View Full Version : Outamyhead's work in progress thread

July 23, 2013, 3:49 PM
Well here is my work so far on Shenlong 1/144, not going to use the foil decals, they look tacky, and don't last very long before they start peeling and going horrible. This is also my first time using my airbrush, and painting a Gundam, I'm using Tamiya paints and thinner, the only thing that came from a can was the primer (I bought some Model Master white, and grey primer for the airbrush next time), and I plan on using Model Master semi-gloss for the top coat (I couldn't find Alclad semi-gloss, they didn't even have flat top coat).

Head pieces in flat white

Front skirt, fore arm sections, and main torso painted up flat blue

Rear skirt

Leg parts painted up flat white

Shield inner section painted up, over sprayed a little, but I might be able to fix that with another go at it.

July 23, 2013, 4:00 PM
Ah, working on a Shenlong or Altron Gundam I see. I have the old Shenlong 1/144 kit. It's in bad shape. Looks like your painting is going very well.

July 23, 2013, 4:13 PM
Yeah couple of mishaps with a little over spray, I have been messing about with pressure, distance, and how much paint I'm allowing to go through, only using 15-18psi, but I think I'm starting to get an idea on how to use double action now, was nervous at first about using the airbrush I was almost putting it off, but the paint mix went well, and I'm following the guides on how to maintain and clean the airbrush after use (pulling the needle out the front was great advice from one guy, pulls out so much junk with the needle, instead of further into the airbrush).

July 23, 2013, 5:03 PM
Nice progress. Any difficulty spraying the white?

July 24, 2013, 2:39 AM
Had to do two coats with the flat white, that may have been inexperience of using the airbrush though, gloss red, and the blue have been one session of paint and done.

July 24, 2013, 7:43 AM
White is hard to use on anything but white. And even then it can be annoying to use. I kinda dread using it myself.

July 24, 2013, 10:45 AM
That's actually not bad, considering it's flat white. The main thing to make it easier is to not use white-colored primer or else you'll never know how much you've painted.

Did you prime the parts or sprayed on bare plastic?

July 24, 2013, 11:10 AM
I used a can of Tamiya grey surface primer spray.

July 24, 2013, 1:26 PM
Oh yeah, you mentioned it in your first post and I missed it. What kind of grey primer for the AB are you thinking of getting?

July 24, 2013, 3:47 PM
I bought some Model Master primer, I was looking for Vallejo at the store, since they had all the small color bottles and from what I have seen of it online the paint and the primer appear to be good, so I got what I could find, the Tamiya shelf didn't have any either besides the spray cans. I might buy the Vallejo primer from Amazon, since they stock or third party the 100ml bottle.

July 24, 2013, 5:25 PM
Vallejo Surface Primer is good stuff, although it can be challenging to spray. I've never had issues with it, but a couple of people here have.

You can try buying it from spruebrothers.com. That's where I get all of my Vallejo stuff.

July 25, 2013, 2:49 PM
Got some work done last night, didn't have time to have another go at the shield.

Got some color on the head vulcan cannons.

Front skirt came out pretty good, just needed some small dabs of paint to fix what the masking tape made uneven around the edges, fore arm sections have had the finishing touch before top coat.

Side skirts had some small work done to paint what are the plate hinges, also painted up the claw blades, and the black edge for the claw lenses/eyes.

Breast plate is done, not sure how this will turn out for panel lining, paint went on a little thick around what is the top collar piece, lesson learned again I guess.

face plate is almost done lenses/eyes need some paint, main torso is done and ready for top coat.

July 25, 2013, 3:08 PM
Unless you sprayed really heavily to the point where you don't see the lines anymore, they will still be there for lining.

I almost forgot how chalky Tamiya flat paints can be. Even their Flat Black can look chalky.

July 25, 2013, 4:41 PM
Some really nice progress man. Looking really good. It surprises me how chalky they are like Dlinker said. Guess I won't be using those very much.

July 25, 2013, 5:07 PM
Haha, you can still use flat colors, but you may have to add some Tamiya Clear or even Future to remove the chalky look.

July 25, 2013, 5:12 PM
Yeah flat colors are more chalky than I expected, are there any good acrylic based flat paints, I have a bunch of old Citadel colors I haven't looked at since I packed them up to move.

July 29, 2013, 11:19 AM
Well Shenlong is kind of finished, I'll post the rest of the photos in the completed thread, but I'm waiting on some Gundam markers to show up, as I'm not going any further with the panel lining, after finding out that doing them with thinned down paint doesn't work on the more subtle areas.


Semi-Gloss worked out okay, actually smoothed out the flat paint, and gave it a good finish, although I think I need to look into thinning the top coat down next time, or getting a paint retarder, as it was very eager to clog up the airbrush.

July 29, 2013, 12:20 PM
Looks really good from that picture man. The thinned paint might have worked a bit better had you used a gloss top coat. Semi-Gloss still retains a little texture to dull down the sheen. So the thinned paint would still have an issue going over it smoothly.

July 29, 2013, 1:05 PM
Sorry, forgot to answer your question about flat paints. You can try Vallejo Model Color/Game Color/Model Air and Model Masters Acryl. I've only used Vallejo, though, and their flat paints don't have a chalky appearance.

