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GNzaku0023
November 7, 2010, 8:09 PM
When you paint your kits (if you do that is) how do you paint them?

For me, if I'm painting an entire kit, I start by cutting the pieces off of the runners, trimming and sanding them them, gluing together non moving/non polycap parts (this is to eliminate seamlines), and then spray painting them with the color of choice (several coats of course). After that's done I go through and paint the little details, add decals/stickers, and panel lining, then finish it up with a coat of clear sealant to help everything stay in tact.

For just little details, I simply paint them with acrylic or testors paints.

So how do you paint your kits.
(Asterisk, feel free to share with us your mastery of the painting arts)

Asterisk
November 8, 2010, 7:39 AM
You are simply not going to believe this.


I paint with a brush. By hand. No primer. No sealant. Games Workshop, Privateer Press and Testors paints, thinned to the consistency of somewhere between skim and 2% milk. No real tricks, gimmicks, fancy techniques. Just patience.

Zeta-G
November 8, 2010, 1:34 PM
You are simply not going to believe this.


I paint with a brush. By hand. No primer. No sealant. Games Workshop, Privateer Press and Testors paints, thinned to the consistency of somewhere between skim and 2% milk. No real tricks, gimmicks, fancy techniques. Just patience.
My shaky hands would ruin a kit doing that.
*tips hat to asterisk's painting skills*

Asterisk
November 8, 2010, 4:52 PM
It probably helps that I also paint pewter miniatures.

I took a long break from Gunpla when I discovered affordable, DECENT fantasy miniatures, and my painting vastly improved as a result.
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[attachment=0:wk5xb9lo]Picture047.jpg[/attachment:wk5xb9lo]

GNzaku0023
November 8, 2010, 8:51 PM
Asterisk, you will never cease to amaze me. I finished my Kapool, though, and I'll post pics later. Hopefully it'll look as good as your kits do.

Skittles
November 8, 2010, 9:49 PM
If I stay with the hobby, I'd like to get a little airbrush at some point. (I know how I can get bored with things - two years is a tiny commitment so far.) I just brush paint, mostly details, using a combination of Tamiya and Testors acrylics. Panel line using Gundam Markers...

I'm just generally doing this for fun, though, and if I start being too much of a perfectionist, it's not fun...



It probably helps that I also paint pewter miniatures.

I took a long break from Gunpla when I discovered affordable, DECENT fantasy miniatures, and my painting vastly improved as a result.


I have heard from many people who've gotten into gunpla from other modeling/gaming hobbies that gunpla are just a piece of cake in comparison.

Zeta-G
November 8, 2010, 10:23 PM
If I stay with the hobby, I'd like to get a little airbrush at some point. (I know how I can get bored with things - two years is a tiny commitment so far.) I just brush paint, mostly details, using a combination of Tamiya and Testors acrylics. Panel line using Gundam Markers...

I'm just generally doing this for fun, though, and if I start being too much of a perfectionist, it's not fun...



It probably helps that I also paint pewter miniatures.

I took a long break from Gunpla when I discovered affordable, DECENT fantasy miniatures, and my painting vastly improved as a result.


I have heard from many people who've gotten into gunpla from other modeling/gaming hobbies that gunpla are just a piece of cake in comparison.
I can't really comment about how difficult it is to paint different kinds of kits. I've yet to stumble across a major western model maker that can compare with Bandai's skills when it comes to designing the parts/assembly of the models themselves. When it comes to actually assembling the kits, Western modeling companies seem to go for glue required, which is more tedious, but not all that difficult. I used to get all sorts of aircraft model kits, but Master Grade Gunpla spoiled me with their high amount of detail; I can only imagine how much more detailed a PG would be in comparison.

GNzaku0023
November 8, 2010, 10:56 PM
I honestly find that when it comes to painting gunpla, no two kits are a like. It seems that you have to use a different painting method for each kit. For example, my GN zaku. I couldn't paint that in my normal methods. I had to disassemble the entire thing and paint every single part individually. As for the Kapool, I followed my method listed above. I like this about Gunpla, it keeps things interesting.

Asterisk
November 9, 2010, 8:02 AM
I have heard from many people who've gotten into gunpla from other modeling/gaming hobbies that gunpla are just a piece of cake in comparison.
Eh, if you're just doing standard detail and panel lining, sure. If you're doing full-on weathering, or custom color schemes? I don't quite think so.

GNzaku0023
November 9, 2010, 1:44 PM
I'd agree with that. I used to play Mech Warrior (miniatures) all the time and I painted those entirely, and even though they were small, they were a piece of cake in comparison to some of the gunpla kits I've painted.

SilverFrameAstray
November 9, 2010, 2:25 PM
That is of course until I got those. They were fun to screw around with but I think they're just sitting in a box about now.

GNzaku0023
November 9, 2010, 2:27 PM
Yeah, nowhere near as cool as Gunpla huh? But some of them were really cool looking.

SilverFrameAstray
November 9, 2010, 2:32 PM
True enough. I think it's just lack of motivation to spend the same money for much smaller pieces. Not only that, but I don't exactly want to actually play the game it was about.

I took the shield from Carbon Frame and gave it to Silver Frame. So now he's twin shielding with both beam sabers. Those 1/144 kits hold on to the beam sabers amazingly. Either that or it's the layer of chrome paint that's giving it some cushion room.

GNzaku0023
November 9, 2010, 2:34 PM
True true. I don't think you should've mixed the spray and normal paint together. I think it made it look a bit clumpy.

SilverFrameAstray
November 9, 2010, 2:41 PM
I didn't really. I only ever tried the White on the shield because we didn't have any flat white. It's all good though, because if anything these were trials for the 1/100's.

GNzaku0023
November 9, 2010, 11:47 PM
Yeah, you're going to need some new 1/100 Astrays, your red frame is pretty fubar'd man.

SilverFrameAstray
November 9, 2010, 11:50 PM
Yeah, you're going to need some new 1/100 Astrays, your red frame is pretty fubar'd man.

Uggu. He's all falling apart. I just straight up need a new one. I give up with him. I might not even fix him up anymore. It's like a Geo. You have it while it runs, then you can't keep up with maintaining it so you get something new.

GNzaku0023
November 10, 2010, 8:36 PM
Yeah, but you can always use it as a parts kit. I mean, custom Astray, Goro style lol.

SilverFrameAstray
November 11, 2010, 9:51 PM
I still just like it as it is. He keeps Buster company. I have quite a plan on how i'm gonna paint the 1/100. I'm going to try and make it as flawless as given possible.

Zeta-G
November 11, 2010, 9:58 PM
Just out of curiosity GNZ and SFA what does the last page or so have to do with painting techniques? :?:
I'm just trying to steer the discussion back on course.

SilverFrameAstray
November 11, 2010, 11:27 PM
I painted my 1/144 Astray Silver, making it the actual SFA. There were some problems that came about from how I painted him, and GNZ doesn't like it. I do however, and it doesn't bother me about how thick the paint is on him. I painted small bits of my Buster too. All of the gold on him was originally black. So both of my kits are painted and I was discussing how they were painted, therefore relevant.

Zeta-G
November 11, 2010, 11:49 PM
I painted my 1/144 Astray Silver, making it the actual SFA. There were some problems that came about from how I painted him, and GNZ doesn't like it. I do however, and it doesn't bother me about how thick the paint is on him. I painted small bits of my Buster too. All of the gold on him was originally black. So both of my kits are painted and I was discussing how they were painted, therefore relevant.
Carry on in that case.
Note: Pictures to demonstrate what you two were discussing (regarding the paint) would have helped.

SilverFrameAstray
November 12, 2010, 1:28 AM
I painted my 1/144 Astray Silver, making it the actual SFA. There were some problems that came about from how I painted him, and GNZ doesn't like it. I do however, and it doesn't bother me about how thick the paint is on him. I painted small bits of my Buster too. All of the gold on him was originally black. So both of my kits are painted and I was discussing how they were painted, therefore relevant.
Carry on in that case.
Note: Pictures to demonstrate what you two were discussing (regarding the paint) would have helped.

I will tomorrow. It's a bit past midnight on the east coast, so i'm going to go ahead an pass out. I'll try and get into the finer details of why the paint being thick is a problem, and how I screwed it up. Again, it doesn't bother me, it isn't like anything is loose or falling apart.

squeam
December 12, 2010, 1:26 PM
My paint style is a kind of "use whatever it takes". Water-based acrylics are nice for those hard to reach panel lines and can easily be cleaned up. The brush-tip style Gundam Markers (Sumiire Gray, etc.) are sooo easy to use for general panel lines. Nothing beats the amazing Metallic Green Gundam Marker for eyes. I actually use some Sharpies here and there (sorry GSAM) for coloring clear plastic and even nub mark covering (probably my most original solution here). I just got some Real Touch Markers and oh are they nice! They are very forgiving to work with and can add some great detail and color solutions to tight spots. Just getting into spray painting. I'm trying to get everything I possibly need, as far as spray paints, before I do an entire kit.

SilverFrameAstray
April 18, 2011, 12:11 AM
Just painted my Geara Zulu Angelo Sauper Custom. This is a horrid picture from my cellphone, but I am way too giddy to not show it off.

The trim is silver, but the collar and sleeves are black trim on a silver base. Kind of like inverted colors for it. The shield has a zeon wing design on it and the shield has black trim all around it.

I painted the verniers, pipes, and canisters a lighter grey, and they actually match the kit on the box perfectly o3o!

I also did the chain rounds that feed into the smart gun a kind of brassy gold color. The mono-eye is an aftermarket piece but it shows up green.

Zeta
April 18, 2011, 12:12 AM
Awesome!

Kamari13
April 18, 2011, 12:14 AM
very nice SFA

SilverFrameAstray
April 18, 2011, 12:18 AM
Thank you, thank you *bows like some concert pianist*

I'll try and update the picture with something that is better than 2.0 Mega Pixels. It's mad fuzzy. That and I'll clean up that shield a bit too. It's not as straight as I thought it was. Well the black is straight as an arrow, just not the zeon wings in silver.

Kamari13
April 18, 2011, 12:23 AM
more then welcome man and how was the build on that kit ?? I'm going to try and finish up my HGUC Unicorn set

SilverFrameAstray
April 18, 2011, 12:40 AM
Oh my G.O.D. it was amazing. The whole thing is very solid, and the articulation is pretty for how bulky it is. I just try not to handle it too roughly. Just when you have the smartgun in hand, he has a bit limited choice of poses.

I am quite a fan of the monoeye lever at the bottom of the head.

GNzaku0023
April 18, 2011, 8:27 PM
more then welcome man and how was the build on that kit ?? I'm going to try and finish up my HGUC Unicorn set

I'm trying to collect the entire HGUC Unicorn Series. It's a daunting task but it'll be awesome once I'm done!



Oh my G.O.D. it was amazing. The whole thing is very solid, and the articulation is pretty for how bulky it is. I just try not to handle it too roughly. Just when you have the smartgun in hand, he has a bit limited choice of poses.

I am quite a fan of the monoeye lever at the bottom of the head.

The unicorn kits have yet to disappoint. I'm excited to see the new ones coming out soon.
And you gotta love those monoeye levers.

