost FUBAR'ed. Here it is before, with a good amount of Mr. Surfacer 500 to cover up the dip left by the weld:

7417

And here it is after progressive sanding and put over the knee joint:

7418

Only a full primer coat will tell if it's smooth enough, but I think it's good to go. I also got started on the new thrusters. Kinda excited to see how they look on the kit because they're much more detailed and beefier. I have to do some surgery first so they can use the same connecting method as the old thrusters. Lastly, I finished snap building the kit and wow, the new shoulders give it so much more attitude. Too bad I can't post pics of the whole thing yet.

thwalker13
May 21, 2014, 7:47 AM
Looks like a solid weld. Hopefully it'll come out smooth.

Dlinker
May 26, 2014, 12:19 AM
I finally got the inner frame and some of the other grey parts primed, after a week of scheduling for a priming session that kept getting bumped off. The welds weren't perfect, but it only shows under close scrutiny so I'm letting it go for now unless I decide otherwise before painting tomorrow.

I think I'm going to request for an extension on this. I thought eight weeks will be enough to complete it, but it's not looking good thanks to the past three weeks being so busy for me.

Dlinker
June 4, 2014, 2:28 AM
Another bump, this time with something to look at other than text. I managed to find line-art of the Crossbone that I could color easily using Paint.NET and here's what I came up with as my final proposed paint job:

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The gun/rifle/big sword will be painted with Gunmetal, probably Alclad. The darker yellow will be gold, probably Alclad again, while the lighter yellow will be yet another Alclad product (Pale Burnt Metal). Standard grey areas will be Metalizer Buffing Steel while the inner frame and anything light grey is Alclad Aluminium with grey primer as the undercoat.

The red I'm going to pre-shade since I've been wanting to try it on an MG kit, same goes for the offwhite/Tan-ish white. Now I just need to find time to actually prime everything else first.

thwalker13
June 4, 2014, 7:58 AM
Very interesting and cool color scheme man. I think once the kit starting taking on colors that it'll really look great. And those various shades of gold will really give it that "pirate" feel.

jaqio
June 4, 2014, 10:09 AM
That's a very different scheme! This would look sweet indeed! Plus with the way Xbones is line scribed, It will look even better with the shading I think.

Dlinker
June 4, 2014, 10:42 AM
Glad you like it, gents :)

There are some small details here and there that aren't expressed in that line-art so I'm hoping it will look a bit better on the actual kit. For example, there's a clearly-defined area on the calves that I'm going to paint with the dark grey-ish blue so it's not all red on the legs. Then there are the shoulders. Speaking of which, maybe I should take a pic of their frame piece. I'll do it this weekend.

Bossguy
June 4, 2014, 11:09 AM
Haha, yes! That color scheme looks great. Good thing you worked on your detail painting. This suit is on a whole other level.

Zaku
June 4, 2014, 11:24 AM
Nice paint scheme the chest being so light draws attention to the chest emblem.

Dlinker
June 4, 2014, 1:36 PM
Thanks guys, I can't wait to get started on painting.

I got the idea of a lighter chest from how pirates in popular media tend to have their coats opened and shirts exposed. Tried to make it as close to an old-timey pirate scheme as I could, haha. Considering how big the parts are compared to 1/144 kits, my expectation is that masking for detail work will be easier.

And if it isn't, I'll probably be ranting about it here...

thwalker13
June 4, 2014, 1:49 PM
By all means good sir. Rant away. It's what these threads are for. haha.

And I think you nailed the old school pirate scheme on the head man. It looks great and really puts me in mind of a Pirate Captain. Now if just needs a, Hook.

Dlinker
June 4, 2014, 3:11 PM
Haha, the hook is a great idea, especially when you consider that the hands for the Crossbone aren't that great so sacrificing one of them isn't a big deal. Hmmmm.... it shouldn't be hard to scratch-build too. Something like an octagonal shaped wrist using plastic plate wrapped around half of the existing hand so it uses the joint, then more plastic plate to build the hook. Then cement everything in place and maybe add putty for gaps.

Man, if only they gave two sets of hands for the kit. You'll get a hook when you feel like it, and hands for when you're feeling like dual-welding stuff.

thwalker13
June 4, 2014, 3:18 PM
Haha, look at that, I've inspired you. I think a Hook hand would be awesome to have. Then it'd really look like Captain Hook.

Bossguy
June 4, 2014, 3:25 PM
Yes! And while your at it, a missing left eye would just make it that much cooler.

Dlinker
June 4, 2014, 5:27 PM
I may not do it for this kit, but I do have a Crossbone X2 Ver. Ka lying around here. Hook hand and damaged eye will be a reality with that one, along with a darker color scheme. While this one is red, that X2 will obviously be black. Blackbeard variant, baby.

