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Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 4:29 PM
Hi guys! I'm not so big on posting current progress, pictures, etc., but everybody else was doing one and I felt left out. I might not post a lot of pictures because I don't have a proper camera, but I will at least post updates. I'm currently working on the HGUC Byarlant Custom, and I'm in the painting process. I got a can of Tamiya Color Dull Red, and I found out that it's more of a brick red than a maroon, so I got a container of Tamiya Clear Red to brush on to make the color maroon.


*edit*


I'm also looking for tips here. I want to paint the inside of the thrusters red, but I don't know how to mask the outside. Can someone help me please? Thanks!

thwalker13
May 25, 2013, 9:28 PM
I don't mask mine at all. I lay down a layer of Chrome Silver using a toothpick. Then after that I paint in a layer of clear red. Makes for a really good affect.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 9:40 PM
A toothpick? Interesting. I'm still contemplating how I'm going to do this, as I want all of the red to be the same color. Thanks for the tip! Also, can you tell me if Tamiya Clear paints leave brush marks after a couple coats? I've noticed on Prime92's custom Titanium Sinanju that it hardly shows any brush strokes at all. After the first coat, brush strokes are relevant, but on the third and fourth coat, you can't see them.

thwalker13
May 25, 2013, 9:47 PM
I use Tamiya's clear red quiet a bit. And I normally put down 1 layer of it. Cause the more layers you add, more you lose that transparent affect. But I really don't have a problem with streaks when I use it.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 9:47 PM
Cool! Thanks thwalker!

*edit*

Do you thin the paint?

thwalker13
May 25, 2013, 9:54 PM
I do not. I paint with it straight out of the bottle.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 9:55 PM
Excellent. Thank you so much for your help Thwalker.

thwalker13
May 25, 2013, 9:56 PM
Not a problem man. Any time. Hope your project goes well.

V0LTES-V01
May 25, 2013, 11:01 PM
I might not post a lot of pictures because I don't have a proper camera, but I will at least post updates.
A cellphone camera should suffice. Then you can just tweak the image with a graphic software like Photoshop to make it more presentable.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 11:17 PM
I guess, I'm just not that great with lighting, etc. I only have an iPad 1, hoping to upgrade it this year, so I'll be borrowing our family's camera or my sister's iPod.

Dlinker
May 26, 2013, 12:49 AM
Regarding the clear paint stroke marks, just make sure you use as few strokes as possible or else you will end up with some ugly marks due to how fast it dries. Let sit for an hour, then apply the next coat.

Bossguy
May 26, 2013, 10:54 AM
Thanks for the tip!

Bossguy
May 27, 2013, 11:11 AM
Almost done masking the parts that are to be painted. I'll post pictures when I have time.

thwalker13
May 27, 2013, 3:09 PM
Awesome man. Can't wait to see them.

Bossguy
May 27, 2013, 7:18 PM
Thanks thwalker! Here are the parts: 5242 I wish I could say everything is going smoothly, but the liquid mask is so aggravating that I think I might just try to trash it and go with masking tape. I also noticed that the masking tape was peeling (from sticking it on my skin to many times) so I'll have to do that over. I have time, since the weather here is getting rainy.



*edit*

Sorry for the sideways picture. It seems I photographed it the wrong way.

Dlinker
May 27, 2013, 8:33 PM
Glad to see you're not getting discouraged by your set-backs, which are all normal for this hobby, haha.

What color scheme are you going for, anyway? Not sure if you mentioned it before.

Bossguy
May 27, 2013, 8:52 PM
Thanks! I'm just trying to paint all of the red on this kit, thus eliminating the stickers.

thwalker13
May 27, 2013, 9:15 PM
Eliminating stickers is always a + in my book. And it's good to not get discouraged. Endeavor to Persevere. That's what I always try to remember.

Bossguy
May 27, 2013, 11:01 PM
Thanks! I have already put accidental nicks and grooves in the surface of the thrusters trying to get that stupid liquid mask off. I'll just pretend they're dents from battle, but they still irk me. Masking is my least favorite part of modeling so far.

Dlinker
May 28, 2013, 12:18 AM
You and me both. Imagine a part you have to mask three times, one after the other and you have to wait a day in between each masking session so the paint you're going to cover up can handle the tape. It makes me shudder...

About the nicks and grooves, don't worry too much about them. They're what makes the kit yours, I always feel.

Bossguy
May 28, 2013, 12:22 AM
Good point! Kind of like chips in pottery! "It gives it personality."

That part sounds terrible. I assume you're talking from experience, and I hope I never have to do that. I'd probably screw it up.


Re-masked some parts, but still only half done with masking.

thwalker13
May 28, 2013, 7:48 AM
I have never had luck with masking. Every time I've tried it's ended in a horrible mess. Granted I was using only what I have laying around. Blue painters tape. So I'm sure that has most of the blame put on it. But keep it up man. All those little nicks and scratches will turn into memories and learning experiences you'll carry over to every build you do.

Brotzmann
May 28, 2013, 8:46 AM
I stopped using the liquid masking solution because of similar problems. It worked OK sometimes but I also had a hard time pulling it off or it took the paint off when I pulled it off. I have tried the Mr. Hobby Masking Sol and Microscale liquid masking tape both with different levels of failure. I ended up having to repaint things when I tried it so much I quit using it. I now just use blue painter's tape if I mask at all. It always causes me too much rework.

Dlinker
May 28, 2013, 10:35 AM
Good point! Kind of like chips in pottery! "It gives it personality."

That part sounds terrible. I assume you're talking from experience, and I hope I never have to do that. I'd probably screw it up.


Re-masked some parts, but still only half done with masking.

Yeah, I'm in the process of doing that kind of terrible masking right now with my Dynames. It's an old NG kit so it's to be expected, but still....three colors for one part of the legs and one of those colors is for a circular portion. I think I'll be done with the parts this week. I think, haha.

The great thing about it is the more you do it, the better you get at it so what you're doing now will serve you really well in your next kits. One other thing: take it slow when masking so you only have to do it once.

Bossguy
May 28, 2013, 11:33 AM
Thanks everybody! If I knew how hard masking would be I may not have even started this, but now I'm determined to finish it. The reason I wanted to attempt this project was that I thought it would be a good first jump into customizing.

@Thwalker: What problems did you have? Did the paint soak through the tape?


@Brotzmann: I agree with you, liquid mask is a pain to use. It's also the thing that has caused me the most setbacks so far in this project.

@Dlinker: Good luck with that masking. Good tip with the taking it slow part. Will one layer of painters tape suffice? Should I add more? The main problem is with the sides/walls of the vent/thrusters where you have to curve the tape over a very small surface. Going over that again will be a pain.

thwalker13
May 28, 2013, 12:14 PM
It soaked through the tape, it got up under the tape cause the paint lifted the tape right off the part, the tape left ugly sticky residue on the underlying paint. It was a mess.

Dlinker
May 28, 2013, 1:11 PM
One layer is usually enough, even with normal painter's tape. Adding extra layers won't really do much in terms of covering the area, unless it's to cover tiny or oddly-shaped spots and even then you just use the proper size.

For something curved or conical like thrusters, feel free to use more than one layer if you can't cover everything at once. For the thruster edges, it might help to cut small triangles of tape and use those instead of a normal strip. Another important thing to watch out for: Make sure your tape, especially the edges, is as flat as possible so no paint can get underneath. A toothpick or a blunt needle can help a lot in doing this.

Bossguy
May 28, 2013, 4:32 PM
Cool! Thanks for the help! Thwalker, that sounds like a nightmare. It worked out in the end, right? Thanks for the tip Dlinker! For the thin walls on the vents I had to use straight tape without sticking it on my skin. I'm going to do a lot of sticky cleanup after this is done.

Dlinker
May 28, 2013, 5:01 PM
Here's to hoping your efforts turn out well. If they don't, live and learn, haha.

Bossguy
May 28, 2013, 5:57 PM
Thanks! I hope it turns out decent, if it doesn't I'll have to order quite a few replacement parts, haha.

Bossguy
May 29, 2013, 11:17 AM
Basically finished masking except for the thrusters, which I'm wondering if I should just hand paint them, due to all the trouble they have caused me over these past few days. They wouldn't be the same color red as the vents, but it woould probably be easier than masking and spray painting them. Suggestions?

thwalker13
May 29, 2013, 12:09 PM
I always hand paint mine. Which at the moment I have to. Are you wanting the exterior to match the red or the interior of the thrusters?