SilverFrameAstray
April 28, 2011, 10:02 AM
About to go on a big painting group thing. ZP's painting his zaku I his custom colors, I'm doing my Zudah in my custom color, and RCS is painting her bearguy to be pandaguy.

I believe the only thing that is getting spray painted may be the pandaguy's white.

Everything else will be hand painted wonderesnous

Zeta
July 6, 2011, 12:52 AM
I thinking about going to my local hobby shop soon and I was wondering what brand of acrylic paints do you recommend (I'm thinking about getting MG Wing and painting the jewel and sensor clear green. And maybe top coat it as well). So, any suggestions?

GNzaku0023
July 6, 2011, 1:04 AM
Definitely Citadel paints. I use them all to frequently.

Zeta
July 6, 2011, 1:22 AM
Ok, thanks. what about the Tamiya paints?

GNzaku0023
July 6, 2011, 1:33 AM
I've never used tamiya. Too expensive to get for me.

Kenico
July 25, 2011, 9:20 AM
@ GNZ:not exactly if your looking in the right places thats where the patience comes in. my style of painting? well i do it one of two ways: one, i spray paint the darn thing with the color of my choice one part at a time, sanding first of course. or two and this comes to small delicate works for this, i do what the great demigod asterisk does paint by hand very very slowly. oh and heres a tip if you want to either paint a clear part or paint over an already painted clear part(in my case i painted the plasma blade of the anti ship sword that came with MG Force Impulse from clear pink to clear blue. it was for my MG Hi-Nu. you might say it was my first "Custom" build), use asterisks method and paint by hand but heres the difference(unless A uses this tecnique as well in which case my hats off to Asterisk) when ever i want to see if it was a sucess, i place a flashlight under the work to see if it worked both sides of course and then place the light over it to inspect it further. Bigger tip: when using this method, use LED flashlight. itll take some work but the results are worth it.

Thomas
October 8, 2011, 1:32 AM
Well, I want to get into painting, and I picked up a HGUC G.30th RX-78-2 to experiment with. I'm leaning towards using the Tamiya spray paints in order to do the job, and I was wondering three different things:

1. Is there an actual primer spray that I have to use, or do I have to use primer at all? Also, what qualifies as a top coat spray? Would it have to explicitly say "Top coat" on it, or would it be some sort of just clear spray?

2. AS, TS, or PS Tamiya sprays? It says on the Tamiya site to not to use PS sprays on plastic, for whatever reason, so I doubt I can use that. I'm assuming TS sprays are the way to go.

3. Does anybody know any places in Northern Michigan that do sell hobby paints like this? I know there's one in Traverse City I'm going to check out tomorrow.

tc012009
October 8, 2011, 9:41 AM
I tend to use Rustoleum and Humbrol spray paint on my models, and usually brush paint detail with acrylic paints (Tamiya and Citadel).

I got an airbrush earlier this year and really need start moving to that as my primary way of painting kits.

Squee
October 8, 2011, 3:46 PM
Cut parts, test fit to see where seams are. Fix parts so that seams will no longer be there. Prime. Airbrush. Mask Paint. Clearcoat. Decal. Clearcoat. Wash/weather. Clearcoat.

RX-78-2
October 11, 2011, 6:49 PM
Check out the hobbytownusa store locator they sell gundam models and paints!

Zeta
December 31, 2011, 8:06 PM
Hey, does anybody know to paint clear parts with acrylic paint? I'm about to paint with the clear jewel and sensor on my MG Wing Gundam and would like some tips and hints on how to paint. Stuff like how many coats, how to get an even coat, and how long to dry. Also, I'll be working in my garage and it is 66 degrees outside.

om3rta
January 1, 2012, 3:30 AM
I paint clear parts using an airbrush and Tamiya clear acrylic paints. You can coat to your liking. The more you coat, the more different the effect of 'clearness' you get. As far as how to get an even coat, it's just like airbrushing anything else. Tamiya paints take about an hour to dry and 24 hours to cure.

Zeta
January 1, 2012, 5:12 PM
O.K., thanks. Is using a brush an option if an airbrush is not present?

squeam
January 30, 2012, 5:03 PM
Just ordered a set of paints from Vallejo! I hope to get "serious" about painting once they get here, so prepare for questions!

Asterisk
January 30, 2012, 5:49 PM
You know where to find me, Squeam.

lupes
January 30, 2012, 6:02 PM
Hey, does anybody know to paint clear parts with acrylic paint? I'm about to paint with the clear jewel and sensor on my MG Wing Gundam and would like some tips and hints on how to paint. Stuff like how many coats, how to get an even coat, and how long to dry. Also, I'll be working in my garage and it is 66 degrees outside.

It sounds weird, but if you've an airbrush at your disposal you can use Future FLoor Polish with a little food color for this...and Future self-levels, so it's even easier that way!

Asterisk
January 30, 2012, 6:14 PM
Future Floor Polish with a little food color
Noted for future reference.

Gale
January 30, 2012, 7:00 PM
It sounds weird, but if you've an airbrush at your disposal you can use Future FLoor Polish with a little food color for this...and Future self-levels, so it's even easier that way!
Do you think this might work with hand brushing as well, kind of like clear paint?

GNzaku0023
January 30, 2012, 8:32 PM
Hey, does anybody know to paint clear parts with acrylic paint? I'm about to paint with the clear jewel and sensor on my MG Wing Gundam and would like some tips and hints on how to paint. Stuff like how many coats, how to get an even coat, and how long to dry. Also, I'll be working in my garage and it is 66 degrees outside.

I know that you can actually buy Model Masters Clear Acrylic paints, I used it on the Trygon Sniper Zaku I did a while back, for the monoeye and sniper scope. Turned out really well.

SilverFrameAstray
January 31, 2012, 3:46 AM
I actually have a dual action airbrush. It's older than I am, but it has a new needle.

I just lack an air compressor or paints to use it.

gdx9902
February 17, 2012, 4:43 AM
A cheap way to use an airbrush without a compressor is that you can actually use an inner tube.

The hoses fit perfectly, and you can control the psi ( sort of).

As for paints, food coloring mixed with future floor wax, or even koolaid with future will work too.

jlara96
February 19, 2012, 9:29 PM
How much did you pay for the airbrush?

Zappit
March 4, 2012, 5:41 PM
Quick newbie question - do you tend to paint individual pieces, some assembled parts, (arms, legs, torso) or the entire assembled model? I'm looking to paint with Citadel acylics, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to approach this. I'm looking at painting the limbs, torso, and head separately, then assembling the model. I'm coming from a Warhammer 40K background, so I'm used to painting complete figures (It's a P.I.T.A.) but I'm thinking that might not work out to well with Gunpla.

TwilightKing
March 18, 2012, 10:14 PM
Hey I have a question. I want to paint my AGE-1 Normal model but I need to know what type of paint wont cover up the details so I can still do a panel lining.

WING ZERO
March 18, 2012, 10:54 PM
I use acrylics and they work great i have not tried enamels but i would assume it would be much thicker

WING ZERO
March 18, 2012, 10:55 PM
model masters and tamiya to be exact

WING ZERO
March 18, 2012, 11:00 PM
@zappit i paint each piece individually but i guess if you are hand painting it wouldn't really matter but i air brush my pieces individually and hand paint the smaller details

thwalker13
March 28, 2012, 7:55 AM
I'm considering getting an airbrush. Since I'm wanting to get into painting a few of my kits. Are they expensive? And what all is required to use one? (total noob when it comes to this subject)

gdx9902
March 28, 2012, 10:23 AM
@zappit: One of the things I have observed when jumping from painting miniature figures to Gunpla is the scale. Much more paint is required, with lots more thinning. If you plan to go painting the parts on the runners first, before constructing the Gunpla, I would suggest you use spray cans as it is much easier and much faster than applying by brush. once you start clipping the parts off, you can use the Citadel paints to do touch ups on the nubs, Gundam markers are also good for this as well. But if you have it constructed and just painting them by parts, then I suggest looking into C sectioning, and masking as it may help you.

@TwighlightKing: Any paint can be painted on without covering the panel lines, it just depends on the thinning ratio you use with the particular paint you are using.

@Thwalker13: Glad to see you want to move up to an airbrush for Gunpla. Airbrushes vary in price (between $50 - $500). the cheaper ranged airbrushes are the single action airbrush, while the dual action is in the more expensive range. Since all modellers eventually move up to dual action anyways, I suggest getting a dual action airbrush. Lots of deals can be found on craigslist, etc, for a more affordable airbrush. Before you get one I suggest you read up the differences between single action and dual action airbrushes and how they spray so you have an idea of how they work. There are lots of videos and tutorials about them on youtube. Also when you get your airbrush (pay attention to the diameter of the fluid nozzle) . they usually range from 0.2mm up to 0.8mm ( the max I had every seen). The diameter is important because this number tells you what kind of details you can achieve when you spray. The lower the number, the finer the detail.
I srpay with two different airbrushes:
Iwata HP-CH with a 0.3mm diameter fluid nozzle
Procon boy FWA PS-270 with a 0.2mm diameter fluid nozzle.

After that, the next thing you need is an air compressor. These are a must, as they deliver air at certain pressures to spray paint onto the gunpla. you can get cheaper compressors from the hardware store(prices vary), and quite cheap from craigslist from $50 and up. only drawback is that the more readily available hardware store compressors are very loud. Then there are the hobby air compressors which I have seen from $125 up to $600 (online) (check out www.hobbywave.com and iwata aircompressors). these are quiet and very very suitable for running in small rooms, but expensive. When I started out I got a second hand air compressor(hardware store version) for $40, which was loud, but with a 2 gallon tank, Now I use an Iwata Smartjet Pro. which recently died on me over the weekend :(.
When you are airbrushing, the air pressure is very important, as it will allow you to control the amount of paint you spray on to your kit. This takes lots of time and patience, as you begin to learn about how to airbrush at different pressures and with different paints.

The final thing to consider is the paints. This is where you decide if you want to work with acryllics, enamels or lacquers. This is also where your nozzle diameter becomes a bit of a factor since different paints have different pigment sizes. From my experience, the Vallejo and Citadel and cheapo testors paints have rather large pigments, and I found them to pass poorly thru airbrushes with smaller fluid nozzle sizes (0.4mm and below). Tamiya , Testors model masters series, and Humbrol are finer grained, and pass much better. But the best is the Gunze Mr. Color Series Lacquer paints, where I found their pigments are the finest, but then again it's Lacquer. I have left a couple links in my previous posts to a link to cody's guide to paints but I will post it again:
http://codyscoop.com/ht-paint.html
I suggest you take a look at it as I find it very comprehensive on the types of paints used in airbrushing, also he has an airbrush section detailing the points in using an airbrush:
http://codyscoop.com/ht-airbrush.html
http://codyscoop.com/ht-tool.html <- this is good intro to what you asked, as he has some more detailed info regarding the different airbrushes and compressors, etc.