September 3, 2013, 3:40 PM
Okay been a while since I mentioned anything about my current WIP, working on Wing Gundam 1/144, already not happy with the testors primer, it is coming away with the paint I applied, while trying to take the masking tape off, so there are some already evident patches on the shield you will see, once I get the photos up.

Going to go with gold on the wing leading edges, and the small parts.

Since I started on this a month ago, and didn't have time to get back to it, I thought I would experiment with pre-panel lining before prime and paint, looks okay so far, might do them after priming in future.

Also bought a moisture trap for the airbrush end of the hose from local-ish hobby and craft store (got it for under $20 with a coupon), was getting a glop of atomized moisture when I was just going for air, will see how that goes tonight, brush was working well apart from that, I think I'm finally getting the knack of it, just need to refine my paint and thinner mix, and see if I can get the enamel thinner instead of the acrylic from what I have read of other guys work with Tamiya paint.

September 3, 2013, 5:08 PM
I believe you mean lacquer thinner instead of acrylic for Tamiya acrylics, haha.

Curious to see what that pre-panel lining is like.

Regarding primer, if you have the money and can handle the fumes, perhaps going with a lacquer primer will be best. They're generally hassle-free aside from the smell of death.

September 9, 2013, 11:25 AM
Well, here is progress so far on the 1/144 Wing Gundam.



Pre-panel lining appears to work well for the most part.

Just some fine touches for this section.

Finally has a face.

The only thing I'm not happy about, and it's probably my fault, is the Model Master primer, I did thin it down a bit, but recently read that they normally don't need thinning. But it doesn't want to stick to the plastic, took tape off of a few sections after spraying, and there would be patches of paint that would lift off, mainly the wings that have given me this problem so they don't look great, but they will pass for now.

Next model will go back to good ol' Tamiya surface primer (I might buy the big jar of the stuff so I can airbrush it in future).

September 9, 2013, 12:36 PM
Progress is looking really good man. The gold is looking great, it's strange that the wing kits always looked good done up in gold.

September 9, 2013, 1:09 PM
Nice masking job and the gold is very pretty. Just the right kind that fits with the Wing's design, to my eyes.

And yeah, Tamiya's primer will probably give you far less headaches. What big bottle are you referring to? The only one I've seen is the bottle of Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer which is kinda small.

September 9, 2013, 2:29 PM
Oh, well to me it's a large bottle (compared to that little jar of Model Master primer I wish I hadn't bought), it's the same size as the Acrylic/lacquer thinner bottles.

The glare from the camera flash covers up the horrible wash of white I did to fix the paint problems, could always pass it off as Wing been through some rough resistance.

September 11, 2013, 1:23 PM
Hand painting from here on out, until the top coat anyway.


Main torso is done, washed the intake vents, painted the shoulder muzzles gun metal, used an old technique from when I painted warhammer 40k (over ten years ago) stuff for the green lens piece.

German grey for the vernier rocket nozzle, the back of the foot, and the heel piece.

September 11, 2013, 3:16 PM
Your hand painting looks great man. Did you mask or just take your time and eyeball it?

September 11, 2013, 3:41 PM
Just eyeballed it, only had one shoulder piece that went outside of it's area for the gold, so I had to do a little fine touch up, and the crotch piece, needed a little white paint to square up the blue.

The lens trick was just a flat green for the base colour, and then I used a bright green wash of Tamiya Park Green X-28, in layers (something I would use to build a fade up effect on power swords for my Warhammer 40K figures).

September 11, 2013, 4:40 PM
coming along great, can't wait to see it finished

September 11, 2013, 6:18 PM
Nor can I, I want to get on with my competition piece that's still boxed.

September 11, 2013, 6:24 PM
I always enjoy seeing techniques from painting miniatures getting applied to Gundam kits. Great progress so far and the handpainted areas look great.

September 12, 2013, 1:09 PM
Buster canon is done.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/Outamyhead/Gundam%20stuff/th_20130911_235854.jpg (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/Outamyhead/media/Gundam%20stuff/20130911_235854.jpg.html)

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/Outamyhead/Gundam%20stuff/th_20130911_235642.jpg (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/Outamyhead/media/Gundam%20stuff/20130911_235642.jpg.html)

Dry brushed the end of the barrel gun metal, to give it a slightly used look. Next up, top coat and assembly.

September 12, 2013, 1:10 PM
Very nice man. looks good.

September 12, 2013, 1:12 PM
Might want to lower the flash on that camera. It's washing the pic with too much light and it's a bit tough to make out your work.

September 12, 2013, 2:55 PM
I'd agree with Dlinker. It's hard to make out the colors and details that you're done.

September 12, 2013, 3:43 PM
Got one without a flash, however it seems to be a problem with light in this one, I'll try and get some better ones tonight.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc161/Outamyhead/Gundam%20stuff/th_20130911_235727.jpg (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/Outamyhead/media/Gundam%20stuff/20130911_235727.jpg.html)

September 12, 2013, 5:13 PM
If you have an exposure setting, that might help brighten it up just a bit. My S4 doesn't have an ISO setting, but it does have exposure levels and increasing it by 1 or 2 (the max setting) helps when taking pictures in not-so-good lighting conditions.

September 12, 2013, 9:02 PM
Use lights from the side/ I use a one fluorescent on each side and sometimes add a LED flashlight from the bottom.

September 13, 2013, 11:55 AM
Well it's all done, it's in the completed section.