Bossguy
May 29, 2013, 12:11 PM
The interior. Thanks! I think I'm going to hand paint mine.

thwalker13
May 29, 2013, 12:14 PM
What I normally do with mine is I paint the whole thing with Model Masters Chrome Silver. Then I put down a single layer of Tamiya's clear red for the inside. Then a dab of bronze on the actual rocket down inside the thruster. This may change from kit to kit but it looks really good.

Bossguy
May 29, 2013, 12:35 PM
Thanks! Should I thin the paint a bit?

Dlinker
May 29, 2013, 1:14 PM
For the Clear Red? You can, but it should be okay to apply as is.

Bossguy
May 29, 2013, 1:47 PM
No, for the enamel paint. I'm going to hand paint the thrusters. I would rather have a different shade of red for the vents than screwing up with spray painting.

Dlinker
May 29, 2013, 2:59 PM
You can try it, but I never thin my enamels when I use them, even with MM Chrome Silver.

Bossguy
May 29, 2013, 9:13 PM
Thanks! I just need to re-mask 2-3 parts and then I can go into the next step! Also, do you think regular masking tape will work, or should I use painters tape instead? I'm using dyed masking tape rolls used for crafts, since they're the most available.

Dlinker
May 30, 2013, 12:46 AM
As long as the tape sticks well to the surface, you should be okay. Really, anything that covers the surface works fine too. For example, to mask some circular areas on the Delta Plus I recently finished, I used Blu-tack to mask it.

Bossguy
May 30, 2013, 10:50 AM
Cool, thanks!

Bossguy
May 30, 2013, 6:33 PM
If this is considered a double post, please forgive me. I have decided to re-mask only one part that I did early on in the process. The tape some other parts have started peeling off a tad bit, and even though the tape has not been stuck on my skin, it still peels off slightly around the borders. I'm just going to run my finger over the tape right before painting so it will stick. I'll have to repeat that process every time I spray or hand paint. Crossing my fingers that no paint will run under the tape. It should be fine if I spray in light coats.

Dlinker
May 30, 2013, 6:36 PM
This is your WIP thread. Double posts are a fact of life for them, haha.

Can't wait to see your efforts. Handpainting areas that are masked always scare me because of how easy it is to not be so precise.

thwalker13
May 30, 2013, 7:33 PM
You should see my thread. It's filled with double and triple posts. So you're good mate. And I'm with Dlinker. Can't wait to see how your efforts turn out.

Bossguy
May 30, 2013, 8:28 PM
Thanks for the support! Honestly, if it wasn't for you guys cheering me on I would probably have just abandoned this project and build the kit without any stickers applied. My biggest fears with this project is my finger strength and hand painting the clear red. My fingers aren't the strongest, and last time I tried spray painting (a month ago) it was hard. I'm afraid that the clear red will bleed through the mask, or the brush will dislodge a piece of tape, resulting in a red-purple spot.

thwalker13
May 30, 2013, 8:38 PM
Then I've got a tip for you. Use your surroundings or even your other hand to brace your painting hand. It will steady your hand and fingers, and cause far less mistakes.

Dlinker
May 31, 2013, 12:29 AM
I may be misreading your post Bossguy, but I find being delicate with my hands more important than finger strength when handpainting. You don't need much strength to apply paint from a brush or toothpick. If you're feeling really worried, perhaps you can do some practice runs on some sprues.

Also, thwalker13's tip is very important. I use the edge of my table to help brace the part and my painting hand, because my hands aren't steady at all especially if I'm handpainting a small detail at 12am.

Bossguy
May 31, 2013, 10:53 AM
Thanks guys for the tips! Dlinker, I was talking about the nozzle on the rattle can. It was a tad difficult to push down. I had the most trouble with the Testors One Coat Lacquer cans. Those seem to be the hardest to push down.

Dlinker
May 31, 2013, 11:21 AM
Ah, so I was misreading your post a bit.

It just means your fingers will get a nice workout then, haha.

Bossguy
May 31, 2013, 11:38 AM
Yep! My fingers can do push-downs while spraying, haha!

Bossguy
May 31, 2013, 6:12 PM
I was going to paint today, but the temperature has surprisingly rose from a frigid 50 degrees to the 90s in such short notice. The forecast says it'll be like this all weekend. Project postponed.

Bossguy
June 1, 2013, 9:39 PM
Never mind what I said before about the weather. Unfortunately, the Weather Man says it'll be like this all of next week, so I'll have to do the project in the mornings.

Bossguy
June 2, 2013, 12:05 PM
I primed the parts this morning, and it was kind of hard. I accidentally sprayed thick coats, and I hope the paint doesn't bleed through the tape. I had no problems pushing down the nozzle. Here are the parts drying. The camera makes some parts look like I didn't spray enough on the part, and it is true, but it exaggerates the mistakes greatly.

thwalker13
June 2, 2013, 1:39 PM
Spraying with cans takes practice man. It took me a few times to really get the hang of it.

Bossguy
June 2, 2013, 6:12 PM
Yeah, I hope to grow in skill in the future. I'm glad my first project is a HG. I have already noticed over-spray underneath the tape so I'll have to clean it up after I'm done. I'm planning on doing a second coat later today since it wasn't eighty-some degrees today. More in the high seventies. Do you have any tips on how to clean up lacquer over-spray? I looked it up but didn't find much. I unfortunately do not have lacquer thinner either.

Bossguy
June 2, 2013, 7:11 PM
Sprayed a second coat of primer on the parts ten minutes ago. I made a couple boo-boos by touching the part accidentally. I now see more over-spray, a little more major. Again, please help! I don't know what to use to clean up lacquer over-spray!

thwalker13
June 2, 2013, 7:49 PM
Lacquer is really hard to clean up. I really don't know of anything that will be safely clean it up.

Bossguy
June 2, 2013, 8:20 PM
Hmmm, not even lacquer thinner? Will the lacquer thinner eat away at the plastic like enamel thinner? I might just buy some tamiya lacquer thinner, take a Q-tip and dip it in to the solution, then rub off the excess paint with it when the project is done. Do you think it'll work?

Dlinker
June 2, 2013, 9:37 PM
If the area that was oversprayed is primed, then you should be able to use lacquer thinner to clean it up. If not, then it's a risk because lacquer thinner does make plastic weaker without a protective layer of primer.

However, you're not going to be coating the part so I think (a wild guess) it should be okay. Worth a try.

Bossguy
June 2, 2013, 9:57 PM
Thanks. Will the lacquer thinner get rid of the primer too?


*edit*


Never-mind. I did some more fishing and found that I could use Mr. Color Thinner (rather expensive, but worth it, I guess) to strip off the paint, then use rubbing alcohol to take off the primer.


*edit (double style)*


I tried the 99% rubbing alcohol on one of the arts with primer and scrubbed at it. It took it right off. I know it isn't fully cured, but it surprised me on how easy it was. I'll test it on it again tomorrow, when it's cured.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 10:35 AM
I hand-painted the thrusters and some other details last night. I'm noticing imperfections in the paint, such as air bubbles. I'll do a second coat again today. I hope it will fix it somewhat.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 1:41 PM
Brushed on a second coat on the parts today, and I'm noticing that the paint is bleeding under the mask. I'm going to have to do a lot of clean up after this is done.

Dlinker
June 3, 2013, 2:28 PM
The handbrushed paint has the air bubbles? Somewhat common depending on how you brushed and how much.

Sounds like the paint job is kicking your butt. Keep at it, though. You can only get better.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 2:42 PM
Yep, it's beating me up. Guh. I hate hand painting.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 3:22 PM
I'm revising my plan. I think I was too ambitious with the tiny details that you can't even see, such as those tiny red dots on his forearms. I'm going to either erase those dots, or simplify them.

Dlinker
June 3, 2013, 5:09 PM
Don't worry, you'll get better as you start relying on handpainting more. I think it takes the most time to do properly, out of all the skills you can build in this hobby.

Along with adaptability, which you seem to be exercising now, haha.

thwalker13
June 3, 2013, 6:53 PM
Hand painting certainly does take a very long time. Especially the more precise you get with things. I can take hours to paint the smallest things because I want to be as precise as I possibly can be. But Dlinker is right, you can only get better the more you practice.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 8:34 PM
Thanks guys. Practice makes almost perfect. This seems like the minifigure nightmare I thought I left behind a couple years ago, haha. I'm going to start spraying the red on the vents tonight.