This is a long winded answer, but I hope I covered everything. Good luck Thwalker13.

thwalker13
March 28, 2012, 10:30 AM
Thank you very much gdx9902. That answered a lot of my questions and I'm sure the rest will be answered in those links you posted. I am on a bit of a budget so I can't spend a lot of money. So I'll have to stick with the rather cheaper stuff for now.

Joe
March 28, 2012, 1:07 PM
Not all good airbrushes are expensive. I got an neo by iwata dual action gravity fed for under $75. So far so good, although I haven't done much real painting, mostly just practicing and figuring out all the little intricacies of various techniques. I plan to use on more than just Gunpla, eventually.

Zaku
March 28, 2012, 1:47 PM
2588

I do spray paint and then do the details. im not lazy im just new at painting models.

thwalker13
March 28, 2012, 4:55 PM
Yeah I'm thinking that I'll use some spray paint to practice with. I'm thinking a custom RX-0 Banshee.

TwilightKing
April 20, 2012, 9:17 PM
Can i just spray paint the runners instead of the individual pieces?

Joe
April 20, 2012, 10:56 PM
You can, but you will need to be careful when removing the pieces and your nub marks will be the color of the original plastic and will need touch ups.

Ikaoru
June 26, 2012, 7:45 PM
If I'm going to use red and gold acrylic marker

2951
For MG Gundam Banshee's psycho frame

2952
For MG Gundam Unicorn's psycho frame


is this the right decision or it'll create some funky effect? Since I can't paint right now

Joe
June 26, 2012, 10:16 PM
Do you know what type of paint is in the markers? It shouldn't be a problem, I've used paint markers for kits before. Just test it out on a bit of scrap runner first.

Ikaoru
June 26, 2012, 10:44 PM
The problem is that I threw away the frames, I could try paint them and erase them using alcohol. I saw the finished banshee and the gold parts are better the oob frames





This is what I'm aiming for. But the freckles in the frames gave me second thoughts :(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/Ryu_Sonic/1340748614255.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/Ryu_Sonic/2556.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v671/Ryu_Sonic/1998.jpg

Joe
June 27, 2012, 1:40 AM
That modeler used a glitter spray of some kind there. you can skip that step

Asterisk
June 27, 2012, 7:41 AM
You can ask the guy that painted that top one. He's a member here. Name's Lupes.

Squee
June 28, 2012, 8:57 PM
Here's his paint list.

Main armor: Phthalo Cyanne Blue mixed with black
Frame/Weapons: Gray FS36801
Psychoframe: Metallic Gold (#9)
Horn/Collar/Mask: Alclad II pale gold

Ikaoru
June 28, 2012, 10:34 PM
Thanks for the info...

Not ready using actual paint just yet lol

Deathscythe!
July 30, 2012, 6:03 PM
I haven't used paint yet, nor did I while I was assembling my D-Scythe.

What are Gundam-Markers good for anyway? is that considered as an equal substitute for using your methods?

Profoxcg
August 1, 2012, 5:42 PM
I have seen several videos on youtube where people just prime and paint their parts right on the parts tree. ?!
But I can't help but to wonder: if you paint the parts of the tree, then you cut them, you have exposed unpainted areas and may even have to sand fill ect.

I don't understand this method and I am wondering if someone can chime in. I think it makes more sense to cut the part off the tree and prime and paint ect..


In regards to the gundam marker, from what I have gathered is that they are just paint markers with a fine tip designed to panel line. Not sure of the paint composition but it would like to know. The same effect can be achieved with a fine brush. Both methods require patience. correct me if I am wrong.

Joe
August 1, 2012, 11:49 PM
You are correct about paint on the trees. This method, without fail, leaves unpainted plastic exposed when the part is cut off. This can be a quick and easy way of doing the majority of the paint work in one go. Touch ups are usually done after some assembly. I personally cut all my parts off and trim them first, but I used to do it the other way and paint the entire tree.

There are a few different types of Gundam Markers. The lining markers are actually ink, not paint, and they have a very very fine tip or you can get them as brush tipped. These are available in black, gray, and brown. I find that Micron and Faber Castell pens work about the same way. There are also paint markers that come in official Gundam colors. These have a chiseled tip and use an acrylic paint. they require a really good shake before each use and then you depress the tip ona surface to get the paint to begin its flow out of the marker. These are great for touch ups if your paint and your markers match up well enough.

Dlinker
August 23, 2012, 6:51 PM
I started painting a couple of my kits not that long ago (probably two or three months ago). I paint by hand since I can't run an airbrush where I live. Tamiya acrylics for the metallic paint (brushed on right from the bottle with no thinning), Vallejo Model Color thinned with water for non-metallics, Gundam Markers for certain details like the scopes and eyes. No primer used, but I do sand the parts with 600-grit sandpaper. I used whatever decent-looking brush I could find at the hobby store near my house. I see people using a size 3 and above brush for HG and MG kits. I was obviously doing it the hard way, painting with a size 1 the entire time. Whether or not my methods work is up to question, haha.

Importman
August 30, 2012, 9:39 AM
For my Gundam models I do the following:
1. Spray on grey Vallejo primer
2. Spray on custom Tamiya base paints
3. Trim parts off sprue, sand down sprue nubs, respray with base paints
4. Spray on highlights, then respray with light layer of base paints again to make more subtle effect
5. Spray on topcoat gloss
6. Apply oil washes for mainly panel lines, tidy up with turps, careful not to apply too much or will start melting parts - I did that before :(
7. Apply decal
8. Spray another layer of semi gloss topcoat
9. Apply weathering pigments
10. Spray on final semi gloss topcoat

And the last part - find a place to display and go yay!

Deathscythe!
September 4, 2012, 7:19 PM
Related :

How am I supposed to paint my 1/144 HG RX-78-2's holes attached to its head? ... No idea how these are called. -> 3320

I've just not figured out/found out/ascertained how to apply my Gundam marker's paint on it. the size of these holes is transcended twice by my marker's tip.
By the way, what's actually the consistency of Gundam Markers? Are these made of acryl?

Dlinker
September 4, 2012, 7:47 PM
Related :

How am I supposed to paint my 1/144 HG RX-78-2's holes attached to its head? ... No idea how these are called. -> 3320

I've just not figured out/found out/ascertained how to apply my Gundam marker's paint on it. the size of these holes is transcended twice by my marker's tip.
By the way, what's actually the consistency of Gundam Markers? Are these made of acryl?

As far as I know, gundam markers are acrylic. For something like that, the best course of action is to paint them with a small paintbrush (probably size 3/0 or 0) if you're able. The alternative might be to use a sharpened toothpick, lay down some paint from the gundam marker on a tray, dip your toothpick in it and apply the paint that way.

If you only want to use an airbrush or spray can, masking might be the only way. Tape up everything else but those holes/vents and spray those areas.

Squee
September 4, 2012, 11:56 PM
Just do a reverse wash. Paint it in acrylic or lacquer for your white. Or if you're not painting it, just use enamel. Just paint with your paint thinned. Once it's cured go over the part w/ a cotton swab/paper towel with lighter fluid on it to wipe up any excess.

http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1401

Same principal.

Suzaku
September 5, 2012, 12:10 AM
I actually do a straight wash for those pesky face areas. Wash the area with black enamel/lighter fluid mix, clean off the little bit of excess with a swab and lighter fluid. The divots are small enough that a regular wash fills and darkens them properly.

Dlinker
September 5, 2012, 12:42 AM
I keep forgetting about reverse washes (or washes in general). That's a very good technique to use and isn't difficult to pull off (unless you're strictly a hand painter, but even then, you have spray cans). That reminds me to try it out the next time I have to work on tiny or complex details.

Suzaku
September 5, 2012, 12:48 AM
Nah, if you're a hand painter you can do a wash as well. You just have to have a paper towel handy to quickly take care of the excess. Or you wash first and then take a detail brush and pick out the raised parts of those divots in the surface color (white in the case of the pic).

Dlinker
September 5, 2012, 12:53 AM
Haha, I got mixed up and was referring to what Squee linked in his post when I said it was difficult for a hand painter to do it. You're right, for something like in the pic, it's pretty doable for a hand painter. That leaves him with several options to try out for his situation. Much learning to be had, which is all in good fun.

Deathscythe!
September 5, 2012, 4:07 AM
I appreciate your advice ! Now I've become able to proceed with assembling my Gundam :3

uncleremuslegend
September 5, 2012, 9:47 AM
all parts of sprues, light sanding with emery boards... from there it gets varied depending on what finish i am looking for... sometimes prime, sometimes wash then base color coat and top coat if happy with the 'final coat of base'... hand painting mixed with airbrush... some might not like my work, but it always leaves me with a smile when i get done and it looks how i wanted it in my mind.... airbrush imo is the best way to get a standard coat, there are many other methods to getting a museum finish, if that's the style you like... as long as YOU are happy with the finish, there is no right or wrong way...

yanos626
October 3, 2012, 5:29 AM
quick question guys what happens if you spray paint (acrylic type) on a part that has already been panel lined with gundam markers?

Will it smudge badly all over the place or will it be covered so I can simply redo the lining?

Deathscythe!
October 3, 2012, 8:14 AM
it'd turn out to be considered not to have your gundam marker layers remain.
Your kit would end up looking weird.
To ensure not ruining your kit, be instructed to remove the applied layers, by using alcohol. Performing that for the first time, I remarked the undesired, attached layers vanishing.

Squee
October 3, 2012, 9:19 AM
If it's JUST panel lined, nothing will happen.

Suzaku
October 3, 2012, 10:14 AM
If you put the paint on thick enough it will cover up the panel lines, but that would be about it.

Kenico
October 4, 2012, 5:06 PM
Question: What color is Dynames?

Suzaku
October 4, 2012, 5:51 PM
In Mr. Color speak, Dynames is these colors (http://www.mech9.com/blog/2011/08/hg-gn-002-gundam-dynames-color-guide-manual/).

Kenico
October 4, 2012, 6:07 PM
ANd in Tamyia talk? Would it be safe to assume that the aforementioned is equivalent to Tamiya Acrylic Green X5?

Grabbags
October 8, 2012, 11:27 AM
So I decided I was going to go for a MG 1/100 Epyon for my first Gundam. http://www.gundammodelkits.com/mg-1100-epyon-gundam-more-preview.html

The unpainted model looks really terrible Imo, and I've seen some wonderfully painted kits so I decided I was going to paint mine. Most of my questions were answered lurking around the forums, but I'm still a bit confused at something.

Just taking the red plastic on the wings for example, I wanted to spray paint the entire model, and so I found a nice red metallic paint I think would look nice on the model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSNY-100-Acrylic-Metallic-Aerosol-Spray-Paint-Montana-Red-2519-11oz-can-/110867339032?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19d0355718
It says it is pure acrylic which is bad because its supposedly the weakest? And if I wanted to apply panel lining on top of that how would I go about doing so?

Deathscythe!
October 8, 2012, 12:15 PM
So I decided I was going to go for a MG 1/100 Epyon for my first Gundam. http://www.gundammodelkits.com/mg-1100-epyon-gundam-more-preview.html

The unpainted model looks really terrible Imo, and I've seen some wonderfully painted kits so I decided I was going to paint mine. Most of my questions were answered lurking around the forums, but I'm still a bit confused at something.