September 13, 2013, 1:27 PM
Yep, just saw it. Great work overall, especially on an old kit. Some things stood out for me, though: the paint looked a bit thick in that close-up shot and the edges on some of the areas looks a bit iffy.

I'm sure you had to mask those so I understand how difficult it can be to get a nice clean edge. I encountered a similar thing when doing the stripes on my Valkyrie; I thought the edges were straight, but I was wrong after taking the tape off.

September 13, 2013, 2:51 PM
Yep, just saw it. Great work overall, especially on an old kit. Some things stood out for me, though: the paint looked a bit thick in that close-up shot and the edges on some of the areas looks a bit iffy.

I'm sure you had to mask those so I understand how difficult it can be to get a nice clean edge. I encountered a similar thing when doing the stripes on my Valkyrie; I thought the edges were straight, but I was wrong after taking the tape off.

Yeah, that's pretty much what happened, combined with paint and primer lifting off with the tape around some edges, or in the case of one of the claws on the forearm, just lifted off one entire side of paint...Just horrible primer mostly.

What do you do to correct something that didn't get a straight edge, I've just been painting by hand anything that is slightly off?

September 13, 2013, 3:53 PM
If it's a curved edge, I do the same thing you do and handpaint it with a slightly thinner version of the paint. For everything else, I put the tape back on as straight as possible and re-spray. Toothpicks help in making sure the masking tape is as close to the surface as possible and all edges of the tape are straight with no loose fibers. For me, I find that uneven edges are caused either by the tape not stuck enough or there are loose fibers.

Get yourself that Tamiya primer and quick, man. Either the bottle (thin it with their brand of lacquer thinner at around 1:1 or 1:2 ratio paint to thinner) or the spray cans work well. If going for the bottle, aim for the grey one.

April 21, 2014, 10:42 AM
I know this isn't Gundam related , but it's holding up my work on them so I figure I should post progress of it, Back to The Future Delorean, has finally picked up some steam, now just a case of hand painting the rest of it.

Trying out pre-shading for the first time, seems to be working out okay, bodyshell has been a time waster, but it's getting there.

April 21, 2014, 10:49 AM
And I mentioned this idea on the HLJ forum page, while the site was getting repaired, but here is what I am planning with Bearguy III once I am done with the current project.


April 21, 2014, 11:00 AM
Go Giants! I'm not a baseball fan, but my dad is. That's going to look really cool once finished.

April 21, 2014, 11:13 AM
I'm excited to see how the Delorean will come out. One of my favorite movie cars and I loved all three films. The Bearguy mock-up is looking good too. Easily reminds me of the Giants.

April 23, 2014, 1:23 PM
So some small progress on the BTtF Delorean, the devil is in the details...And this model is a little odd in that department.




Oh yeah don't mind the cat in the background, he just likes being on the table when I'm working on stuff.

April 23, 2014, 3:02 PM
Details are looking nice so far. What's the oddity about its details?

April 23, 2014, 6:27 PM
They don't entirely match the actual reference photos I found of the Delorean from the movie, seems like they put things in that they didn't have reference of, in the case of the electrical box on the left of the capacitor, it's upside down.

June 2, 2014, 2:43 PM
So not so much progress on the Delorean (although I have been working on that)


June 2, 2014, 3:10 PM
I really like those displays. And the R2-D2.

June 2, 2014, 3:16 PM
Again, those display shelves. I'm going me three of those when I get my own place, haha.

Is it just me, or is that big R2-D2 made out of Legos?

June 2, 2014, 3:22 PM
Yeah they are nice for the $65, my wife spotted a nice TV stand as well, not sure how that was able to fit in the car. The to-do pile is up to six now, after the Delorean, but I placed the kits where I will have them displayed once they are done.

Light fittings aren't supplied with these cases, so I bought a three pack of the fixed LED lights, screw the fitting into places, and then twist lock the light into the fitting, was $30 for a three pack, and a three port switch and power supply.

- - - Updated - - -

Again, those display shelves. I'm going me three of those when I get my own place, haha.

Is it just me, or is that big R2-D2 made out of Legos?

Yep, got it on May 4th, last one at the store, the big Batman Tumblr was a scratch build from Lego as well, used the Lego designer program for that.

June 2, 2014, 4:25 PM
Very nice, you should post up some pictures of the Tumbler. I'd love to see some close up shots of it.

I've always loved Lego. Even since I was little. But lately, Lego has gotten super expensive.

June 3, 2014, 1:16 PM




Speed/air brakes fully functional


June 3, 2014, 2:31 PM
That sir, is awesome! I love it! I'd totally buy that if Lego actually made it.

June 3, 2014, 3:01 PM
That Tumbler is all kinds of amazing. The only thing it needs is a flame effect on the back exhaust similar to the little Bat-Mobile next to it (which looks accurate despite the small size).

I'd buy one too, and build it the same day.

June 3, 2014, 6:06 PM
I had to hunt around to get those front wheel and tyres, eventually found them on Ebay, I think they were from a Mindstorms kit from years ago, Lego designer has them as parts you can use to design something, but they may not necessarily make them still (which was annoying for a couple of weeks), which I found out when I tried putting through my list of parts to Lego.

I have seen someone build one where the front end came apart for a bat pod to emerge from it, I'd be happy to figure out how to make the roof slide back instead of being on a hinge.