Bossguy
June 3, 2013, 10:35 PM
I basically finished spraying he parts in one sitting (or standing) partly due to my impatience and a YouTube video that instructed me to do another coat on the part every 2 minutes. It took me about five- ten minutes to finish spraying a coat on all of the parts, so I just went around in circle. I accidentally sprayed too close to the parts a couple of times. I'll have to work on that. I was going to brush a coat or two of Tamiya Clear Red, but now that I see the color I might not. The pictures on the web make the red look more like a rust color. Here are the results: 527152725273

Again, sorry for the rotated pics. I keep forgetting to take the pictures sideways.

jaqio
June 4, 2013, 7:09 PM
I like the color as is myself. I see that this is going to look pretty good already.

Bossguy
June 4, 2013, 9:29 PM
Thanks! I did two coats of clear red on top of those parts, and I think I overdid it on the butt thruster. I might have to strip the paint and start over. I'll try to post pictures soon.

jaqio
June 5, 2013, 12:38 AM
Looking forward to seeing them.

Bossguy
June 5, 2013, 11:22 AM
Thanks Jaqio! I stripped the butt thruster last night with rubbing alcohol and a small toothbrush in about thirty minutes. I cleaned the part with dish soap afterwards. There is still a bit if residue paint, especially in the vents. The leftover paint doesn't show up on camera well. Here are the parts. As you can see in the pictures, the painted red is a decent match with the color of the stickers. I hope to finish this project by next Wednesday.

thwalker13
June 5, 2013, 12:21 PM
Looking really good man. Can't wait to see it all together.

jaqio
June 5, 2013, 12:45 PM
Great job Bossguy! And that red matches real good. You know having to strip paint is one thing I always hated doing myself. Because it seems like you can never get to those residule bits of paint that just stay on the part. But you seem to have come across something that works.

Dlinker
June 5, 2013, 1:07 PM
Still making good progress, it seems :)

The red looks much better in those photos too. And already stripping paint? I wasn't brave enough to do that until just recently, haha.

Bossguy
June 5, 2013, 1:41 PM
Thanks guys! I feel you Jaqio, the little paint bits that are left on the part are driving me insane. Yes, Dlinker, I stripped the paint. I was reluctant to do it, bit I concluded that this was the best way to go. I was scared that the alcohol would eat the plastic the whole time I was cleaning it, haha.

Bossguy
June 5, 2013, 1:51 PM
*Update*

Just primed the butt thruster. I don't think I need to post pics, seeing as it's just one piece of plastic. I will move on to the color coats tomorrow, if the weather is decent. I've been thinking about what I did wrong last time, and I think I used too many brush strokes. What if I just went around the whole piece without lifting the brush, therefore creating one massive "stroke." Would that work?

Dlinker
June 5, 2013, 3:04 PM
That might be a good idea. There were a few times I've handpainted where a single stroke made a smoother finish. See if you can practice the stroke first before applying the paint.

Bossguy
June 5, 2013, 6:04 PM
Thanks for the tip! Will do.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 12:12 AM
A not-so-quick update. I peeled off the masks for the parts that I handpainted (drumroll please), and I am surprised on how well it turned out. There was some bleed here and there, but a Q-tip with lighter fluid fixes that easily. Did you know that a bamboo skewer works well as a paint remover for grooves and straight edges? Just dab the pointy end in thinner, then scratch away at the paint. This doesn't harm the plastic in any way. I also clear coated the inside of the thrusters as well as the crotch piece with Future (thanks for the recommendation Thwalker!), since they have been curing for about three days. The crotch piece was the one that I was worried the most about. It turned out as nice as I could have hoped for. The bamboo skewer did wonders here. I first ran the bamboo skewer over the unwanted paint, then ran over the remaining scraps with a Q-tip moist with lighter fluid. It's hard to explain. Here are the parts.

The picture for the crotch wasn't great. It makes it look like the black has stained the side of the part. Sorry.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 12:57 AM
Good example of a situation that isn't as bad as you thought it would be, haha.

The parts are looking nice. Hopefully this gives you more confidence as you continue working.

jaqio
June 6, 2013, 1:00 AM
Good tip. And the parts are coming out good to. I tell you, Future Floor Wax has got to be like the best non hobby specific item modelers have. I use it one every build I paint in someway. It's just so versatile.

thwalker13
June 6, 2013, 7:42 AM
Jaqio is right on that. Future is one of the best things I've purchased for my models. And everything is looking good man. That red is looking really great. Can't wait to see more.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 10:40 AM
Thanks Guys! Dlinker, yeah, I hope, haha.

Yes, Future is wonderful. It just glided onto the parts like it was water, and the consistency seems just right to use in an airbrush. It also has the added bonus of being able to tighten joints really well.

I will put a color coat onto the butt thruster today, and start cleaning up the black on the legs.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 12:50 PM
So, I've realized that the red dots on the arms are a little bumpy with brush strokes and excess paint. I have searched for this, but it came up with next to nothing. Can I lightly wet sand the painted area to smooth it out? Or am I just better off leaving it?

thwalker13
June 6, 2013, 12:55 PM
I know some paint you can buff or wet sand. However I'm not fully sure that you can with the paint that you are using. Tamiya talks about sanding or buffering some of the paint that they offer. Dlinker might be able to tell you better.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 1:18 PM
You can sand it down, but you may have to respray/repaint. I've only worked with acrylics so lacquer (which I assume your sprays are) may be different, but I never got much luck sanding down bumps and other marks on the paint.

May be better off leaving it as is, but it's up to you.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 1:23 PM
Thanks! I'm talking about the Humbrol enamels, by the way.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 1:42 PM
I dropped the butte thruster on the ground will preparing to spray a color coat, and now there is a noticeable paint chip on the rim of the piece. Should I just continue with the color coats and hope that you can't notice the difference in color? The paint chip left a red mark, and the color I'm spraying on is a darker red. If I do re-prime the paint chip and wait ANOTHER day to spray the color coats, I run the risk of paint build-up and loss of detail. Should I go the fast route, spray the color coat and hope for the best? Or should I prime the part again? Nevermind, I'm just going to reprime it.

jaqio
June 6, 2013, 2:04 PM
Man, I wish i could help with this one. I ran into a similar paint problem myself on my 7 sword g model. I tried to lightly sand out some debris that mixed in with the paint and dried on the kit, but it just ended up taking the paint off! So long story short, i had to repaint the part. But i never wet sanded anything, so maybe if you pinpoint the problem areas like you where removing an nub and use real light pressure until it's gone, you could kind of drybrush the area that was sanded with paint and build up your layers until you get the hues to match up? But honestly, i'll listen to the other guys first, as they really have a good understanding of paints.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 3:01 PM
I would just spray the color coat and hope for the best, only because it has the least risk. If you have to prime again, that may cause extra headaches.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 3:26 PM
Thanks guys! I think I'll leave the bumps be. Dlinker, I primed the part again, just sprayed a coat onto it, just to get the color of the chip the same. No stripping was needed. The chip mark is still visible, faintly, but the color is uniformed.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 5:16 PM
You just learned something valuable then: if you're unsure about something, best thing to do is find it out for yourself.

Glad to see it worked well for you. If you don't mind, can you post a pic of that part? Just curious to see how the part looks.

Also, for a small paint snafu like that, I'm willing to be you're the only one who will notice it when they see the completed kit.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 5:29 PM
Thanks! I guess I should start trying things out on my own, huh? I'll try to post pictures of the part that highlights the chip.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 6:43 PM
Certain things, yes. You can still ask questions about them, but at the same time, don't feel like you can't prove the answers wrong with your own experience.

thwalker13
June 6, 2013, 7:52 PM
Dlinker's right on that one. We can tell you how to do something, or how something will turn out. But you won't know for yourself until you actually do it. Just like my little tests I'm doing with the spoons. I've watched and read stuff about the Metalizer paint. But, actually using it. A lot different.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 8:45 PM
Thank you guys. That's good advice that can be applied to everything in this hobby. Here is the re-primed thruster per Dlinker's request. Sorry for the delay. The battery ran out for my iPod. Had to charge it. Can you spot the chip? In the first picture, there is a blob of primer in the vent. I cleaned that up later with a bamboo skewer very carefully. Took less than ten seconds.

jaqio
June 6, 2013, 8:55 PM
I looked at it closely and can't spot the chipped paint.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 9:17 PM
Yeah, I can't see it either.