Just taking the red plastic on the wings for example, I wanted to spray paint the entire model, and so I found a nice red metallic paint I think would look nice on the model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSNY-100-Acrylic-Metallic-Aerosol-Spray-Paint-Montana-Red-2519-11oz-can-/110867339032?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19d0355718
It says it is pure acrylic which is bad because its supposedly the weakest? And if I wanted to apply panel lining on top of that how would I go about doing so?

It wasn't very shrewd of you to purchasse a 1/100 MG as your first kit.

ratfacedudeguy
October 8, 2012, 12:40 PM
So I decided I was going to go for a MG 1/100 Epyon for my first Gundam. http://www.gundammodelkits.com/mg-1100-epyon-gundam-more-preview.html

The unpainted model looks really terrible Imo, and I've seen some wonderfully painted kits so I decided I was going to paint mine. Most of my questions were answered lurking around the forums, but I'm still a bit confused at something.

Just taking the red plastic on the wings for example, I wanted to spray paint the entire model, and so I found a nice red metallic paint I think would look nice on the model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSNY-100-Acrylic-Metallic-Aerosol-Spray-Paint-Montana-Red-2519-11oz-can-/110867339032?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19d0355718
It says it is pure acrylic which is bad because its supposedly the weakest? And if I wanted to apply panel lining on top of that how would I go about doing so?

My first word of advice would be to take your time and don't expect perfection on your first try. With that being said, it's not necessarily bad to use acrylic paints as your paint of choice. To help the paint adhere to the plastic, a base coat of primer would be advised. Since acrylic paints are water based, you should be able to panel line using an enamel wash if you choose to go the wash route. I'd advise using a relatively weak solvent such as odorless mineral spirits to further mitigate the risk of breaking down the enamel. Other people have also reported success using lighter fluid as the solvent, but I haven't experienced any success using it with Testors enamels. If a wash seems like too much effort, you can use a panel lining Gundam Marker, or a .005 Micron pen. Furthermore, I would advise using an acrylic topcoat after panel lining, namely Pledge Floor Polish with Future Shine, which you can find at most grocery stores. Having a topcoat will help further preserve the red acrylic. Finally, don't be afraid to ask for more help when (yes, when) things don't go as planned. Take your time, and enjoy your gunpla experience!

Grabbags
October 8, 2012, 12:54 PM
I haven't purchased it yet.

@ratfacedudeguy I'll be sure to post pictures and update once I get it. Thanks for the help.

Edit: Do the rub-on decals have any trouble applying on certain paints? I was planning to using the red I linked above, Ace Premium Enamel Black Flat, some type of shiny gold paint, and chrome spray for the inner skeleton. I was watching a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaOsH52tD0w&feature=my_liked_videos&list=LLuEA44W31gZacswMguezQsw

His came out pretty nice, only I would make the inner skeleton chrome and the red more metallic. Any thoughts?

Suzaku
October 8, 2012, 1:08 PM
And really, an MG isn't a bad choice for a first kit. The part separation means it requires less masking, making it easier to paint and assemble. Plus, most of the parts are bigger than their 1/144 kin :P

ratfacedudeguy
October 8, 2012, 1:43 PM
And really, an MG isn't a bad choice for a first kit. The part separation means it requires less masking, making it easier to paint and assemble. Plus, most of the parts are bigger than their 1/144 kin :P

Very true. That's honestly two main reasons why I prefer larger scale kits. Plus I feel like MGs and PGs have less of a toy-like feel when completed. And really, the larger scale kits aren't inherently more complex than smaller ones from a construction standpoint -- the larger ones just take more time. Lots more time lol.

Deathscythe!
October 8, 2012, 2:23 PM
I hadn't developed or attained any feeling enabling me to assemble kits than I do now. Verily, larger kits might turn out better, but evaluating my skill development.

Kenico
October 18, 2012, 11:39 PM
Got a question about a product...http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/div/div3020.htm...is this any good?

Deathscythe!
October 22, 2012, 9:24 AM
Does anybody have tips on how to paint with a brush ?

Joe
October 22, 2012, 1:39 PM
Make sure your paint is thinned pretty well and do 2 or 3 light coats. If you can still see the plastic under the first coat, you're doing it right. For hand brushing I would suggest enamel paints because they take longer to dry. As they dry the paint will level out so you don't see as many brush strokes.

Deathscythe!
October 22, 2012, 3:00 PM
Make sure your paint is thinned pretty well and do 2 or 3 light coats. If you can still see the plastic under the first coat, you're doing it right. For hand brushing I would suggest enamel paints because they take longer to dry. As they dry the paint will level out so you don't see as many brush strokes.

Sounds kind of professional, now. I would like to bid you to explain it in a manner for dummies to understand. ( I don't comprehend anything)

Assuming I've purchased some tamiya color reduced in price, what is my next step to do?

Joe
October 22, 2012, 4:42 PM
Is your Tamiya acrylic or enamel? I know they sell both and acrylic is there more popular type of paint. Either way you will want to get an appropriate thinner for that paint. Once you have your thinner, mix the paint and thinner about 1 to 1 ratio. If you feel it is too thin (like water) add a little bit of paint. You want the paint to be about the consistency of milk. It's a little thicker than water, and sort of clings and runs down the side of it's container. Then you just paint. Brush size will depend on if you are painting details or large open areas/whole parts. When painting, remember multiple thin layers are better than thick layers and to paint in the same direction for each layer.

Here's a video by Kamm:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq8lGgf_SKI&feature=plcp

Deathscythe!
November 28, 2012, 12:04 PM
Here's my shopping list :

Sandpaper with "600 Grid"
Golden marker

Now, I'm wondering whether it's possible to apply copic marker on your gunpla instead of gundam markers.

Jfl0
November 29, 2012, 9:55 AM
I always use 600 grit sand paper for final sanding, it provides a nice finish. I'll use anywhere from 150 to 400 when shaping. As for me- I went with the airbrush in early 2012 and I'm never looking back :D

Dlinker
November 29, 2012, 11:43 AM
The airbrush certainly is a very interesting piece of equipment. I haven't used mine in weeks, but I'm always thinking about it and all of the things I want to try out with it. I still have a soft spot for the good old paint brush, though. Very convenient, quick to prepare, and for me it has a certain sense of unique craftsmanship. Man, thinking about it makes me want to go home and start painting something, haha.

Deathscythe!
November 29, 2012, 1:26 PM
Having considered purchasing Sandpaper, I cared to buy them at my personal hobby shop this evening

Edimasta
February 2, 2013, 5:17 PM
Is your Tamiya acrylic or enamel? I know they sell both and acrylic is there more popular type of paint. Either way you will want to get an appropriate thinner for that paint. Once you have your thinner, mix the paint and thinner about 1 to 1 ratio. If you feel it is too thin (like water) add a little bit of paint. You want the paint to be about the consistency of milk. It's a little thicker than water, and sort of clings and runs down the side of it's container. Then you just paint. Brush size will depend on if you are painting details or large open areas/whole parts. When painting, remember multiple thin layers are better than thick layers and to paint in the same direction for each layer.

Here's a video by Kamm:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq8lGgf_SKI&feature=plcp

This was my inspiration and I also started painting with VALLEJO and a brush on my new HiZack MG :)
I also use the same green for now like in the video :D This is working out pretty good, needs more work but is a lot of fun and reminds me of my old tabletop days where I also used Vallejo or Citadel... will keep you guys udpated in a seperate thread!

Dlinker
February 2, 2013, 9:13 PM
This was my inspiration and I also started painting with VALLEJO and a brush on my new HiZack MG :)
I also use the same green for now like in the video :D This is working out pretty good, needs more work but is a lot of fun and reminds me of my old tabletop days where I also used Vallejo or Citadel... will keep you guys udpated in a seperate thread!

Hey, good to see someone getting inspired by the same video. It's the same with me; I even bought the same brush he mentioned in that video, haha. I don't regret it a single bit. Can't wait to see your work.

Deathscythe!
February 9, 2013, 4:57 PM
4356

I'll be trying out something new in order not to distress my brushes.

Deathscythe!
February 18, 2013, 12:51 PM
Alright, I attempted to apply some color on some plastic tins ... here's the results :

44404441444244434444

zenakus
February 19, 2013, 5:04 AM
Mad props Asterisk, I paint the same way. Are the Games Workshop paints that good? I usually use Testors acrylic paints and was a little curious.

Edimasta
February 19, 2013, 5:40 AM
4356

I'll be trying out something new in order not to distress my brushes.

Haha they have those here in Vienna too at "boesner" company... are they any good?

Deathscythe!
February 19, 2013, 7:14 AM
Yup!
They really are!
They do well and you're certain to fulfil what "finish" you seek.

Bossguy
April 26, 2013, 1:07 PM
Hey guys, what primer do you use? I don't have an airbrush, so a can would be preferred. I'm thinking of doing the reverse wash technique for the sleeve design on some hg kits, (Rozen Zulu, Kshatriya, etc.) and I want to know what brand I should use. I'm lookng for a good acrylic white spray, and a good glossy enamel black spray. Thanks!


*edit*

Can I spray a lacquer gloss coat over the white and then spray the black on? Or should I use an acrylic clear coat and then a last lacquer coat over the finished product? Is lacquer always supposed to be sprayed last? I've heard Testors Dullcote Lacquer yellows. How about the other ones such as gloss, and semi-gloss?

thwalker13
April 26, 2013, 4:38 PM
If you're wanting to do a reverse wash, you should read my tutorial on it in my build thread. It was back when I was working on my HGUC Sinanju. It might clear a few things up for you. I'll post the link to it.

Here it is. Let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.gundamforums.com/showthread.php/6695-thwalker-s-Build-Thread/page51

Bossguy
April 26, 2013, 8:14 PM
Wow, that's awesome. Thanks!

BTW, are lacquer topcoats the sturdiest? Is it okay to put them over acrylic or enamel? Is it okay to put an enamel topcoat over acrylic paint?

thwalker13
April 26, 2013, 8:24 PM
I've been using Model Master's Lacquer dull coat for awhile now. Haven't had any issues with it. As for the most durable, I'd say the enamel is the most durable. I've also had no issues out putting enamel over over paints. Just make sure that everything is fully cured before layering.

Bossguy
April 26, 2013, 8:35 PM
Thanks! I see what you meant when you said Sinanju's trims were easy to paint! I thought you meant handbrush it. I might try this out if the waterslides fail. It's not a good idea to put a lacquer or enamel sealer over waterslides right? I've heard Testor's Dullcote yellows over time. Is this true?


*edit*


Sorry for the newbie question, but if you coat the thing with Future/Pledge and then put on the dullcote, will it have the strength of the Future but the finish of the dullcote? For an example, if you chucked the piece at a wall, (let's pretend the piece didn't break) would it chip off only the dullcote leaving a very ugly looking gloss finish in selective areas?

thwalker13
April 26, 2013, 9:28 PM
In the case of my Sinanju the dull coat can some times come off. It has in a few small areas around the joints. I would recommend putting a good layer of Future over your water slides though. That will really help protect them and seal them in and make them look good. But if you're going the lacquer dull coat route, put a layer of future over everything. Then the dull coat. As for the yellowing. I haven't had anything of mine do that yet.