June 3, 2014, 6:13 PM
Man, those Lego builds are seriously nice! Love that tumbler in particular.

June 12, 2014, 12:22 AM
A bit of progress with the Delorean worst part is over with regarding the dashboard



Had to make the time circuit lever out of that green putty from games workshop.

June 12, 2014, 1:42 AM
Whoa, that dash is pretty detailed. Looks good, paint application is just right. Did you have to use a reference to paint it or did you wing it with what looks good? If I was working on that kit, I wouldn't know what to paint which color without some kind of reference, haha.

June 12, 2014, 7:47 AM
That is some amazing detail on that dashboard man. I have to ask, how in the seven hells did you paint those gauges?

June 12, 2014, 12:11 PM
Whoa, that dash is pretty detailed. Looks good, paint application is just right. Did you have to use a reference to paint it or did you wing it with what looks good? If I was working on that kit, I wouldn't know what to paint which color without some kind of reference, haha.

Yeah I was lucky and found some detail photos of the dash online, and I had to watch that part from the first one, where he was giving a VW camper a run for it's money, kind of sad for a lovely sounding V8, that tops out at 95, I can understand why most Delorean owners crammed a crate, or small block Chevy in there instead.

That is some amazing detail on that dashboard man. I have to ask, how in the seven hells did you paint those gauges?

I used my old fine detail brush from my war hammer 40K figure painting (still got a bunch of figures I need to paint up, and a couple of sets that never made it over from my parents place), they are still a good set of brushes and I try to take care of them, I was using a consistency that was almost like dry brushing, had to wash off the brush and get more paint every other dial marker, the red was worse, that stuff dries out quick.

July 3, 2014, 1:11 PM
Well I got done sorting the parts, and sanding off the nubs, put together what parts I could...Kind of surprised with this kit, most of the external armor goes on like a sleeve, I'm still painting up the inner frame parts, going to paint the bow backpack, although I don't think I will be using it, doesn't fit with the Giants theme, priming tonight maybe even some actual paint will get put down, need to get some gloss coat, hopefully they have some of the alclad stuff.


July 11, 2014, 1:51 AM
Okay got some work done, primed and pre-shade


Here are the results





July 11, 2014, 7:50 AM
I really like the subtle pre-shading you did with the red. It looks really good.

July 11, 2014, 11:38 AM
Yeah I didn't want it being too striking, just enough that should stand out and look like a kind of leather or fabric feel to it, like a catchers mitt, or the padding the catcher wears, I think it will really pop when I get it together with the black painted bodywork, and grey inner frame stuff, also got an idea for the feet since they have a bit of detail underneath. I have to get a stencil cut out for the SF Giants logo as well, that might be a little tricky, but I think it will work better than trying to paint orange onto a small area where it will most likely bleed under the tape.

July 11, 2014, 3:01 PM
Can't wait to see how it looks with the black. I'm trying to picture it in my head, but I can't, haha. Good stuff so far.

July 11, 2014, 4:33 PM
Going to look like this, but probably semi gloss, with sub panels being grey and mat coat

July 11, 2014, 6:01 PM
That's a neat mock-up. The addition of some grey sounds like a great idea.

July 12, 2014, 5:04 PM
I really like the subtle pre-shading you did with the red. It looks really good.

I have been following Justinus's rule of when pre-shading, to use the next color down from the one you are going to use as the main color.

- - - Updated - - -

Okay so I'm going to have to make the orange darker, after my wife mentioned it, and I looked at the results under normal light probably have to pre-shade again.

July 12, 2014, 5:08 PM
You don't want to try post-shading?

July 12, 2014, 8:18 PM
I'll try it out on a small part and see what happens:) never done that before.

July 13, 2014, 12:22 AM
Hopefully it works out since you're going by that rule, which does give a cleaner effect.

July 13, 2014, 3:47 AM
Okay looks a lot better now




And yep finally painted the black armor panels and pre shaded the inner frame stuff, because I got the stencil done for the face...I'll take the masking tape off tomorrow, I know I'll have to do some final touches to it though.


July 13, 2014, 9:42 AM
The black looks a tad grainy, and it almost appears as there is something on the forehead. Like tape or something.

July 13, 2014, 3:21 PM
Yeah the stencil I cut out for the logo is there I haven't taken it off yet.

Paint seems okay on other parts top coat might sort it out, normally how it worked in the past with the flat colors, and this is semi gloss.

- - - Updated - - -

Turned out a lot better than i thought, just some small touches to straighten some edges and it will look great


And the missus woke up, painting the feet and paw pads white is out the window, going to be Grey instead *sigh*.

July 13, 2014, 10:58 PM
I can see where the logo needs touching up, but overall it looks fantastic. The new color does look better too, a much warmer orange.

How did you get the stencil for it?

July 13, 2014, 11:57 PM
I got a print out of the SF Giants logo that I found on an image search, and then I free handed it with a pencil at first on a piece of masking tape, then used a fine black pen to draw solid lines for me to cut out with my model knife.

July 14, 2014, 7:51 AM
You did a pretty amazing job on it man. Despite the needed touch ups, it looks really good.

July 16, 2014, 1:43 AM
Little bit more done, painted all the Grey stuff, fixed the logos on the face plates, and did some detail work on screw heads I had found so far



Happy face

Oh shi...RUN face

July 16, 2014, 7:52 AM
Grey parts are looking really good, and I love what you did with the eyes on the angry face.