This is why I love this place so much; You often get simple suggestions that can give birth to wonderful ideas :D

Bossguy
June 4, 2014, 5:57 PM
Also, a scratch built pirate hat and a beard would be perfect. Or a peg leg! Gah! So many awesome pirate things!

Dlinker
June 5, 2014, 1:49 AM
Haha, a hat would be beyond my ability so I'll need to find one from a completely different kit and just "borrow" it. A beard, I may be able to do, but in a subtle manner, like masking a section of the face plate off with one section being a lighter color and the rest being darker. I'd love to have two pairs of the weapons so it can dual-wield in pistol form.

Squee
June 5, 2014, 2:04 AM
Here's some inspiration. My friend did this awhile back. He kind of gave up the hobby due to lack of time, but man his mods were insane!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pUvJafbxoWo/Td2PpNAVQcI/AAAAAAAAOHo/7Pxt-FcqlUg/s1600/MG+Crossbone+by+Strike03x+1.jpg

Gave it a hook and used the pistol as a peg leg. XD

thwalker13
June 5, 2014, 7:36 AM
You aren't kidding. That peg leg is awesome!

Dlinker
June 5, 2014, 10:44 AM
Oh wow, that's a beauty. I love how he used the gun barrel as the peg-leg, haha. How he mounted the hook hand is intriguing. It looks way less complicated while still being effective. Reminds me to not ignore things that are not plastic too; Maybe I can just buy a small metal hook and superglue it to the mount.

Squee
June 5, 2014, 4:06 PM
I can't find the rest of his pics, but he scratch built the hook too, it's got a bit of a squareness to it to go with the overall aesthetics, but yea, putting a regular hook would probably be sweet. Imagine putting a fishing lure on there? A truly dangerous model then. hehe

Dlinker
June 5, 2014, 5:07 PM
^ Dude, you read my mind, I was thinking about putting a fishing lure on it. My older brother has some I can take, too. I'm noting all of this down for next year. This might possibly be my future entry for that HLJ contest, haha.

Baufrin
June 5, 2014, 7:20 PM
I love that.

Bossguy
June 5, 2014, 7:23 PM
I'm really enjoying how much love the Crossbone is getting these days.

Zaku
June 5, 2014, 7:36 PM
Man that thing is awesome.

Dlinker
June 6, 2014, 1:50 AM
I heard mixed stories about the kit, but I kept an open mind and I think that allowed me to enjoy it way more. For example, those loose joints. The legs on this X1 were indeed pretty loose in that if I held the kit horizontally, the legs would bend almost all the time on gravity alone. So I applied a few coats of Future on the two joint points on each knee and problem solved. Same goes for the loose ankles, neck, and Core Launcher.

Rather than complain about it, giving the kit some extra love paid off way more. I'm hoping ChapelMkII isn't having much problems with my MKII, haha.

Dlinker
June 16, 2014, 1:28 AM
Got some more work done on the kit. Well, just the rifle/pistol, actually. I thought it would be a challenge to mask it, but it wasn't so bad at least when compared to how much I did with the GM Sniper 2 recently. Once again, I went with the masking tape + Blu-Tak combo for masking with the Blu-Tak on curved areas. Here are the pieces before:

http://s20.postimg.org/55zp0wxeh/barrel.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/55zp0wxeh/) http://s20.postimg.org/nzlhxwvmh/pistol_handle_before.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/nzlhxwvmh/) http://s20.postimg.org/y78mo2789/sword_handle_before.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/y78mo2789/) http://s20.postimg.org/ns2gf5a1l/sword_guard_before_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ns2gf5a1l/) http://s20.postimg.org/hi76s5amx/sword_guard_before_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/hi76s5amx/)

And here are the pieces after:

http://s20.postimg.org/dmz7bu23d/barrel_after.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dmz7bu23d/) http://s20.postimg.org/k4i3vccgp/pistol_handle_after.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/k4i3vccgp/) http://s20.postimg.org/72wf5ho2h/sword_guard_after1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/72wf5ho2h/) http://s20.postimg.org/mzv727ggp/sword_guard_after2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/mzv727ggp/)http://s20.postimg.org/gregmd89l/sword_handle_after.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/gregmd89l/)

I'd say it was 95% successful. The other side of the barrel didn't have a clean edge to the gold so I have to repaint the affected area with Alclad Gunmetal again.

thwalker13
June 16, 2014, 7:30 AM
That is a great looking gold man. This project is turning out to look really good. That gun will certainly look ornate once it's all done.