Dlinker
April 26, 2013, 9:34 PM
Ah, that's the same question I used to ask about clear and flat coats. Provided you let the Future/Pledge gloss coat dry and cure for a few days and you used more than one coat (with a day in between coats), then yes, you'll see that you can scratch off the dull coat and reveal a shiny gloss coat. However, since you're using a lacquer dull coat, there's a chance it will eat through the Future/Pledge gloss coat. To get the strongest coat, go for a lacquer gloss coat and lacquer dull coat.

This leads to the answer for your earlier questions. Lacquer clear coats and dull coats are strongest, enamels are second strongest, and weakest are acrylic. This is going by virtue of their nature; lacquer paints are stronger than enamels and acrylics in that they are resistant to scratching. Enamels are resistant to scratching too. It's okay to apply lacquer or enamel on top of acrylic, provided you let them cure for a while (few days to a week) and you apply the lacquer/enamel with light coats.

Going by own tests, lacquer gloss coats have the same scratch resistance as an acrylic gloss coat. The key difference is that the lacquer took way less time to cure than the acrylic. A day or two for the lacquer compared to a week for the acrylic.

Bossguy
April 27, 2013, 12:34 AM
In the case of my Sinanju the dull coat can some times come off. It has in a few small areas around the joints. I would recommend putting a good layer of Future over your water slides though. That will really help protect them and seal them in and make them look good. But if you're going the lacquer dull coat route, put a layer of future over everything. Then the dull coat. As for the yellowing. I haven't had anything of mine do that yet.

Good tips. Thanks for the major help thwalker!


Ah, that's the same question I used to ask about clear and flat coats. Provided you let the Future/Pledge gloss coat dry and cure for a few days and you used more than one coat (with a day in between coats), then yes, you'll see that you can scratch off the dull coat and reveal a shiny gloss coat. However, since you're using a lacquer dull coat, there's a chance it will eat through the Future/Pledge gloss coat. To get the strongest coat, go for a lacquer gloss coat and lacquer dull coat.

This leads to the answer for your earlier questions. Lacquer clear coats and dull coats are strongest, enamels are second strongest, and weakest are acrylic. This is going by virtue of their nature; lacquer paints are stronger than enamels and acrylics in that they are resistant to scratching. Enamels are resistant to scratching too. It's okay to apply lacquer or enamel on top of acrylic, provided you let them cure for a while (few days to a week) and you apply the lacquer/enamel with light coats.

Going by own tests, lacquer gloss coats have the same scratch resistance as an acrylic gloss coat. The key difference is that the lacquer took way less time to cure than the acrylic. A day or two for the lacquer compared to a week for the acrylic.

I did some more fishing and I found this interesting post: "The Testors Dullcote Lacquer Spray and the Testors Glosscote Lacquer Spray have exactly the same ingredients except for the Silica Gel Pigment (Dulling agent) added to the Dullcote.
So two coats of Dull is basically the same protection.

Which is not that much at all. Lacquer is just a finish - it isn't a sealant. If you want to a layer of sealant around your painted model, you need enamel.

I paint my model and give it one cote of Testor's Lacquer Dull Cote. I then give it a liberal spray of Testor's Enamel Gloss Cote and let that dry at least 48 hours.

I then go back and give it 1-2 coats of Dull Cote again, depending on the size of the model."


He says lacquer isn't that much protection, but I believe you over him. I think I have found my approach. I'm going to put on my paint, brush a coat or two of future, spray a couple coats of lacquer gloss, and then spray a final coat of Testors lacquer Dullcote.



Thanks so much Dlinker and Thwalker! You guys rock! Seriously.

Bossguy
April 29, 2013, 9:27 PM
So, I went to the hobby store today, and the trip was a success.They had much more stock than when I went last time. They had Mr. Super Clear, Testors Enamel, Lacquer, Dullcote, Plastic Cement, Side Cutters, and most importantly: Gunpla. They had an amazing stock of model kits. They had the 3-pack Dom Tri-Stars, Exia Trans-Am, 2 Sinanju OVAs, 2 Sinanju Steins, HGUC Rozen Zulu, MG Wing Gundam (basically every variation of it), MG Sandrock, Rezel A+B Units, and so much more. I would have bought at least one model kit if I wasn't saving up for a new iPad.


Ok, so, there was one employee there who asked me if I had ever used lacquer paints before, an I promptly said no. He said that I shouldn't use Testors lacquer paints, and that he messed up his model with them. He made lacquer paints sound really scary, but I had no choice because the paint had to be lacquer or acrylic, and they had no acrylic spray (I'm doing the reverse-wash technique). I get why he was giving me information like that, because I'm pretty young for a modeler, but he gave me doubts. I might get some acrylic spray later. So, my question for you guys is: What tips do you have on spray paints? ANY tips are welcome. I already know the basics, shake can, don't inhale fumes, where mask and gloves. Even if you don't think it'll be helpful please post it. It can be anything, it could do with clear coats, enamel spray paint, lacquer spray paint, acrylic spray paint. It could be where you let your paint dry, inside or outside. Thanks guys! Remember, ANY tip is useful.

Bossguy
May 5, 2013, 9:54 PM
Just tried spray painting - tested it on a spare runner. It was HARD. First off, the wind kept changing on me. It has been very hot these past weeks, and I was impatient to get started, so foolish me went outside after it cooled down a bit and there was a light breeze, but it kept changing directions. It seemed like wherever I stood, the paint wanted to drift toward me. Second, I had no proper way of holding the plastic but my gloved hands. I think that affected my result. Lastly, I kept spraying too close or too far away. I forgot to do sweeping motions because I was trying to avoid my own paint from priming me. I sprayed too much on the parts. I'll base-coat it tomorrow. Most of the stuff that happened today was my fault, and I hope to get better in the future. Next time I'll pick a breeze-less day. ;)

Wiz33
May 8, 2013, 2:07 PM
Get 4 pack of these to hold your parts:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZYX1GO/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bossguy
May 21, 2013, 11:03 PM
Ok, I am almost halfway done cutting parts off of the sprue and cleaning them for my HGUC Byarlant Custom, and I just realized how much I hate those stickers, and I want to try to paint them. I have heard a lot of praise for Polly Scale acrylics so I think I'll give those a try. Anyone have any tips on how to hand brush paint, specifically acrylics? I think I'll do a base coat of grey and then put the red over it so every vent will have the same color. Should I thin my paints with water? Rubbing alcohol? How many coats sould I do the base coat? 1-2? Thanks in advance!

Dlinker
May 22, 2013, 12:20 AM
I never worked with Polly Scale acrylics before so I can't be much help there. You'll have to do some research on what's the best thinner to use for them because if you use the wrong one, you'll end up with a thick goopy mess.

What I can help you with is point you to a good tutorial on how to handbrush: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq8lGgf_SKI

He's using Vallejo paints, but it should apply to anything that can be thinned with water and is a good overall base to start with.

Squee
May 22, 2013, 1:14 AM
In this thread, handpainting tutorials and explanations have been shown multiple times. Why does no one bother reading anymore?

Dlinker
May 22, 2013, 2:54 AM
Convenience or it just slips the mind.

This forum has a very comprehensive search function that I've relied on dozens of times when I was still lurking that is incredibly useful. I do wonder sometimes if our fellow members search first.

Bossguy
May 22, 2013, 10:24 AM
I'm sorry, I should have searched on this forum. I used the search bar multiple times trying to find what I was looking for but to no avail. This thread slipped my mind. Thanks Dlinker! I already watched that video, I saw it here on this thread a little while back.

Dlinker
May 22, 2013, 10:32 AM
Sometimes we have to find the answers ourselves so I'm not surprised if you didn't find exactly what you were looking for before. That's where experimentation and taking a risk comes in. Personally, it's what keeps the hobby interesting, haha.

Can't wait to see what you do with Polly Scale acrylics, though. I have heard good things about them.

Bossguy
May 22, 2013, 10:41 PM
Thanks! I'm going to go to the hobby store later this week and check if they have Polly Scale acrylics. If they don't I might have to improvise with spray paint.

Dlinker
May 23, 2013, 1:06 AM
Let us know how it goes. Never write off handpainting; costs way less than spray cans, haha.

thwalker13
May 23, 2013, 7:34 AM
I can attest to that. Cans get really expensive.

Bossguy
May 23, 2013, 10:34 AM
Yep, I know. If I do take the spray painting route, how many cans do you think I need of 3oz primer and 3oz paint cans? Also, do any of you know where I can find black primer? I've heard of P3 Black Primer, but I don't know if my hobby store has that. Will any flat lacquer-based paint work, such as Tamiya Flat Black?


And BTW, I searched for all of this before posting. :)


*edit*


Tamiya Color spray cans say 'For Adult Modelers Only.' I'm not an adult yet, or even a teenager.

thwalker13
May 23, 2013, 12:15 PM
I'm pretty sure Tamiya doesn't ask for your ID when you buy their paints. So you should be fine. I would imagine that you could use Flat Black as a primer. Don't really really see why you couldn't. And as for the number of cans, that really depends on how many parts you plan on spraying with it. The purple I used on my Master Gundam has done all the purple parts with just a little left over. You should be able to get by with 1 can per color. Unless the whole kit is 1 color. Then you might need 2. The primer also depends on the number of parts you plan on priming, and the number parts the whole kit contains.

Asterisk
May 23, 2013, 2:39 PM
I'm not an adult yet, or even a teenager.

Wait, what..? o.o

Bossguy
May 23, 2013, 4:03 PM
Haha, Asterisk, I mean I'm not a full fledged teenager yet.


Thanks Thwalker! I only plan on painting the parts that are supposed to be red.

thwalker13
May 23, 2013, 7:12 PM
Then 1 can of each should do more than what you need.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 7:12 PM
Thanks thwalker! I also need to know how to mask those thrusters. I only want to paint the inside, but the circular cone shape of the part makes it hard to mask. Is liquid mask my best bet?

Dlinker
May 25, 2013, 8:57 PM
Tamiya masking tape would be your best bet as it's easier to work with than a liquid mask, especially if you mess up the application.

You're free to try out the liquid mask though. It may work better for you.

Bossguy
May 25, 2013, 9:00 PM
Thanks for the response! I don't have access to tamiya masking tape right now (I should have looked for it while at the hobby store), but I do have some liquid mask. I'll try it out. Thanks!

DrNubs
June 6, 2013, 2:59 PM
Hey all! First post and I've just want to say that there are so many good looking models that people have made on this site and it has inspired me to create my very own as well!

I just got a few questions if someone could help me out real quick.

First one is if I were to use the gundam chrome silver marker GM100 or any other shiny color paint. Would it be alright to flat coat the model afterwards? Or would that make that shine go away? I read somewhere that it's a good idea to apply a top gloss coat before doing anything to the pieces. And after that apply the panel lines and paint such as the chrome silver. After that dries up, using the flat coat to finish off is what I read your supposed to do? Also each time we paint or coat something, I should wait at least 1 week for the paints and coats to cure and dry before applying another paint/coat?