July 16, 2014, 11:36 AM
This is coming along nicely. The face plates look so nice, especially the red eyes. The lighter red at the borders gives those eyes more depth. I'm surprised at how much detail is on the feet.

July 16, 2014, 11:40 AM
Thanks, did a thin wash of the red I had already thinned down for the airbrush over the black, and the parts that will be under the armor will get top coated matt, while the rest will be semi-gloss.

Yeah I was surprised by the feet as well, I might do a very thin wash of black to pull out some of the detail.

July 16, 2014, 6:35 PM
Little bit more done, painted all the Grey stuff, fixed the logos on the face plates, and did some detail work on screw heads I had found so far



Happy face

Oh shi...RUN face

So I take it your a SF Giants fan? Pretty cool paint job (even though I'm an Angels fan).

July 18, 2014, 1:48 AM
So I take it your a SF Giants fan? Pretty cool paint job (even though I'm an Angels fan).

My wife and her dad have been Giants fans for ages, maybe this will start a trend of Mascot Bear guys...Future build off?

- - - Updated - - -

So I hit a small snag when putting him together


Not sure if it was a case of too much paint on there, the socket area wasn't quite right, or the hip section wasn't fitted quite right, but this has already been sanded down for a thin coat of primer and a re spray to try again, also had trouble with the ankle on the other leg, had to break out the super glue and a rubber band to clamp that pain together , even with the armor sleeved on that didn't help...pretty sure it was something to do with the polycap for the foot.

Anyway here is a photo of how far I got


July 18, 2014, 7:52 AM
Seeing it partially built makes me like the color scheme even more. It's looking good, sucks about the paint though. But hopefully the 2nd time will work a bit easier.

July 18, 2014, 11:36 AM
Ouch, that's an unfortunate snag. If you sanded that rounded piece already, maybe you can try sanding or shaving wherever it's contacting on the torso.

It's looking great so far, though. The colors are perfect together.

July 18, 2014, 11:56 AM
Yeah I shaved out a little of the hip socket in that area, will give it a light lick of paint tonight, missus doesn't like the angry face, but since it got such a positive response he's going to be wearing his war face at Tatsu Hobby in August.

July 18, 2014, 1:49 PM
Haha, make sure to take pics of it at Tatsu Hobby. Nothing better than seeing a mascot kit with its game face on.

July 21, 2014, 10:30 PM
Bear guy is complete finally, he's in the ego zone.

July 22, 2014, 12:35 AM
Yep, just commented. Came out great, a fitting representation of the team. What are you working on next?

July 22, 2014, 5:55 AM
Well I was thinking about the HGUC Unicorn full armor destroy mode, or the Byarlant Custom, I don't think I'm ready for MG Talgeese yet.

July 22, 2014, 11:30 AM
The Byarlant Custom would be an excellent mid-way point before transitioning to the Talgeese, I think.

July 22, 2014, 11:40 AM
Either the Byarlant or the FA Unicorn would be a good one to do before the Tallgeese. As both are larger kits with a lot of plastic.

July 22, 2014, 11:35 PM
I think I'm going to build the byarlant first, I need to get a couple of colors for it, but it's been on the shelf for almost a year and it was the thing that blew my mind when I watched that episode of Unicorn.

I have something special lined up for the Unicorn, so far one of the paint ideas for the physco frame looks good, got a couple of other ideas knocking about.

August 14, 2014, 12:06 PM
So I have all of the external light blue/grey parts primed, just need to pre-shade, and hit with colour, anyone ran into an issue with Tamiya primer almost turning into silly string, or kind of cob webby, I think I figured out what was wrong, I thinned the mix down to 2 or 3 parts thinner to 1 of primer, or do I need to get some form of retardant for the paint mix?

There are so many parts to this kit, I haven't got to the sub sections of the joints, and limbs, and the dark armour sections, just the light blue, and red pieces, I even had to make more clips to hold the red pieces.

August 14, 2014, 12:58 PM
Hmmm, you shouldn't have to. I've thinned Tamiya primer 1 part primer to 1.5 parts thinner with no issues so it should be fine. What thinner are you using?

August 14, 2014, 5:43 PM
I am using Tamiya's Lacquer thinner.

I think I found my answer on Reddit, someone else had a question about Tamiya primer, and one of the answers was about reducing the PSI down to 10, since if it is on too high, it will dry before it gets to the part, I had reduced the pressure to about 15 or there abouts, and thinned to about 3:1 and that improved it, I think I was using it too thick, and pressure was too high...Although I didn't have this problem with the Delorean since that was my first try with thinned primer in the airbrush, Bearguy had a couple of issues with though, thought it was just the nozzle having an air leak.

August 15, 2014, 1:17 AM
Yeah, that will do it, especially with how much you thinned the mixture. You didn't want to go all the way to 10 PSI?

August 16, 2014, 7:40 PM
Thought I was okay with 15 to 20 like regular acrylic paint that is thinned, learned another lesson.

August 22, 2014, 1:24 PM
So all the pale blue parts have been painted, and some have been subtly pre-shaded.