The blob, yes.

The chipped area, nope. Maybe if I saw that part up close in-person, under a bright light, I'd see it, haha.

thwalker13
June 6, 2013, 9:41 PM
Yeah I can't see the chip at all. The blob I spotted pretty quick. But no chipped paint.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 11:41 PM
It's hard to find the chip even in bright light and in person, but if you look very closely at the right corner in the second picture... you can make out the slightest tint of red. That's the chip. About the other mistake... the blob was eliminated swiftly and without mercy.

Bossguy
June 7, 2013, 7:07 PM
Spray painted the butt thruster red this morning. I hope this time the clear red works out.



Also, the Mr. Color Thinner arrived today. I can start peeling off the masks and cleaning up the over-spray now.

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 5:16 PM
Started peeling off the masks and cleaning up the over-spray. Not as much as I expected. I finished cleaning a piece. I'll try to get a picture of it up tonight. Word of warning: Mr. Color Thinner's fumes are very bad. Do this with a respirator or in a WELL ventilated area. I don't know if you guys know this, but lighter fluid helps get off the sticky adhesive left by tape. Just a quick tip.

Dlinker
June 8, 2013, 6:44 PM
That's a good tip for those who don't use Tamiya masking tape, which doesn't leave any adhesive behind when peeled off.

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 7:10 PM
Thanks Dlinker. I finished peeling off the mask and cleaning up the overspray. I made a very ugly boo-boo on one, which really aggravates me. I think I'll have to strip the paint. Forget about his project getting done by Wednesday. I'm very happy with the results otherwise. The parts that please me he most are the little grey vents that are side-by-side in the picture. Here are the pieces. Notice the mistake in the last picture. I still have to clear coat some of the vents, because I didn't want to risk it fogging up due to the thinner. Sorry for the upside--down pictures.

Dlinker
June 8, 2013, 9:19 PM
Oooh, those are looking real nice and yes, pic 4 is indeed a treat to gaze upon. Grey and red for two-tone thrusters works well.

Sucks about that little mistake in pic 5. I've been getting a few similar issues myself and it is irritating.

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 10:16 PM
Thank you so much for your encouragement Dlinker. These mistakes are starting to aggravate me. The mistake in picture #5 looks a lot worse in person. I stripped that part, and will mask it sometime tonight or tomorrow. Another tip, don't let Mr. Color Thinner come in contact with cuts or open wounds. I forgot to wear gloves while using the thinner, and had a paper cut on my finger. Burned like crazy for ten minutes. Again, sorry for the terrible pictures.

thwalker13
June 8, 2013, 11:14 PM
These parts are looking great man. Keep up the good work. And I hear about the mistakes. We've all had them. Just gotta learn to roll with the punches.

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 11:48 PM
Thanks Thwalker.

Dlinker
June 8, 2013, 11:55 PM
Yeah, any solvent will make cuts burn like crazy. Hopefully that lacquer thinner didn't do any extra damage to your cut.

Reminds me of a time when I was cleaning up Tamiya acrylic from my hands after a messy paint session. Used 91% ISO Alcohol to get it out and my hands stung a good deal. I didn't notice all the little cuts I had incurred earlier and at that moment, a rude awakening...

Bossguy
June 9, 2013, 12:11 AM
Oooo, ouch. Does anybody find it weird that Tamiya clear paints smell like toxic apples?

Bossguy
June 9, 2013, 11:46 AM
I re-primed the thruster. Surprisingly cold today.

jaqio
June 9, 2013, 12:55 PM
What matters is that your happy with your work. And this is indeed some good looking progress.

Bossguy
June 9, 2013, 5:29 PM
Thanks Jaqio. I'll spray red on the part tomorrow.

thwalker13
June 9, 2013, 5:50 PM
I'm really looking forward to seeing this kit all put together. I'm sure you are as well Boss.

Bossguy
June 9, 2013, 6:44 PM
Thanks Thwalker! And yes, I'm very excited and anxious to get this kit together. It's been two weeks since it arrived in the mail. Honestly, this is turning out a lot better than I expected. I assumed this would fail like every other painting project I attempted, but this is a lot more fun than I expected. I will do a recap of this whole project when this build is finally finished.

Dlinker
June 9, 2013, 9:14 PM
That's the best kind of surprise, good sir :)

I'm also eager to see how it will look once you put it all together. Are you flat-coating the parts individually?

Bossguy
June 9, 2013, 9:20 PM
Yes it is, Dlinker, yes it is. I might flat coat the parts, but I'm actually liking how it looks glossy. Plus, if I flat coat the parts I'll have to mask the parts over again, so as not to coat the unpainted parts. If I do flat coat the unpainted parts, then I'll have to flat coat the entire model, and then I"ll have to buy more topcoat. If I choose to flat coat the painted parts it makes things a lot more complicated. I have to get this project done by next Thursday, since I'm leaving for Arizona on Friday. If i had more time i would probably flat coat it, but since i only have five days, I think I'm going to stick with Future. For my next project, I might try my hand at the RG Freedom Gundam. I don't think I'll paint it, but I will try to apply all of the decals and panel lines. We'll see.

Dlinker
June 9, 2013, 11:56 PM
Stick with what looks best for you, then. Nothing wrong with leaving a kit without a flat coat and it does make the process so much easier.

thwalker13
June 10, 2013, 7:46 AM
I don't top coat every kit that I build. Very few get the treatment. Out of box builds normally don't see a top coat. Mostly the more in depth painted builds see it.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 10:47 AM
Thanks for the reassurance guys. The forecast says it'll rain today, so I'm going to spray the part soon.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 12:59 PM
Started to clear coat all of the parts. The Future seems more of a semi-gloss when dry. I put extra coats on some parts after I accidentally made a small chip on a vent. I fixed it up with some clear red. This is the final stretch.

Dlinker
June 10, 2013, 1:09 PM
Future needs several coats before it becomes glossy. For me, I had to brush on three coats, with a day in between each coat.

jaqio
June 10, 2013, 1:21 PM
It's great reading that the project is turning out well for you bossguy. And Future does need about 3 coats when handbrushing, and about the same with light coats for airbrushing.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 4:38 PM
Thanks for the tip! BE careful with this stuff, because if you put it on too thick it will eat your paint. I had it happen in several places on a thruster. After it dries I"ll have to fix it up with some clear red.

jaqio
June 10, 2013, 5:02 PM
Man those thrusters would be giving me the fits by now. I trashed kits for less when i first started.
Still, its cool that your being persistent regardless of the problems your encountering with the kit.

Dlinker
June 10, 2013, 5:05 PM
Whoa, really? Hmmm, that's interesting. I've seen it look like it was softening up the acrylic underneath, but I think it was normal because it looked fine the next day. Never encountered it actually damaging the paint underneath.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 5:29 PM
Yeah, Jaqio, it is really annoying, but I think of this as a learning experience. The more mistakes I make, the more I know in the future! Yes, be careful with this stuff. If you're airbrushing you should be fine, but don't put thick coats on it.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 5:35 PM
Update on the Future: The paint seems to have settled down, and looks alright. It doesn't eat away at the paint, but instead makes it almost liquid again. When it drys, the paint becomes normal again.

jaqio
June 10, 2013, 6:15 PM
Yeah, Jaqio, it is really annoying, but I think of this as a learning experience. The more mistakes I make, the more I know in the future! Yes, be careful with this stuff. If you're airbrushing you should be fine, but don't put thick coats on it.

So very right Bossguy! If I took that attitude when I first got into gunpla, I would have an MG Epyon to display today..

Dlinker
June 10, 2013, 6:34 PM
Aha, I thought so. That may be standard behavior for all clear coats applied in a heavy layer. Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear, which is best applied via AB, does the exact same thing if you spray a heavy layer.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 6:38 PM
Thanks Jaqio. That's an excellent tip Dlinker. I'll make sure not to have too much on my brush next time.