Dlinker
June 16, 2014, 11:20 AM
Thanks, good sir. I'm hoping it does give off an ornate look once it's all done. I forgot an area on the pistol handle, though, so I'll have to mask and paint that soon. Got to say, I hate it when I miss an area for painting, haha.

thwalker13
June 16, 2014, 11:57 AM
I know the feeling. I've done that before many times.

Dlinker
June 30, 2014, 12:12 AM
So I promised to post up pictures of parts I sprayed with the red that I'll use for the entire build and here they are, consisting of half of the fuselage of the core launcher and a thruster assembly:

7770 7771

Tried pre-shading on them using a maroon color and it looks okay on the thruster part, but not on the fuselage due to how many small angles it has. Apparently, I'm not that good at this yet.

Also, I finished the rifle/pistol. Debating now whether I should flat coat it. The decals were a bit of a pain. They looked nice until I gloss coated them for added protection and adhesion, but it ended up making them stick out. Apologies for the bad lighting on these.

7772 7773

Zaku
June 30, 2014, 12:21 AM
I really like the two toned effect the pre shading gives. And the rifle/pistol looks awesome. I wonder if a flat coat would make the gold look dull?

thwalker13
June 30, 2014, 7:54 AM
The rifle looks exquisite man. If you're looking to flat coat it, I'd almost mask off the gold. Cause it sure does look good all shiny.

Chaser90EK
June 30, 2014, 8:08 AM
Awesome idea and results. Once I get my hobby station up and a few paint jobs under my belt count me in for the next round :)

Dlinker
June 30, 2014, 11:38 AM
That's part of the reason why I'm hesitating with the flat coat. I don't want to lose the shine on the gold, but I'm too lazy to mask them off, haha. I'll see how I feel later on.

@Chaser90EK, we'll hold you to that :D. It's pretty fun, but be prepared to go at it for the long-term. Well, it really depends on the criteria and such.

Chaser90EK
June 30, 2014, 1:23 PM
@Chaser90EK, we'll hold you to that :D. It's pretty fun, but be prepared to go at it for the long-term. Well, it really depends on the criteria and such.

I use to do blitz builds against other fraternities and sororities where you had to do a paddle from scratch based on a theme in a day...We should double down and do a blitz build of the Blitz Gundam :P

ChapelMkII
June 30, 2014, 2:04 PM
Nnnnng, evertyhing is looking so good on Dlinker's end, my lack of progress is making me feel really really bad now :(

Apologies all for the lack of activity from me. I lost my job in late May, and the whole thing has become quite the production (THERE BE LAWYERS INVOLVED), so my attention has been drawn away from the hobbies. I had hoped to be posting with better updates about the Mk II, but I ran into worst-case scenario involving those molds I was making. On first inspection, the pieces looked like they'd work, but after assembly, I was getting a good millimeter gap on the lower half of the torso frame. I determined one part of the casting was bad, but when I went to retrieve the original piece, the real problem became clear: A good trick for making molds is to melt the clay so that the mold is ensured to be level and secure the master in place. The piece was set when the clay was still too hot, and it actually deformed part of the piece. Thankfully, all these deformations are obscured by the frame, but what little work I've been able to devote to the kit has been nothing but carefully filing pieces so that that the frame can be closed up over it. Two steps forward, one back >_<;;

thwalker13
June 30, 2014, 2:16 PM
Man that really sucks Chapel. About the issues with the kit, and mostly about the job situation. I hope that you're able to resolve the issue without to much aggravation.

ChapelMkII
June 30, 2014, 2:28 PM
Fixing the kit will more than likely be a lot less stressful than dealing with the work situation. Orlando is already a bad enough place for full-time work that isn't from the theme parks, and the stigma attached to the crap I gotta deal with probably won't make it any better.

Dlinker
June 30, 2014, 3:47 PM
Don't feel bad about anything, seriously. Life can be a real b!tch so if it's currently kicking your rear end, you go ahead and take the time to get things squared away. As the motto goes, life always comes first.

Besides, you're still doing something on the MK.II. Not like you just decided to give up and keep the kit, haha.

Dlinker
July 12, 2014, 5:28 PM
Alright, so I spent most of my week off working on the Crossbone. And, I would have gotten more done if I didn't encounter this issue a few times:

7909

The masking tape there shows specs of grey on it. That's bits of the primer and two layers of paint coming right off. Luckily this particular piece was easy to fix, just sand it down, mask the metallics already painted, prime again, then re-paint. But still, it slowed me down. I don't even know why it happened. My hunch is some dried water residue after the initial wash (since the parts were air dried), but it's all speculation.