Still got to paint the inner parts of the thrust sections red, and then clip, sand, and prime the other runners of sub armor grey parts, and dark blue pieces (already ran out of clips to hold pieces, handful of red parts, and over 40 of the pale blue).

August 22, 2014, 1:50 PM
Pretty good pre-shading there. Did you have to do any seam welds on those tanks?

August 27, 2014, 2:49 AM
Surprisingly no, they seemed to work pretty well just being assembled and sanded a little.

- - - Updated - - -

Okay got the worst of the red main thrust parts painted, just need a couple of slight corrections on one part, and then a touch of yellow on a couple of others, then I can topcoat, and move onto the other parts





August 27, 2014, 11:21 AM
Did you pre-shade the skinny raised lines in the big red part on the last pic?

August 27, 2014, 1:23 PM
Did you pre-shade the skinny raised lines in the big red part on the last pic?

Yep, only parts I didn't pre-shade were the skinny thrust parts for the back of the legs.

August 27, 2014, 3:53 PM
Aha, so my eyes weren't fooling me. Nicely done, man. Always good to see subtle pre-shading.

September 9, 2014, 3:07 PM
So a few hours of filling in with 15 year old green putty from Games Workshop (so old, that where the two halves meet, it has gone off) I have filled in all the horrible gaps they left, it didn't look like that in episode 4, my build won't either, now just got to take the other sub frame parts off the sprue, and prime...And then take the dark blue parts off the sprues and prime them as well.


September 9, 2014, 3:16 PM
Very nice, taking the time to fill in those unsightly gaps. How easy was it to work with the Green Stuff?

September 9, 2014, 3:49 PM
Kind of tricky to fill the areas at first, but once you get some applied it gets better sort of like plasticine at first, once it had gone off, I could shave off the excess with the hobby knife, and then sand or file the rest down, it has a texture a little tougher than candle wax is how I would describe it.

I think I just need a little more for one heel piece where it dipped lower than the level to the plastic part, and then it should be okay for priming up.

September 9, 2014, 11:11 PM
Wow, that's a crazy amount of filling. And good to know Green Stuff lasts that long!

September 9, 2014, 11:58 PM
^ I'm amazed at that too. Whatever he's got is almost a collector piece now, haha.

September 10, 2014, 2:40 AM
Got another strip of the green putty I haven't started using yet, does it appreciate in value like a Ferrari? ;)

September 10, 2014, 11:33 AM
^ If GW changed the formula for it during those 15 years, it just might have some increased value. But only for 40K/GW modelers, haha.

September 18, 2014, 12:20 PM
Filled in parts turned out okay, I may have to use pla plate in future though (dunno who sells that), but the inner frame parts are all painted up in the base colour though, just need some fine detail completed, and then I can top coat and move onto the dark blue outer armour, and the green tubing, and the six yellow parts, then I should be ready for next Saturday.






September 18, 2014, 1:02 PM
Looking good. I can still see a tiny bit of the filled in spot, but since it's not in full view when on the kit, it shouldn't be a problem. You got a hobby store nearby? If so, they should have some Evergreen styrene sheets available.

September 18, 2014, 3:09 PM
I have a couple of choices for model stores, there is a Hobbytown USA, and D&J Hobbies, not sure if Tatsu sells pla plate, or something like that, I'll check with them next time I'm there.

September 18, 2014, 5:03 PM
Hmmm, all three of those places should have something, though Tatsuhobby may be too small for it. I could easily be wrong, of course.

September 26, 2014, 3:08 AM
Almost done, just need to paint and top coat the armor parts, and the yellow sections, and do something about the green parts...i discovered some wash paints from 15 years ago from my Warhammer days, still sloshy (haven't opened them though) probably use them for the power cables.




And I have some parts assembled now, fore arms look impressive so far.


September 26, 2014, 10:36 AM
Those painted parts are looking excellent. Special mention to the claws; Your fill job really adds that extra completeness to them.

October 1, 2014, 4:30 PM
Thanks, I'm really happy with how they look now they are assembled, I should have time to get a couple of photos of the painted armor tonight, and the green cable lines...Deadline is Sunday for the Tri-City X meet, going to be burning midnight oil I think.

- - - Updated - - -

So it's complete now, I'll post pics in the other section.

- - - Updated - - -

For my next project, I shall start on the HG Unicorn Full Armor: Destroy mode, and if I do a good enough job on it, I shall enter it for the GBWC (Yeah I know I probably don't have a snowball in hell's chance of getting anywhere) I have some fun ideas though, already tried one on a spoon for the psycho frame, probably going to start with the weapons, lot's and lot's of weapons.

If I get that done in time I will build the old HG 1/100 Epyon for Tatsu's non-UC themed gathering, or take Bearguy again with his cute face mode.

October 1, 2014, 5:03 PM
Oooh, interesting to see your experience with the FA Unicorn. I'm assuming you're going to stick with the static default pose for it?

October 1, 2014, 7:57 PM
Not sure, I know you are pretty much stuck with it being grounded with those boosters, might just be the weapons and shields.

October 12, 2014, 10:04 PM
So I don't remember bluefin having a deadline date for entering the GBW but I have missed it, not too worried since I have barely got anywhere with Full Armor Unicorn, and after the local model meeting, neither of my recent kits would do well (and Bearguy has a third party logo on it). I shall continue working on it, and will make sure it's done right.