Second question is does anyone know what kind of paint or marker this person used for his RG 1/144 Freedom? Aside from the brown painted parts, I really love the purplish/violet blue rather than the cheap plastic blue that comes as default. I also believe he painted the second part of the wings more of a matte black? And last but not least the light gray color for rest of the body looks insanely nice rather than the pure white.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mTONbr82IVE/T9cxB_J618I/AAAAAAAALrc/m8WYbUXEPnc/s640/6UQuyqRpqikwSAa4Qg3LCg.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F4BN4YUEGbk/T9cxEhUZxII/AAAAAAAALsc/j5LWea5RuF8/s1600/mGSMHVqF.aepvK2EBAa3Tg.jpg

Last question is if you guys know what marker or paint this person has used for the thrusters in the back and bottom of the feet? Is it the gundam mark GM100 Chrome silver which I heard is the same as the TAMIYA 89011 PAINT MARKER X-11 CHROME SILVER. It looks really nice on the gundam and love how it has the reflective effect of the color. Btw, the photo below is a different model from the 2 photos above!

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gCq_dhAcEKg/T1HBOzKafKI/AAAAAAACHJo/d9pZXC7X-Es/s1600/49.jpg

It'll be great if you guys could help me out! I'm about to spend close to $100 mostly on just supplies and the RG1/144 to try and build the first gunpla as best as I can.

I would ask the people who made these gundams but these images were posted on gundam guy blog and the creators don't seem to reply at all.

All images credit towards Gundam Guy Blog and the creators.

Thanks everyone!

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 3:23 PM
Welcome to the boards! First off, I don't think it's a good idea to build a Real Grade as your first Gundam model. They have extremely small and fragile parts. If you have had experience with modeling in the past, then go for it. If you haven't had 10 models under your belt, not a good idea. I haven't even built a RG as of now.

1. Paint first and THEN gloss coat it and do the panel lines. You want the paint to be protected while the marker is coloring the surface, and the gloss helps the ink to flow better. Gundam Markers do not seal well. I have heard of the paint running all over the place, therefore forcing the modeler to strip the paint and start over. You don't need to wait a week in between coats. A day or two should be fine. If you flat coat silver, it will probably turn into a grey-ish color.

2. Are you sure they used a marker for this? Most painters never use Gundam Markers for painting. Your best bet would be to mix your own. And yes, that is a matte black for the wings.

3. I do not know what brand of paint was used. It near impossible to be able to tell what specific color, company, and type of paint it is by just looking at it from a photo, or in person.


Hope this helped! BTW, don't paint ABS plastic. some paints may react to it, causing the part to literally melt. Always test it on a piece of runner first.

DrNubs
June 6, 2013, 3:46 PM
Welcome to the boards! First off, I don't think it's a good idea to build a Real Grade as your first Gundam model. They have extremely small and fragile parts. If you have had experience with modeling in the past, then go for it. If you haven't had 10 models under your belt, not a good idea. I haven't even built a RG as of now.

1. Paint first and THEN gloss coat it and do the panel lines. You want the paint to be protected while the marker is coloring the surface, and the gloss helps the ink to flow better. Gundam Markers do not seal well. I have heard of the paint running all over the place, therefore forcing the modeler to strip the paint and start over. You don't need to wait a week in between coats. A day or two should be fine. If you flat coat silver, it will probably turn into a grey-ish color.

2. Are you sure they used a marker for this? Most painters never use Gundam Markers for painting. Your best bet would be to mix your own. And yes, that is a matte black for the wings.

3. I do not know what brand of paint was used. It near impossible to be able to tell what specific color, company, and type of paint it is by just looking at it from a photo, or in person.


Hope this helped! BTW, don't paint ABS plastic. some paints may react to it, causing the part to literally melt. Always test it on a piece of runner first.

Thanks for the quick help! I've built tank models in the past before but I've never went into depth with them, just assemble leave it lol. I'm guessing for these paints (not the chrome silver parts), in the first 2 photos they air brushed the kit while it was still attached to the runners? I'm really new to the paint stuff so it'll be a bum to spend cash on looking for the those light purple/violet blue and the light gray armor which sucks...

But as you said before, paint then gloss coat it and panel line. If I end up just buying a gundam gm100 chrome silver to touch up the small parts of the wings, thrusters, elbows/knee. It'll be best to use gloss coat after that? After doing so, panel line and add stickers? And at the very end use the flat coat to finish it off or no?

As far as I know people paint, panel line, add stickers and finish it off with the top flat coat (for a kit that doesn't have decals like waterslides and dry applications)

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 4:14 PM
Yes, do the paint work you want to do, and then gloss coat it. Then apply the decals and panel lines of your choice. If you want a shine to the silver, a gloss coat is best. I don't know what effects the flat coat will have on the shine or sparkle of the painted part. Dlinker and Thwalker can help you more on that subject. Gundam markers are expensive to import, and it might be cheaper to buy actual jars of paint. Just keep that in mind. It is okay to just skip the gloss coat before panel lines and decals, but it is BEST to take the long route, and protect the paint work on the piece from the pen nibs and adhesive decals. Be very careful when applying the regular peel-off translucent stickers. You have to get it right the first time, otherwise it is likely that the sticker will peel off the paint with it if you reposition it. The model in the first photo was most likely airbrushed, and they probably cut the parts off of the sprue (or tree whichever you prefer) before painting them. I wouldn't shell out immediately for an airbrush though, it's better if you get used to this hobby before jumping straight in. You don't want to spend a ton of money on supplies and then realize this isn't your cup of tea.

DrNubs
June 6, 2013, 4:42 PM
Thanks again, hopefully I can get in contact with them and get some help :)

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 5:09 PM
Looks like Bossguy did a good portion of the leg-work here so thanks for that, good sir :)

@DrNubs,

Here are my observations regarding the kit you posted:

- Many of the higher-quality painted kits use lacquer paints, usually Gaia Color or Mr. Color brand. Some also use PlamoUK brand. For small details, you can handpaint lacquer just fine. For anything else, it has to be via AB only.
- You can get that Chrome finish for small details using something like Model Masters Enamel Chrome Silver. An even application of it can look as shiny as a mirror.
- A flat/matte coat on something shiny like Chrome will make it dull, almost like a non-metallic color. Not a good thing unless that's the look you're going for.
- Kits like that probably took a long time to finish. You can achieve the same thing, but not without making many mistakes along the way and spending many days on it. Just parts prep alone can take several days depending on how much time you can put in so be prepared.

Bossguy
June 6, 2013, 5:20 PM
Thanks Dlinker for stepping in and helping him out. I wouldn't have been able to answer those questions.

DrNubs
June 6, 2013, 5:21 PM
I wish there was some kind of rep or thank button so I can just spam it for you two haha

Thanks for clearing up the rest Dlinker!

As you said the flat/matte coat would make the chrome dull. Would it be okay for me to apply the chrome on the small detailed area after applying the coat since there is not a lot of area covered to paint the chrome in my mind.

Dlinker
June 6, 2013, 6:45 PM
Anytime, guys :)

For your question, you can do that, but it may be a bumpier finish since a flat/matte coat is very bumpy. Haven't tried it myself though so this is all speculation. Best to just mask those chromed areas before spraying your matte coat.

DrNubs
June 7, 2013, 7:44 PM
I'll probably end up masking the parts that I would like to add the chrome finish to. I've just went out and bought Model Masters Enamel Chrome Silver to test it out. When using these paints, do you just dip your brush and apply to the pieces? Or is there other steps to it?

I've used a random brush I have laying around, and dipped the paint bottle half way in hot water just so I can mix the paint easier. I applied the paint on a plastic straw and a lego piece. Doesn't really give a mirror effect but it does the job as being shiny.

Only thing that is a concern is the proper way of applying these paint. Am I supposed to thin it out with a thinner before use? And I'm guessing the only way to clean the brush is by using a thinner as well?

Bossguy
June 7, 2013, 8:03 PM
For enamel paint, yes. You need thinner to clean the brush. However, for brushing on the details, you don't need thinner. If you do use thinner, use lighter fluid instead. Enamel and lacquer thinner eat away at the plastic, making it brittle and prone to breaking very easily. I've learned that by experience. I use this brand: http://www.amazon.com/Zippo-3165-Lighter-Fluid-12OZ/dp/B000K2U3JG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370649685&sr=8-2&keywords=zippo

If you paint with enamels, lighter fluid comes in handy many times. You can use it for paint cleanup too.

DrNubs
June 8, 2013, 12:03 AM
For enamel paint, yes. You need thinner to clean the brush. However, for brushing on the details, you don't need thinner. If you do use thinner, use lighter fluid instead. Enamel and lacquer thinner eat away at the plastic, making it brittle and prone to breaking very easily. I've learned that by experience. I use this brand: http://www.amazon.com/Zippo-3165-Lighter-Fluid-12OZ/dp/B000K2U3JG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370649685&sr=8-2&keywords=zippo

If you paint with enamels, lighter fluid comes in handy many times. You can use it for paint cleanup too.

Would using a Q-tip damped with the thinner help in erasing unwanted paint? I'm not sure if I should be buying a enamel based thinner or lacquer thinner for both removing excess paint and cleaning the brushes. Or does it not matter what kind of thinner I use?

Dlinker
June 8, 2013, 1:03 AM
Go with something affordable and use mineral spirits as your overall thinner/cleaner. Preferably the odorless kind. You can get a big container of it for the same price as a small amount of hobby enamel thinner.

And yes, a damp Q-Tip can work well for erasing unwanted paint. Use lighter fluid for that, though.

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 1:04 AM
Yes. Use a Q-tip. Do NOT use lacquer thinner with enamels, or vice versa. It will create a mess. Thinner is essential to painting. As I said beofre, lighter fluid is best for enamels. Just squirt it into a mixing tray, or a junk plastic cup.

DrNubs
June 8, 2013, 10:03 AM
Alright, seems like I'm all set on building my first kit :)

Just waiting on the kit now to be ordered through and I can begin haha

Cannot wait!

DrNubs
June 8, 2013, 10:14 PM
Yet again, I have a question...

One thing just came to my mind and it's about spray painting with the usage of alligator painting clips. For sure they are handy but at the same time, small areas of the pieces won't be painted by the spray because of the painting clip being in the way. How do you guys go about this?

I'm assuming you wait for the paint to dry and place the clip on another side of the of piece and repaint? Or do that right after you sprayed the first time? Then again if I were to do that, it'll probably leave little dimples or marks on the piece since the paint has not dried yet.

Also, I've been watching a lot of vegeta8259 videos (he has vast amount of videos with tutorials, reviews, lets build series etc) and just watched his "Lets build real gundam." and I feel like I am going to just buy spray paints instead of investing into airbrushing as it does practically the same thing aside from maybe the paint being more smoothed out with the use of AB (not sure because I never AB'd before)?

Bossguy
June 8, 2013, 10:25 PM
Attach the alligator clip to the part via one of the small tabs used to snap-fit the model together. If the part doesn't have one of those small tabs, use poster tack. tear off a small chunk and stick it onto a bamboo skewer. A warning: spray cans get expensive really quickly. It is a better investment to buy an airbrush instead of the continued use of spray cans.

thwalker13
June 8, 2013, 11:20 PM
Take it from me. I've painted all my kits thus far with cans. And it is expensive. Go with the airbrush. It will save you a ton of money.