Now to the fun stuff. I finished painting all of the parts except the eyes, which I'm working on now. Here's the front chest piece and some shoulder armor:

7910 7911

The white was creamy in color when in the AB, but I guess I needed a heavier layer because it came out white. I'm okay with it, though. I also took the chance to work on getting a shiny metallic finish, again, and this time, it's with the emblem pieces. I noticed a mirror finish was achievable if you simply spray a heavy, but uniform layer and it was easy to get on these small pieces. Here is the skull piece for the chest with Alclad Gloss Black enamel:

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And here it is after I used Uschi Van Der Rosten Chrome powder (another thing I've been dying to try out). A little difficult to polish a small piece like this with so many nooks and crannies, but I think I got it done:

7913

Dlinker
July 12, 2014, 5:29 PM
I went over the image limit so I'll post the last pic here. This is the last of the emblem pieces, this time sprayed with Alclad Stainless Steel (another one of their hi-shine paints). Very happy with how they came out:

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Zaku
July 12, 2014, 7:01 PM
Nice all those parts look really well done. I really like how the skill turned out. Damn nice work man.

Dlinker
July 13, 2014, 12:24 AM
Thanks, Zaku. Those skulls and other emblems kinda saved my sanity, seriously. This build was starting to tire me out, working on it so much this past week. But when I saw that shine, my spirits went up again, haha.

Zaku
July 13, 2014, 12:47 AM
Haha i know how you feel masking off parts for my Gelgoog really feels like a chore then i get to doing mods and i gex excited and into it again. Its really a labor of love lol. Just a idea but if you did a black wash on that skull i think it would make the teeth and nose more pronounced. This crossbone is really gonna be sharp.

thwalker13
July 13, 2014, 9:39 AM
Those are some nice looking parts man. I especially like that skull.

Dlinker
July 13, 2014, 10:54 PM
Glad you like the skull, dudes. It didn't take long to do so I was surprised, in a very good way, at such a nice result.

And Zaku, you read my mind. I am indeed going to do a gloss black wash on the skull. Which reminds me, I have to clear coat them tonight. Time to brush on some Aqua Gloss Clear.

Zaku
July 14, 2014, 4:15 AM
Its gonna look even better.

Dlinker
July 14, 2014, 11:00 AM
If I have time, I'll get the wash applied today. Been busy working on decals, which is taking much longer since I can't use the default stuff. I have to rummage through my decal sheets and see what I can use, taking up more time than usual.

Dlinker
July 23, 2014, 1:31 AM
I finished doing all of the decals a couple of days ago. Good lord, that look way longer than I expected. I didn't want a repeat of what happened with the rifle/pistol so I used both setter and softer solution for each decal. I think it went a long way towards making the decals look nice:

8126

Some of these decals were a pain, though. Kept moving around even with the setter underneath. Then there was the whole figuring out which decals to use dilemma since I couldn't use any of the default ones. I had to scrounge up white decals from my collection. Luckily, the sheets for the MG Infinite Justice and Sword Impulse gave me plenty of good ones, along with a sheet I ordered from Samuel Decal a while back.

All that's left now is to handpaint some minor details I missed earlier, clear coat those, then off to panel line. I don't want to risk anything on this particular kit so I've decided to switch back to an enamel wash. If all goes well, I should be flat coating by next Monday.

Zaku
July 23, 2014, 1:39 AM
Those decals do look quite good. And what kind of flat coat are you gonna use?

thwalker13
July 23, 2014, 7:42 AM
Those decals look great man. Especially the Silver F91. The silver on the red looks awesome.

Dlinker
July 23, 2014, 12:27 PM
Huh, I never saw that decal as silver. I always thought it was plain boring grey, haha. That makes me like it a lot more now.

@Zaku, flat coat will be my usual, Vallejo Model Color Matt Varnish sprayed straight with the AB with no thinning. I want to try out the bottle of Model Masters Acryl flat coat I have here, but I want to minimize such experiments on this kit. I'll save that up for the G-Saviour.

thwalker13
July 23, 2014, 1:36 PM
I can tell you right now, unless you have a huge needle, it won't spray. And it dries so quickly that the tip dry will clog up the brush. When I 1st bought the stuff I tried it straight out of the bottle and it wouldn't work. You might have different results with a different brush and needle size, but it just wouldn't spray for me.

Dlinker
July 23, 2014, 3:10 PM
Considering my current method encounters tip-dry often as well, it won't be too surprising for me. Maybe I'll start at 20 PSI when I use it and see if shooting the stuff out at a faster speed delays the tip-dry.

thwalker13
July 23, 2014, 3:31 PM
I say test it out. Let me know how it works for you. I used it on the AGE-2R and the Kampfer Amazing before I switched to Alclad's Flat Clear Coat.