October 13, 2014, 12:57 AM
Good on you to keep working on it. Probably better for you in the long run. Nothing worse than taking a lot of time on a kit and then encountering mistakes later on due to rushing to make a contest deadline.

November 3, 2014, 3:27 PM
So I have done some work on my HG Unicorn build, I haven't got pictures of the after being painted yet, they need some final hand painting detail done, but here are some before most of it got painted.




Really didn't think the photos were that potato, apparently they are...Anyway, chain gun barrels are metallic grey, the muzzles are Titanium silver, plan on painting what appears to be the barrel brackets gun metal, to break the colour a little. Grenade, and rocket pods are medium blue, the other parts like the bazookas, and beam rifle will be German grey.

I have the beam magnum rifle to paint up, ammo power cells have been painted, got to cover them up, rockets and grenades need priming and painting. Then I can move onto the kit itself, got some ideas going for that, just need to see how the main armour paint idea works out on a spoon.

November 3, 2014, 5:02 PM
Looks good from what we can see in the pics. How was it spraying those bazookas and gatling lasers?

November 4, 2014, 4:39 AM
Bazooka weren't so bad, something about the German grey takes longer to dry not sure what. Gatlin guns are a two step process, figured it was easier to paint then mask the barrels and then paint the rest, seems to have worked out, but yeah the painting of parts inside the gap was a little tricky.

November 4, 2014, 12:22 PM
All those weapons, Almost a nightmare in and of itself. But they certainly are looking good man.

December 3, 2014, 6:58 PM
Okay ran into a snag with the semi-gloss topcoat, it kind of orange peeled on some of the parts, I'm going to ditch the Model Master water based semi-gloss, and I'm going to order the Tamiya X22, and XF35 semi-gloss, and see if going over the top coat evens out. Something about getting to the end of the jar of the current stuff just decided to give me all sorts of trouble I don't normally get, like dry tip on the airbrush, and just not covering very well on the parts.

The good news is the rocket and grenade pods turned out okay, and the magnum beam rifle just needs a little touch up.

December 4, 2014, 2:27 AM
You could always get the flat base and mix it with future.

I think semi is 1:15 base to gloss, flat is 1:5.

December 4, 2014, 10:39 AM
That sucks. Tamiya should work better for you. I recently tried their X22 and it sprays beautifully. Strength-wise, it works for what you need.

December 23, 2014, 12:38 AM
Okay so new top coat and the parts look a lot better, little bit grainy in spots but much nicer.




December 23, 2014, 11:31 AM
The weapons are looking nice, indeed. Thinking of doing some washes on them or leave them as is?

December 23, 2014, 8:47 PM
Was thinking about some panel line wash for the magnum beam rifle.

January 13, 2015, 3:22 AM
Okay small update, painted up almost all the metallic parts relating to joints, under armor coverings, the set of hands, and some thruster pieces for the side of the legs.






I may have to put this project to the side since the RG build needs to get done for March, not only for here, but the One Year War themed event at Tatsu also in March.

January 14, 2015, 6:38 PM
Got the psycho frame stuff done, the paint I had originally made, well the metallic part of the mix just clump in the bottom of the airbrush, so I made a new batch using the titanium silver, since it goes on so nice with the airbrush, or by hand (it's what I used for the gatling muzzles, and the hubs of the arm and leg joint sections) didn't want just plain semi clear green, nor did I want the full metallic paint, this mix seems to work from different angles and how the light hits it, like the shield parts are semi-transparent even after coating it with paint, and then everything else is solid looking in direct light, and from another angle you can see partially through.





Just got to get all the main armor done, and other white parts, hopefully it turns out as good as I am envisioning in my head.

January 26, 2015, 1:35 PM
Got some more stuff done over the last couple of days

Pre shading


End results


Just got the main outer armor left to paint up, and top coat all of these parts, and then I have the feet, and the booster/fuel tanks to paint up and that should be it.


January 26, 2015, 3:14 PM
Green pre-shading? This is the first time I'm seeing this done on a kit that will be painted white. It gives off a subtle green glowing effect from what I can see on the shield pics.

January 26, 2015, 5:06 PM
the green preshading is a interesting idea.

January 26, 2015, 5:27 PM
Green pre-shading? This is the first time I'm seeing this done on a kit that will be painted white. It gives off a subtle green glowing effect from what I can see on the shield pics.

Yep that's what I'm going for, I remembered Justinius's tutorial on pre-shading, how certain colors will accent the final color. I want this Unicorn to have that green glow effect like it did in episode 7...Turned out better than I imagined so far.

January 26, 2015, 6:46 PM
Really cool decision you made. It'll definitely make it stand out.

February 8, 2015, 2:11 PM
Kit is done, over in the ego zone.

February 8, 2015, 3:03 PM
What's next on the plate?

February 9, 2015, 3:55 PM
Well the theme of the next Tatsu event is Earth forces and Zeon suits prior to Char's Counter Attack, so I shall build the RG GP01 Zephyranthes, hopefully before the end of march when the event is due, and the build off here...Kind of looking forward to this one, it's my first RG and it looks like less of a nightmare than Unicorn was, can't believe they somehow molded/connected the hand parts while on the sprue, or the hip joints and connecting parts are a different plastic but on the same tree.

Reckon I will start with the frame first, and the core fighter.