DrNubs
June 10, 2013, 2:55 AM
I'm not sure if there is a good place to post this but I can not find any threads that involve color/paint suggestions or how certain paint look like.

For my first kit I'll be spray painting and end up learning AB later down the road. My only concern at this point is finding the blue that I want which is like this on the wings

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W41AGE1l19U/T1HBNEAWIxI/AAAAAAACHJY/TfeAe4xAwRo/s1600/45.jpg

It has that vibrant blue feel to it, not too much lightness to make it like skype icon blue or too much darkness.

Anyways, I was just wondering for any of those who have use blue spray paint on their gundams, what type of color and brand did you use? I just want to see what others have used to paint their parts blue to kind of give me an idea of how it would look on my future builds.

Thanks

Bossguy
June 10, 2013, 10:33 AM
Tamiya Color is THE BEST in terms of spray cans. Here is a test regarding Tamiya blues: http://zerofourgundam.blogspot.com/2012/01/mg-qant-wip-tamiya-base-coats-and-blues.html

DrNubs
June 15, 2013, 2:12 AM
Tamiya Color is THE BEST in terms of spray cans. Here is a test regarding Tamiya blues: http://zerofourgundam.blogspot.com/2012/01/mg-qant-wip-tamiya-base-coats-and-blues.html

Thanks, I'm thinking of picking some up at a local store sometime soon but what do you think about this? It has that titanium silver and goldish tint to it. Any idea how this can be achieved? Maybe coating a light layer of silver spray over a gold metallic paint?

http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnxtopm1.jpg
http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnx00.jpg
http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnx01.jpg

Credits: Keita

Dlinker
June 15, 2013, 2:47 PM
Your pics aren't showing :(

As for the color, Tamiya has a Titanium Gold that may match what you're looking for. Not sure if they have a spray can version, though.

DrNubs
June 15, 2013, 3:29 PM
Your pics aren't showing :(

As for the color, Tamiya has a Titanium Gold that may match what you're looking for. Not sure if they have a spray can version, though.

Weird how my pics are not showing :S seems fine on my screen, here they are just linked.

http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnxtopm1.jpg
http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnx00.jpg
http://mesarionplus.hannnari.com/gallery/gnxm/gnx01.jpg

Dlinker
June 15, 2013, 5:04 PM
Huh, now those links are showing a 404 error. If you can just save them and then upload to your post, that should work better.

DrNubs
June 15, 2013, 5:27 PM
Weird... Here you go :D

536753685369

EvLJEsT
June 15, 2013, 5:43 PM
The Gluing the part together together to rid of seems lines what kind of glue do you use?

Dlinker
June 15, 2013, 10:36 PM
Weird... Here you go :D

536753685369

That's much better :)

Hmmm, not sure what color that is as it's more silver than a Titanium Gold I'm familiar with. Most likely lacquer and most likely applied with an AB and if so, there's a chance it's a custom mix. All speculation so we'll see if someone with more paint knowledge can figure it out.

@EvLJEsT, you might want to start a new thread for it since this one is mostly paint-related. However, to answer your question, you use plastic cement and/or putty to close seams. Popular ones are Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and Tamiya Basic Putty.

Romul
July 28, 2013, 3:59 PM
I have a question :S

Looking at Omega_X_'s Freedom build thread, Im just wondering why he did'nt spray on the plastic (I think they're called trees 3.3) instead he sprayed the gold on each single peice.

Was he trying to save paint, or somthing else?

Edit: On a side note:

http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/crafters-companion-multicolour-spray-and-sparkle-varnish/562305-1000

How is that possible ._.?

Bossguy
July 28, 2013, 5:07 PM
I think he was hiding the nub marks after you cut the part off of the sprue/tree. If he had taken the tree and just sprayed all the parts gold, then he would have a harder time cleaning up the nubs, and the marks would be more visible. Basically, it's just a better looking piece. You could ask him yourself, he would probably give a better idea of why he did that than I can. About that spray, I think it's just varnish with glitter. I don't know if you want to use that on your Gundam kits.

Dlinker
July 28, 2013, 7:21 PM
Bossguy hit it spot on. Painting while on the runners means you'll have to touch them up after removing from the trees. And it's not ideal, because an obvious mark will be left behind even after touch-ups where the paint looks like it got cut off.

There is also a greater chance of having to re-spray if you happen to make mistakes during nub clean-up.

Romul
July 29, 2013, 4:46 AM
:I Would nu gundam look nice with a gold inner frame?

I dont have thoose peg things so I have no choice :I Ill be super careful.

Bossguy
July 29, 2013, 10:04 AM
Thanks Dlinker. Are you only painting the inner frame? Are you assembling the model fully with the outer-armor? This is just personal preference, but I think Nu should have a darker gunmetal frame.

Romul
July 29, 2013, 10:08 AM
Ah okay

thinking about it now, the gold would hurt my eyes 3.3

Deathscythe!
August 12, 2013, 9:59 AM
Slightly related :

What grit (sanding sponge, sand-paper etc.) is required to restore/achieve the effect of out of the box plastic?

Dlinker
August 12, 2013, 10:36 AM
Either sandpaper above 3000-grit or polishing compund. However, I've tried 3000-grit and it turns the plastic slightly flat in appearance so if you want it back to its original glossy look, you might need to polish it.

DesertTiger
August 17, 2013, 8:14 AM
In regards to final appearance, is there any noticeable difference in painting the individual pieces as opposed to painting them as a group like on the tree still or attached to paper. I know will painting them in a group I'd have to hand paint and pen in some minor places but other than that has anyone seen a significant difference in the final quality?

thwalker13
August 17, 2013, 10:29 AM
If you paint the parts while on the plate, then you'll have to do some touch up work when you remove them from it. In addition if you have to sand the nub mark down then you'll have touch up a much larger area. Painting parts individually will be much easier in the long run. At least in my opinion. You can also consolidate a bit and put some pieces together and paint them at the same time. But do it lightly, so you can pull them back apart if you need to.

Deathscythe!
August 17, 2013, 1:53 PM
Either sandpaper above 3000-grit or polishing compund. However, I've tried 3000-grit and it turns the plastic slightly flat in appearance so if you want it back to its original glossy look, you might need to polish it.

5897

This is joe's answer to my question :/

Bossguy
August 17, 2013, 10:24 PM
Hi guys! Can I ask you guys a question for future reference? What should I use for primer with the Testors One Coat Lacquer cans? What Lacquer primer would you guys recommend?

Dlinker
August 18, 2013, 12:04 AM
5897

This is joe's answer to my question :/

The No-Paint Method is viable so Joe's answer is correct. His question is a valid one too; why would you want the plastic to go back to its original glossy OOB look? Once you do any sort of sanding to it, polishing or laying down a coat of clear gloss is the only way to bring it back to that plastic gloss appearance.


Hi guys! Can I ask you guys a question for future reference? What should I use for primer with the Testors One Coat Lacquer cans? What Lacquer primer would you guys recommend?

How about Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer primer? Or even automotive stuff like Duplicolor sandable primer? Those should work just fine for Testors lacquer sprays. Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer are pretty reliable and the Duplicolor stuff is cheap while still being acceptable.


In regards to final appearance, is there any noticeable difference in painting the individual pieces as opposed to painting them as a group like on the tree still or attached to paper. I know will painting them in a group I'd have to hand paint and pen in some minor places but other than that has anyone seen a significant difference in the final quality?

I think there will be a difference, but I can't give you solid proof because I haven't seen anyone's work who has gone with that method. Doing it individually or at least in sections (depending on your desired color scheme) offers the most flexibility with minimal clean-up/touch-up afterwards.

Bossguy
August 18, 2013, 10:44 AM
Thanks Dlinker. I've just heard reports of Tamiya Primer acting up with the Testors.

Dlinker
August 19, 2013, 12:08 AM
Hmm, that's a first for me. If you can afford it and have the time, I think some tests are in order to give yourself some hard proof.

DesertTiger
August 19, 2013, 10:26 PM
The primer I put on some of my pieces is flaking off. Not all of them, but a few. I'm guessing I should sand it down and paint again? Or is there another route? Also how many layers of primer do you guys normally put, just one that covers the majority of the piece?

Bossguy
August 19, 2013, 10:50 PM
What did you use to prime it? If it's Tamiya, you can just use some rubbing alcohol and scrub away at it with a tooth brush. I did that once. It was gone in under five minutes. I usually use one-two coats when priming. Just do it in light coats that cover the whole piece. Be careful not to spray too much, or you'll lose detail on the part.

Dlinker
August 20, 2013, 10:50 AM
The primer I put on some of my pieces is flaking off. Not all of them, but a few. I'm guessing I should sand it down and paint again? Or is there another route? Also how many layers of primer do you guys normally put, just one that covers the majority of the piece?

Yeah, sanding it down and re-spraying is your best option because there is a chance any layer on top will flake off too. I always use one layer of primer (as in spraying it on once and then not spraying again sometime later), but occasionally spray a second lighter coat if there is still too much original color showing underneath.

DesertTiger
August 20, 2013, 3:12 PM
How long do you usually wait between TopCoat layers, if you do layers?

Dlinker
August 20, 2013, 4:58 PM
Depends on the type of top coat. I mostly use acrylic so I give it 24 to 48 hours before adding a second layer on top. It works out well since I still have to do decals and panel line washes after the first layer, which can take a day or two.

If you're using lacquer, a few hours should be enough in between layers. No clue on what the ideal time is for enamel clear coats though.

Jfl0
August 20, 2013, 7:11 PM
How long do you usually wait between TopCoat layers, if you do layers?

The recommended wait time for acrylics is 24 hours. In a bum rush like I'm in- three for lighter colors. four for darker. I do NOT recommend what I am doing xD Enamels take even longer- 48 hours. Usually I let enamels and lacquer coats sit for a week.

Asterisk
August 20, 2013, 7:16 PM
I bought some Vallejo Flat Yellow paint today to replace the stuff I ran out of, and this shizz is wonderous.

Dlinker
August 20, 2013, 9:22 PM
I bought some Vallejo Flat Yellow paint today to replace the stuff I ran out of, and this shizz is wonderous.

Have you tried out their metallics? I'm curious to see how others think about them. I've only tried the Gun Metal and I'm kinda half and half about it. Works well when you mix it with the colors for a custom metallic, though.

Asterisk
August 20, 2013, 11:05 PM
I only have some shades of grey, flat red and flat yellow so far. I'll be sure to check the metallics out once I run out of my current supply (soon).

Dlinker
August 21, 2013, 1:24 AM
It sounds like you can purchase them easily. And I'm envious, because I have to get mine online.

I was going to gripe about how Vallejo doesn't have a wide metallics range (compared to Model Masters or Tamiya), but then I remember you can mix and match them with a color to get a different hue, especially if you use the Metallic Medium.