I built the head for kicks, and to ease my lust to build the model. All it really did was make me want to build it more. It's like taking a nibble when you're starving. All it does is make you more hungry. One of the V-fins won't go in all the way, creating a small gap. The V-fins a level and pointing in the same direction, so it must be a QC issue. I tried immensely hard to get that piece in all the way. I stopped once I started seeing stress marks on the piece. A hairdryer took care of them. It's driving me crazy.

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 9:47 PM
Started brushing on the clear red on the vent/thruster. I top coated the parts that were sprayed with the Tamiya Dull Red for the fourth time. I don't want to accidentally chip the paint while posing. Never hurts to be safe! The enamel paint has surprised me in terms of scratch resistance, so I only put two coats of Future on them. All I have to do now is wait until tomorrow, then I can start top-coating the butt thruster, and maybe the failed vent thruster. Play it by ear. I forgot to post this earlier, but I found the best way to paint the butt thruster. (I'm sorry if the name that I gave it makes you uncomfortable, I named it this because it was the easiest to help distinguish the piece from the other thrusters.) Instead of brushing side-to-side, you start from the middle vent and brush outward towards the outer rim of the piece. This creates a brushstroke-free type of finish.

Dlinker
June 11, 2013, 1:11 AM
Ouch, yeah, those kinds of issues with parts not fitting regardless of how much you follow the instructions suck big time. It gets worse when you paint small parts and it turns out the tolerance for where there supposed to go is so tight that the paint has to get scratched horribly before it can go in. Just experienced it now with the Dynames. Stupid joints....If you're able to, always sand the parts that rub against joints. Always.

Regarding the thrusters, that is indeed a good way to paint them if handbrushing. Gives it a bit of texture too, making it look a tad more realistic.

thwalker13
June 11, 2013, 8:20 AM
Sounds like this build is coming together fairly well Boss. Did you try sanding a bit on the V-Fin to get it to fit more smoothly?

Bossguy
June 11, 2013, 11:03 AM
Thank guys! About the V-fins, I did not paint them. They are straight bare plastic with the nubs shaved down flat on both. I stuck both V-fins in there, and the right one went into the head with a little force, but after that, no problem. The other one on the other hand, would not cooperate. I had the idea of sanding it after trying to get it in, but the fin won't come out. I would be fine with this if both showed a small gap, because then they would be symmetrical. I guess it gives it personality, right?

Dlinker, ouch. Thanks for the tip. Hope the Dynames works out. It seems to be giving you endless trouble.

Thanks Thwalker, it is coming along much smoother than I expected.

I'll probably topcoat the butt thruster and clean up the overspray on the vent thruster today. I might start building today, because the only thing holding me back now are two pieces. I am so happy that this project is almost done.

Dlinker
June 11, 2013, 1:07 PM
Are you going to be moving it around often after you build it? By that I mean changing poses and what-not.

Bossguy
June 11, 2013, 2:14 PM
Yes, I will move it around and pose it. I won't "play" with it, but I will be moving it around. Since most of the paint is on this inside of the thrusters, I won't be able to touch the paint as easily, so it will be harder to scratch. I panel washed the vents on the red shoulder thruster (are those called binders?) and the butt thruster. I noticed that despite with 3-4 coats of Future, and the paint thinned down considerably, the pigment wouldn't flow nicely. Something to watch out for in the future (pun not intended). I also cleaned up the over-spray on the piece that I messed up earlier. No incidents to speak of. Will coat it with Future tomorrow, and that will mark the end of the painting process.

Dlinker
June 11, 2013, 3:02 PM
What kind of paint are you using for the wash? Gloss or flat? I find that gloss enamels flow much better than flat enamels.

Now that you're done with painting, I guess it's just the waiting time for some pictures, haha.

Bossguy
June 11, 2013, 3:07 PM
I'm using gloss enamel. Strange, isn't it? Do you want pictures? I'll try to post them tonight if you want. And BTW, do you have a WiP thread? I would love to see exactly what you're working on.

Dlinker
June 11, 2013, 5:09 PM
Hmmm, that is strange. Yeah, some pics will be nice. Just want a visual to see what's happening. I've seen it before when a wash takes a few extra dips before it goes through the lines and for me, it's due to two reasons:

1.) Wash isn't thinned enough
2.) The gloss coat came out grainy so the paint is having difficulty flowing

Whenever that happens, I usually just end up brushing the wash into the lines.

And no, I don't have a WIP thread yet, but I'm thinking of starting one with the next build now that the Dynames is nearly done. I feel like I got my methods down right and that certainty is making me worried so perhaps now is a good time to get them poked full of holes, haha.

Bossguy
June 11, 2013, 5:31 PM
Awesome! Can't wait to see it! I just brushed the wash into the panel lines before, and they look all right. I thinned the paint considerably, and the pigment did not look grainy. I tested first by dabbing paint on the sides of the cup I was using to mix the paint. It slid right down without a problem. I'll try to get pictures up soon.

Bossguy
June 11, 2013, 11:04 PM
Sorry, I can't post pictures tonight. I'll definitely post pictures tomorrow though. I finished clear coating the parts. tomorrow will be the final step: building.

thwalker13
June 12, 2013, 7:25 AM
Awesome man. I bet you're super excited.

Bossguy
June 12, 2013, 10:21 AM
Jittery. Thanks for the support over these two weeks! Really means a lot to me.

thwalker13
June 12, 2013, 12:01 PM
That is what all of us on this forum are for man.

Bossguy
June 12, 2013, 5:23 PM
After two weeks and over 30 hours of work, I have finished this project. First off, a sincere thanks to those who have followed and supported me over the course of this project. Specifically Jaqio, Thalker13, and Dlinker. Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I couldn't have done it without you guys. I started this project because I thought it would be a good entry into painting kits, and coming out of this project I feel like a modeler veteran (though still a rookie). For those who have not been following his thread, I used Tamiya Color Ull Red spray and brushed on 2-3 coats of Tamiya Clear Red for the inside of the vents and other red parts. I had some mishaps along the way, and I am grateful for them. They have taught me what I am capable of, and some things to look out for in the future, should mistakes like those happen again. Some things did not go or turn out the way I wanted them too, specifically the handpainted thrusters and red dots on the arms. I also wish I spent more time on this 5340kit, allowing he paint to cure more before clear coating and whatnot, but time wasn't a luxury I had. This kit makes me want to get another one to go along with it, since there were two in the manga, but I would use the stickers instead. I count this as my first "real kit" and therefore the completed Byarlant Custom will have a special place in my collection, making it a V.I.K. (Very Important Kit). There are some pics here, I will post completed pics later. Would I do this project again? No. There is way too much masking IMO. This was a good start to the painting side of his hobby though, and I am grateful for it because of that.

Dlinker
June 12, 2013, 6:55 PM
Congratulations on your first completed and painted kit! Now go create your thread in the Ego Zone sub-forum and show it off, haha.

I think you did many things correctly. Just need to refine them to fit your style, which I'm sure you'll do next time.

Also, I think you'll find that only painting certain areas and leaving others as is is more difficult than painting the whole thing.

jaqio
June 12, 2013, 7:05 PM
Your more than welcome Bossguy! And you have been inspiring me greatly with how persistent and patient you are with your hobby.

I remember moving towards painting my kits and the many mistakes I made doing so. I didn't even bother learning from the mistakes I was making at the time either.
But reading over the progression of this kit, I see how you allowed yourself to learn from the problems encountered and tried a variety of methods to correct them instead of tossing it to the side. Props to you man!

Now as for the kit itself. This is going to be awesome indeed! The first picture in particular had me staring. Those color contrasts are really well done,it draws you to really look at it! Count me in for the unveiling.

thwalker13
June 12, 2013, 11:01 PM
You're very welcome Bossguy. Always more than will to help out. I can't wait to see your 1st completed kit in the Ego Zone.

Bossguy
June 12, 2013, 11:33 PM
Thanks guys! I had a very disappointing Tae Kwon Do class today, and I'm still adjusting. The Byarlant Custom Really does have a problem standing up. His knees are rather loose for the kit, and they usually give way in ground poses. Since I'm leaving for Arizona in two days, this thread and I will go dormant for around two months. I may post sometime in between those two months, but it will be brief. Here is the finished kit:http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/25105-Bossguy-s-Finished-Kits-and-Projects?p=83138#post83138
I'm really sorry about the pictures. They really don't do it justice.