Dlinker
July 23, 2014, 5:08 PM
Yeah, I'm going to test it. It's a good thing you get a lot in the bottle.

Also, in general, I'm going to give flat coats at least a full 24 hours to dry before handling.

Zaku
July 23, 2014, 7:50 PM
You guys are speaking english right?

Dlinker
July 24, 2014, 1:34 AM
^ Haha, yes, we are. We were just discussing our experience and plans with flat coating. Right now, the issue is the frequent tip-dry that happens when spraying stuff with an airbrush. It's not really a big deal since flat coats don't have to be as careful or precise, but it's still annoying.

thwalker13
July 24, 2014, 8:10 AM
I'll say it is. Trying to clean that crap out is aggravating.

Dlinker
July 24, 2014, 10:48 AM
That's one of the reasons I bought a separate AB just for clear coats, primer, and flat coats. I use hardware store lacquer thinner to clean it up, but I still have to take the needle out every couple of weeks (during normal use) for a wipe due to it jamming. Why? Either the gloss coat or the flat coat is too stubborn to get dissolved from the needle.

Meanwhile, my normal color AB and metallics AB can go for a month without needle wipes. Which reminds me, I should get the nozzles soaked in Simple Green for a few days now that I won't be airbrushing anything in the next week or two. They got a good workout with this kit.

thwalker13
July 24, 2014, 11:47 AM
Yeah eventually I'll probably do that as well. I've gotten into the habit of thoroughly cleaning mine after every single use. Nozzle and needle both.

Zaku
July 24, 2014, 3:50 PM
What kind of airbrushes do you guys use? And is it just a problem of the flat coat being so thick?

thwalker13
July 24, 2014, 4:02 PM
I believe we both have the Badger Patriot. And for me it was just that particular mix of Flat coat. it dries and clumps so quickly that if you won't keep it mixed in the cup then it'll cause massive tip dry.

Zaku
July 24, 2014, 4:10 PM
Ok cool thats the one i was looking at getting. And are you mixing it with water or alcohol?

thwalker13
July 24, 2014, 4:20 PM
Mine was thinned with alcohol 2:1.

Zaku
July 24, 2014, 4:36 PM
Wouldn't thinning it with water keep it from drying up? Or does the alcohol make it stick or something?

Dlinker
July 24, 2014, 5:01 PM
Alcohol does make it easier to stick to a surface since it has no surface tension. I've tried spraying water-soluble paints using just water and it didn't work that well. Windex or a mix of alcohol and water worked way better, both of which little to no surface tension. I'm going to try it with my half-half mix and see how it behaves.

As for your AB question, thwalker13 is correct, I use a Badger Patriot for clear coats/flat coats. I have my pricier Iwata HP-CS for colors and non-metallics, though I did use it for clears/flats for a while. It encountered tip-dry too.

Zaku
July 24, 2014, 5:06 PM
Thats really interesting. In blacksmithing to get rid of surface tension in our quenching solution we use jet dry. I wonder what jet dry would do in paint. And thanks ive been really doing my homework on airbrushes and was wondering about that.

Dlinker
July 27, 2014, 8:56 PM
Thank goodness I went with an enamel wash. I'm a day ahead of my plans since I was able to finish panel lining all of the parts in a mere two hours. Earlier, I was able to spray a flat coat on all of the relevant parts so by Tuesday, I can consider this part of my project completed. Still baffles me how quick a flat coat session can be. It only took me 30 min and that was with coating each piece individually (due to various metallic details and wanting to keep the shine on the inner frame). I kept expecting it to take 2 hours.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to do a proper photoshoot on this kit per the rules so I'll just take shots of key sections, like the Core Launcher.

thwalker13
July 28, 2014, 7:43 AM
Glad to hear that you were able to get some work done man. Yeah I love flat coating, seems like it doesn't take as long as regular painting.

Dlinker
July 28, 2014, 11:28 AM
It really doesn't. I bet if I didn't worry about keeping the shine on metallics, I would have been finished in 15 minutes. Just dump some flat coat in the AB, put the PSI to 20 and just spray the entire kit all at once. Sounds like paradise, haha.

I checked out the parts last night and I noticed two parts with frosted decals :mad:.

They looked okay earlier in the day. At least they weren't anything huge or complicated, all three on the front/back crotch piece with one on back and two on the front. I swear, that's the last time I'm putting on red decals on a dark blue surface. Since ChapelMK.II may not be done with my kit anytime soon, I may try to remove these decals and put new ones in later on.