Asterisk
August 21, 2013, 1:35 AM
Well, it's about a 40 minute drive, so I only get to swing by when I'm already in the area. Case in point, my wife's doctor is down and across the street from the Hobbytown in question, and she had a checkup yesterday.

DesertTiger
August 23, 2013, 12:18 PM
I use the Testors Model Master primer out of the spray can on my pieces, but I feel like I go through it really quick. My can only lasted me about half of my HG Virtue, is this normal? Am I just over spraying?

exia-7
August 23, 2013, 12:34 PM
I haven't started painting yet but from what I've read in the forums is you want to give it nice, even, light coats. That way you don't spray too heavily and use up your paint. But then I could be wrong

Dlinker
August 23, 2013, 1:10 PM
Are you priming the parts individually or in sections? If individually, then you're likely wasting the contents because a good deal of it comes out per spray.

Bossguy
August 23, 2013, 1:53 PM
That is not normal. One can should last you at least one model. You might be spraying too much paint onto the piece. Try lighter coats.

Wiz33
August 23, 2013, 2:34 PM
Yea, do light coats. I put on just enough so you can still kinda see the original color of the piece unless I'm planning on doing a lighter than original color. For those I put on a slightly thicker coat.

Bossguy
September 1, 2013, 7:48 PM
I have a question. Will a water based topcoat make panel line markers run? Will it ruin the panel lining? I searched for this already, but I need your opinions.

thwalker13
September 2, 2013, 5:06 PM
In my experience. I've used enamel based, lacquer based, and Future (acrylic) and all of the weather it be dull or gloss has made my panel line markers run. Pretty much why I don't use it any more.

Bossguy
September 2, 2013, 8:03 PM
Thanks. I guess I'll have to use enamel wash then. It hasn't worked out for me lately.

Wiz33
September 2, 2013, 8:27 PM
I have a question. Will a water based topcoat make panel line markers run? Will it ruin the panel lining? I searched for this already, but I need your opinions.

Gundam marker are acrylic based so when I did my first kit using acrylic paint. The marker begins to dissolve the base paint as I was lining and cleaning up.

Bossguy
September 2, 2013, 9:22 PM
Thanks! I guess a test is in order...

thwalker13
September 3, 2013, 10:24 AM
I have a question. Anyone who has been keeping up with my WiP thread might know that clear coats seem to have become the Bane of my existence here lately. Particularly flat coats. In my search for a flat clear coat to use. I came across something interesting. Tamiya makes X-21 a flattening agent to be mixed in with gloss paints to make them more matte or flat depending on the ratio. Well, some people have posted that mixing X-21 in with Future, will create a custom flat clear coat. Swanny's Complete Guide to Future states that a mix of 3:1, Future:X-21 will result in a "very flat" finish. I have read that some people thin this and some don't.

So my question is, has anyone tried this out before? If so what was your experience with it?

Dlinker
September 3, 2013, 11:00 AM
I've tried it out before and it works out well, although the ratio I used was not really flat enough. It's kinda easy to spray too much also, due to how the flat appearance won't show until the coat is all the way dry and that Future is like water when sprayed from an AB. Needs a good deal of shaking/mixing too.

Knowing that, if I were to use it again (I only use Vallejo Matt Varnish through the AB now for flat coats), I would go with the flattest ratio possible so I can get a proper layer done in one or two sprays and avoid any chances of overspray.

thwalker13
September 3, 2013, 12:08 PM
I might just get both the X-21 and a the Vallejo Matte and test them both. Did you thin the Future/X-21 mixture with Tamiya Acrylic thinner? And do you thin the Vallejo any?

Dlinker
September 3, 2013, 1:41 PM
The Future/Flat Base mix needs no thinning since Future is pretty thin enough as is and adding Flat Base won't thicken it much. You might want to keep a moist q-tip handy, though. I experienced tip-dry with it a few times.

For the Vallejo, I don't thin it all and it allows me to do a few 2-3 second sprays with the AB to flatten. I used to thin it 50/50 and it took more time to get a good flat appearance. I do give the bottle a healthy shake each time I put more in the AB, though.

thwalker13
September 3, 2013, 3:00 PM
Awesome. I'll give both a try. Give myself more options. I'm wanting to get this little P.I.T.A. nailed down before I start work on my contest entry.

outamyhead
September 6, 2013, 5:29 PM
Anyone airbrushed with the Tamiya metalic paints, just used the gold leaf color last night, 1 part thinner to 2 parts paint as per normal, but it seemed to need more paint flow to get going, aibrush worked fine with the regular thinned down paints?

The gold went on okay but the flow is so sudden that it was almost going to over spray at some points, like the flakes were trying to clog it up.

Dlinker
September 6, 2013, 7:02 PM
Some Tamiya metallics are thicker than others. They either need to be thinned more than usual or use a larger needle in your AB. For example, Titanium Silver, Titanium Gold, and Metallic Grey wouldn't spray easily using my HP-CS with its .35mm needle. Same ratio on my Patriot with its .75mm needle and they spray without any issue.

Bossguy
September 10, 2013, 8:21 PM
I have a tip. DO NOT put future on top of Tamiya Spray gold. It got really ugly in some places.

Dlinker
September 10, 2013, 9:54 PM
Got a pic of what happened? I know Tamiya metallics have a habit of looking off when gloss coated, but that may just be with the acrylics.

Bossguy
September 11, 2013, 12:37 AM
Sorry, I painted it over because it looked so bad. Just warning you though. The paint softened, and pooled in certain areas, creating a brown, mush affect.

Dlinker
September 11, 2013, 1:41 AM
That's something new, never heard of it happening. The difficulty with spray cans, I guess.

Bossguy
September 11, 2013, 10:59 AM
Yeah. I ran out of primer as well, so I can't strip the piece. I think it looks terrible, while others think it looks fine. It's driving me insane.

thwalker13
September 11, 2013, 12:08 PM
Is this for a casual build? Or your contest entry?

thwalker13
September 11, 2013, 12:24 PM
You won't have to. The rules state that it can't be pictured. I was just curious. No harm done.

Bossguy
September 11, 2013, 12:28 PM
Oh, few. Thank you. I already deleted my posts though. :D Whoopsies.

thwalker13
September 11, 2013, 12:33 PM
And by the powers of moderators! I command thee posts to reappear!

(holds magic casting pose until Bossguy replies)

Bossguy
September 11, 2013, 1:04 PM
Wow, that's cool. Thanks!

thwalker13
September 11, 2013, 3:15 PM
POOF!

(posts reappear)

Bossguy
September 14, 2013, 6:05 PM
Can you guys decide between these two paints for me? I'm going to be using one of them to paint the white on the fingers of the Red Frame. My picks are: Humbrol Enamel gloss white, or Tamiya Color gloss white.

Wiz33
September 14, 2013, 6:58 PM
bothwould probably work well but the enamel will take much longer to cure. depends on your time schedule I guess.

Bossguy
September 14, 2013, 8:39 PM
My time schedule is pretty flexible.

Dlinker
September 14, 2013, 11:50 PM
Is that Tamiya acrylic gloss white? If so, I would go for the enamel because acrylic white can be very difficult to apply, especially Tamiya acrylic gloss white.

Bossguy
September 15, 2013, 1:14 AM
Ooooo, woopsies. I bought Tamiya Gloss acrylic. The other paint was more suited towards airbrushing so I ordered the white. It's for detail painting. Do you think it'll work out? Any tips?

Dlinker
September 15, 2013, 1:47 PM
It should work out. The white on the fingers count as detail, no? For the enamel, maybe thin it 1:1 and see how it goes, whether it's too thick or doesn't provide enough coverage. If you're going to try out the Tamiya white, you'll need to thin it since it's too thick otherwise. You can try 90% alcohol to thin (1:1 or 1:2 should serve you well), but I've tried it before and it dried way too quickly. Mind you, that was on a somewhat large flat area so maybe it works better on small details.

As always with applying Tamiya acrylics by hand, try to cover as much area in a single stroke as possible.

Bossguy
September 15, 2013, 4:34 PM
Thanks for the help.

Dlinker
September 15, 2013, 6:32 PM
You're welcome, man. Hopefully it leads to good results for you.

thwalker13
September 15, 2013, 7:09 PM
Reading this is making me dread using the Tamiya white that I got for my contest entry. And the Stein.

Bossguy
September 15, 2013, 9:36 PM
Thanks! I'm scared now. Oh well, I'll just give it a go.

Dlinker
September 15, 2013, 10:14 PM
@thwalker13,

It's as straightforward to apply as other Tamiya acrylic paints if spraying from the AB and might actually be even easier when thinned using their lacquer thinner. For example, it was a breeze when I used it for the Valkyrie's red parts. Sprayed on smooth and even with only two coats. It's only when handpainting that it becomes a hassle, but then again, all white paints are a hassle to handpaint.

thwalker13
September 15, 2013, 11:10 PM
Well, that's a little reassuring.

Bossguy
September 20, 2013, 12:09 PM
Hi guys! I just want to ask, since I'm running out of Mr. Hobby Topcoat. Do you think I can spray Testors Lacquer Dullcote over Mr. Hobby Topcoat (water-based)?

thwalker13
September 20, 2013, 12:22 PM
Do you have enough left to perform a small test on a runner or a spoon? I'd do it in really light mist sprays. Don't want to fully coat it and it eat the Mr. Hobby right off.

Dlinker
September 20, 2013, 1:14 PM
Theoretically, you should be able to. Follow what thwalker13 said about spraying light mists, then give it a few minutes in between coats to slowly build up the layer.

Bossguy
September 20, 2013, 4:18 PM
Thanks. I'll just buy more of the Mr. Hobby Topcoat, just because this is for a contest. I'll try that in the future!

Bossguy
September 24, 2013, 6:12 PM
Hey guys! What humidity would you recommend flat-coating your models (as in ?% and below)?

Dlinker
September 24, 2013, 6:40 PM
Probably 60% or below, though I've never really paid attention to it. That's going off of your typical sunny/warm weather in the East Bay, though.. Right now in my house would be a good time and it's at 54% humidity.

Bossguy
September 24, 2013, 6:47 PM
Thanks. And here I was, thinking that 40% was too high.

Dlinker
September 24, 2013, 9:15 PM
It may depend on the brand of flat coat too. I've only used Mr. Hobby acrylic (the blue spray cans) and Vallejo (via AB) and those always worked fine in humidity under 60%.

Bossguy
September 25, 2013, 12:04 AM
Thanks. I may be able to spray tomorrow then...

Bossguy
September 26, 2013, 2:09 PM
I performed a test on an ABS part to see if it would actually melt if I painted it with Tamiya synthetic lacquers. So far it has not, though the paint is really ugly because I didn't use primer, and without it paint does not stick well on ABS.

Dlinker
September 26, 2013, 3:25 PM
Yeah, it's usually recommended to spray primer on ABS or else nothing will stick to it.

Regarding the damage, I think it's more like it will make the plastic brittle rather than melting or warping it. I hear that over time, ABS painted over with a lacquer without primer will crumble and crack.

Bossguy
September 26, 2013, 4:26 PM
First phase complete. Commencing second phase. Haha, I'll drop it on the floor, or throw it around a bit to see if it's brittle. Thanks for the info!