Bossguy
September 28, 2013, 11:58 PM
Wow, this thread is dusty. Anyways, do you think hand-brushing all of the yellow parts with Humbrol enamel is the way to go with the X1? I'm going to paint EVERY part that's supposed to be yellow, even the pieces that are already molded in that color.

Dlinker
September 29, 2013, 1:59 AM
You should look at my thread. I haven't posted anything there in weeks, haha.

Why enamel and not acrylic? Because you already have the paints? You should be fine handpainting it as long as it's thinned to make it easier to apply and you give it a few days to cure. There's nothing substantially different between using acrylics or enamels for handpainting aside from ease coverage and a more challenging clean-up. Try not to apply it thick or else you'll have problems inserting the parts.

Bossguy
September 29, 2013, 10:35 AM
Thanks. I chose Humbrol enamels because I feel more comfortable with them, and the amount of durability with them. I actually only have clear Tamiya paints, and that's all I have for acrylic.

Dlinker
September 29, 2013, 12:22 PM
Are you going to be using their brand of thinner or using mineral spirits instead? Can't really say which one is better, although mineral spirits is known to cause damage to ABS plastic. Might be better going with their brand.

Bossguy
September 29, 2013, 3:11 PM
Just lighter fluid, though in my experience hand-painting I usually don't need to thin it.

Dlinker
September 29, 2013, 7:52 PM
For large areas, it may be best to thin it. And lighter fluid should work just fine. Never know until you try, haha.

Bossguy
September 29, 2013, 8:47 PM
Thanks. You never know, haha.


*edit*

I checked in with my hobby store to see if they had any Tamiya Enamels, and nope, they do not. So much for the gunmetal.

Dlinker
September 30, 2013, 1:09 AM
Does your store have Model Masters enamels? Or Humbrol only?

Bossguy
September 30, 2013, 10:46 AM
They have Model Masters, Testors Spray, Tamiya Spray, Tamiya Acrylic Minis, the full range of Humbrol Enamels, acrylics, and more enamels. Some Vallejo and Citadel stuff, and I once saw Mr. Hobby Topcoat, but they say they don't carry it. They have a lot of paint. I probably missed some, but you get the idea. I already put in my order for all the paint I needed for the Crossbone. This should be the last purchase I make for the rest of this and the next month. Hopefully it will, haha.

Dlinker
September 30, 2013, 1:03 PM
Unless you go crazy with the paints, they should last you a while :)

I guess your hobby store is similar to mine. They have the whole line-up of Model Masters enamels, Tamiya acrylics, and Alclad, but nothing else. Not that I'm complaining; I'll take what I can get and Sprue Brothers fills in the rest, haha.

Wiz33
September 30, 2013, 1:24 PM
You can never have too much paints ;-P

Bossguy
September 30, 2013, 3:13 PM
Very true, haha. Unfortunately, D&J doesn't stock Alclad paints.

Wiz33
September 30, 2013, 7:19 PM
No they don't except for a few of the metallics. I got mine from Megahobby.

outamyhead
October 1, 2013, 2:49 PM
Very true, haha. Unfortunately, D&J doesn't stock Alclad paints.

I noticed they don't have anything of Alclad besides the gloss, and some other variant of top coat, I was looking for Semi gloss, or matt, but they had neither.

Bossguy
October 1, 2013, 3:06 PM
Yeah, it's unfortunate.

Wiz33
October 1, 2013, 6:14 PM
I noticed they don't have anything of Alclad besides the gloss, and some other variant of top coat, I was looking for Semi gloss, or matt, but they had neither.

That's because I bought their last bottle of matte clear coat months ago ;-P

Bossguy
October 8, 2013, 2:16 PM
Hi guys. You know the MG Crossbone that I'm doing for the contest? I'm thinking of cutting my losses here and stripping all of the the parts, and taking it on another day. I took on too much with this build, and I don't think I did my favorite Gundam design justice. My family won't be happy with me giving up on something. The Zambuster looks great. The nubs look great. The yellow-orange? Not so much. What do you guys think?

Dlinker
October 8, 2013, 3:10 PM
Hmmm, I say go ahead and strip the parts. It's not worth keeping things as is when you know you can do a better job next time.

Bossguy
October 8, 2013, 3:35 PM
Thanks. Think of it as a strategic retreat instead of a surrender.

thwalker13
October 8, 2013, 4:05 PM
If you're not happy with how the kit looks, then you won't be happy with it when it's finished. I say go ahead and strip it down and tackle it again in the future.

Bossguy
October 8, 2013, 4:39 PM
Thanks Thwalker.

thwalker13
October 9, 2013, 7:50 AM
Not a problem sir. It being one of your favorite designs, I'm sure you naturally want to do it justice and make it look as good as you can. When I was little, I did a 1/144 scale Epyon. It turned out like crap cause back then I really didn't know what I was doing. And I could barely look at the thing because of it. Today, I understand that back then, I had no experience, and I did my best. But I still don't like how it looks.

Long story short, if you're not happy with the way a kit is turning out while building it, you certainly aren't going to like it when it's finished.

So does that mean you'll be falling back on the Red Frame for you contest entry?

Bossguy
October 9, 2013, 12:54 PM
Yeah, I'll be back to my Red Frame, though I'll probably get at least one other kit this year, which I'll probably do for the contest. I broke the chest, V-fin, and beam sabers while stripping the parts. I think the enamel paint is eating away at the plastic, because was being very careful with them. I hope GK Parts resumes their New Order system, because I have a lot of parts to order. I'm glad that it's over, though. That build gave me nothing but headaches.

Dlinker
October 9, 2013, 1:41 PM
Sucks that your bad experience had to be with the Crossbone, but at least now you learned something new. What were you using to strip the paint anyway?

Bossguy
October 9, 2013, 2:54 PM
Yeah, but at least it teaches me that I can't always have success. I was using lighter fluid to strip the parts. It took me around two hours to strip the parts. Is it okay if I still have some paint that I can't get off? Will it affect the priming process in the future?


Here is the Zambuster, the Buster Gun (though it doesn't look very "buster-y"), and the Beam Zamber. I couldn't get myself to strip these, or the eyes. It's a shame that the Gundam itself was a mess, while the weapons ran smoothly. I should have used Vallejo paint for everything. I owe you a cookie, Dlinker. That Vallejo paint you recommended is absolutely fantastic.

Dlinker
October 9, 2013, 5:04 PM
Aha, that's probably what caused the parts to break. Lighter fluid is good in light applications, but anything more and the plastic will be negatively affected. Might be best to use denatured alcohol to strip paint next time. I haven't heard of that doing any damage to Bandai plastic. Takes a while, though, and that's with a full immersion.

Regarding the paint and priming, yeah, any left over paint will show up slightly raised when you apply primer. It won't affect the primer, since that sticks to mostly anything, but it won't look as good. At least your weapons are all good. Better something than nothing, haha.

Told you Vallejo is great. To quote 4chan's modelers, it's nearly god tier stuff. I'll take a white chocolate cookie :)

Bossguy
October 9, 2013, 6:10 PM
Thanks for the tip. Should I just order all of the parts that I painted? I painted about $16 worth of parts, and I coated them pretty heavily with lighter fluid. I'm just afraid they'll all break on me, since some of them are thin, and the leftover paint is bothering me.

Dlinker
October 9, 2013, 6:53 PM
If you can afford it, I say go for it. Better safe than sorry, and if those parts don't end up broken, you can just use them for future paint tests.

Bossguy
October 9, 2013, 8:29 PM
Excellent. Thanks for your input.

V0LTES-V01
October 11, 2013, 10:59 AM
Yeah, but at least it teaches me that I can't always have success.
Giving up is not an option Boss! 8-) You just have to keep on trying!

Bossguy
October 11, 2013, 9:51 PM
^ Sorry, Voltes. :( I already packed this one up.



I calculated the cost of the parts. Including shipping, the parts will cost me an insane total of $35. Should I just buy a new Crossbone for the parts? It'll come with an extra Zambuster, but will also have the downside of being an incomplete kit, which will drive me mad. It is a much better deal, though.

Dlinker
October 12, 2013, 12:49 AM
Yeah, man, go for it. If an entire kit costs more than the spare parts, go with the cost-effective option. Sure, you'll get an incomplete kit, but look at it as getting spare parts for mods/kitbashes/testing techniques on.