April 8, 2015, 1:57 PM
So this isn't my next project, but most likely the one afterwards, my wife bought another Bearguy kit, the version F she recently decided on a theme...I'm going to try and make this


Look like this


I'm already looking into getting Pla Plate, and figuring out what I need to do to make this happen, the most troublesome one will be C3PO, with the mid section of exposed wires, and the circular disc thing just above, everything else is just straight titanium gold, and one silver ankle and foot.

August 28, 2015, 4:20 AM
So I have been getting into the painting of Tallgeese, I don't have room for the boosters or the cannon, so I'll get to those when I get the inner frame and armour out of the way.





Preshaded the yellow sections with a light orange, also used it on the head crest before hitting it with red, the shoulder ball armour is royal blue and black mix, so I got rid of the transparency of the blue and at the same time got the mix pretty close to the original colour. Going to weather this kit as well, and do something else I haven't done before.

I'm hoping to get this all done by the 27th of September for the Tri-City model show meet, it will be my second time there.

August 28, 2015, 11:16 AM
Oh wow, I think you're the first one here that decided to keep the yellow (or yellow-ish) color on the TG. Progress is looking nice.

August 28, 2015, 11:26 AM
Oh wow, I think you're the first one here that decided to keep the yellow (or yellow-ish) color on the TG. Progress is looking nice.

Going to try and keep with the weathering (never done weathering before) and paint scheme on the box, except for the some minor changes like the light grey colour for the boosters and a couple of other sections, that light grey just doesn't work for me.

August 28, 2015, 11:27 AM
The pre-shading is looking really good man!

September 8, 2015, 12:32 PM
Getting decals out of the way for the main body, then I can free up some holding sticks for the boosters, and dober gun to get painted and completed.






September 8, 2015, 12:47 PM
Very good looking decal placement man. Tallgeese fever is still running strong!

September 8, 2015, 12:49 PM
Thanks, my first time using Micro Sol not as scary as it makes itself out to be, Yeah definitely year of the Tallgeese, must be due to the III.

September 8, 2015, 3:12 PM
mmm GTI gotta love it. nice progress.

September 8, 2015, 3:48 PM
Looking good, have you ever used any other decal setter? Im using some humbrol stuff and dont think its that good.

September 8, 2015, 5:52 PM
No this is my first time using anything beyond warm water, I went with Micro Sol since it was a popular name that kept coming up when browsing other scale model forums (mainly cars, or planes).

September 14, 2015, 6:23 PM
A little further along, now parted out and ready for prime and paint the boosters, other part of shield, and dober gun is being worked on. Pre-shading is still there, the lighting just drowns it out, and if I have time I will try and weather it a little.





September 15, 2015, 1:46 AM
Looking very good!

September 15, 2015, 11:26 AM
I really like the added the red on those hip parts. The smaller indentations now give off the impression that they're lighted.

September 15, 2015, 12:58 PM
Are those the decals that came with the kit? Of did you find a waterslide set?

September 15, 2015, 1:15 PM
It's a waterslide set (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181195042949?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

September 15, 2015, 2:08 PM
Really nice work so far man.

September 15, 2015, 3:28 PM
It's a waterslide set (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181195042949?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Thanks. How is that set? I asked because I've bought a few 3rd party decals that weren't the best. I saw it some time ago andI've been debating about getting when I get a tg1 to go with th e 2 and 3 that I have.

September 15, 2015, 3:44 PM
Thanks. How is that set? I asked because I've bought a few 3rd party decals that weren't the best. I saw it some time ago andI've been debating about getting when I get a tg1 to go with th e 2 and 3 that I have.

Well it's new to me as well, but from all the watching of other people's builds, and other forums related to planes, and other vehicles, I use Micro Sol, it says to use it on the area before placing the decal, I did for the first couple, but it was a little awkward when the decal didn't place straight, so I would place the decal, dab it dry with a Q-tip as best I could, and then apply Micro Sol to the decal, and you can see it seep under the decal.

September 22, 2015, 3:51 AM
So one of the new things I am trying out is a custom base, it's still mostly base coat, with some of the preshading done...

Tooth pick is there to make sure I didn't lose the hole for the brass rod to slot into.

September 22, 2015, 1:14 PM
Base looks great. I instantly thought of rocks, gravel, and concrete upon seeing it.

September 28, 2015, 4:47 AM
Still got a little preshading to go, but I'm going (hoping) for the ice field tundra that the box art, and the episode that's infamous with Tallgeese and Heavy Arms. What I'm hoping will look like snow is regular sand, and the big chunks I hope will look like ice, is roughly sand washed clear glass shards I got from Michael's.

I should have looked into resin for making the base, I used Elmer's clear school glue to bond everything down, I have learned you have to seal the wood before you put something like glue on it, as it gets drawn into the wood. the base bowed really bad, but I fixed that, by wetting the underside with water once the top was dry and set (I figured the topside expanded, so wetting the other side would do the same), placed the base on empty paint jars on each corner then put a weight in the center (bag of sand that I used a little of), and a heavy enough box (wife's large shoe box full of nail polish) on top to force it back straight again.

- - - Updated - - -

I just need to finish of some small details that need painting, and then I will try my hand at weathering for the first time.


- - - Updated - - -

Tallgeese is completed, and in the ego zone.

September 28, 2015, 8:37 AM
Just from the that picture, the Tallgeese is looking really good!