Dlinker
November 5, 2013, 1:39 AM
I would paint the eyes, yes. It's one of the more interesting aspects of building an MG kit since you usually get a clear piece for it. However, you may have to put all of the paint in front of the eyes unless there's enough space behind them. I did it for the Turn A because the head was otherwise hollow behind the eyes.

Not that much different doing it all in front. Get some silver (best is actually MM Enamel Chrome Silver), then paint over that with a clear Tamiya paint or any shiny clear acrylic. Then Future on top.

Dlinker
November 5, 2013, 1:17 PM
Hmmm, the head camera is supposed to have its green part as a trim, no? If I were the one painting it, I would have no choice but to find the smallest paintbrush available and use that to paint the inner black and outer green. Are you sticking with the original colors on it or do you want a different color? If sticking with the original, my choice for the green is the Metallic Green gundam marker.

thwalker13
November 5, 2013, 2:34 PM
Why don't you do a reverse wash? That's what I do with all the eyes on my kits now. As for the AGE symbol on the head, I have the same issue with my AGE-2. I'm going to try and mask mine on the sides to protect the head and do paint it very carefully by hand.

Bossguy
November 15, 2013, 3:46 PM
Remember that KO Gerbera Tetra kit that I got from Taiwan that I was going to use for my first airbrushed kit? Well, I cracked open the box today to see what was inside, and I realized that the kit was missing its polycaps. That plate is kind of important if you want to move, or keep your kit together. I guess that kit will just become spare parts now. I now have to use the MG Freedom. I'm not too thrilled with this kit to be honest. I'll probably change the color scheme.

Dlinker
November 15, 2013, 4:12 PM
Wow, that sucks. Out of all of the pieces to be missing, it had to be the darn polycaps. Kinda makes you wish Bandai sold a pack of generic polycaps, haha.

Good luck on that Freedom. I think a custom color scheme would look pretty nice.

Bossguy
November 15, 2013, 5:46 PM
Thanks. I started cutting out the head, and then I realized that there wasn't a PC plate in the box. At least I got a nice beam rifle out of it, haha. This is going to be a very casual and slow build. I have to decide on what the layout for the colors is going to be like. It'll probably take me a week to cut out the parts. Now that the contest is over, I just want to relax, haha.

thwalker13
November 16, 2013, 12:18 AM
Sweet on the Freedom. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

And sorry to hear about the missing polycaps. Is there any way that you can contact where you got it from or even the manufacturer about getting a replacement?

Bossguy
November 16, 2013, 12:08 PM
Thanks. I doubt I can do that, seeing as they're a third party company. I don't think they even have an official website.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 12:16 AM
This doesn't even compare to the awesome WiP posts that are going around now. I finished de-nubbing the torso, head, and arms. It's going decently well so far, besides some sanding mishaps along the arms. I noticed that there was a ton of mold flash around the forearm, and that forced me to sand it down. Since the part was rounded, I didn't exactly sand it perfectly. I messed up on one of the shoulder parts, thanks to my clumsy hands and side-cutter. You can see it in the second pic. At least it isn't too noticeable. Gives it some character.

Zeta-G
November 18, 2013, 12:31 AM
I now have to use the MG Freedom. I'm not too thrilled with this kit to be honest. I'll probably change the color scheme.

To be fair to Lord Beam Spamalot, the MG Freedom is fairly solid, given its age. That said, it could use a Ver. RM/2.0. Those 1.0 hands are horrible.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 12:52 AM
I know that, I just wasn't fond of its aesthetics, with its rather blocky shoulders. The design is really growing on me though, haha.

Dlinker
November 18, 2013, 1:13 AM
I bet you no one will notice that little snafu with the shoulder piece unless they look really hard for it. Looks like you'll get the thing all de-nubbed in day or two, haha.

It makes me want to rush through my de-nubbing of the GM Sniper II so I can finally take pics of it and the two other kits I'm working on.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 1:43 AM
I'll probably be done de-nubbing it by the end of this week if I keep working at this pace, haha. After that, I just need to wait to get an airbrush. Do you think I should get one of the cheaper, Master ones? I have the money to get a nicer, more expensive one such as the Badger Patriot.

Dlinker
November 18, 2013, 2:51 AM
Hmmm, I think you should go with the Patriot simply because it will come with a warranty and is simpler in construction while being better built. Yeah, it's a bit more expensive, but it will remove many variables that may frustrate you as you're learning.

Get a cheaper Master AB later on for more rugged work like metallics and priming.

thwalker13
November 18, 2013, 8:51 AM
I agree with Dlinker. I took my Patriot apart for the 1st time and was rather relieved to see that it doesn't consist of a million tiny parts. So it's not a daunting task to clean it.

V0LTES-V01
November 18, 2013, 10:47 AM
That's a neat organizer you got there Boss. Makes me want to use my Fishing Tackle for the same purpose LOL. Where did you get it?

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 11:41 AM
Thanks, guys. I'll go with the Patriot. Is it okay if I use it to prime and do colors and clear coats with it?

@Voltes: I saw it at Micheals. It was 7$, so I got it. A very handy little box.

Dlinker
November 18, 2013, 12:00 PM
You won't be disappointed with the Patriot. Remember that its default needle is .75mm which is pretty big so if you're planning on learning to work on details with the AB, you might need to spring for a .5mm needle or an AB meant for detail work (.35mm needle and below).

And yep, you can prime, spray colors, and spray clear coats with it :) Just make sure to give the thing a good cleaning after each use and when you switch between the three materials.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 12:13 PM
Thanks, man! My iPad sold, so it's just a matter of time before I get it!

*edit*

What compressor do you have/recommend? I was looking at the TC-20T because it was a cheaper compressor with a tank on top, but I hear that it has a some QC issues. Is that one okay?

jayhat100
November 18, 2013, 1:24 PM
You might to look at Chicago airbrush online they have really good deals on airbrushes, I got my badger krome for cheaper than I bought my patriot for with free shipping

Dlinker
November 18, 2013, 2:04 PM
I can't make a good recommendation on compressors since I haven't had to buy one yet. The one I'm using now is big and noisy and meant for automotive air tools, haha.

You can try the TC-20T since Wiz33 seems to have a good experience with it. You can also visit Harbor Freight and see if they have the one thwalker13 is using, which I'm considering myself when I move out next year.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 2:22 PM
Thanks guys! I found the compressor in the "Latest Acquisitions" thread, but I still don't know what it's called, haha. That may be a better alternative than the TC-20T. And man, Chicago Airbrush has some excellent deals.

jayhat100
November 18, 2013, 2:41 PM
I have been using a harbor freight and works good

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 6:37 PM
I think I'll get one from Harbor Freight. Thanks guys. Living with my parents is hampering things, though. I'll either have to put it in the garage, or in my room. Very inconvenient. Should I paint in the garage?

Dlinker
November 18, 2013, 8:10 PM
Garage should work just fine and it will allow you to spray the more toxic stuff without you having to waste time moving from place to place. Just be careful during cold days, but that's a non-issue if you have a heated garage, haha.

FYI, I do all of my paint work in the garage and will probably do so next year too after moving into my own place. I'd prefer not having any chance of harmful particulates being in places I relax in, even if the chance is next to zero.

Bossguy
November 18, 2013, 9:54 PM
Thanks Dlinker. I'm paranoid about that kind of stuff too. Our garage is not heated, unfortunately, but it is insulated, so temperature shouldn't be too much of a problem. Time to order supplies.

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 1:40 AM
Don't forget some kind of ventilation system so you can push the fumes and particles away from you and out of the garage. There are some good cheap spray booths on Amazon that have built-in vents and ducts. I think Wiz33 mentioned it in one of his posts in the AB thread (another recommendation that may come in handy).

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 1:58 AM
Oh, I thought that the fumes would just diffuse. Unfortunately, I am airbrushing in the middle of the garage, with no windows in sight for at least fifteen feet. Have you ever experienced temperature problems in your garage?

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 3:41 AM
They will diffuse, but it takes time. The more airflow you got going, the quicker the diffusion so if you can somehow find a way to push air out of the garage, then you're golden. See about getting a respirator too so you won't have to worry about airing out the garage as much.

I haven't experienced temperature problems yet in my garage, but then again, I only use the AB between the middle of March up to the end of October. During those months, it's problem-free.

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 11:11 AM
Thanks. I already have a respirator, and have been using it since I started spray-painting. Is your garage insulated?

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 11:23 AM
Nope and that's why it gets really cold in the winter months. What a treat it would be to have an insulated garage. I just need to park a recently-driven car inside and it will warm up to a comfy temperature, haha.

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 11:25 AM
Haha, that's true. I am blessed with an insulated garage, so I don't need to worry about temperature. Thanks, man. You helped me a ton.

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 1:15 PM
I have a couple more questions for you guys. Should I use water based paint for the inner frame such as Vallejo? What compressor did you get from Harbor Freight Thwalker? What was the connection from the hose to the airbrush? 1/8? Thanks guys.

thwalker13
November 19, 2013, 1:28 PM
I got the compressor in the link below. I managed to get it while it was on sale. I had to get a Badger air hose to attach to the Airbrush then to the hose that comes with the compressor. I can't remember if I had to use an adapter, I'll look when I get home from work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-6-hp-40-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-93657.html

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 2:15 PM
Honestly, I think going lacquer for the inner frame is the better option simply because it dries so thin to the point where it's very difficult to scratch even without any sort of protective coat, which is great since the inner frame is what encounters the most friction. You can then use acrylics for detailing.

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 4:44 PM
Thank you guys for the help. I do not have lacquers at my disposal as of now, so Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Lacquer thinner will have to do. How many bottles of paint do you usually go through for the main color? I'll get the Badger air hose and quick release adapter. I also picked this up.

thwalker13
November 19, 2013, 5:52 PM
That looks to be about the same little guy I have. She works well and is pretty quiet to.

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 6:01 PM
In regards to the question about the bottles, I usually use 5ml of paint for a basecoat color. That's paint only, not with thinner, so when thinned, the paint mixture ends up being around 11ml. If you're using up an entire bottle for a single color on a single kit, you're doing something wrong, haha.

Bossguy
November 19, 2013, 6:37 PM
Thanks, guys. @Thwalker: It's the same one. I've heard only great things about it, and the price is simply unbeatable.

Thanks Dlinker. That'll help me out a ton.

Dlinker
November 19, 2013, 8:11 PM
Anytime, man. And do let us know how it goes for you. Learning to use the AB and working with the paint for the first time is always fun to read about, haha.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 1:06 AM
I will, for sure. There will be many mishaps along the way, but I will finish this kit.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 12:20 PM
Please forgive me for asking so many questions. I have something else to ask about. Will Tamiya Lacquer thinner hurt ABS? I've researched this, but found nothing, other than people saying it's "plastic safe." Also, how do you guys organize your parts when painting? Do you paint the inner frame first, separating the various limbs and then move onto the armor?

Dlinker
November 20, 2013, 12:25 PM
Oh come on, you've been here long enough to know that nobody minds when people ask a lot of questions :)

About the lacquer thinner, it may do some damage, but it really depends on how you apply it. Multiple thin coats with some drying time in between, there's a very low chance of damage if any. If you pool that paint on to the parts, then yeah, it might hurt. If you're feeling really paranoid, just spray a few thin coats of lacquer primer on the parts to add some protection (like Mr. Color Surfacer 1000). Your AB and its big needle will come in very handy for it.

Regarding organization, I usually assemble the inner frame completely, but keep it apart in sections on a separate set of skewers. Once I'm done painting that and it's curing, I move on to the armor and weapons that also on a separate set of skewers.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 12:37 PM
Thanks. Unfortunately, Mr. Color Surfacer is not in my price range. Is Vallejo Primer okay?

Dlinker
November 20, 2013, 12:49 PM
I find that Vallejo Primer is good only for the armor pieces since it dries kinda thick (when compared to lacquer primer). And since it's an acrylic, it may get eaten up or damaged by the thinner.

That kinda leaves you with the multiple coats method for now until you got money to spend on a bottle of Mr. Surfacer and and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.

thwalker13
November 20, 2013, 1:21 PM
So far in terms of frame, I paint most of the parts individually. However I will be trying out Dlinkers method with my RG Strike Freedom. As for armor parts, I have my styrofoam blocks labeled for the various sections. Waist, Right Leg, Left Leg, Right Arm, Left Arm, Chest, Backpack, Head, Weapons. And I organize everything that way.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 1:29 PM
Thanks guys. I will have to rethink how I do the inner frame.

*edit*

Can I completely ignore primer for the inner frame and just sand? If not, I think I might have to spend the extra money for Mr. Surfacer.

Dlinker
November 20, 2013, 2:11 PM
In terms of adhesion, sanding should work fine. However, in terms of protecting the plastic from any harm that lacquer thinner will do, it will not do anything.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 2:54 PM
Thanks, man. I think I'll have to buy Mr. Surfacer. I've heard that it's a synthetic lacquer. Doesn't that make ABS brittle?

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 3:56 PM
And update. I have finished cutting out all of the parts for the main components of the Gundam itself. I still have to do the glorious backpack wings, and the ridiculously large side skirts. I have also decided not to use the beam rifle and shield, so those will go In the parts bin. I have ordered Mr. Hobby Surfacer. I already have Mr. Color Thinner conveniently. Buying that has made my paint funds very low, so I'll have to be strategic when I got to the hobby store to buy paints, haha.

thwalker13
November 20, 2013, 4:26 PM
Sweet progress man. I can't wait to see what color scheme you've come up with.

Dlinker
November 20, 2013, 4:27 PM
Man, that pic has all sorts of things going on in it, haha.

And yeah, Mr. Color stuff is synthetic lacquer and that can cause damage, but if you spray it lightly and don't do heavy layers, there won't be any damage. That's because the paint will dry uber quick, leaving no time for the lacquer medium/thinner to hurt anything. Looking forward to your experience with the stuff.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 4:29 PM
Thanks, guys! I have figured out my color scheme, thanks to a coloring sheet and some good ol' colored pencils. I don't want to show it just yet, but I'll tell you this: it's going to be black.

thwalker13
November 20, 2013, 5:08 PM
Oh boy! I love seeing the Freedom in black. I don't know why, but black looks so damn good on the suit.

Dlinker
November 20, 2013, 6:38 PM
Sounds like a good plan. I think the Freedom could use some more black, haha.

Bossguy
November 20, 2013, 7:16 PM
Thanks, guys! You're going to see many black repaints from me.

Bossguy
November 21, 2013, 12:03 AM
Should I paint the base? I want it so that it doesn't detract from the suit itself. I could just flat coat it. If I do paint it, what color should it be?

V0LTES-V01
November 21, 2013, 12:28 AM
So why don't you want to include the rifle and shield on the project?

Bossguy
November 21, 2013, 12:57 AM
I'll never use them. I like the way the shield looks, but the beam rifle cover being only one piece really kills it for me. If you think I should use them, then by all means, tell me. I'm happy to take suggestions.

Dlinker
November 21, 2013, 2:13 AM
I say paint the base. As long as it's not an outrageous paint job, it will only serve to enhance.

So you're keeping your Freedom as melee-only? Not that it's bad. The darn suit already has four cannons on its body as is, haha. And I actually like how the Freedom looks when in melee than its uber successor.

thwalker13
November 21, 2013, 9:01 AM
I agree with Dlinker, the Freedom just looks badass when it's got duel beam sabers out. The scene in Destiny when the Freedom sheds the Savior to ribbons is one of my all time favorites.

Bossguy
November 21, 2013, 12:01 PM
Yeah. I'm going to leave the shield and beam rifle out. If there were two beam rifles like the Strike Freedom, I would paint them, but there is only one. I just don't want to do any masking, haha.

thwalker13
November 21, 2013, 12:23 PM
I don't blame you there. That was the nice part about the RG version. The blue trim was it's own piece. The RG Strike Freedom is the same way. I tried to paint my MG Strike Freedom's rifles and it turned into a big mess.

Bossguy
November 21, 2013, 12:26 PM
Yeah, my masking energy has been used up with my AGE-1, haha. I think I'm going to paint the base a darker grey. Will that distract from the black?

thwalker13
November 21, 2013, 12:28 PM
If anything it will offset it. If the Freedom is going to be a black/white scheme, then a grey base will offset both and not blend in with either.

Bossguy
November 21, 2013, 12:56 PM
There will be no white. I've been mulling over if I should make it a two-tone color scheme, but there will definitely be a darker grey. I could make the stand a lighter grey.